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 Introduction
For this contest, trees are mainly of two types: hardwood and softwood. Hardwood trees usually
grow slower and their wood is typically denser, stronger, and more durable. Oak, maple, walnut
are hardwood tress while pine, fir, cedar are softwood trees.
Natural wood is the wood present in environment. Engineered wood is man-made wood created
by binding wood fibers, veneers with adhesives to form solid board. When wood is cut and
processed into usable sizes, it is called as lumber. Lumber is very thick as compared to a
veneer/strand (All timber = wood, but all wood is not timber until it has been cut and processed).
Note: Timber and lumber are same in India/UK but in North America timber means raw wood while lumber means
wood which has been sawn/cut.

When wooden logs are inserted into rotary peeling machine, the log rotates and peels of one
large slice of wood known as veneer. Instead, if the logs are inserted into strander machine, they
are cut into small pieces known as wooden strands. Lumber boards, on the other hand, are very
thick boards usually 2 inch/50mm made by joining timber.
When a building is being constructed, the structural frame—made of vertical studs (in walls),
horizontal joists (in floors), and rafters (in roofs)—needs a covering surface to add strength,
stability, and protection.
A rigid board is fixed to this framing to create that continuous surface. This board is called
sheathing. Sheathing is typically made from engineered wood products like plywood or OSB. It
may be installed on:
 Walls → to resist wind and lateral loads
 Floors → to support live loads
 Roofs → to support roofing materials and keep rafters braced

1.

Plywood:
Naturally available wood is cut in the form of wooden logs. The very
thin slice that has been cut/chopped off is called as a veneer. When
multiple veneers are combined such that the grain direction on each
one of them runs perpendicular, such an arrangement is called
plywood.
Direction of grain on the wooden surface is very important as it
balances the forces, prevents warping and ultimately leads to increase in strength.

Core Pro:
✅ Balanced strength in both directions (thanks to alternating veneers)
✅ Relatively smooth surface — can be painted or finished

Core Con:
❌ Costlier than OSB for same thickness
❌ Can delaminate if exposed to long-term moisture (unless exterior grade)

Use Case: Wall/Roof/Floor sheathing, subfloors furniture, cabinets, formwork

2. Oriented Standard Board (OSB):

Instead of using veneers, OSB uses wooden strands. Top and
bottom layer is a large slice of wood and the layer in
between contains a lot of wooden strands laid in multiple
directions. When they are heated and pressed, OSB is
formed. No grain direction is kept in mind while making
OSBs.
Core Pro:
✅ Very cost-effective
✅ Strong and stiff for sheathing & subfloor when dry
✅ Wider availability in large panels (8×9, 8×10)
Core Con:
❌ Poor moisture resistance — swells and breaks down if not sealed
❌ Rough surface, not decorative
❌ Sags slightly more than plywood under long spans

Use Case: Wall sheathing, roof decking, subflooring (especially to save cost)
3. Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL):
Just like plywood, LVL also starts with thin slices of
wood called veneers. But here’s the key difference: in
LVL, all the veneers are arranged in the same grain
direction—they are not crossed like plywood.
These aligned veneers are then glued together under
pressure to make a thick, strong beam-like board.
Since all the fibers go in one direction, LVL becomes
extremely strong along that direction, making it ideal
for load-bearing structures, like headers and beams.
Think of LVL as a super-strong version of solid wood, made to carry heavy loads over long spans
without warping.
Note: Multiple veneer layers are glued together and hence they are called ‘laminate’

Core Pro:
✅ Very high strength along its length
✅ Uniform, defect-free alternative to sawn lumber
✅ Great for long spans
Core Con:
❌ Not strong in perpendicular direction (unlike CLT or plywood)
❌ More expensive than regular lumber
❌ Limited to beam/column shapes — not panels
Use Case:
Used in headers, beams, rim boards, lintels, and floor joists — especially in engineered framing
or long unsupported spans

4. Cross Laminated Timber (CLT):

When multiple timber boards are joined together, CLT is
formed. Just like we did in plywood, timber boards are
arranged such that their grain directions are
perpendicular. The only major difference between CLT
and plywood is that in CLT, timber boards are used
instead of veneers.

 Core Pro:
✅ Massive structural strength (multi-directional)
 ✅ Replaces concrete/slab in mid-rise buildings
✅ pre-fabricated panels reduce construction time
✅ Fire-resilient due to charring behavior
 Core Con:
❌ Very heavy — needs cranes for installation
❌ High material & transport cost
❌ Moisture trapping risk if detailing is poor
 Use Case:
🏢 Ideal for mass timber buildings, modular construction, floor & wall panels in
commercial/educational/institutional mid-rises (5–12 stories)
5. Cement Board
Sheet made of cement and reinforcing fibres (usually
fibreglass), formed into flat panels. It is essentially concrete
but in panel form – lightweight, but dense/strong.
Fiberglass is a material made by of glass. Glass is melted –
Spun into threads – Threads are mixed with other materials
✅ Core Pros:
 100% moisture-proof
 Fireproof
 Won’t warp, rot, or mold
 Excellent for wet areas (like bathrooms, kitchens)
❌ Core Cons:
 Heavy
 Brittle (can crack if mishandled)
 Harder to cut (needs carbide blade)
📌 Use Case:
 As a backer board behind tile in wet areas
 Underlayment in bathrooms/kitchens (Underlayment means material underneath finished
surface)
 Exterior siding (in select grades)

To this cement board, sometimes extra natural/plant-based fibers are added throughout the
cement making the board less brittle & more impact resistance. It is called as fiber cement board.
These boards, unlike wood, don’t easily mold (bacterial attack), rot (decay due to moisture
exposure) or warp (twist/bend).
6. Fiberboard
Wood fibers are tiny, microscopic thread-like cells that make
up the wood structure. When these fibers are aligned in one
direction, they are called grains. Using either mechanical
(burning) or chemical treatment, these fibers are separated
from wood, then mixed with resins/adhesives, pressed under
heat to bond them back and form a solid panel.
But, why are wood fibers extracted and then again used to
form a wood product? The reason is that natural wood has knots and grains. Breaking them
down gives a smoother surface. Note, wood waste that is left over can be used to extract
fibers in this method.
Note: The main purpose of a fiberboard is to obtain a smooth, consistent surface using regular/waste product. However,
it doesn’t mean that other materials like plywood contain knots. As fiber extraction is not done in plywood
manufacturing, some other precautions/steps are taken to ensure that less knots are present in the finished product.

Fiberboards are made of different densities. Low, medium and high – LDF, MDF, HDF. Low one
is the weakest followed by MDF and HDF. HDF is ultra smooth and dense and needs a sharper
blade to cut.
LDF: Acoustic Panel, Drawer backs (Google acoustic panels)
MDF: Cabinets
HDF: Laminate flooring, high wear furniture
🔹Pros of Fiberboard (all types): smooth, consistent, easy to work with
🔹Cons: Not water resistant, heavy, not/less structural
🔹 Use: furniture, flooring cores, acoustic panels
7. Particleboard/Chipboard
Particleboards are mostly made by using wood particles namely
saw dust, wood shavings, and chips. These 3 are mixed with resin
glue and then pressed in a flat sheet. Most of the material used
here is waste from industries, factories and furniture shops.
Pros: Affordable, flat and uniform
Cons: Low strength, poor moisture resistance, short lifespan,
brittle
Purpose: Flat pack furniture (ready to assemble), closet/wardrobe interiors
8. Solid Hardwood
As explained before, hardwood means the wood
obtained from trees like oak and walnut. These
trees have denser/more durable wood.
Once a tree trunk has been cut, it has to go
through various stages before being used for
flooring and/or other purposes.
After cutting the tree, it is fed into a wood sawmill.
It cuts huge logs into rough rectangular slabs
which are then further cut into lumber boards.
These lumber board surfaces are still rough and contain knots. It is refined by second step:
Planning. In this step, planners are used where knots are removed and smooth surface is
obtained. Once this is done, based on surface smoothness, thickness and many features,
grading is done i.e. finished product is categorized based on the quality. At last, sanding is
done where again wood surface is rubbed by materials like sandpaper to finish off final prep.
Sawing – Planning – Grading – Sanding – Wood obtained = Solid Hardwood
Note: Forming veneers/strands require different machines like rotary lathe and stranders.

Pros: High strength, durable, can be refinished/reworked later on, premium feel/touch
Cons: Moisture sensitive, cost, weight, maintenance (to protect against wear and tear)
Use: High-end commercial/residential flooring and interior works

Note: For locations like basement flooring, which are very prone to moisture, solid hardwood
must not be used as it swells/contracts when it comes/goes in contact with moisture. Also, it is
difficult to stick solid engg. wood to a concrete slab.

9. Engineered Hardwood
Unlike solid hardwood, this is not
completely/fully made of hardwood.
Rather, it is made of multiple wood
layers. Generally, the top layer is made of
solid hardwood while the bottom one
consists of Plywood/HDF board. It is
called engineered because different types
of wood are combined/engineered together to mix up their strengths.

Pros: Strength + Real wood feel, faster and easier to install/attach to concrete
 Cons: Not completely water resistant, limited refinishing (top layer is sometimes too thin)
Specific use case:
Use Case: Over concrete slab, basement with low-medium water penetration risk, spaces needing premium
feel and strength both.

10.Laminate
A laminate is a man-made manufactured/engineered
product consisting of different layers. The top layer is
a wear & tear layer designed to protect against
scratch, UV etc. The next layer is the
decorative/printed layer followed by core layer made
of HDF/ply. Finally, backing layer made of melamine
(kind of same as top) is used to prevent warping.
Even though laminate contains many layers, the core layer that bears load and gives strength is
the core layer made of HDF/ply.
Pros: Scratch resistant, cost-effective, easy installation, wide design variety, replaced easily
Cons: Moisture sensitive, low structural strength
Use: Rental apartments (with high turnover – students), kids room (toys scratch resistant), retail
shop floors with high footfall and less budget
[Sumry: Cheap, Easy install, wood like feel, scratch resistant, easy replacement but low strength]

11.Stone Plastic Composite (SPC)

As the name suggests, it is made by mixing stone
(limestone) and plastic. This fundamentally makes the
material extremely strong, durable, water/impact resistant
[true identity of SPC]. It usually contains 4 layers. The top
layer is wear/tear layer, followed by a decorative layer. The
third layer is the SPC core made of calcium carbonate
(limestone dust) + PVC plastic and some
stabilizers/additives. The fourth layer is underlayment made
of IXPE or foam
 ✅ PROS of SPC
PRO Why It Matters
💧 100% Waterproof Safe for kitchens, bathrooms, basements
🧱 Super Rigid & Stable No expansion/contraction with temperature
🪓 Scratch/Impact Resistant Stands up to pets, furniture, high heels
🔇 Quieter to Walk On Feels more cushioned than laminate
🧩 Fast Install (Click Lock) No nails, no glue, DIY-friendly
🔥 Fire & UV Resistant SPC doesn’t fade or catch fire easily

❌ CONS of SPC
CON Why It Matters
🥶 Can Feel Cold & Hard Not as warm as wood under bare feet
💸 Higher Cost than Laminate Slightly more expensive upfront
🪜 Needs Level Subfloor Core is rigid, so uneven floors show issues
🎨 Not Real Wood Image layer, not refinishable

Use Case: Bath/Laundry room with high water exposure, pet owners, retail with traffic

12.Luxury Vinyl Tile/Plank (LVT/LVP)

Just as we covered earlier, this is also made of 4 layers/ First is the wear and tear, followed by
decorative layer, core and backing layer. Core (3rd) layer is made of flexible PVC plastic, while 4th
one consists of vinyl or foam to add stability and sometimes sound dampening. LVT looks like
ceramic tiles while LVP looks like wooden planks.
Pros: 100% waterproof, rigid, durable, installation friendly, soft and quiet
Cons: Softer than SPC/Laminate, warp under extreme heat, not environmentally friendly
Use: Bathroom/ basement room renovation/construction, residential/commercial space with
waterproofing requirement

13.Wood Plastic Composite (WPC)

Wood Plastic Composite (WPC) has four layers similar to LVT/LVP; however, the fundamental
difference lies in the core layer. WPC’s core consists of wood flour (finely ground wood fibers)
mixed with PVC plastic, making it stronger and more rigid than LVT/LVP but less stiff than
SPC. It is also water-resistant, providing good moisture protection. WPC flooring offers better
comfort and sound absorption compared to SPC, though LVP/LVT remains the softest and
quietest underfoot. It comes in tile and wood look just like LVP/LVT.
🧬 Core Identity Snapshot
Rigid or
Material Core Composition Waterproof? Main Strength
Flexible
HDF (High-Density
Scratch resistance
Laminate Fiberboard) = wood Rigid ❌ No
+ budget
pulp
Stone plastic (limestone Waterproof +
SPC Rigid ✅ Yes
+ PVC) impact resistant
Comfort + glue-
LVP/LVT Pure vinyl (PVC) Flexible/Soft ✅ Yes
down flexibility
Wood fiber + plastic Comfort +
WPC Semi-Rigid ✅ Yes
composite waterproof + quiet

⚙️Core Differences — Deep Dive

Feature Laminate SPC LVP/LVT WPC
HDF (wood Limestone + Flexible PVC
🌱 Core Material Wood fiber + PVC
only) PVC vinyl
💧 Water ✅ 100% ✅ 100% ✅ 100%
❌ No
Resistance Waterproof Waterproof Waterproof
Less rigid than
Most rigid Flexible
🧱 Rigidity Rigid (can chip) SPC, more than
(doesn’t bend) (bends easily)
LVP
Loud/hollow Quieter (w/ Softest & Naturally softer +
🔇 Acoustic Feel
unless underlay IXPE underlay) quietest quieter
🪵 Natural Yes (wood No (fully No (fully Part wood, part
Material fibers) synthetic) synthetic) synthetic
Click-lock Click-lock Click-lock or
Installation Click-lock floating
floating floating glue-down
✅ Good — better
💪 Impact/Dent ⚠️Medium — ❌ Lower —
✅ Excellent than LVP, less
Resistance can chip can dent
than SPC
♻️Refinishable? ❌ No ❌ No ❌ No ❌ No

Use Case:
Laminate: Dry areas, bedroom upstairs, kids room etc.
SPC: High impact resistant and water proof rooms
 WPC: Apartment, condos, gyms (Comfort + durability)
LVP/LVT: Budget bathrooms (More Comfort and design options)

Note: WPC and LVP/LVT differ mainly in core composition and resulting comfort/rigidity. Both come as planks
(wood look) and tiles (stone look), but WPC offers a firmer core with some wood content, while LVP/LVT is fully
flexible vinyl. Their use overlaps a lot, but choice depends on balancing comfort, durability, and cost.

14.Carpet
 Soft textile flooring, usually rolls or tiles
 Common in residential and offices
 Varies in pile height, density, and backing
 🛠 Equipment: Carpet stretchers, seam rollers, carpet pullers (for removal)

15.Tiles: Ceramic / Porcelain

 Hard, durable, water-resistant surface
 Porcelain = denser and more water-resistant than ceramic
 Used in bathrooms, kitchens, commercial spaces
 🛠 Equipment: Tile saws, tile removers, floor scrapers

16.Polished Concrete
 Concrete floor that’s mechanically ground and
polished
 Durable, reflective, low-maintenance
 Common in warehouses, showrooms, modern retail
 🛠 Equipment: Concrete grinders, burnishers,
densifiers

17. Rubber Flooring

 Flexible, slip-resistant, impact-absorbing surface
 Used in gyms, hospitals, commercial kitchens
 Comes in rolls or tiles
 🛠 Equipment: Utility knives, adhesive spreaders,
rollers (for install)

18.Vinyl Composition Tile (VCT)

These tiles are made by mixing vinyl resins (PVC) with limestone filler like limestone (calcium
carbonate). At the chemical level it is very similar to SPC, but they are fundamentally very
different. VCT is homogeneous tile with no layers unlike SPC. VTC is installed by glued down
method and needs waxing to shine. It is an old school commercial tile.

Pros: Strong, durable, cheap

Cons: regular maintenance (waxing), not waterproof
Use: Hospital, school hallways [Where cost + durability are more imp than looks/comfort]

Ceramic Tile
 Made from clay and other natural materials, fired at relatively lower temperatures
 Porous and less dense than porcelain
 Usually glazed for water resistance
 Common in walls, bathrooms, kitchens
 Generally, less expensive than porcelain

Porcelain Tile
 Also made from clay but fired at higher temperatures
 Denser, less porous, stronger, and more water-resistant than ceramic
 Often used in high-traffic floors, outdoor areas, commercial spaces
 Usually more expensive than ceramic

Porcelain tiles are much stronger, water resistant, easy to install tiles but are brittle as
compared to VCT.

VCT (Vinyl Composition

Feature Ceramic Tile Porcelain Tile
Tile)

Clay, fired at
Denser clay, fired at Vinyl resin (PVC) +
Material moderate
higher temperatures limestone filler
temperatures

More porous, less Very low porosity, very Non-porous plastic-

Porosity
dense dense based

Moderate; prone to Very durable, strong, Durable but softer; can

Durability
chipping chip-resistant scratch and dent
 VCT (Vinyl Composition
Feature Ceramic Tile Porcelain Tile
Tile)

Water Good, but less than Excellent, very water Good; needs waxing for
Resistance porcelain resistant protection

Easy to clean; no Easy to clean; no Requires regular waxing

Maintenance
waxing waxing and buffing

Glued or mortar + Glued or mortar +

Installation Glued tiles; no grout
grout grout

Wide variety, glazed Usually smoother, finer Uniform color or

Appearance
or unglazed finish, often glazed printed patterns

Flexibility Rigid and brittle Rigid and brittle Slightly flexible

Cost Lower cost Higher cost Lower cost

Heavy traffic floors, Commercial interiors

Typical Use Residential walls and
outdoor areas, like schools, hospitals,
Cases floors, bathrooms
commercial retail

Summary:
 Ceramic: Great for moderate use, decorative, less durable than porcelain.
 Porcelain: Tougher, less porous, suited for heavy wear and wet conditions.
 VCT: Synthetic, plastic tile mainly for commercial use, requires maintenance.

19.Epoxy Coatings/Resin Floors

In industrial buildings, concrete surface needs to be protected from the excess wear and tear
due to equipment and machineries. Hence, a liquid layer is applied on concrete that cures into
a hard plastic-like surface on top.
Pros: Resists wear and tear, chemical resistant,
Cons: more curing time (2-3 days), requires perfect floor prep, not flexible (can crack if
contract expands/shrinks due to temperature)
Use case: Industrial warehouses
 Note: During temperature changes, concrete can either swell/shrink, resulting to cracks. These
cracks can occur even if epoxy is not used. Using epoxy is neither going to make situation
worse nor is it going to improve it. When concrete moves and cracks, slowly epoxy also moves
and as a result epoxy starts cracking (gradually). Hence, a flexible membrane like the one
underneath is more preferable.

20. Sealed Concrete/Urethane Floors

Concrete with a protective sealer like acrylic or urethane.
✅ Core Pros
 Protects concrete from oil, stains, moisture, and dust
 💸 Inexpensive compared to epoxy
 🧼 Very low maintenance
 🧽 Some sealers make concrete easier to clean
 🛞 Urethane adds a bit of flexibility and abrasion resistance

❌ Core Cons
 🪞 Not decorative – keeps raw concrete look (unless tinted)
 🔁 May need reapplication every few years
 ❌ Not as tough as epoxy or SPC
 ⚠️Will not hide cracks or defects in slab

Specific Use Cases

 Warehouses, garages, mechanical rooms, industrial basements
 Also used under epoxy as a primer or base sealer
 Anywhere you want to preserve concrete but not fully cover it

🎯 Quick Summary Table

Feature Sealed Concrete Epoxy Coating (Resin Floor)

Cost 💸 Cheaper 💰 More expensive

Durability ⚪ Moderate 🟢 High (impact, chemicals, abrasion)

Thickness Thin film Thick layer

Flexibility Somewhat flexible (urethane) Rigid and brittle

Installation Time Fast Slower (prep + curing)

 Feature Sealed Concrete Epoxy Coating (Resin Floor)

Best For Basic protection Heavy-duty, industrial use

 Flooring Installation
Methods:
1. 🔨 Nail-Down / Staple-Down
 Used For: Solid hardwood, some engineered hardwood
 Installed Directly On: Plywood/OSB subfloor (wood only)
 How: Flooring is nailed or stapled through the tongue into the subfloor
✅ Pros: Very secure, long-lasting
⚠️Cons: Time-consuming, not suitable over concrete or with radiant heating

2. 🪵 Floating (Click-Lock)
 Used For: Laminate, LVP/LVT, SPC, WPC, some engineered hardwood
 Installed Over: Wood or concrete (with underlayment)
 How: Planks click together and “float” over underlayment — no glue or nails
✅ Pros: DIY-friendly, fast, flexible over different surfaces
⚠️Cons: Needs flat subfloor, can sound hollow if no pad

3. 🧴 Glue-Down
 Used For: Vinyl tiles/sheets, some LVP, engineered wood, VCT
 Installed Over: Concrete or plywood
 How: Adhesive is troweled onto subfloor, and flooring is pressed in
✅ Pros: Very stable, great for heavy traffic
⚠️Cons: Messy, hard to remove/repair
A. Wood Framed Floors
Joists – Sheathing – Surface Prep - Underlayment (Optional; With/Without Vapour Barrier)
– Finished Flooring – Baseboards and Final Touch-up
When the construction is new, joists and subfloor sheathing (typically plywood or OSB) are
installed first. Once installed, they are inspected for flatness, levelness, and moisture
levels to ensure the surface is suitable for finished flooring.
If needed, subfloor seams are sanded or filled, and loose nails/squeaks are corrected.
Next, the appropriate underlayment is laid — usually foam, cork, or cement board,
depending on the flooring type and moisture conditions.
 Underlayment provides cushioning, sound reduction, and minor leveling.
 In high-moisture areas (e.g. basement or slab-on-grade), a vapor barrier (separate or
integrated) is used to prevent moisture from wicking up into the finished floor.
Once underlayment is in place, chalk lines are snapped to create straight reference lines
for laying flooring. A floor layout ("dry layout") may be done first to plan the pattern and
avoid small edge pieces.
After layout is finalized, the finished flooring (laminate, engineered wood, LVP, tile, etc.) is
installed according to manufacturer instructions using the correct method (click-lock, glue-
down, mortar, etc.).
Finally, baseboards or trim are added back or newly installed to cover expansion gaps and
provide a clean finish.
Note: Sanded means to remove high spots using sander. Filled means to fill low spots using a compound.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cw51ywznQOA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGUes4c1rks
Typical Flooring Used: Eng Hardwood, LVP, Solid Hardwood, Laminate, SPC/WPC

B. Concrete Floors
Soil Compaction – Gravel Base – Vapor Barrier – Concrete Slab – Surface Prep –
Underlayment (Optional) – Finished Flooring
When construction involves a concrete slab, the surface acts as both the structural base and
subfloor. Before any flooring is installed, the concrete must be properly prepared.
First, the slab is inspected for:
 Moisture content (using a moisture meter or calcium chloride test)
 Levelness and flatness (typically should not exceed 3/16" variation over 10 feet)
 Cracks or damage that may need patching or sealing
If needed:
 High spots are ground down using a concrete grinder
 Low spots are filled using a self-leveling compound
 Any dust, debris, grease, or paint is removed for proper bonding
Depending on the flooring type and slab location:
 A vapor barrier (typically 6-mil polyethylene sheet or built-in underlayment) is installed to
protect against moisture rising from the slab — especially for basements or slab-on-grade
conditions
Next, the appropriate underlayment is installed:
 Foam or cork pads for floating floors like laminate or LVP
 Cement board or uncoupling membrane for tile
 Vinyl-backed plywood for sheet vinyl or VCT if surface isn’t smooth enough
Underlayment helps with:
  Cushioning and sound absorption
 Smoothing over minor imperfections
 Moisture protection (if integrated)
Once the slab is ready and underlayment is installed (if required), chalk lines are snapped to
create straight layout guides. A dry layout may also be done to ensure tiles or planks are well-
aligned, avoiding small cuts at edges.
After layout, the finished flooring is installed using the appropriate method:
 Glue-down for vinyl, engineered hardwood, VCT, or tile
 Floating (click-lock) for laminate, SPC, WPC, or LVP
 Mortar set for ceramic/porcelain tiles
Finally, any required baseboards or trim are installed to cover expansion gaps and create a
polished, finished look.
📝 Note:
 Grinding removes high points in concrete
 Self-leveling compound fills low or uneven areas
 Solid hardwood cannot be used for concrete surfaces as it cannot be properly hammered

Note: For installation of tiles, mortar is applied on the surface and occasionally on the bottom of tile (if the tile
is very large, this improves adhesion). Space between tile is left out while laying them. This space is later on
filled with grout.

 One Liner Summaries:

Plywood:
Pros
Insulation:
3 Core Purpose: Temperature in-out flow, and sound proofing (only some are good with sound).
Higher R value means the material has greater resistance against conductivity – In simple words
higher R means more resistance. Keep cold air out during winter and hot air out during summer.
Fiberglass Insulation: Made of glass fibers.

Mineral wool (Stonewool) Insulation: Made of stones like basalt. Stones are melted and spun.
[Rockwool is a brand name producing mineral wool] -

Rigid Insulation: Made of foam (similar to thermocol) like EPS,

XPS, Polysio. These 3 can be used separately (They are types). RIGID INSULATION
A. Expanded Polystyrene (EPS): Thermocol – Extremely lightweight made of air and white beads
(plastic called as polystyrene). Not good with water insulation. Cold from the ground can rise
up in the building. Use this to maintain room temperature. Can be used in basement walls and
below foundation. Not good with water
B. XPS – Extruded Polystyrene (XPS): Denser, stronger and water resistant as compared to EPS.
Made from polystyrene plastic. Just like EPS, if chances of water seepage or room getting cold
are higher, use XPS insulation in walls and under flooring.
C. Polyisocyanurate or Polyiso: Highest R value and foil facing boards. That means heat during
summer is reflected back preventing temperature rise inside building. However, performance
drops due to cold temperature, not water resistant and costs more than XPS/EPS.
Sometimes spray foam (foam expanding in place) or cellulose insulation might also be used. They
are used in difficult places where normal insulation is difficult to install.
 Stone Wool / Rockwool /
Feature Fiberglass Rigid Insulation
Mineral Wool

Natural rock (like basalt) Foam (like EPS, XPS, or

Material Fine glass fibers
melted and spun Polyiso)

Batts, rolls, or loose-

Form Batts or rigid boards Rigid boards
fill

Thermal R-4 to R-6.5 per inch

R-3 to R-4 per inch R-3.7 to R-4.2 per inch
Insulation (depends on type)

Soundproofing Decent Excellent Poor to moderate

Poor (can absorb

Water Resistance Excellent (repels water) Good (depends on type)
moisture)

Good (non- Excellent (very high melting Varies (some types burn,
Fire Resistance
combustible) point) others resist)

Ease of
Easy, but itchy Easy, less itchy than fiberglass Requires cutting tools
Installation

Cost Cheaper Mid-range More expensive

Walls, floors, soundproofing, Exterior walls, below-

Common Use Walls, attics
fire resistance grade, roofs
EFIS means Exterior Insulation and Finish System consisting of base coat, insulation (EPS
generally), wired mesh and top protective finish consisting of stucco, siding, or brick.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/4i2T9Wj2iKE
Panel = Just insulation board inside the wall
EIFS = Wall system made of basecoat, wired mesh, insulation, and protective finish.
Stucco – Plaster made of cement, sand, lime and water. Generally, comes in two types: Traditional
(Rough), and Acrylic (smooth)
Siding – Outermost protective layer of a building made from vinyl, wood, fiber cement or metal.
[Note: Façade refers to outermost layer dealing more with design and appearance]
Type Material Look/Feel

Vinyl Siding Plastic (PVC) Lightweight, low maintenance

Wood Siding Real wood panels Natural, warm look

Fiber Cement Cement + fibers Looks like wood, strong

Metal Siding Aluminum/Steel Modern, fire-resistant

🔄 Summary: Stucco vs Siding
Feature Stucco Siding
Material Cement plaster Vinyl, wood, metal, or fiber cement
Look Textured (smooth or rough) Panel or plank style (horizontal/vertical)
Installed by Spraying or troweling by hand Fastened with nails or screws
Common in Mediterranean, modern homes North American homes (traditional)
Main Use Decoration + Protection Protection + Fast Installation

Stucco
Vinyl Siding (Blue ones)
(Note: Cladding is a broader/more general term encompassing siding)
Typical wall layers:
Exterior Cladding – Water Proof Barrier (with Air Barrier)– Sheathing – Framing – Vapor Barrier –
Interior Finish
Barriers/Membranes:
🧱 1. What is Moisture, Humidity & Vapor?
 Moisture = water in any form (liquid, vapor, fog).
 Humidity = how much water vapor is in the air.
 Warm air holds more vapor than cold air because air molecules move faster and create
more space.
 Condensation = when warm, moist air hits a cold surface, and vapor turns into liquid
water (fog on glass, water drops on cold bottle, etc.).

🧱 2. What Is a Vapor Barrier?

 Vapor barrier is a plastic sheet or coating that stops water vapor from entering wall
cavities. Warm air inside building should not touch cold wall faces. It might lead to
condensation ultimately causing mold, rot and damage.
 It's used to prevent condensation inside walls (which causes mold, rot, insulation damage).
 In cold climates (like Canada), it’s placed on the inside (warm side) of the wall.
 Purpose: Keep warm, moist indoor air from reaching cold wall layers.

🧱 3. What Is an Air Barrier?

 Air barrier stops air movement through walls, roofs, and floors.
 Helps in reducing energy loss, drafts, and uncontrolled moisture movement.
 Can be a housewrap (like Tyvek), spray foam, or sealed sheathing.
 Needs to be continuous and sealed at all gaps.

🧱 4. What Is a Water Barrier (WRB)?

 A water barrier stops rainwater or liquid water from getting into walls.
 Commonly made of housewrap (Tyvek), building paper, or peel-and-stick membranes.
 It’s installed behind the cladding (siding/stucco), over the sheathing.
 It is breathable: stops water, but let’s vapor escape.
🧱 5. Why These Barriers Matter?

Barrier Type Blocks Installed Where Main Job

Vapor Barrier Water vapor Inside wall (warm side) Stop condensation inside walls

Air Barrier Air movement Anywhere in wall/roof Stop drafts, save energy

Water Barrier Rainwater Behind siding/stucco Stop rain getting inside wall

🧱 6. Understanding Indian vs Canadian Climate Behavior

 In hot, dry parts of India, you feel hot but not sticky → air has less humidity, even if
temperature is high. We sweat less when air is dry as it absorbs our sweat quickly.
 In coastal areas (like Mumbai), air is hot and humid — high moisture, low evaporation.
 No air movement (poor ventilation) makes Indian homes feel hotter, but that’s not always
because of humidity — it’s due to heat buildup.

🧱 7. Condensation in Walls
 When warm indoor air moves into a cold wall, vapor condenses and becomes water.
 This is why we need vapor barriers — to stop vapor movement and keep walls dry.

🧱 8. Construction Relevance
 Air + vapor control layers are key in energy efficiency and wall durability.
 In cold countries: focus is on blocking inside moisture from entering wall cavities.
 In hot/humid countries: strategy may reverse — or use no vapor barrier at all.

Water Barriers/Membranes:
Water inside building enters either from roof (due to rain), ground water (capillary rise +
hydrostatic pressure), water vapor (not an issue for hot countries).