™

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

A. R. F.
Almost Ready to Fly

Wingspan: 65 in [1651mm]
Wing Area: 1072 sq in [69 dm2]
Weight: 7 lbs - 7 lbs 6 oz [3175 - 3345g]
Wing Loading: 15 - 15.9 oz/sq ft [46 - 48 g/dm2]
Length: 69.5 in [1765mm]
Engine: .61 - .91 cu in [10 - 15cc] two-stroke, .70 - .91 cu in [11 - 15cc] four-stroke

WARRANTY
Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled
product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this
kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE

STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF 1610 Interstate Drive Champaign, IL 61822
(217) 398-8970, Ext 2
THIS MODEL. [email protected]

© Copyright 2002 GPMZ0276 for GPMA1270 V1.0

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 TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION
Whether you're just learning to do basic aerobatics or are
looking for a quick practice plane as a backup to your
INTRODUCTION ................................................................2 $10,000 Unlimited aerobatic machine, U-CAN-DO 3D is just
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ..................................................2 the bird you're looking for.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ........................................3
Radio Equipment................................................................3 Large control surfaces, light wing loading and an all around
Engine Recommendations .................................................3 performance design work together to put a fun-to-fly do-it-all
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED .....................................3 3D aerobatic machine in your hands. With the U-CAN-DO
Hardware and Accessories ................................................3 3D on low rates, it is a perfect choice for learning to do basic
aerobatics or for great Sunday fun flying. With a powerful,
Covering Accessories.........................................................4
high torque 4-stroke such as an OS .91, the U-CAN-DO 3D
Adhesives and Building Supplies .......................................4 provides exceptional slow speed and below-stall-speed
Optional Supplies and Tools...............................................4 (3D) aerobatic performance.
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES.......................................4
KIT CONTENTS.................................................................5 For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS...............................6 U-CAN-DO 3D, visit the web site listed below and select the
PREPARATIONS................................................................7 Great Planes U-CAN-DO 3D ARF. If there is new technical
information or changes to this model, a “tech notice” box will
BUILD THE WING ..............................................................7
appear in the upper left corner of the page.
Mount the Ailerons .............................................................7
Install the Aileron Servos and Pushrods ............................8
Mount the Wing to the Fuselage ......................................10 http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/index.html
BUILD THE FUSELAGE..................................................11
Mount the Stab and Fin....................................................11
Mount the Wheel Pants & Landing Gear..........................13
Mount the Engine .............................................................15
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
Mount the Cowl ................................................................15 & OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
Install the Tank .................................................................17 IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
FINAL ASSEMBLY ..........................................................18
Install the Remaining Servos ...........................................18 1. Your U-CAN-DO 3D should not be considered a toy, but
Mount the Canopy ............................................................20 rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
Apply the Decals ..............................................................21 much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY..................................21 capabilities, the U-CAN-DO 3D 60, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
Check the Control Directions ...........................................21
spectators and damage to property.
Set the Control Throws.....................................................21
Balance the Model (C.G.).................................................21 2.You must assemble the model according to the instructions.
Balance the Model Laterally.............................................22 Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
PREFLIGHT .....................................................................22 unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may
Identify Your Model ...........................................................22 differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written
Charge the Batteries ........................................................22 instructions should be considered as correct.
Balance Propellers ...........................................................23
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
Ground Check ..................................................................23
Range Check....................................................................23 4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .................................23 condition and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel
AMA SAFETY CODE ......................................................23 tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
General.............................................................................23
Radio Control ...................................................................24 5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components so
CHECKLIST.....................................................................24 that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.
FLYING.............................................................................24
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
Takeoff ..............................................................................25 flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
Flight.................................................................................25 model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
Landing.............................................................................25 clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
PERFORMANCE SETTINGS ..........................................26 show any signs of wear or fatigue.
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 7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you
should fly the model only with the help of a competent, Radio Equipment
experienced R/C pilot.
4+ channel radio with 6 standard-sized servos as noted below.
8. WARNING: The cowl and wheel pants included in this kit Note that a 6+ channel, fully computerized radio system is
are made of fiberglass, the fibers of which may cause eye, highly recommended for maximum flexibility and performance.
skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part to
Ailerons:
remove fiberglass dust, as the dust will blow back into your
• Two ball bearing servos (50+ in oz: HCAM0170)
eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask and
• One 20+" y-harness (HCAM2751)
rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding fiberglass
OR
parts. Vacuum the parts and work area thoroughly after
• Two 6" extensions (HCAM2701) and one y-harness
working with fiberglass parts.
(HCAM2500)
Rudder:
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality • One high torque servo (90+ in oz: HCAM0191)
kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and • One 24" servo extension (HCAM2200)
flyability of your finished model depends on how you build
it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the Elevator:
performance of your completed model and no • Two ball bearing servos (50+ in oz:HCAM0170)
representations are expressed or implied as to the • If using a computerized radio two 24" servo extensions
performance or safety of your completed model. (HCAM2200)
• If not using a computerized radio with Ailevator programming,
then a servo reversing harness is required (FUTM4150)
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true. Throttle:
• One servo, standard (HCAM0150)
If you have not flown this type of model before, we
recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced
pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you're not a
member of a club, your local hobby shop has information
about clubs in your area whose membership includes Engine Recommendations
experienced pilots.
.61 to .91 2-stroke, .70 to .91 4-stroke
In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend you Appropriate props, fuel, glow plugs, etc. for your engine.
join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA
membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs. There Engine notes: The U-Can-Do 3D will hover on all of the
are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. recommended engines. The engines on the lower end of the
Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its range will hover nicely without over-speeding the airframe in
members who fly at sanctioned sites and events. Additionally, level flight. The engines on the higher end of the range will
training programs and instructors are available at AMA club hover and give the added power to recover from unwanted
sites to help you get started the right way. Contact the AMA at attitudes, but throttle management needs to be used to keep
the address or toll-free phone number below: the speed down. Whatever engine you choose, a 6 pitch
prop or less is recommended.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262 ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Fax (765) 741-0057

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org Hardware and Accessories

In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions You Must

Make” section, following is the list of hardware and
accessories required to finish the U-CAN-DO 3D 60. Order
numbers are provided in parentheses.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
❏ Hook & Loop Velcro (GPMQ4480)
This is a partial list of items required to finish the U-CAN-DO ❏ 3' Medium fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
3D that may require planning or decision-making before ❏ Easy Fueler™ fuel filling valve for glow fuel (GPMQ4160)
starting to build. Order numbers are provided in parentheses. ❏ Handy Mounts air valve, fuel filler mounts (GPMQ6000)
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 Covering Accessories ❏ Dead Center™ Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)
❏ Great Planes AccuThrow™ Deflection Gauge (for
measuring control throws, GPMR2405)
❏ 21st Century® sealing iron (COVR2700)
❏ 21st Century trim seal iron (COVR2750)
❏ 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
• There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Adhesives and Building Supplies
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a
In addition to common household tools and hobby tools, this length. For example #6 x 3/4" [19mm]
is the “short list” of the most important items required to build
the U-CAN-DO 3D 60. Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy
glue are recommended.
This is a number six screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long.
❏ 1/2 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)
❏ 1/2 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007) Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045) inch and a length. For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm]
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
❏ Electric drill
❏ Drill bit set including (1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/64" and 1/2" bits) This is a number four screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long
❏ Small Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers (HCAR1040) with forty threads per inch.
❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❏ Standard Hex wrench set (HCAR0520) • When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it
means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or
custom fit the part as necessary for the best fit.
Optional Supplies and Tools
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When a
will help you build the U-CAN-DO 3D 60. specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
❏ Great Planes CG Machine (GPMR2400)™

❏ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)

® ™
• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either 30-
❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475) minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy.
❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456)
❏ Masking Tape (TOPR8018) • Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
❏ CA Applicator Tips (GPMR6033) refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039) to get another view of the same parts.
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6034)
❏ Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165) • The U-CAN-DO 3D is factory-covered with Top Flite
❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090) MonoKote® film. Should repairs ever be required, MonoKote
❏ R/C-56 Canopy Glue (JOZR5007) can be patched with additional MonoKote purchased
❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060) separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls, but some
❏ Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055) hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If only a small piece of
❏ Threadlocker (GPMR6060) MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a fellow
❏ Denatured Alcohol (for epoxy clean up) modeler would give you some. MonoKote is applied with a
❏ Hobby Knife (HCAR0105), #11 Blades (HCAR0211) model airplane covering iron, but in an emergency a regular
❏ Non-elastic monofilament or Kevlar fishing line (for stab iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full
alignment) instructions for application. Following are the colors used on
❏ Builders Triangle Set (HCAR0480) (for fin alignment) this model and order numbers for six foot rolls.
❏ Easy-Touch™ Bar Sander (GPMR6170, or similar)
❏ Felt-Tip Marker (TOPQ2510) Jet White (TOPQ0204)
❏ Small metal file True Red (TOPQ0227)
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel® Sky Blue (TOPQ0206)
❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200) Sapphire Blue (TOPQ0226)
❏ Curved Tip Canopy Scissors for trimming plastic parts Black (TOPQ0208)
(HCAR0667)
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 KIT CONTENTS
Before starting to build, use the Kit Contents list to take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete and inspect
the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you
need assistance with assembly, contact Great Planes Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use
the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list on this page.
Great Planes Product Support:
Phone: (217) 398-8970
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: [email protected]

1 2

8
9 5

12
6 11
10

Kit Contents (Photographed)

1 Fiberglass Cowl 5 Stab and Elevators 9 Fuel Tank with Hardware
2 Fuselage 6 Fin and Rudder 10 Adjustable Engine Mount
3 Wing 7 Landing Gear 11 Spinner
4 Ailerons 8 Canopy 12 Wheel Pants

Kit Contents (Not Photographed)

(1) 17-1/2 .074 wire (throttle pushrod) (4) #6 lock washers (main gear and stab) (4) 6-32 x 1/8" socket head screw (main
(2) 1/4 - 20 Blind Nuts (pre-installed in fuse) (4) #6 flat washers (main gear and stab) wheels)
(1) 11-3/4" Gray plastic outer pushrod tube (4) 6-32 blind nuts (main gear and stab) (6) 2-56 x 1/2" socket head screw (rudder,
(throttle) (14) #2 x 3/8" screws (cowl, canopy, wheel elevator, ailerons)
(5) 12" .074 wire threaded one end (ailerons) pants) (4) 2-56 x 3/4" socket head screw (aileron
(1) 2" x 9" hinge material (4) #2 washers (for mounting the cowl) control horns)
(6) Nylon clevis (rudder, elevator, ailerons, (4) 8-32 blind nuts (engine mount to firewall) (1) Brass quick connect body (throttle
throttle) (4) 8-32 x 3/4" socket head screws (engine connection)
(5) Faslink (rudder, elevator, ailerons) to engine mount) (1) Nylon retainer (Throttle connection)
(2) Nylon 1/4 - 20 wing bolt (wing) (4) 8-32 x 1" socket head screws (engine (1) 4-40 x 1/4" SHCS (Throttle connection)
(5) Large nylon control horn (aileron, mount to firewall) (1) 3/32 wheel collar (tail wheel)
rudder, elevator) (8) #8 flat washers (mounting engine and (1) 4-40 set screw (tail wheel)
(7) Silicone clevis keepers (rudder, elevator, engine mount) (2) Axles
ailerons, throttle) (8) #8 lock washers (mounting engine and (2) Nuts for the axles
(4) 6-32 x 3/4" socket head cap screw (main engine mount)
gear and stab) (4) 5/32" wheel collar (main wheels)

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 ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
To order replacement parts for the Great Planes U-CAN-DO 3D ARF, use the order numbers in the Replacement Parts
List that follows. Replacement parts are available only as listed. Not all parts are available separately (an aileron cannot
be purchased separately, but is only available with the wing kit). Replacement parts are not available from Product
Support, but can be purchased from hobby shops or mail order/Internet order firms. Hardware items (screws, nuts, bolts)
are also available from these outlets. If you need assistance locating a dealer to purchase parts, visit
www.greatplanes.com and click on “Where to Buy.” If this kit is missing parts, contact Product Support.

Replacement Parts List

Order Number Description How to Purchase

Missing pieces ................................................Contact Product Support
Instruction manual...........................................Contact Product Support
Full-size plans .................................................Not available
Kit parts listed below.......................................Hobby Supplier

GPMA2300 ...........Wing Kit (one piece wing, ailerons, dowels and hinge material)
GPMA2301 ...........Fuselage Kit (Fuse, belly pan, (2) balsa tank holders, stab fillet, (4) cowl
mounting blocks and servo tray)
GPMA2302 ...........Tail Set (stab, elevators, fin, rudder and hinge material)
GPMA2303 ...........Landing Gear
GPMA2304 ...........Fiberglass Cowl
GPMA2305 ...........Canopy
GPMA2306 ...........Wheel Pants (left and right wheel pant, (4) mounting plates)
GPMA2307 ...........Decal Sheet
GPMA2308 ...........Tailwheel Assembly (tail gear and tail wheel)

Metric Conversions
1/64" = .4mm 3/16" = 4.8mm 1" = 25.4mm 18" = 457.2mm
1/32" = .8mm 1/4" = 6.4mm 2" = 50.8mm 21" = 533.4mm
1/16" = 1.6mm 3/8" = 9.5mm 3" = 76.2mm 24" = 609.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm 1/2" = 12.7mm 6" = 152.4mm 30" = 762mm
1/8" = 3.2mm 5/8" = 15.9mm 12" = 304.8mm 36" = 914.4mm
5/32" = 4mm 3/4" = 19mm 15" = 381mm

To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches by 25.4

Inch Scale
0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Metric Scale
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 PREPARATIONS
❏ 1. If you have not yet done so already, remove the major
parts of the kit from the box (wings, fuse, wheel pants, cowl,
tail parts, etc.) and inspect them for damage. If any parts are
damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the address
or telephone number on page 5.

❏ 2. Use your sanding bar to round one end of each of the 5/16"
x 1-3/4" [8 x 70mm] wing dowels. Use epoxy to glue the two wing
dowels into the wing, with the non-rounded end in the wing.

1"

1"

3/4"

❏ 3. Cut eight 3/4" x 1" [19 x 25mm] hinges from the

2" x 9" [50 x 230mm] CA hinge strip. Snip the corners off so
❏ 2. Remove the masking tape and separate the ailerons they go in easier.
from the wing, the rudder from the fin and the elevators from
the stab. Where necessary, use a covering iron with a
covering sock to tighten the covering that may have
loosened during storage or from removing the masking tape.
Apply pressure over sheeted areas and the servo openings
to thoroughly bond the covering to the wood.

BUILD THE WING

Mount the Ailerons

❏ 4. Test fit the hinges in the hinge slots of the aileron and
the wing. If you have difficulty inserting the hinges, insert a
#11 blade into the slot and carefully move it back and forth
to slightly widen the slot.

❏ 1. Trim the covering on the wing from

❏ A) The servo wire hole in the top center of the wing;
❏ B) Both servo openings; ❏ 5. Test fit the ailerons to the wing with the hinges. Use a
❏ C) Both dowel holes; fine-point ballpoint pen to mark the wing and ailerons at the
❏ D) Top and Bottom wing-bolt holes. middle of each hinge.
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 ❏ 6. Separate the ailerons from the wing and take out all
the hinges.

❏ 10. Apply six drops of thin CA to the top and bottom of

each hinge. Do not use CA accelerator. After the CA has
fully hardened, test the hinges by pulling on the ailerons.
❏ 7. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm] deep at the
marks you made in the center of each hinge slot. This space
will allow the CA to “wick” in. Follow with a #11 blade to clean
out the slots. Hint: If available, use a high-speed rotary tool
Install the Aileron Servos and Pushrods
to drill the holes.

CUT THE COVERING

AWAY FROM THE SLOT

❏ 8. Cut a small strip of covering from both sides of each ❏ 1. Add servo extensions to the two aileron servos, so that
hinge slot. If this is not done the covering may interfere with the total length of the leads will be at least 18" [460mm] from
the penetration of the CA into the slot and may also interfere the servo to the end of the extension. Using tape or heat
with the free movement of the aileron. shrink tubing, securely attach the servo extension to the
servo. Note: If you are using Futaba® servos, a 6" [150mm]
lead is perfect.

❏ 9. Stick a pin through the center of each hinge. Fit the

ailerons to the wing with the hinges. The pin will keep the
hinge centered. Remove the pins from the hinges. Adjust the ❏❏ 2. Using needle nose pliers, pull the string out of the
ailerons so there is a small gap–just enough to see light right wing's servo hole. Tie the string to the end of the servo
through or to slip a piece of paper through–between the lead. Note: Take care not to pull the string loose from the
aileron and the wing. other side of the wing.
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 ❏ ❏ 3. Pull the center of the string out of the servo hole in
the wing. It might take a little fishing to get it out. Take your
time. Use the string to pull the servo wire through the wing,
being careful to not pull the string loose from the other end
taped in the wing. Fit the servo in the wing.

Correct Incorrect

❏❏ 6. Center a control horn on the mark you made. Drill

two 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the aileron for mounting the
control horn. Mount the control horn using the 2-56 x 3/4"
[19mm] socket head cap screws (SHCS) with the nylon
backing plate on the top-side of the aileron. Note: Turning a
2-56 tap through the back plate holes makes it easier to get
the SHCS to thread into them.
❏ ❏ 4. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the servo mount
for the servo screws. Add a few drops of thin CA to the holes
and allow to fully harden. Mount the aileron servo using the
hardware that came with the servo.

❏ ❏ 7. Thread a clevis 25 turns onto the end of one 12"

[305mm] pushrod. Slip a silicone retainer over the pushrod
down to the clevis.

Enlarge to 5/64"

Cut Off
Unused Arms

❏❏ 8. Make a one-arm servo arm by cutting three arms

off a four-arm servo arm. Enlarge the holes in the arm with
a Hobbico® Servo Horn Drill (or a #48 or 5/64" [2mm] drill bit)
so the pushrod will fit. Connect the servo lead to the
receiver. Turn on the transmitter and receiver to center the
❏ ❏ 5. Make a mark on the bottom L.E. of the right aileron servo. Place the servo arm on the servo so it is pointing
12-1/2" [315mm] from the inboard end of the aileron. straight towards the wing tip.
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 ❏ 12. Slide a silicone retainer over the two servo wires so
they won’t fall back into the wing.

Mount the Wing to the Fuselage

❏ 1. Mount the wing to the fuse with the two 1/4-20 x 2"
[51mm] nylon bolts.

❏ ❏ 9. Attach the clevis with pushrod to the outer hole of the

control horn. Hold the aileron straight with the wing and mark
the pushrod where it crosses the servo arm. Bend the pushrod
90 degrees away from the wing on the mark you made.

1/16" Faslink

Servo Arm Pushrod Wire

❏ 2. Trim the two bolt holes in the belly pan. Using 6-minute
❏❏ 10. Attach the pushrod to the control horn as shown epoxy, glue the belly pan to the wing, being careful to not
in the sketch. Cut off the excess pushrod. Be certain to leave glue the belly pan or wing to the fuse. Tape the belly pan to
1/16" [1.6mm] of wire protruding from the Faslink as shown the wing until the epoxy has cured.
in the sketch.
❏ 3. Remove the two 1/4-20 x 2" [51mm] nylon bolts.
Remove the wing. Note: The wing might press out of the
❏ 11. Repeat steps 2-10 for the other left side of the wing. fuse a little hard the first few times.
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 BUILD THE FUSELAGE

Mount the Stab and Fin

❏ 4. Use a #11 blade to remove the false fin from the fin
slot. Note: It may be necessary to pry up slightly on the front
of the fin fillet to remove it.

❏ 1. Attach the elevators to the stab with the same hinging

technique used for the ailerons.

❏ 5. Fit the fin in place and mark the covering on the fin
where it contacts the fuse.

❏ 2. Using a 7/64" hex wrench, remove the two 6-32 x 3/4"

[19mm] socket head cap screws from the stab fillet.

❏ 6. Trim the covering 1/8" [3mm] below the lines you made
on the fin. Be very careful not to cut into the fin itself. Wipe
❏ 3. Use a #11 blade to cut between the false stab and the away the marks on the fin you made in the previous step.
stab fillet. Note: The false stab is used in building the fuse. It The epoxy used in the next step will make removing those
can also be used for transport to keep the stab fillet in place. lines difficult.
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 How to cut covering from balsa.

To avoid cutting into the balsa, use a soldering iron instead

of a hobby knife to cut the covering. The tip of the soldering
iron doesn't have to be sharp, but a fine tip does work best.
Allow the iron to heat fully. Use a straightedge to guide the
soldering iron at a rate that will just melt the covering and not
burn into the wood. The hotter the soldering iron, the faster
it must move to melt a fine cut.
❏ 9. Use a hobby knife or a 5/32" [4mm] brass tube sharpened
on the end to cut a groove in the leading edge of the rudder to
accommodate the nylon tail gear bearing. Drill a 1/8" [3.2mm]
hole into the rudder for the “arm” portion of the tail gear wire.

❏ 10. Carefully apply a small dab of petroleum jelly to the

top and bottom of the tail gear bearing where the tail gear
❏ 7. Apply 6-minute epoxy to all joining surfaces of the fin. Fit wire goes through the bearing to keep glue from entering.
the fin in place, aligning the TE of the fin with the TE of the fuse. Apply 30-minute epoxy inside the slot in the fuselage for the
tail gear bearing and to the hinge of the tail gear bearing.
Install the tail gear bearing and wipe away any excess epoxy.

❏ 11. Test fit the rudder to the tail gear and the fin using three
CA hinges. Repeat until you are satisfied that the rudder fits
properly. Apply epoxy in the rudder for the tail gear wire. Fit the
❏ 8. Test fit the nylon tail gear bearing with the tail gear wire rudder with hinges to the fuse and wipe away residual epoxy.
into the slot in the rear of the fuse. Apply 6 drops of thin CA to both sides of each hinge.
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 the bottom edge. Use a high-speed rotary tool with a cutting
bit or a hobby knife to cut a 1/2" [13mm] hole centered on
the mark.

❏ 12. Trim the two bolt holes in the stab covering. Bolt the
stab and stab fillet in place, using the two 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm]
SHCS. NOTE: If you don’t plan on removing the stab, glue
the bolts in with medium CA. If you do plan on removing
it, make sure to check the tightness of the screws often.

❏ 13. Attach the 1-1/4" [32mm] tail wheel with the 3/32"
wheel collar and the 4-40 set screw.

Mount the Wheel Pants & Landing Gear

❏ ❏ 3. Round the bottom edge of the wheel pant mount so

it fits in the pant when the 1/2" [13mm] hole in the mount is
centered over the hole in the pant. Glue the mount to the
pant with 30-minute epoxy. The inside of the wheel pant
mount has the 1/2" [13mm] hole. Hint: for the most secure
bond, add microballoons (TOPR1090) or milled glass fibers
❏ 1. Glue one 3/32" x 1-1/8" x 1-1/8" [2.4 x 28 x 28mm] (GPMR6165) to the epoxy.
plywood wheel pant mount with a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole to a
3/32" x 1-1/8" x 1-1/8" [2.4 x 28 x 28mm] plywood wheel
pant mount with a 1/2" [13mm] hole. Make two sets of these.

❏❏ 4. Use a metal saw or a high-speed rotary tool with a

❏ ❏ 2. Make a mark on the right wheel pant centered reinforced cut-off wheel to cut 5/16" [8mm] from one of the
between the wheel pant supports and 1/2" [13mm] up from bolt-on axles. Mount the axle to the landing gear with the nut.
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 ❏ ❏ 5. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the landing gear ❏ ❏ 8. Drill two 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the pant using
diagonally on both sides of the axle nut. the holes in the gear as a guide.

❏ ❏ 9. Fasten the wheel pants to the landing gear with two

#2 x 3/8" screws. Remove the set screws in the wheel
collars and add a drop of oil to the axle and the wheel. Add
a drop of threadlocker to the set screws, install them into the
wheel collars and securely tighten. Note: Double check that
the wheel spins freely.

❏ 10. Return to step 2 and mount the other wheel and pant
to the left landing gear the same way.

❏ ❏ 6. Temporarily slide the wheel pant, a wheel collar,

wheel and second wheel collar onto the axle. Determine where
the set screws for the wheel collars will be positioned on the
axle. Remove the wheel and pant, and then file flat spots on
the bottom of the axle for the set screws in the wheel collars.

❏ 11. Mount the landing gear to the fuse with two 6-32 x 3/4"
❏ ❏ 7. Mount the wheel to the axle and tighten the set screws. SHCS, #6 flat washers and #6 lock washers.
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 Mount the Engine

❏ 5. Use small clamps or another method to temporarily

secure the engine to the mount with the back plate of the
spinner 5-7/8" [150mm] from the firewall. Use the Great
❏ 1. Draw a vertical line on the firewall using the embossed Planes Dead Center™ Engine Mount Hole Locator
lines as a guide. Note: This line is offset to the left side of the (GPMR8130) or your preferred method to mark the engine
fuse so that the spinner will be on the center-line of the fuse. mount holes onto the engine mount.

❏ 6. Remove the engine from the mount. Drill #29 holes

through the mount at the marks you made. Tap 8-32 threads
into the mount. Mount the engine to the mount with four
8-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS, #8 flat washers and #8 lock washers.

❏ 2. Trim the spreader bars from both halves of the engine Mount the Cowl
mount. Mount the engine mount to the firewall with four
8-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS, #8 flat washers and #8 lock washers,
but do not fully tighten the bolts.

❏ 3. Adjust the width of the mount to fit the engine. Center

the molded-in “tick” marks on the engine mount equally to
the left and right of the vertical line on the firewall. Tighten
the mounting bolts.

❏ 4. Place the back plate of the spinner on the engine. ❏ 1. Use epoxy to glue the four 3/8" x 3/4" x 3/4"
Note: Depending on your engine choice, it may be [9.5 x 19 x 19mm] maple cowl mounting blocks to the firewall
necessary to enlarge the hole in the back plate. in approximately the locations shown.
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 9. Use the filler valve mount from a Great Planes Handy Mounts
❏ 2. Hold a ruler to the fuse centered on one of the cowl set (GPMQ6000), or fashion a mount from 1/8" [3mm] plywood
mounting blocks. Use a felt-tip pen to draw a line directly (not included) for the fuel filler valve. A Great Planes Easy-
onto the fuse along the straightedge. Fueler for glow fuel was used on this model (GPMQ4160, not
included with this kit). Use epoxy to securely glue the filler valve
❏ 3. Mark a reference point on the end of the line exactly mount to the firewall in a location where the filler valve will be
6" [152mm] from the center of the cowl mounting block. accessible outside the cowl when it's time to fuel the engine.

❏ 4. Mark the location of the remaining three cowl mounting

blocks the same way.

❏ 5. Place the cowl on the fuse. Mount the spinner and prop
to the engine. Position the cowl on the fuse so it is in
alignment with the spinner. Be certain there is at least a
3/32" [2.5mm] gap between the front of the cowl and the
back plate of the spinner. It may be helpful to have an
assistant hold the cowl for you.

❏ 10. Use thin cardboard or plastic to make templates for

the muffler, mixture screw, filler valve and glow plug cutouts
in the cowl. Tape the template(s) to the fuselage accurately
indicating the positions. Note: With this engine installation
we installed the muffler bolts through two 1/4" [6mm] holes
in the right side of the cowl. This is the time to decide how
you are going to mount your muffler.

❏ 6. Align the ruler with the line on the fuselage. Mark the
center of the cowl mounting block on the cowl 6" from the
reference point. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the cowl
and the mounting block at the mark. Enlarge the hole in the
cowl only with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill. Mount the cowl to the
block with a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screw and a #2 washer

❏ 7. With your assistant holding the cowl in position, mark,

drill and mount the cowl to the three remaining cowl
mounting blocks the same way ❏ 11. Remount the cowl under the templates. Use a felt-tip
pen to transfer the holes in the template onto the cowl.
❏ 8. Remove the cowl. Clean the reference marks off the fuse. Remove the templates and the cowl.
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 ❏ 12. Cut out the holes in the cowl with a high-speed rotary
tool and a small cutting bit.

❏ 2. Arrange the stopper and tubes as shown in the photo,

then insert them into the tank. Tighten the screw to expand
the stopper, thus sealing the tank. Be certain the fuel line
weight (clunk) at the end of the fuel line inside the tank does
not contact the rear of the tank. Otherwise, the line may
become stuck above the fuel level and discontinue fuel flow.
❏ 13. Cut the air opening in the front of the cowl as shown. Remember (or use a felt-tip pen to mark) which tube is the
Note: Do not remount the cowl. The tank, fuel line and fuel pick-up tube and which tube is the vent (that will be
throttle pushrod still need to be installed. connected to the pressure fitting on the engine’s muffler).

Balsa Fuel Tank Support

Install the Tank
❏ 3. Install the tank in the fuse. Fit the neck through the
hole in the firewall. Be certain the vent tube inside the tank
is pointing upward.

❏ 1. Roughen the outside of the 11-3/4" [300mm] gray

pushrod outer tube with coarse sand paper. Fit the tube
through the firewall and the second former leaving 1/8"
[3mm] protruding from the firewall. Glue the tube to the ❏ 4. Glue a 5/16" x 3/4" x 3" [8 x 19 x 80mm] balsa block
firewall and the second former in the fuse with thin CA. to the fuse to hold the tank in place.
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 FINAL ASSEMBLY

Install the Remaining Servos

❏ 4. Make a mark on the bottom L.E. of each elevator 1/2"

[13mm] from the inboard edge of each elevator. Position the
control horn centered over the mark. Mark the hole locations
on the elevator.

❏ 1. Add servo extensions to the three tail servos so that

the total length of each lead will be at least 36" (914mm)
from the servo to the end of the extension. Using tape or
heat shrink tubing, securely attach the servo extension to
the servo. Note: Use 24" [600mm] extensions with Futaba
servos to get the 36" [914mm] length.

Correct Incorrect

❏ 5. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the elevators for

mounting the control horns with 2-56 x 1/2" SHCS [socket head
cap screws], then mount the control horn using the screws and
the nylon backing plate on the top-side of the elevators. Note:
Turning a 2-56 tap through the back plate holes makes it easier
to get the socket head cap screws to thread into them.

❏ 2. Trim the covering from the three tail servo holes. Fit the
servos in place. Note: The servo leads need to go forward
in the fuse to the wing opening.

❏ 3. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the servo mount for

the servo screws. Add a few drops of thin CA to the holes ❏ 6. Mount the rudder control horn the same as the
and allow to fully harden. Mount the tail servos using the elevators’, positioning it so that it captures the tail gear wire
hardware that came with the servo. in the rudder.
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 ❏ 7. Thread a clevis 25 turns onto one end of each of the three
12" [305mm] pushrods. Slip a silicone retainer over the clevises.

❏ 8. Make three one-arm servo arms. Enlarge the holes in

the arm with a Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (or a #48 or 5/64"
(2mm) drill bit) so the pushrod will fit.

❏ 12. Screw a clevis 10 turns onto the end of the 17-1/2"

[445mm] throttle pushrod. Bend the pushrod as necessary
for a smooth action.

❏ 13. Glue the servo tray in place with medium CA, as

shown in the photo. Fit the throttle servo in the tray but do
not screw it in place at this time.

Use these photos for the next three steps. NOTE: The
photos depict a radio setup that does not have mixing. If
your radio has twin elevator mixing, mount both servo arms
towards the stab.

❏ 9. Connect the servo leads to the receiver. Turn on the

transmitter and receiver to center the servos. Attach the
servo arms to the servos 90 degrees to the servo.

❏ 10.Attach the clevises with pushrods to the control horns.

Hold the control surfaces straight and mark the pushrods
where they cross the servo arms. Bend the pushrods 90
degrees away from the fuse on the marks you made. Turn ❏ 14. Connect the throttle pushrod to the throttle servo with
the receiver and transmitter off. the screw-lock connector.

❏ 11. Attach the pushrods to the control horns as shown. ❏ 15. Let the pushrod locate the servo in the tray. Mount
Trim the pushrod, being certain to leave 1/16" [1.6mm] of the servo to the servo tray with the hardware provided with
wire protruding from the Faslinks. your servo.
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 Mount the Canopy

❏ 1. Use curved-tip scissors to cut out the canopy along the cut
line. True the edges by sanding with medium-grit sandpaper.

❏ 16. Route the fuel lines as needed and mount the cowl,
prop, muffler and spinner.

❏ 2. Place the canopy on the cockpit. Use a fine-point felt-tip

pen to lightly trace the outline of the canopy onto the fuse.
Option: Four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws are provided if you
prefer to make the canopy removable.

❏ 3. Remove the canopy. Use a pin to poke several holes

through the covering all the way around the cockpit 3/32"
[2.4mm] inside the line you marked. These holes will help
the glue adhere to the cockpit when it's time to glue the
❏ 17. Wrap the battery pack and receiver in at least 1/4" canopy on. Use a tissue dampened with alcohol to wipe
[6mm] of R/C foam rubber and install them in the fuselage. away the ink line.
On our model with the O.S. MAX .61 FX, the battery and
receiver were mounted where shown in the photo to
minimize the amount of tail weight required to balance the
model at the correct C.G. Securely hold the battery pack and
receiver in position with the 5/16" x 3/4" x 3" [8 x 19 x 80mm]
balsa block glued between the fuse sides. Simply stuffing
the receiver and battery pack in place with additional foam
rubber is not a secure method of holding them in place.

❏ 18. Mount the receiver on/off switch. A Great Planes

Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set (GPMM1000), not
included, was used on this model. Be certain it is in a
location away from the engine exhaust.

❏ 19. Extend the receiver antenna and guide it out of the

fuselage. Connect it to a pin pressed into the bottom of the ❏ 4. Wash the canopy in warm, soapy water. Glue the
fuse. Be certain there is a strain relief on the antenna to canopy to the fuse with R/C-56 Canopy Glue (JOZR5007).
keep stress off the solder joint inside the receiver. On our CA could be used, but great care must be taken not to fog the
prototype we drilled a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through the canopy or use too much CA which could run onto the canopy
bottom sheeting aft of the wing opening and routed the or the covering. Canopy glue provides working time and can
antenna through the hole. The end of the antenna was be wiped away with a damp tissue before it dries. Use rubber
connected to a hook made from a cut-off servo arm bands, weights, tape or whatever method appropriate to hold
connected to a small rubber band and the tail gear. the canopy to the cockpit until the glue dries.
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 Apply the Decals Set the Control Throws

1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from Use a ruler to accurately measure and set the control throw of
the sheet. each control surface as indicated in the chart that follows. If your
radio does not have dual rates, we recommend setting the
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily throws at the low rate settings. NOTE: The throws are measured
fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with at the widest part of the elevators, rudder and ailerons.
a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water–about one
teaspoon of soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in
the soap and water and peel off the paper backing. Note: We recommend the following control surface throws:
Even though the decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the
water transfer type, submersing them in soap & water allows High Rate Low Rate
accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath. ELEVATOR: 1-1/8" [28mm] up 3/4" [19mm] up
1-1/8" [28mm] down 3/4" [19mm] down
3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away. RUDDER: 2-1/4" [57mm] right 1-1/4" [31mm] right
2-1/4" [57mm] left 1-1/4" [31mm] left
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to
squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the AILERONS: 1-3/8" [35mm] up 7/8" [22mm] up
rest of the decals the same way. 1-3/8" [35mm] down 7/8" [22mm] down

3D Control Throws

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY NOTE: The 3D control throws are only meant to be used
for extreme aerobatics. These are not meant for normal
flying. Be confident using your dual rate switches before
Check the Control Directions utilizing these rates.

❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the ELEVATOR: 3" [75mm] up
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos 3" [75mm] down
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms. RUDDER: 4" [100mm] right
4" [100mm] left
❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust AILERONS: 2-1/8" [55mm] up
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces. 2-1/8" [55mm] down

IMPORTANT: The U-CAN-DO 3D has been extensively

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP
(STANDARD MODE 2) flown and tested to arrive at the throws at which it flies best.
Flying your model at these throws will provide you with the
greatest chance for successful first flights. If, after you have
become accustomed to the way the U-CAN-DO 3D flies, you
would like to change the throws to suit your taste, that is fine.
4-CHANNEL 4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER TRANSMITTER
However, too much control throw could make the model
ELEVATOR MOVES UP RUDDER MOVES RIGHT
difficult to control, so remember, “more is not always better.”

4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
Balance the Model (C.G.)
RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies and may
❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the determine whether or not your first flight will be successful.
carburetor respond in the correct direction as shown in the
If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many flights,
diagram. If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction,
DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE.
use the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the
A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and
servos connected to those controls. Be certain the control
possibly unflyable.
surfaces have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
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 At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
with all of the systems in place including the engine, landing weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
gear, covering and the radio system. exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or
❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8"-wide tape to accurately mark epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.
the C.G. on the top of the wing. The C.G. is located 4-7/8"
[124mm] back from the leading edge of the wing. ❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any
weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
This is where your model should balance for your first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G. up to 3/8" [9mm] forward or 1/2" [13mm] back to
change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward Balance the Model Laterally
may improve the smoothness and stability, but it may then
require more speed for takeoff and make it more difficult
to slow for landing. Moving the C.G. aft makes the model
❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
more maneuverable, but could also cause it to become
fuse under the TE of the fin. Do this several times.
too difficult for you to control. In any case, start at the
location we recommend and do not at any time balance
your model outside the recommended range.
❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the
other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced
will track better in loops and other maneuvers.

Plane is balanced correctly when

the bottom of the fuse is horizontal.
4-7/8"
[124mm] PREFLIGHT

Identify Your Model

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if

you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the
model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, place identification tag on the decal sheet and place it on or inside
the model upside-down on a Great Planes CG Machine, or your model.
lift it upside-down at the balance point you marked.

❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the

battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or
weight must be added to the nose to balance. If the nose Charge the Batteries
drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack
and/or receiver must be shifted aft or weight must be added Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
to the tail to balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
and receiver to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the
required. If additional weight is required, nose weight may night before you go flying and at other times as
be easily added by using a “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for recommended by the radio manufacturer.
the 1 oz. weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. weight). If
spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great NOTE: Checking the condition of your receiver battery pack
Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add is highly recommended. All battery packs, whether it's a
stick-on nose weight is to the firewall (don't attach weight to trusty pack you've just taken out of another model, or a new
the cowl–it is not intended to support weight). Begin by battery pack you just purchased, should be cycled, noting
placing incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the the discharge capacity. Oftentimes, a weak battery pack can
bottom of the fuse over the firewall until the model balances. be identified (and a valuable model saved!) by comparing its
Once you have determined the amount of weight required, it actual capacity to its rated capacity. Refer to the instructions
can be permanently attached. If required, tail weight may be and recommendations that come with your cycler. If you
added by cutting open the bottom of the fuse and gluing it don't own a battery cycler, perhaps you can have a friend
permanently inside. cycle your pack and note the capacity for you.
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 Balance Propellers ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Failure to follow these safety precautions may result

in severe injury to yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to

operate engines.
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
significant cause of vibration that can damage your model.
Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the
engine to run hot or quit. plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the engine.

We use a Top Flite® Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™ Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box. pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.

Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain the
Ground Check glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop
off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer's
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.
confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly
and rapidly to full power and maintains full power- The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
indefinitely. After you run the engine on the model, inspect operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
the model closely to make sure all screws remained tight, will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.
the hinges are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods
and connectors are secure. To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off
the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer's
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. Do not throw anything
Range Check into the propeller of a running engine.

Ground check the operational range of your radio before the

first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPT)
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are Aeronautics Official Safety Code:
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control General
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections or 1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a proven to be airworthy by having been previously
damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash. successfully flight tested.
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 2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately ❏ 6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical fasteners
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the such as the set screws that hold the wheel axles to the struts,
airport operator. I will give right of way to and avoid flying in screws that hold the carburetor arm (if applicable), screw-lock
the proximity of full scale aircraft. Where necessary an pushrod connectors, etc.
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having ❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn freely.
models fly in the proximity of full scale aircraft. ❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA
3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the where appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl mounting
flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my screws, etc.).
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner. ❏ 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct
direction and the throws are set up according to the manual.
7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name ❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the servos
with the screws included with your radio.
9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device ❏ 12. Secure connections between servo wires and Y-
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind). connectors or servo extensions and the connection between
your battery pack and the on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat
shrink tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.
Radio Control ❏ 13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground pushrods, etc.).
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model. ❏ 14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler with high
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound or J.B. Weld.
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by ❏ 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
an experienced helper. not kinked.
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit ❏ 16. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
or spectator areas and I will not thereafter fly over pit or ❏ 17. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
spectator areas, unless beyond my control. ❏ 18. Place your name, address, AMA number and
4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies telephone number on or inside your model.
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission. ❏ 19. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
❏ 20. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your first flight.
CHECK LIST ❏ 21. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.

During the last few moments of preparation your mind

may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first FLYING
flight. Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook
certain checks and procedures that should be performed
before the model is flown. To help avoid this, a checklist is
The U-Can-Do 3D is a great-flying model that flies smoothly
provided to make sure these important areas are not
and predictably. The U-Can-Do 3D does not, however,
overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual,
possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C
so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete
trainer and should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots.
instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they are
completed (that's why it's called a check list!).
Whether you are looking to practice new 3D maneuvers and
don't want to risk your competition aircraft, or are just
❏ 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust residue starting to learn the most basic aerobatics, the U-Can-Do
such as the cowl ring, cowl mounting blocks, wing saddle 3D is a great choice. Regardless of your skill level, be sure
area, etc. your first flight begins with low rates (yes, even in a
❏ 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements crosswind) and that you gradually expand your flight, adding
provided in the manual. one new maneuver at a time.
❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into place with Take offs, landings and most of your normal flights should be
foam rubber is not sufficient. flown on low rates. (If your radio does not have dual rates, be
❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a sure to set the model up on the low rates provided.) The high
strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the solder rates on this model are meant ONLY for use when doing 3D
joint inside the receiver. aerobatics – maneuvers performed while the model is flying
❏ 5. Balance your model laterally as explained in slower than its normal stall speed. That includes maneuvers
the instructions. as simple as a stall turn, or as complex as harrier rolls.
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 Don't get spoiled by how incredibly well the U-Can-Do 3D
hangs and torque rolls! Most models take an enormous Flight
amount of work to keep the model stationary in a hanger, but
the unique design of U-Can-Do 3D helps lock it solid in For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a
position and torque roll and hang with relative ease. good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you. Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
Fuel Mixture Adjustments comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than takeoff, most models fly more smoothly at reduced speeds.
an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture
should be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm Take it easy with the U-CAN-DO-3D for the first few flights,
below peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain confidence.
will help prevent dead-stick landings caused by overheating. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level flight. After flying
around for a while and while still at a safe altitude with plenty of
fuel, practice slow flight and execute practice landing
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If, approaches by reducing the throttle to see how the model
while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a low- handles at slower speeds. Add power to see how she climbs as
pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface flutter. well. Continue to fly around, executing various maneuvers and
Because flutter can quickly destroy components of your making mental notes (or having your assistant write them down)
airplane, any time you detect flutter you must immediately of what trim or C.G. changes may be required to fine tune the
cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check all servo model so it flies the way you like. Mind your fuel level, but use
grommets for deterioration (this may indicate which surface this first flight to become familiar with your model before landing.
fluttered) and make sure all pushrod linkages are secure and
free of play. If the control surface fluttered once, it probably
will flutter again under similar circumstances unless you can Landing
eliminate the free-play or flexing in the linkages. Here are
some things which can cause flutter: Excessive hinge gap; To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch downward
horn; Side-play of pushrod in guide tube caused by tight to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but
bends; Poor fit of Z-bend in servo arm; Insufficient glue used maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto
when gluing in the elevator joiner wire; Excessive play or the crosswind leg. Make your final turn toward the runway (into
backlash in servo gears; and Insecure servo mounting. the wind) keeping the nose down to maintain airspeed and
control. Level the attitude when the model reaches the runway
threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary to maintain
your glide path and airspeed. If you are going to overshoot,
smoothly advance the throttle (always ready on the right
Takeoff rudder to counteract torque) and climb out to make another
attempt. When you're ready to make your landing flare and the
Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles model is a foot or so off the deck, smoothly increase up
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds elevator until it gently touches down. Once the model is on the
on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on runway and has lost flying speed, hold up elevator to place the
the ground. If necessary, adjust the tail wheel so the model tail on the ground, regaining tail wheel control.
will roll straight down the runway. If you need to calm your
nerves before the maiden flight, shut the engine down and One final note about flying your model. Have a goal or flight plan
bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new
check all fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind. maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know, or
learning how the model behaves in certain conditions (such as
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you're ready, point on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to improve your
the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of up elevator skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more importantly so
to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail wheel steering, you do not surprise yourself by impulsively attempting a
then gradually advance the throttle. As the model gains maneuver and suddenly finding that you've run out of time,
speed decrease up elevator, allowing the tail to come off the altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be deliberate, not
ground. One of the most important things to remember with impulsive. For example, if you're going to do a loop, check your
a tail dragger is to always be ready to apply right rudder to altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating rudder corrections
counteract engine torque. Gain as much speed as your that will be required to maintain heading), remember to throttle
runway and flying site will practically allow before gently back at the top and make certain you are on the desired rates
applying up elevator, lifting the model into the air. At this (high/low rates). A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of
moment it is likely that you will need to apply more right crashing your model just because of poor planning and
rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on the impulsive moves. Remember to think. Have a ball! But
elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle climb always stay in control and fly in a safe manner.
to a safe altitude before turning into the traffic pattern. GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
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 PERFORMANCE SETTINGS Servos
FOR THE U-CAN-DO 3D Elevators: Futaba 9250 digital (FUTM0220)
Ailerons: Futaba 9250 digital
After testing this plane with several different engines, props, Rudder: Futaba 9151 digital (FUTM0211)
CG locations and countless different control throw settings, Throttle: Futaba 9001 (FUTM0075)
I found the following setup to be ideal for my particular style
of flying 3D. The large control throws require a servo with great centering.
The digital servos are second to none in this department. You
Mike Cross, Two Time US National Freestyle IMAC Champion can NOT expect this aircraft to give you optimum performance
on non-ball-bearing standard servos such as Futaba S148.

3D Control Throws
C.G.

4-7/8" back from the LE of the wing. This is the normal ELEVATOR: 3" [75mm] up
recommended CG and is perfect for the aircraft to hover. 3" [75mm] down
Going forward or aft creates a small amount of coupling
between the rudder and elevators while hovering. This CG is RUDDER: 4" [100mm] right
also very responsive but still has a comfortable “feel” in flight. 4" [100mm] left

AILERONS: 2-1/8" [55mm] up

2-1/8" [55mm] down
Engine FLAPERONS: 2" [50mm] up
2" [50mm] down
O.S. .91FS pumped (OSMG0890), 15x6 APC (APCQ1506), (assigned to a switch,
Wildcat 15% nitro (CATP1105). not mixed to the elevator)

The .61FX hovers pretty well but is a little lacking when Expo for 3D rates (no mixing other than expo):
things get out of shape. Elevators: -20%
Rudder: -20%
The .91FX (OSMG0591) hovers almost as well as the Ailerons: -20%
.91FS with the same 15x6 APC prop. It is not quite as steady
as the .91FS.

NOTE: Flying on the OS 1.20FS caused more tail weight to

be needed, made it so the plane would not sit still on the
runway and made it difficult to maintain a hover. The Servo Arms
hovering was hindered by using such a low throttle setting
that the poor throttle resolution made it very difficult to stay Larger than stock servo arms are highly recommended for
in one spot. I do not recommend a 120 4-stroke or larger getting the 3D throws from the U-Can-Do 3D. Do not move
engine if performance aerobatics are desired. the pushrods in on the control horns to get the increased
throw, as doing this intensifies any play in the system.

Dubro Super Strength Arms set (DUBM6670):

• The longest single sided arm was used on the rudder.

Spinner • The mid sized single sided arms were used on the elevators.
• The double-sided arms were made into single sided
Spinner 2-1/4" True Turn (TRUQ1065) and True Turn lock nut aileron servo arms.
(TRUQ3063).

Note: A 2-1/4" nylon spinner is included with the U-Can-Do

3D but with the larger engines it requires extensive trimming
of the spinner. If you have to trim the spinner, I strongly
suggest using an aluminum spinner instead.
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 OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE FROM GREAT PLANES
Futaba® S9151 Digital Rudder Servo (FUTM0211)
Stock # FUTJ85** Length: 1.5 in
Tx 9CAF Width: 0.75 in
Rx R148DF Height: 1.4 in
Servos (4) S3004 Weight: 1.75 oz
Tx NiCd 700mAh Torque: 131.9 oz/in (4.8V)
Rx NiCd 600mAh Speed: 0.19 sec @ 60° (4.8V)
Band 50, 72
Modulation FM
The S9151 delivers high-torque rudder operation for precision
aerobatic aircraft. Its digitally enhanced microprocessors
Stock # FUTJ87** reduce response time by about half, allowing the servo to
Tx 9CAP reach full power immediately and maintain torque longer.
Rx R149DP Other features include a coreless motor, dual ball bearings on
Servos (4) S3001 the output shaft and high-capacity, high-current wire with low
Tx NiCd 700mAh resistance. Futaba J connector. 1-year warranty.
Rx NiCd 600mAh Futaba® S9001 Aircraft Coreless BB Servo (FUTM0075)
Band 50, 72
Modulation PCM Length: 1.59 in
Width: 0.78 in
Height: 1.42 in
Futaba® 9C 9-Channel Radio Systems Weight: 1.69 oz
Torque: 54.2 oz/in (4.8V)
The 9C radios include such popular Futaba system features as governor mixing (a Speed: 0.22 sec. @ 60 degrees (4.8V)
Futaba exclusive), switch assignability, factory programming for airplanes, helis and
sailplanes, Mode 1-4 selection and expandable CAMPac model memory...PLUS
8-character model naming, improved graphics displays, 2 slider switches, a larger LCD Ideal for airplanes -- as well as sailplanes, helicopters, and
— and Futaba's most user-friendly programming ever! The top left button pulls up the nitro- or electric-powered boats -- Futaba's S9001 servo
home page, basic and expanded menus; the bottom button finalizes settings. Right features a coreless motor that reduces weight for smoother,
buttons move the cursor up and down to the values you want...and the dial does the rest. faster response. Dual bearings in the final gear speed transit
Rotate the dial to find functions; press to select.Your choices appear on the LCD. 700mAh time. Comes with J connector, one attached servo horn, three
Tx and 600mAh Rx NiCds add value. 1-year warranty. extra servo horns and mounting hardware. 1-year warranty.

O.S. Engines® .91 FX Ringed Engine w/Muffler (OSMG0591) O.S. Engines® FS-91 Surpass(tm) II Engine w/Pump (OSMG0890)

Displacement: 0.912 cu in (14.95cc) Displacement: 0.912 cu in (14.95cc)

Bore: 1.090 in (27.7mm) Bore: 1.09 in (27.7mm)
Stroke: 0.976 in (24.8mm) Stroke: 0.976 in (24.8mm)
Practical RPM: 2,000-16,000 Practical RPM: 2,000-12,000
Output: 2.8 bhp @ 15,000 rpm Output: 1.6 bhp @11,000 rpm
Weight: 19.3 oz (550g) Weight (w/o muffler) : 22.2 oz (678g)
Weight (w/muffler): 23.8 oz (630g)
Includes: Muffler, glow plug
& safety propeller locknut assembly Includes: muffler, manifold
& glow plug; PD-07 pump
Requires: fuel, mount & prop
Requires: glow fuel; prop

For 4-stroke realism, the pumped FS-91 Surpass II with electronic fuel
injection offers optimal flight performance at any attitude. Features
Features dual ball bearings for durability and smooth operation. Its low include an improved, easy-to-adjust reversible carb; corrosion-resistant
crankcase profile allows for a taller, semi-squared head with increased plating on the crankshaft, camshaft and piston; a permanently lubricated,
cooling fin area. The remote needle valve offers protection and has rubber-sealed rear bearing for easy maintenance and operation; and
coarse threads that hold settings securely. Comes with 2-year warranty muffler that produces a quieter exhaust sound without reducing
and muffler with built-in pressure tap. performance. 2-year warranty.
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 BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date: _______________________ Date Construction Finished: _________________

Where Purchased:_________________________ Finished Weight: __________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________ Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG

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