Wulfden Freeduino Kit

Basic Development Set

an Arduino clone

Totally Open Arduino-Compatible

Hardware Development

Preliminary - 09/15/2007

Wulfden at Hawk’s Mountain

The Shoppe
P.O. Box 188
Underhill Center, VT 05490

<http://www.wulfden.org>
 ii |

Table of Contents

1 Parts Lists 1
Wulfden F-Kit Basic Development Package . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
F-Kit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

2 P3 - Wulfden/Modern Device Serial Programming Adapter 2

3 Breadboard Power Supply Parts 3

4 K107 Serial LCD Controller with 2x24 non-backlit display 4

5 Miscellaneous parts 5

6 Bare Bones Board - Rev C - Assembly 6

Standard configuration. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Side-by-side proto board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
“Shield” board/daughter board. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Bare Boes Bootloader Burner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

7 Modern Device - Bare Bones Board - Rev C - Instructions 10

8 Diecimilia Hack to the BBB Implementing Autoreset for Arduinno 9 11

 | 

1 Basic Development Kit

1. 1 Wulfden F-Kit (see below)

2. 1 K107 Serial Controller with 2x24 non-backlit display and 14” three wire cable with
Molex KK connectors
3. 1 Breadboard power supply parts - LM7805, 2x 22 uF electrolytic capacitors. .1 uF
bypass cap
4. 1 P3 Wulfden/Modern Device serial programming adapter
5. 1 miscellaneous packet - resistors( 3 x 10K, 3 x 4.53K, cable and DS18B20 tempera-
ture sensor, and 2 red LEDs w/built-in series resistors

Wulfden F-Kit
1. 1 Atmega 168-20PU Mouser 556-ATMEGA168-20PU
2. 4 0.1 uF monolithic capacitors (“104”) Mouser 80-C315C104M5U
3. 1 carbon film resistor 1 Kohm 1/8 w Mouser 299-1K-RC
4. 2 carbon film resistor 10 Kohm 1/8 w Mouser 299-10K-RC
5. 1 carbon film resistor 1 Megohm 1/8 w Mouser 299-1M-RC
6. 1/2 28 pin DIP socket or 2 14 pin DIP sockets Mouser 517-4814-3004-CP
7. 1 standard 5mm red LED
8. 1 n.o. pushbutton switch
9. 2 4.7-47 uF electrolytic capacitors Mouser 140-HTRL25V22-RC
10. 1 L4931CZ50 5v 200 ma voltage regulator Mouser 511-L4931CZ50-AP
11. 2 1N4001 diodes Mouser 625-1N4001-E3
12. 1 1.3 mmm coxial power jack DigiKey CP-2519-ND
13. 1 16 MHz ceramic resonator Mouser 520-ZTT1600MX
14. 2 red jumpers Mouser 517-951-00
15. 1 15 uH surface mount inductor DigiKey PCD1099CT-ND
16. 34 pins .100”pin headers, single row, snap-off Mouser 517-6111TG
17. 20 pins .100” pin headers double row - 2x7 and 2x3 Mouser 517-6121TG
18. 6 pins .100” pin headers, single row, right angle Mouser 517-5111TG
 | Wulfden F-Kit Basic Development Kit

2 P3 - Wulfden/Modern Device
Serial Programming Adapter

1. This picture represents

the most basic F-Kit set-
up. An external power sup-
ply that, in this case plugs
into the breadboard power
rails, the BBB Rev C, Ardu-
ino CPU board, snd the P3
Wulfden/Modern Device
serial program adapter
2. For basic programming and
hardware serial access to
the Arduino board/chip,
the P3 simply plugs into the
breadboard with its pins
aligned from left to right
with GND, +5V, Rx, and Tx
of the F-Kit board.
 An arduino Clone | 

3 Breadboard Power Supply Parts

LM7805
+ +
22 uF 22 uF 0.1 uF

The two electrolytic capacitors can

have a value from 4.7 to 47 uF. The
kit is currently stocked with two 22
uF electrolytic capacitors. The 0.1
uF monolithic capacitor is impor-
tant to keep the regulator stable.

Adding a small heatsink will in-

crease the available current ca-
pacity for .5 amp up to near 1 amp.

Just set it upon the breadboard

near the terminals if it has them,
then feed the +5v output and
GND to the power rails along the
outer edges of the breadboard.
 | Wulfden F-Kit Basic Development Kit

4 K107 Serial LCD Controller with

2x24 non-backlit display

The primary documentation for this controller is the document K107R3.PDF found
in the “/datasheets” sub-directory of the Arduino Resources disk, or in a link on
the webpage at <http://www.wulfden.org/k107/>

On the board shown above the three pins, from top to bottom are GND,
+5V, signal input. Input data is expected at 9600 baud (8n1), TTL True. With the
signal selection jumper set as shown above. If you move the red jumper to the
two pins immediately below the white connector and apply 5 volts and ground to
the appropriate pins. The display will auto generate a test string of characters.

To operate in normal mode connected to a TTL/CMOS level output pin place the
jumper back where it is shown in this picture, that is, on the two pins of the three
pin header closest to the reset button. If the device is used with an RS232C volt-
age level signal move the red jumper to the two pins of the three farthest from
the reset button.

(The K107 supplied with the Basic F-Kit Development Set may not have all the
parts show above.)
 An arduino Clone | 

5
1. 1
Miscellaneous components

Servo/LCD extension cable 14” Parallax

2. 1 DS18B20 - One-Wire temperature sensor DalSemi
3. 3 carbon film resistor 4.53 Kohm 1/4 w 1% Mouser 291-4.53K-RC
4. 3 carbon film resistor 10 Kohm 1/4 w 1% Mouser 291-10K-RC
5. 2 Red LEDs w/built in series resistors

1. The 14” Servo/LCD extension cable is black-red-white

in that order. Nominally we assign GND, +5, Signal in
that order. The pinout of the DS18B20 is slightly dif-
ferent. It has +5 on pin 3 and data on pin 2. Holding the
DS18B20 with the flat side facing you insert it into the
molex connector on the cable with the black wire to
the left. Thus you have Pin 1 to the black, pin 2 to the
red, and pin 3 to the white.Then insert the 3 pin double
header into the molex connector on the other end an w
tthe breadboard with Black as GND, red as signal(data),
and white as +5v. You must also place a 4.7Kohm resistor
from +5v to data to pull up the data line.
2. The red LEDs in the miscellaneous bag have built in 330
ohm series current limiting resistors. This permits them
to be used directly on signal lines up to +5 volts to check
status. Caution - there is no visible difference between
normal LEDs and these. So keep track of them. As with
all LEDs the shorter leg is the cathode which is con-
nected to ground and the anode connected to the signal
line. When he signal goes HIGH (True), the LED lights.
Sometimes it is more appropriate to attach the anode
to the +5 lead and the cathode to the signal line. When
the signal goes to LOW(False) the LED lights.
3. There are 3 each of 1% 1/4 watt resistors in 10K and
4.53K. Attach one end of a 10K resistor to a terminal
for the voltage to be measured and the other end to an
analog input line. Then attach one end of a 4.53K resis-
tor from the analog input line to GND. This divider will
reduce a maximum of 16.03 volts to 5 volts. Given the
10 bit accuracy of the internal a/d converters you have
a resolution of 1-2 millivolts which should be more than
accurate enough for most uses.
  | Wulfden F-Kit Basic Development Kit

6 Bare Bones Board - Rev C.

For ease of viewing this is picture of the final prototype board. The production
board is identical except that it is white solder mask with black silkscreening

1. The primary reference for building the board is the Modern Devices documentation. The file is named
BB_Arduino_InstrRevC.pdf and is attached at the end of section 7 of this document
2. The board silkscreen has the part values listed. It all should be straight forward. the “104” refers to the
4 0.1 uF monolithic capacitors, they should be small and blue or yellow with a “104” on one of its sides.
3. The two polarized capacitors may be electrolytic or tantalum and of a value 4.7 uF to 47 uF. I am currently
supplying 22 uF.
4. The ‘crystal’ is a 3 pin 16 MHz ceramic resonator.
5. There is one surface mount part at 15 uH (not 10 uH on the silkscreen) inductor. It is located just above
pins 23-24 of the ATmega168. Melt a dab of solder on the left pad and slide the inductor from right to
left while touching the soldering iron to the solder, you may want to use a toothpick to steady and posi-
tion it. When it is properly placed remove the iron while holding the chip steady and let it cool for a few
seconds. then solder down the right side.
6. I suggest that you solder in all the components first, then the 28 pin (or 2 14 pin) socket for he CPU. Then
solder in the connectors located above the line of the ATmega168 CPU. Then decide what your configura-
tion will be for the data connections and solder in as appropriate.
7. Digital Pin 13 (bottom row second from right) has a ‘special’ status. If you place an LED with its anode
top to Pin 13 and its cathode to ground., when the bootloader initializes it will blink three times rapidly.
Further Arduino prepared chips supllied by Wulfden come with the sketch BlinkLED burnt in, so after the
initial bootloader blink and bootloader timeout, an LED so attached to Pin 13 will slowly blink on/off.
 An arduino Clone | 

8. In general, where instructions in Section 6 of this document disagree with the Modern Device
document, use the section 6 information/instructions.
9. The picture to the left represents the standard bread board configuration, using exactly
the parts contained in the kit; a 2x7 pin header is inserted into the component side and
soldered from the solder sde to the pair of GND and +5 volt buses associated with the ana-

log inputs. Likewise a 1x7 pin header is

inserted and soldered into A0 to A5 and
Aref. Then a 1x17 pin header is inserted
into the solder side and soldered to the
component side to cover Digital pins 0-15,
plus 2 GNDs and +5v. and a single 1x2 pin
header is also inserted from the solder
side and soldered from the component
side. This goes intp two holes adjacent
to the right hand ground of the 17 pin
row. The two pins are for GND and +5
and are aligned to pick power from the
breadboard power rails. The 17 pins plug
into the breadbaord in such away that
they leave three holes exposed for con-
nections.

10. Another way to construct the BBB would

be to proceed as above, except for the
las two headers. Instead of a 1x17 pin
header uses a 1x17 right angle socket
header, and leave the two pin header off
altogether. The proto board, the ubiqui-
tous Radio Shack 276-150 has a 17 pin
right angle header to mate to the BBB,
Power can be supplied via the power sup-
ply on the BBB or a source mounted on
the protobaard or from an FTDI USB
cable. The 4 pin socket header on the
proto board is for the P3 serial program-
ming adapter.
 | Wulfden F-Kit Basic Development Kit
11. In a different manner the board to the left was
constructed with a single 2 pin socket header in
the GND and +5 in the middle of the left edge
of the board. Then a single 1x7 pin socket header
in A0-A5 and Aref, and a 1x17 pin socket header
along the front. All three were inserted on the
componenet side and soldered on the solder side.
I fabricated a prototype pcbaord with matching
pin headers as shown in the upper half of the pho-
to. the 2x3 socket header mates to the In Sys-
tem Programming (ISP, sometimes called ICSP)
connector. This is used for nothing but picking up
the CPU RESET line. the daughter board (called
a “shield” in Arduino) is the inverted and placed
upon the CPU board as shown in the next photo-
graph.
 An arduino Clone | 
12. Yet another form this flexible baord can
take. I call this the Bare Bones Bootloader
Burner Board. Instead of a conventional
28 pin socket for the ATmega168, two
1x14 pin socket headers are substituted.
then an adapter baord was made to adapt
the wide spaced (0.6”) fat pins of a 3M/
Textool ZIF (zero insertion force) socket
to the narrow spacing (0.3”) of the CPU
socket. The following changes to the nor-
mal assembly were also made; (1) the 2x3
ISP pin header was made a right angle so
the connector from the AVRISP MKII
wouldn’t conflict with th eZIF socket. (2)
the red power LED is covered by the ZIF
socket so I added a Green LED that has
its own internal series limiting resistor. It
is soldered into one of the GND/+5v pairs
over by the analog inputs. (3) I added a
2x17 pin right angle socket header for the
digital pins. Since there is only one row of
holes. I clipped the top pins off so they
just barely rest on the solder mask when
the other row of pins are inserted to the
right depth. I soldered the front row of
pins in place then ran abare wire across
the top and soldered it to each pin and
grounded the wire. This way each digital
pin has a ground right above it. (4) I put
a red LED, also one with an internal series
limiting resistor into Digital 13. When the
AVRISP unit burns the flash memory it
blinks this LED - it makes a good progress
indicator.
 10 | Wulfden F-Kit Basic Development Kit

7 Modern Device Instructions for

the Bare Bones Board - Rev C.
(8/17/2007)
Bare Bones Board Arduino Parts List
Assembly Instructions, Rev. C Inductor
1 15 uH surface-mount inductor
Outline for TO-92 voltage regulator Shorting clip (on header Axial 1/4W Resistors
listed. (250mA). For more current, use pins) for selection of USB
a TO-220 regulator but be sure and TO-220 2 10k (brown - black - orange)
or External power here.
reverse the insertion direction. 1 1M (brown - black - green)
TO-92 Shorting clip (on header 1 1k (brown - black - red)
Use right-angle header pins) for selection of
pins here, if you want voltage regulator (5V) or Capacitors
cable to stick out External power here.
sideways, instead of up. (see text) 4 .1ufd (104) ceramic, 25 V
2 4.7-47 ufd tantalum or electrolytic
capacitors (polarized), 25V
Semiconductors
2 400x 1amp power diodes
1 L4931CZ50LDO 5V, low-dropout
voltage regulator, TO-92 package
optional - LM2937 500 mA LDO regulator
TO-220 package
1 3mm (T1) LED any color
1 Atmega168 28 pin DIP package
preprogrammed with bootloader
1 16 MHZ ceramic resonator with built-in
capacitors, three-terminal SIP package
Hardware
50 snap-off male header pins .100" centers,
or .100" femail headers as desired.
6 right-angle male-header pins .100" centers
1 momentary switch
observe notch on resonator
These header pins on bottom of board for convenient 1 28 pin (narrow .3") IC socket OR
28 pin DIP socket breadboard use. All others mounted on top.
and Atmega168 chip surface-mount 2, 14 pin DIP sockets
inductor For "shield" boards feel free to mount these pins on 2 .100" header 2 position shorting clip (shunt)
top of the board. Use female connectors if desired.
figure 1: BBB layout Also double-headed male connectors are available, 1 1.3mm power jack, Digikey CP-2519-ND
(Digikey S1031E-31-ND.)
FTDI TTL-232R programming cable FTDIchip.com
5 Volt - 1A power adapter (optional)
The Bare-Bones Board has been engineered to be a low-cost
All Electronics CAT# PS-504
easy-to-construct Arduino, specially aimed at students and
prototypers. The board plugs into a breadboard, and has
several convenient features that make it easy to use for both • The first component to deal with is the smallest, the 15 uH
beginning and advanced prototyping. surface-mount inductor, marked "150". This inductor
provides a small amount of analog (A/D) noise reduction,
Despite its title, the Bare-Bones Board includes all of the
it is recommended in the Atmega168 datasheet, but is not
functionality of the most robust Arduino boards, and even
included in other Arduino implementations. If you do not
some recommended analog noise-reducing components not
wish to deal with the small surface mount component you
found on any of the Arduino reference designs.
may just solder up (short circuit) the surface mount pads
The boards and kits, which have been engineered to be as where it was to be mounted.
flexible as possible for widely varied types of prototype
designs, can be built in an hour by a beginner at soldering, If you do decide to mount the surface-mount inductor follow
or in a half-hour by someone who has built a few of them the instructions on page_4.
before. • Solder in the resistors, diodes, small ceramic capacitors,
Only a low-wattage soldering iron (15 - 25 Watts), and solder LED, reset switch, and voltage regulator next.
is required. • The resistors and smaller capacitors have no polarity and
Assembly Instructions may be inserted in either direction.

Start assembling the board with the smallest, lowest profile • Make certain that polarized components, such as diodes,
components first. That way taller components will not get in LED, voltage regulator, and larger electrolytic caps are
the way when trying to install smaller components. Also when inserted in the correct direction. Note that the long lead on
parts are inserted, and the board is flipped over to solder, the LED is positive.
components will tend to stay in the board better, if similar, • Mount the two 47 uF electrolytic capacitors, carefully
low-profile components are inserted first. observing the polarities and orientation of each. The long
For beginners that have never done electrical soldering before leads on the capacitors are positive.
see the Soldering section before starting. There are a few tips • Insert the IC socket (not the chip) into the board, taking care
for multiple-unit "power builders" too. to align the notch with the notch on the board silkscreen.
 2
For larger and multi-pin components, such as the chip socket perform the following operation. Hold the chip exactly
and header pins, there is a little trick that may be helpful perpendicular to a table and press down until the all the legs
to get them mounted neatly. have a 90 degree angle to the chip top. Flip, repeat, and
Solder in one pin only, or in the case of the socket, two you're ready to put the chip into the socket.
diagonal corner pins. Then flip the board over to inspect it. • Next hook up a LED and a 1K series resistor on pin 13.
If the component is not mounted tightly down on the board, Boot up the Arduino application and try downloading the
simply put a little pressure on the component with your blinking light program. Push the reset button on the board
index finger while reheating the soldered pad(s) with the and click the download icon at about the same time.
soldering iron, this will get the part mounted down flush
before you solder in the other pins. • If your board doesn't seem to work, see the troubleshooting
guide on page 6.
• Solder in the power jack.
Powering the BBB Arduino.
• Solder in the header pins. The board is made to be easy to
customize for particular applications. The following There are two options for powering the Arduino Board.
instructions are for the most standard orientation for header The USB cable can supply 5 volts to the board. How much
pins, but feel free to mount (or omit them) as you wish. In current the FTDI 232R cable can provide is an open question.
some installations it may be more robust and reliable to The USB standard calls for available current to be controlled
solder wires directly to the board. by software and the cable's manufacturer quotes 50 mA as
the amount of available current. (This limit is from the
• The seventeen digital output header pins gets inserted into expected behavior of the USB interface and not any electrical
the bottom of the board and soldered on the top, as do the limit from the cable.)
two pins, at front right, that are designed to power the
breadboard. Mount these pins last after the others are mounted In practice, a Mac and a PC I tested were both able to
on top. provide 500 mA, which is as high as I went in my testing.
Since I can't get access to any of the software interaction, it
• All other header pins get inserted into the top of the board is impossible for me to know if the cable's software "asks"
and soldered on the bottom. Using right-angle header pins for higher current limits or the USB ports just generously
for the USB-to-Serial cable connector makes the cable provides more without being asked. I would guess the latter.
convenient to connect.
USB is a convenient option for powering your board
• Finally, mount the resonator (marked XTAL on board). It because it eliminates other wires and batteries and it should
can be inserted either way but it's a good idea to insert it be viable for many projects that only involve interfacing
with the label showing. sensors, lighting LED's, or communicating with a
• Hobbyists and prototypers often omit this step, but it's a laptop/desktop computer.
good idea to clean the solder flux off your board with a For circuit experiments and construction you are probably
toothbrush and isopropyl (not denatured) alcohol. Scrub and better off using a 5 - 9 volt power adapter. This will take the
rinse with clean alcohol until the board looks flux-free. Dry strain off your laptop battery and protect more expensive
it off a little with a paper towel or rag and have a good systems in the case of short circuits and the like. For powering
inspection of your solder joints, to make sure pins are not small DC motors or solenoids especially, you will be much
bridged (shorted) with solder, and that all the solder joints better off using an external power supply.
look shiny, smooth, and cover the pads completely.
Questionable solder joints may be fixed simply by reheating The board contains a 5 volt low-dropout regulator. In the
with the soldering iron. case of an accidental short circuit, the voltage regulator on
the board will limit the current draw to about 300 mA. This
• Add the shorting clip to the power selection header in the should protect the power supply although the regulator will
desired position, and the J1/J2 shunt (see below). get very hot. The tipoff to a short circuit will be the LED
Testing your BB Arduino pilot light going off, and of course, a hot regulator, if you put
• Put the USB / EXT shorting clip on the power selector pins. your finger on it.
Power up the board, either with the programming cable or J1 / J2 Shunt or jumper
an external supply and make sure that the pilot light goes J1 or J2 is an option that sets how the BB Arduino is
on. If not, disconnect the power right away, and consult the connected to the two breadboard bus power pins on the right
troubleshooting section. Do a check with a multimeter for side of the board.
5 volts at the power pins to the left end of the digital
breadboard pins. Use J1 in these cases:

• If all seems well, disconnect the power, and insert your J1 jumper is used to power for the breadboard power-
Atmega 168 chip into the socket, taking care to align the rail bus comes through the Arduino LDO voltage regulator.
notch on the chip with the notch on the socket and on the Use this if you want to power your breadboard from your
board silkscreen. Chips come from the factory with the legs Arduino adapter, and the adapter is between 5-9 volts. Most
splayed, and the chip will be much less fuss to insert if you users will probably want this option, unless you have DC
motors running on the breadboard.
 3

Bare-Bones Arduino module with header pins set up for breadboard use. There are
several options for the header pins depending on the project requirements.

Use J2 in these cases: If your BB Arduino is tethered to a laptop or desktop computer

J2 is used to connect power to (or from) the breadboard as an IO device you may just want to run off USB. In this case
power-rail bus, directly from the Arduino power jack. In most the low-dropout regulator is redundant and you could just solder
cases you probably don't want a higher voltage than 5 volts on a jumper from one outside pin to the other.
the breadboard power rail so use this option only with a regulated If you are powering the board from a 5 volt, regulated
5 V adapter such as the All Electronics unit in the parts list. adapter, such as the All Electronics model listed on the parts
J2 can also be used if you have a powered breadboard, with list, you could also leave out the regulator and one of the
regulated 5 volts available, and you want to run your BB Arduino electrolytic capacitors that are associated with the regulator.
from the breadboard rails. It is also possible to use J1 when The pilot light and its associated resistor is a useful feedback
powering the BBB off 5V breadboard rails - in that case, the signal, but if you are building a battery powered device which
regulator would not be in the circuit. requires minimal power draw, for example, leave out the LED
and add an LED (with series resistor) connected to an Arduino
digital pin and blink the LED every 3 or four seconds, to save
power.
Options, Parts You Perhaps Don't Need
Any of the header pins can be left out, or soldered on the
The Bare-Bones Arduino was engineered to top or bottom of the board, or can be replaced by female headers,
be a small, versatile prototyping board, so (for mating with shield boards, for example). One flexible option
jumpered depending on your circumstances, there may
voltage regulator might be to use longer, male, header pins that protrude both
be several parts you can do without. above, and below, the board. This would make it possible to
use your BB Arduino with either a breadboard, or a shield board.
See Digikey part # S1031E-36-ND for example.
You could even leave out the 16 Mhz resonator, and program
the Atmega168 chip to run on the internal RC oscillator, at 8
Mhz. This would require reprogramming the Atmega168 fuses.
This is not rocket science, but not for those impatient with trial
& error, in my experience, see
http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Learning/Atmega83-3V.
Please let us know if there are features you think would be
handy or should be built into the next version. Corrections and
suggestions for this documentation are also highly valued and
appreciated. Most will be implemented immediately.

A BBB pcb board shown actual size,

for comparison purposes. The production run boards
however, are white, not green.
 4
Inductor schematic symbol Capacitors
Capacitors are components that store electrical energy
(charge). There are several different technologies that
are used to construct capacitors. The BBB contains
Inductors (coils) act to oppose a change in current. In the BBB circuit ceramic capacitors, that are not polarized, and electrolytic
the inductor's role is to reduce fast-changing power-supply noise. capacitors, that are polarized, and must be inserted with
The 15 mh (millihenry) inductor is the only surface-mount component the correct orientation.
on the board. Here's how to mount it.
schematic symbol
(+)

104 Electrolytic capacitors are

soldering marked in a slightly confusing

47 uf 25 V
iron markings and manner. The negative side
color may vary of the capacitor is marked.
solder On circuit boards and
,1 ufd schematics the positive side
(104) negative is is always marked. The longer
Place the inductor on the pad, hold it down by laying an Exacto knife ceramic marked on lead on the component is
or needlenose pliers on top of it, and heat the pad, (do not touch the (not polarized) capacitor always positive however.
inductor with the soldeing iron). Solder will rapidly flow onto the pad body
and inductor, lift the soldering iron immediately. This will hold the positive lead
47 ufd
inductor down, touch the other pad for a second with some solder electrolytic cap.
is longer
and your soldering iron, and you're almost done. Just reheat the first (polarized)
side quickly to insure a good solder joint. LED
Don't worry if the inductor is not on perfectly straight, the electricity LED's are diodes which emit light. They are polarized like diodes so
can't tell the difference. Don't overheat it either, it's small and will insert them in the correct direction.
solder quickly. If it's really crooked, you can position it by quickly and
schematic symbol
alternately heating opposite ends and pushing gently with the soldering

anode cathode
positive lead
solder pool to short pads if not using inductor is longer

Resonator
If you don't want to fuss with the tiny inductor, just leave it out and
solder up the pads as shown above. No other Arduino boards include The 16 Mhz ceramic resonator acts as a calibrated oscillator for the
it although the Atmega 168 datasheet recommends it, and the reduction BBB. As you can see from the schematic, it contains a crystal element
in analog noise that it provides is fairly minor. and two small capacitors. It's symmetrical, so you can't put it in
backwards, but it is a good idea to put it in so that you can read the
label.
schematic symbol
16.00M
Resistors
1k (1000 ohms) brown-black-red
10k (10,000 Ω) brown-black-orange
1M (1,000,000 Ω) brown-black-green
schematic symbol Voltage Regulator
tolerance band: gold = 5% The voltage regulator is an integrated circuit which will limit higher
resistors are not polarized, meaning it doesn't matter input voltages to 5 volts. It will also limit the current flow in case of
which end goes where short circuits. The electronics industry calls the physical form an IC
is packaged in a "package" or "case", the actual IC is always a small
chip embedded somewhere in the plastic. The voltage regulator
provided may vary by number but is in a TO-92 case.
Diodes schematic symbol
If you need to have more regulated power, to power a lot of high
powered LED's on a breadboard, for example, then, your board will
anode cathode anode cathode accommodate a TO-220 package regulator, such as the LM2937
listed in the parts list, or the popular 7805. Just remember to insert
it backwards as shown in figure 1.
Diodes act as electrical "one-way" valves. Electricity flows in the
Make sure you get the TO-92 regulator inserted in the correct
direction of the arrow, but not the other way. They are polarized. Stripe
orientation. It is not symmetrical so match the part outline on the
is negative (cathode end). Think of the stripe on the diode as the
board with the regulator shape.
stripe in the schematic. Get the stripe oriented the correct way on the
board, or the project is almost guaranteed not to work.

TO-92 TO-220

typical 3 terminal regulator schematic symbol

5 - 9 volts In L4931CZ50 5 volts out

Prepare all the resistors and diodes for inserting into
pcb by bending their leads at right angles, adjacent to see particular device
datasheets for sizes of
the component body. capacitors
 5

USB EXT
+5V
G

AR
A5 FTDI TTL-232R cable
A4
A3 BARE-BONES
BOARD Rev. C

10 PWM
A2

11 PWM
3 PWM

5 PWM
6 PWM

9 PWM
0 RX
1 TX
A1
+5V

12
13
G

G
2

7
8
A0

+5V
TX
RX
Bare-Bones Board

Programming cable connections between a BBB and a FTDI TTL-232R

USB to TTL serial cable.

Please note that the TX and RX labels refer to the cable's labeling, not the
chip's. The TX label at the programming connector is electrically connected
to the Arduino's RX pin (0) and the cable's RX pin is connected to the
Arduino's TX pin.

An Arduino Board set up on a solderdless breadboard

with six LED's ready for dimming with the PWM outputs.
ICSP header +5 V
Hot glue over solder
joints, for robust sensors, 1 2
six places GND Power Jack
1.3mm 3 4
center positive 5 6
OR 16 Mhz
SIG +5 -12V resonator
breadboard 19
D13
9
power-rail 18
D12
+5V bus pins 1M
GND 17
D11
GND
J2 10 16
D10

DIGITAL IN/OUT
Resistor to match D9
photoresistor under AVCC 15
+5V J1 .1 20 14 D8
"middle" illumination level 15
ufd D7

ATMEGA8 or ATMEGA168
LDO uH 13
VCC
12 D6
V.R. 7 D5
Power Select

11
USB EXT

Radio Shack 6 D4
Shielded Audio Cable 1k D3
5
47 .1 47 D2
ufd ufd ufd 4
10k .1ufd D1
Hookups for sensors. Resistive sensors 3
D0
LED 2
are shown but Arduino analog inputs can LED
1 reset
be used with any sensor designed for a GND
Shield GND A5
FTDI TTL-232R

8 28

ANALOG INS
voltage output. CTS# GND
cable port

Note: Wires not RESET 22 27

A4
in same order as VCC A3
26
other end TXD 10k A2
RXD 25
Digikey #S7001-ND 24
A1
RTS#
3 position .1" female 23 A0
connector. AREF
21
Bare-Bones Board Schematic
GND
+5V
SIGNAL

Signal to A0 to A5 .1ufd
analog inputs Released under Creative Commons ShareAlike License 3.0
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/
Bare-Bones Board Arduino Schematic

Arduino Pins Arduino Pins

digital pins analog inputs
(PCINT14/RESET) PC6 1 28 C5 (ADC5/SCL/PCINT13) analog input 5
digital pin 0 (RX) (PCINT16/RXD) PD0 2 27 PC4 (ADC4/SDA/PCINT12) analog input 4
digital pin 1 (TX) (PCINT17/TXD) PD1 3 26 PC3 (ADC3/PCINT11) analog input 3
digital pin 2 (INT0) (PCINT18/INT0) PD2 4 25 PC2 (ADC2/PCINT10) analog input 2
d.p. 3 (INT1, PWM) (PCINT19/OC2B/INT1) PD3 5 24 PC1 (ADC1/PCINT9) analog input 1
Atmega 168

digital pin 4 (PCINT20/XCK/T0) PD4 6 23 PC0 (ADC0/PCINT8) analog input 0

VCC 7 22 GND
GND 8 21 AREF
(PCINT6/XTAL1/TOSC1) 9 20 PB6 AVCC
(PCINT7/XTAL2/TOSC2) PB7 10 19 PB5 (SCK/PCINT5) digital pin 13 (LED)
digital pin 5 (PWM) (PCINT21/OC0B/T1) PD5 11 18 PB4 (MISO/PCINT4) digital pin 12
digital pin 6 (PWM) (PCINT22/OC0A/AIN0) PD6 12 17 PB3 (MOSI/OC2A/PCINT3) digital pin 11 (PWM)
digital pin 7 (PCINT23/AIN1) PD7 13 16 PB2 (SS/OC1B/PCINT2) digital pin 10 (PWM)
digital pin 8 (PCINT0/CLKO/ICP1) PB0 14 15 PB1 (OC1A/PCINT1) digital pin 9 (PWM)

Pin mapping of the Atmega168 chip to the Arduino Board

 6
Troubleshooting Arduino is an open-source hardware and software initiative
Symptom: No pilot light. closely related to the Wiring and Processing open-source
initiatives.
Causes:
LED in backwards Arduino Home - http://arduino.cc
electrolytic capacitor in backwards Wiring Home - http://wiring.org.co/
voltage regulator in backwards Processing Home - http://processing.org/
no power select shunt (shorting clip)
no power at external jack - check power adapter & polarity The Bare-Bones Board is an open-source hardware project
bad solder connection - check power at power jack & of Paul Badger and Modern Device Company
power-select pins moderndevice.com

diode in backwards (disconnect power supply right away) distributed under Creative Commons ShareAlike License 3.0
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/
power supply connections reversed - check external supply
with a multimeter

Procedure: check for 5 volts at power buses: at USB port, at

power jack, near analog pins, at pins 7&8 of the Atmega168
If 5V is found at power bus pins, LED is in backwards or
poor solder joint. If low or incorrect voltage, check diodes,
voltage regulator, solder joints, power supply
Symptom: Pilot light on but program won't download to
board

Hardware Causes:
Atmega168 in backwards or not seated properly (check for
pins that have "escaped the socket"
Atmega168 not programmed with bootloader
bad cable
drivers not installed on PC - Check Arduino->Tools->Serial
Port
solder joint at cable connector or pins 2& 3 (check for shorts
or bad (solder joints) on all pins, reheat all solder joints
wrong resonator value
wrong resistor across resonator (1M)
Procedure: if you have an oscilloscope, check for signals
across resonator pins and on RX line during download.

Software/PC side causes:

check for FTDI drivers installed (if using USB cable)
check for proper chip (Atmega168) selected in
Arduino->Tools->Microcontroller->Atmega168
click RESET switch simultaneously with download attempt.

General "Cure-Alls":
check orientation on all polarized parts, V.R., caps, diodes,
V.R., socket and chip.
check values of resistors
Reheat all solder pads on bottom of board, look for bridges
(shorts) on chip pins
clean PCB with toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol
 7
Electrical Soldering for Beginners It is a good idea to clean the solder flux off your board
Use a high-quality soldering iron with the sharpest point with a toothbrush and isopropyl (not denatured) alcohol, when
you can find. It should be rated between 15 and 25 watts. you are done with your board. Most fluxes when left on the
board for extended periods of time, will corrode pcb pads and
Keep the soldering iron tinned (coated with solder) at all traces. Additionally, fluxes are not perfect insulators, so can
times. The tip should look slivery and shiny. It is important to affect the electrical operation of your circuit.
do this as soon as a new soldering iron gets hot.
Splash a little alcohol on the board and scrub with a
Wipe your soldering iron tip off on a wet sponge, or a copper toothbrush. Rinse with clean alcohol and repeat until the board
"scrubbie", to keep it clean and shiny. Do this whenever the tip looks flux-free. Dry it off a little with a paper towel or rag and
stops looking shiny or has too much solder buildup on it. have a good inspection of your solder joints, to make sure pins
Use either leaded or "no-lead" solder but be aware no-lead are not bridged (shorted) with solder, and that all the solder
solder is a little harder to use for beginners, and makes solder joints look shiny, smooth, and cover the pads completely.
joints that are slightly less shiny than leaded solder. Questionable solder joints may be fixed simply by reheating
with the soldering iron.
Work in a room with some ventilation. There is a tiny bit
of lead in solder fumes but the flux fumes are more of a health- Power Soldering for Multiple-Kit Builders: or How to put
hazard than the lead. Jameco sells a nice soldering iron / carbon together 10 BBB kits on Saturday and still have time to meet
filter combination for under $100. your friends.
Heat the pad for about a second, then apply solder to the Additional items required: Piece of foam rubber - antistatic
heated pad or leads, not the soldering iron. After the solder melts pink foam is ideal, small alligator clips.
and "grabs" the pad, continue heating for another second. We insert parts in groups and don't bend any leads to hold parts
If you haven't gotten the solder to grab after about 4 seconds in. Once the board is flipped for soldering, the foam holds the
let the joint cool down before trying again. Too much heat can components agains the board. We put the boards together in
ruin electronic components, but most beginners err on the side 4 steps.
of too little heat ("cold" solder joints). If the solder joint looks Step 1: mount the inductor, covered on page 4. You can get it
lumpy, or if the solder doesn't completely cover the pad, the straight by quickly and alternately heating either end and gently
solder joint needs more heat. Just reheat it again until you see moving it.
the flux around it "simmer" a bit, and the solder grabs the pad
and smoothes out. Step 2: Insert the resistors, diodes, reset switch, LED and small
(104) caps. Don't bend the leads. Cover the parts with the foam
and flip the whole board, then solder it. If you are worried that
a part may not be seated down against the board apply some
pressure to the board while heating one pin.
Step 3: Cut the leads from the last step. Insert all the remaining
parts except the 17 pin header and 2 pin header. If you have
alligator clips, clip the programming header and the power jack
lead soldering iron to the board with them, you could also try this on the other
headers if you have a lot of clips handy - the small ones are
better .
Put the foam on top of the board and flip the whole mess so
pad
foam is now on bottom and board is upside down. Tack down
solder one pin only on headers and socket. Solder in all pins on
electrolytic caps, resonator and parts held in with clips. (You
could also inspect them first for correct fit) Flip the board to
inspect "fit" on headers and socket and adjust by heating with
pressure from index finger. A thimble might be useful if you
haven't burned out all the nerves in your index finger soldering,
as we have. Flip and finish soldering.
Step 2: Insert the 17 pin and 2 pin header on bottom. Tack,
inspect, straighten if necessary and solder.
cold solder joint good solder joint
(not enough heat)
• smooth meniscus
• shiny
• covers pad
 An arduino Clone | 11

8 Diecimilia Hack to the BBB

Implementing Autoreset for
Arduino-0009 (09/08/2007)
Modern Device Company 09/15/2007 11:46 PM

Bare Bones Board upgrade to "Diecimila-like" software reset capability

The new Arduino 0009 revision introduced software reset of the microcontroller. This means that you don't have to push the
reset button on every download. Just click the download button in the IDE and it all happens for you. You can also burn the
new bootloader onto your chip and get rid of the 10 second wait that it takes for a sketch to start, after downloading or
resetting. Even without the Diecimila bootloader however, you get the freedom from having to mess with the reset button. So
no more clicking the reset button.

The hack

This one is really simple. You have to obtain a .1uf capacitor

from Radio Shack or another source. If you're sending chips
back I'll be glad to send you as many as you need for free.
The voltage rating should be 10 volts or higher. Anything
you can find at Radio Shack will work fine.

Solder one end to the RTS pin, which is the rightmost pin in
the photo.

This pioneering model was done by my friend and colleague

Brian Riley of wulfden.org who also generously took the
photos. It was late at night and his new puppy was peeing
on his shoe so the soldering could have been a little neater.

The other end goes to the nearest corner of the switch as

shown. That's it. FINI. You have autoreset, if you are using
Arduino 0009.

The next step, if you want to get rid of the wait, is to send
back your chips or reprogram them yourselves. If you are
doing a lot of Bare-Bones work, this might be the time to
purchase a AVRISPmkII, so you can burn your own chips.
They're about $40 from Digikey.

I'll be happy to reprogram any of the chips I've sold in the Windows Users:
last year with the new bootloader. Just send them in with
You may need to set a parameter with your serial port to get
postage for me to get them back to you. Make sure you
the serial port to produce the required signal.
send them in foam or in a chip tube so they won't be
harmed in the mail. Device Manager - USB Serial Port - Port Settings - Advanced
button - Set RTS On Close

http://www.moderndevice.com/Diec_Hack.html Page 1 of 2
 The Shoppe at Wulfden
<http://www.wulfden.org>