Weaves of India :

A Journey Through the Looms

 Introduction :
The handloom industry in India, with its long tradition of exceptional craftsmanship, plays a
crucial role in preserving the vibrant Indian culture. Indian artisans are globally renowned for their
expertise in hand spinning, weaving, and printing.

Primarily household-based, this industry involves collaborative efforts from family members,
spanning across thousands of towns and villages, with skills being transferred from one generation
to the next. This sector engages a significant number of rural and semi-urban artisans,
predominantly women and economically disadvantaged groups.

Fig 1.1 Crafts of India

Key strengths include the availability of cheap and abundant labor, use of local resources, low
capital investment, unique craftsmanship, and growing international appreciation. Despite these
advantages, the industry contributes only a small proportion to Indian exports in the global
market, highlighting the need for promotional efforts to realize its potential.

Regional Diversity in Handloom Weaves:

One of the most captivating aspects of the Indian handloom industry is its extraordinary regional
diversity. Each state boasts its distinct weaving traditions, patterns, and motifs, making the

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 landscape a vibrant tapestry of colors and designs. From the resplendent Banarasi silk sarees of
Uttar Pradesh to the graceful Kanjeevarams of Tamil Nadu, and the intricate Dhakai Jamdanis of
West Bengal, every weave carries a unique story and cultural significance.

Fig. 1.2: Lepcha, Fig. 1.3: Pochampally Fig. 1.4: Sambalpuri Saree Fig. 1.5: Baluchari
Assam Ikat, Telengana Orissa Saree, West Bengal

The Indian handloom industry stands as a testament to the country’s glorious past and its
commitment to sustainability and cultural preservation. Its legacy of artistry, regional diversity,
and sustainable practices make it an essential part of India’s identity. As we continue to celebrate
and support the handloom sector, we contribute to the livelihood of skilled artisans, foster
environmental consciousness, and keep the rich heritage of Indian handloom alive for generations
to come. Embracing handloom textiles is not just a fashion choice; it is a journey into the heart
of India’s artistic and cultural soul.

Fig. 1.6: Chanderi Saree, Fig 1.7: Paithani Fig. 1.8: Kullu Fig: 1.9 Kanjeevaram
Madhya Pradesh Saree, Maharashtra Shawls, Himachal Saree, Tamil Nadu
Pradesh

National Handloom Day : The handloom sector symbolizes India's rich cultural heritage
and serves as a vital source of livelihood in rural and semi-rural areas. It significantly empowers
women, with over 70% of weavers and allied workers being female. Handloom production is eco-
friendly, requiring minimal capital and power, and allows for innovation to meet changing
fashion trends and customer preferences.

The Swadeshi Movement, launched on August 7, 1905, promoted indigenous industries,

particularly handloom weaving. In recognition of this, the Government of India designated
August 7 as National Handloom Day, first celebrated on August 7, 2015, by Prime Minister
Narendra Modi in Chennai.

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 Fig 1.10: Poster By govt. of India for National Handloom Day

On National Handloom Day, the handloom-weaving community is honored, and the sector's
contribution to socio-economic development is highlighted. The government reaffirms its
commitment to protecting handloom heritage, empowering weavers and workers financially, and
instilling pride in their craftsmanship.

History :
Indian hand-woven fabrics have a history that predates recorded memory. Despite India's ancient
reputation as a major exporter of textiles, few early examples of dyed or printed cottons have
survived due to the country's hot, moist climate and monsoons. In contrast, Egypt's dry climate
has preserved such textiles. The earliest known Indian fabric fragment, dating before the Christian
era and featuring a hansa (swan) design, was discovered near Cairo. Further evidence of India's
ancient textile heritage includes finely woven, madder-dyed cotton fabrics and shuttles found at
Mohenjo-Daro (Indus Valley Civilization) and 18th-century Indian floral prints uncovered in
Central Asia by Sir Aurel Stein.

Indian textiles were highly regarded historically, with Indian muslin chosen by Egyptians for
mummy wrappings as early as 5000 B.C. Scholars like Herodotus, Megasthenes, and Pliny
praised Indian cloth, noting its unique qualities and luxurious embellishments. Renowned figures
such as Bernier, Tavernier, Voltaire, and Daniel Defoe also lauded Indian handlooms.

Even after the establishment of textile mills in England, Indian fabrics remained so affordable that
they posed a threat to British trade. This led to legislative actions to limit the import of Indian
cloth and increased duties, yet Indian textiles continued to be cheaper. More stringent measures
were enacted, including punishments for those trading or wearing Indian cloth.

Despite the challenges during British rule and the impact of both World Wars, India's handloom
industry saw a revival in the post-independence period, offering renewed hope for the industry and
its weavers.

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 Decline of Handloom :
During British rule, India was transformed into an exporter of raw cotton and inundated with
imported machine-made yarn. British authorities employed violence and coercion to increase yarn
consumption, leading to the loss of livelihoods for spinners and making handloom weavers
dependent on machine yarn. This dependence necessitated yarn dealers and financiers, causing
weavers to lose their independence and work under traders on a contract or wage basis.

Despite these challenges, the Indian handloom sector sustained itself until World War I, when
imported machine-made clothes flooded the market. The advent of powerlooms in the 1920s and
the consolidation of mills further exacerbated the decline of handloom. In response, Mahatma
Gandhi launched the Swadeshi Movement, promoting hand spinning and the use of Khadi, which
means hand-spun and hand-woven fabric. This movement led to the closure of Manchester mills
and became a pivotal point in the Indian independence movement, with people burning imported
clothes and choosing Khadi.

Post-independence, textile and spinning mills continued to operate in India, and many weaving
styles using machine-spun yarn are still referred to as handloom. Fabrics made from hand-spun
yarn are called Khadi. Although handloom and Khadi were initially protected from unfair
competition, the sector faced significant challenges from the mid-1980s onward. Post-1990s
liberalization led to competition from cheap imports and design imitations from powerlooms, while
government funding and policy support declined. The cost of natural fiber yarn rose significantly,
making it unaffordable for the common people, while the wages of handloom weavers remained
stagnant. Consequently, many weavers have abandoned their craft for unskilled labor, leading to
widespread poverty among them.

Revival of Handloom Weaving :

While the handloom industry faced challenges during the colonial era and later with the advent of
mechanized textiles, it has experienced a remarkable resurgence in recent years. Governments,
NGOs, and private enterprises have undertaken initiatives to support and promote handloom
weavers, providing them with access to modern design techniques, financial aid, and marketing
opportunities. This revival has not only preserved a vital aspect of India’s cultural heritage but also
empowered weavers economically.

A Sustainable Choice :
In recent years, there has been a growing movement to revive handlooms as a sustainable and eco-
friendly alternative to mass-produced textiles. The handloom industry not only preserves traditional
techniques but also promotes fair trade and ethical practices. By choosing handloom products,
consumers contribute to the preservation of craft and support the livelihoods of local artisans.

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