Kantha
Kantha is a centuries-old quilted embroidery that originated in Bangladesh (earlier known as
East Bengal), and involves using old or discarded clothing items like sarees or dhotis. This helps
repurpose worn-out clothes, and ensures that each Kantha embroidered fabric has a rich history.
It has been a consistent source of income for the rural community of women living in West
Bengal for several decades and is mainly practiced in the district of Murshidabad.
The objective behind Kantha embroidery was to utilize old clothes, which the word ‘Kantha’
literally means. Kantha also means ‘throat’, which refers to Lord Shiva’s story of how his neck
turned blue while saving humankind from the contaminated ocean. It earned him the name ‘Nila
Kantha’, meaning blue throat. By virtue of this legend, ancient Kantha quilts had ritualistic
symbols and animals stitched onto them and were often used during childbirth and marriages.
Earlier, Kantha embroidery was done using the infamous running stitch, one of the most
common stitches. Over time, as Kantha began to gain popularity and more intricate patterns
developed, the stitch became known as ‘Nakshi Kantha. While there are no specific designs for
this stitch, the lotus flower, birds, fish, plants, flowers, and other relevant designs are
predominantly used in Nakshi Kantha.
Further, cross-stitch, darning stitch, satin and loop stitches are also used in Kantha embroidery.
Types of Kantha
Arshilata is a narrow rectangle-shaped cover used for mirrors, combs, or toilet accessories.
Motifs include scenes from the Raas of Krishna Leela or Radha-Krishna. Lotuses, zig-zags, and
scrolls are other commonly used motifs.
Bayton is a square-shaped cover for books and other similar items, made using colorful
threads like yellow, blue, green, and red. The primary motif in this Kantha is the lotus flower
with hundred petals, also called ‘Satadala Padma’. The oldest design used is a mandala, which
symbolises the unity of all manifestations of life. Other motifs include trees, foliage, pots,
shells, and kalkas.
Durjani, also known as ‘thalia’, is a square-shaped Kantha made to cover a wallet. It has a
detailed border with a lotus as the central motif. It is sewn together like an envelope with a
tassel or string attached to it.
Lep Kantha is a thick quilt used during the winter to provide warmth. Usually, geometrical
designs are stitched onto it, giving the finished piece a wavy look.
Oar is a rectangle-shaped Kantha quilt mainly used as a pillow cover. It usually has simple
motifs like birds, creepers, trees, and foliages.
Sujani : the most popular type of Kantha called sujani is a large piece of embroidered cloth
used during ceremonies. Due to its size, the expanse of imagination and creativity involved is
also greater than typical in other types of Kantha. However, the one similarity that prevails is
the central motif, which is a lotus. The other designs seen in this Kantha are scenes from the
Ramayana and Mahabharata, along with folk tales, birds, flowers, bees, etc.
