Textile Engineering
Textile Engineering
TEXTILE ENGINEERING
MEMBERS:
Ana Gabriela Castro Castro
Mariam Ramirez Vanegas
Maria Elena
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INDEX
Introduction.................................................................3
What is an engineer?
Textile
Evolution of the Machine
Textile
Fabrics Y
Procedures........................................................................................................ 6
How it is made
Screen.........................................14
Textile finishes..............................................................................14
Types Of
Canvas.................................................................10
Conclusion....................................................................13
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Introduction
This research was prepared with the aim of having each person who reads it
have knowledge of what the textile industry is, in which every point is relevant in the
design world, in which every designer must have knowledge of the following
such as: textile machinery in which it is important to know the evolution of these
machines which date back to the 8th century, as well as the procedures of the
fabrics from cultivation to finishing, as well as the chemical, physical and
mechanics.
Likewise, one must take into account the role played by the textile engineer.
a textile engineer, on the other hand, is involved in the processes of threads and what they are made of
facts, another point that must be taken into account as well as dyeing and finishing
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What is a textile engineer?
Textile engineering is one of the popular disciplines in the fields of
engineering. It is a great field of research in technology. Textile engineering revolves
around the line of the clothing industry, colors and fabrics engineering
Textile is the science that deals with all the activities and methods that are
involved in the textile manufacturing process
Textile engineering technology deals with the application of principles
scientists and engineers for the design and control of all aspects of the
fiber processes, textiles, and clothing, their products and machinery. These include
natural materials and man-made materials, interaction of materials with machines,
safety and health, energy conservation and waste and pollution control.
There is a wide field of research in this area as the industry demands.
the need to improve currently available products and develop others
new.
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awards to those who invent a mechanism that allows for the production of a lot of thread
cotton in a short time. The first mechanical spinning machine was invented in 1764,
Heargraves: the spinning jenny. It was made up of a mechanism powered
manually that was neither very large nor very expensive. The first spinning-jennies
that operated in Great Britain only had eight spindles. The woman who spun at
I could only move a spindle, to operate a spinning jenny it was enough just to work.
by a single man assisted by three or four children.
WATER FRAME: In 1769, Arkwright introduced a new type of spinning machine.
mechanics: the water-frame. The thread produced by this machine was of higher quality than the
of the spinning jenny: it was finer and more durable. But the water-frame was a mechanism
big and heavy that a man could no longer move. To operate the water-frame one
started by using the hydraulic power of rivers, but from 1785, it was already
he began to apply the steam engine. Another problem posed by the water-frame.
it was its price: much higher than that of previous mechanisms.
COTTON TEXTILE FACTORIES: By the year 1800, they were working in the
textile cotton factories in Great Britain about 100,000 people in spinning and
250,000 in the fabrics. In the early 19th century, 40 percent of the farms
English were fabrics.
JACQUARD: In 1804 in France, the first Jacquard machine appeared.
(loom).
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supremacy of the cotton industry over the wool industry, decrease in the price of
fabrics, etc.
PROCEDURES OF
COTTON
CULTIVATION AND HARVEST
remove
The ginning is the process of separating pure cotton from the seed that is still
it is inside the harvested cotton. Often located near the harvest site,
Cotton gins are large machines that use a combination of
circular saws and filters to extract all the cotton at one end, while filtering the
seeds and unwanted plant material.
The woven cotton fabric in its loom state not only contains impurities,
including the size of the warp, but requires additional treatment for
to develop all its textile potential. Furthermore, it can receive considerable value.
added when applying one or more finishing processes
WASHED
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The washing is a chemical washing process carried out on cotton fabric.
to eliminate natural wax and non-fibrous impurities (for example, the remains of
fragments of seeds) from the fibers and any dirt or added grime. The
Washing is generally done in iron containers called kiers. The fabric is
boil in an alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty acids (saponification).
WHITENING:
Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloring and impurities.
residuals of cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is determined by the
whiteness and the required absorbency. Cotton, which is a plant fiber, is
It will be whitened using an oxidizing agent, such as diluted sodium hypochlorite or peroxide.
of diluted hydrogen. If the fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then they are
acceptable lower levels of bleaching, for example. However, for
white bed covers and medical applications, the highest levels of
whiteness and absorbency are essential.
MERCERIZING:
Another possibility is mercerization during which the fabric is treated with a
caustic soda solution to cause the swelling of the fibers. This results in
resulted in improved brightness, resistance, and affinity of the dye. The cotton is
mercerize under tension and all the alkali must be washed away before the tension is released or
the contraction occurs. Mercerization can take place directly in a
gray cloth or after the
The singeing is designed to burn the fibers on the surface of the fabric
to produce softness. The fabric goes over the brushes to raise the fibers, then
pass over a plate heated by gas flames.
LIFTING:
Another finishing process is increasing. During the lifting, the surface
the fabric is treated with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibers, imparting
In this way, fuzziness, softness, and warmth, like in flannel.
CALENDARIZING:
Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the fabric is
passes between heated rollers to generate smooth, polished, or embossed effects
depending on the surface properties of the roller and the relative speeds.
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CONTRACTION:
Finally, mechanical contraction (sometimes referred to as sanforization), due to the
that the fabric is forced to shrink both widthwise and/or lengthwise, creates a fabric
in which any residual tendency to contract after subsequent washing is
minimum.
DYE:
Finally, cotton is an absorbent fiber that responds easily to the
coloration processes. Dyeing, for example, is commonly carried out with a
anionic direct dye by completely immersing the fabric (or thread) in a bath of
aqueous dye according to a prescribed procedure. To improve the fastness
to washing, to rubbing and to light, other dyes such as vats are commonly used
and reagents. These require more complex chemistry during processing and,
therefore, they are more expensive to apply.
3. HILO
Once the clean cotton is ready to be turned into fabric, it is placed
in the spinning process. The huge machines, which can process up to 100 pounds
(45 kilos) of cotton per hour, they take the fluffy cotton fiber and spin it,
turning it into a thread. These machines spin the thread until it has a density.
of appropriate threads, which gives it a suitable thickness.
4. WEAVING
The cotton thread then goes through the weaving process. This is the process of
take cotton thread and intertwine it in a horizontal (warp) and vertical pattern
(fabric), so that the thread becomes what we know as cloth. The looms
huge machines can produce piles of cotton fabric relatively
the same methods that the ancient weavers with wooden looms could perform.
5. TINTURE
Finally, the cotton fabric is dyed. This is not always done, especially
if the cotton is white, but if you want the cotton fabric to be a color
different, it will then be treated with dyes to alter its appearance. The
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Dyes can also be used in the thread that will then create a pattern when it is
cloth in cotton, but the dyeing process is a matter that is left in the hands
from the manufacturer.
LANA
Washing with water and ecological soap and drying: Washing is carried out
Thoroughly wash the wool with hot water, extracting all organic residues that are
they gradually attach to it throughout the life of the sheep. Then it is rinsed with cold water and
It is left to dry on a flat surface in the sun or near the heat of the kitchen or
stove.
Wool spinning: It consists of twisting the fibers of carded wool until obtaining
a thread of the desired thickness. Then the spun wool is wound into equal turns to create
a skein, which is washed again with soap and water to remove all kinds of
waste that is still present in it.
Dyeing of the wool: The plant product from which it is desired to obtain the
dye for coloring wool, which is boiled in water until it releases the color.
The wet wool is added in a knitted manner and, finally, after a period of
cooking, a substance is added that fixes the color; This substance can be salt,
vinegar, flint stone or copper sulfate.
SILK
The process of silk extraction is fundamentally manual, and the spinning and
Textile transformation can be done industrially or artisanally. The artisan process
to obtain a piece of silk fabric involves approximately twelve steps, from
the most important ones listed here:
Extraction. From the tenth day of the cocooning, the framework of leaves is dismantled
each cocoon is separated, removing the fluff and impurities. As the chrysalis continues
alive if it 'drowns' with steam or hot air (traditionally a sheet in the sun), and if it is
It is necessary to proceed with the drying and selection of the cocoons for sale or spinning.
At this point, the work of the farmers ends.
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Spinning or 'drawn out'. This activity marks the beginning of the work in the textile industry or of
silk artisan. To unspool the cocoon, which can have between 800 and 1,500 meters of
Hilo is cooked in a copper boiler with water at a temperature of 80 to 100 degrees.
centigrade, so that it stays clean from grease loosen the silk thread, moment when
the craftsman unravels them with a brush to pass them to a manual lathe that goes
forming skeins. The simultaneous winding of several cocoons is called raw or
in a tangle
Pairing. The skeins are placed on the large reel, and from there to the winding (lathe)
smaller) with 2 or 4 wheels depending on the number of strands that are desired to be obtained,
until the barrels. At this moment, a spindle is introduced into the barrel that is rotated to
form a single thread of greater consistency with the 2 or 4 strands.
To avoid the roughness of the silk and to prevent it from twisting more, it is moistened.
fibers. Finally, skeins are obtained.
Stew. The skeins are boiled and bleached with water and soap to remove them
roughness due to sericin, removing them so that they whiten evenly. They
They are rinsed with water and dried in the sun.
Dyeing. At this moment, one can proceed to dye the silk with natural dyes or
leave it in its original color (white, yellow, green, or pale pink).
Braided. Still in skeins, the silk returns to the looms to make the warp.
Fabric. The braid obtained goes to the loom where the weaving begins.
LINEN
Sown
The right time to plant flax depends on the type of climate. In Prada, it
it seemed at the end of April or the beginning of May, generally in a
irrigated land where little grass grows, tilling and cleaning the land, removing
the herbs and impurities before sowing the seed that is broadcast
The only care it required during the plant's growth was to remove the weeds.
weeds that could be growing, a process called 'weeding'
At the end of July or the beginning of August, when it throws away the 'bagasse' and turns color.
yellow is the time to pull it out by the root. This is done by hand and with care.
not to lose the root, hitting the plant against the leg to remove the dirt.
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Next, it is gathered into bundles called 'empozadoiros' to take home and
"I speak of it again." This task was done in the era when rye was threshed, since in this...
at the moment it was 'covered' (coated with the 'manure' of the cows) and it was easier
collect the seeds. In some cases, this was also done in the ground where it was.
sown.
The "ripping" was done to separate the seed from the plant by passing it through.
the teeth of an instrument called 'ripo'.
The seed that is removed is left to dry in the sun for a few days so that the 'bagaña' opens.
and be able to extract the 'linaza' that is stored for various uses, the main one being to use it.
as seed for the following year. But at that time it also had a use.
medicinal in the form of ointment or oil, very useful for treating burns.
Depressed
Drying
Afterwards, it is washed and spread out in a field, where it can get sunlight.
permanently, turning it occasionally, so it dries well. Once
it is harvested well dry, making "móllos" (three bundles or "empozadoiros" together).
Mazado
For this task, it is essential that the linen is warm, for that the 'móllos',
completely dry, they spread one by one, for a few hours in a sunny field,
until they are very hot.
After this time, it is collected and placed in the 'mazadoiro' to be beaten, but it
What is the 'mallet' used for, a thick rectangular piece of wood, one of whose faces
It has longitudinal grooves and features a narrower part in a way
mango to grab.
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In this task, the people of the town shared space and time. They used
like 'mills' stones or slabs that people used for the rest of the year to
to sit and chat, they were a gathering place.
A very important place was also in the Field, at the beginning of the path of the Pacio,
where they were used
the stairs that lead up to the Church and the stone that is next to it.
The "mazado" was a joint task, as although each one processed their own flax, they tried to
to all meet to make the work more bearable by chatting about daily things
and even singing. If someone finished early, they helped the others without any type of
interest.
The swordfish catch was done individually or among several nearby neighbors, using the
the lower parts of the houses for that purpose, and if the weather was good, they would 'spade' underneath the
runners.
Restrained
Yarn
Once the "restrelado" is completed, it is necessary to spin the linen; for this we use the spinning wheel and the spindle.
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The spindle is a rod, generally made of hazel. About 25 cm from the upper end.
a wooden bump called 'roquil' is placed, where later the
a linen skein, which will be tied with the card, a strip of leather that holds the end of the
spindle.
The use is a small piece of wood that resembles an elongated spinning top.
To spin, we place the spinning wheel around the waist, once we wrap the tow around the
thicker part of the apparatus and we put the card, so that the material does not move.
We hold the spindle with one hand, pulling the linen with the other hand, which having
a texture similar to that of cotton is easy to transform into threads, which go
getting caught on the spindle, which twists and completely crafts them, thanks to
the skill of the person who makes it spin. When the spindle is full, the thread is removed from
the narrow part and thus it becomes a 'mazaroca'.
Saddled
The next step is the shaping, which is done with the shaper to give the flax its form.
of tangles (skein). With several 'ears' enmeshed, a skein is made. It
join the thread of 'mazarocas' by putting it in the sarillo, a wooden device made of
four spinning spindles, in which the thread gets tangled up to form a skein.
Clareo
The penultimate process, the clarification. The skeins are placed in a container with water and
oak wood ash (which was abundant in Prada and the area), hanging from a bar
that goes through it, and boiling for two hours. After that, they need to be cleared for
three or four days exposing them to the sun during which the skeins get wet
with a watering can, so that the water falls scattered and they gradually lighten up.
When we see that the brown color of the flax throughout the process becomes
white, we collect them, we pass them through water in a laundry and we scrub them,
extending them along a stick and placing them in the sun to dry.
For the making of some garments, colored linen was used, the most common was the
brown called 'caparrosa' and although it could be dyed at home, the most usual thing was
send it to Astorga (León) so they could dye it.
Fabric (making balls): The final process that the thread undergoes is to put it into
the reeler, a device similar to the 'sarillo' but positioned horizontally, with the intention
to unwind the skeins, to make the balls that are taken to the loom to
transform them into the fabric.
HOW A FABRIC IS MADE
The fabric is made woven, braided or felt type. The most natural fibers
used to make fabric are: linen, wool, cotton, and silk. The most commonly used synthetic is
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the polyester. The fibers are transformed into thread (they are spun), rolled into cones, which then
They are located next to the loom to weave the fabric.
THE YARN:
To obtain the yarn, the fibers of the material are twisted together.
manual or using a spindle. This twisting produces chains of short fibers that
together they form a single body. The force with which they twist determines the
characteristics of the fabric obtained. With little twist, a fabric is achieved.
smooth surface. High twisting produces hard, abrasion-resistant fabrics.
Synthetic fibers are converted into thread in the same way as natural ones.
THE LOOM:
To weave fabric, a loom and spools of thread in the desired colors are required.
incorporate into the fabric. The loom is a wooden frame (frame) that allows you to secure a
set of parallel strands arranged vertically (lengthwise), which is defined
like the warp of the fabric. To begin the actual weaving, threads are intertwined.
horizontals (across), referred to as: fabric weave. The number of threads per
square centimeter used in the manufacturing process determines the type and weight of
the fabric.
TEXTILE FINISHES
At this stage, the final touches are given to the fabric, and durability can be divided into:
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renewable finish: they can be renewed at home or at a professional service
dry cleaner
There are a series of general finishes that are applied to the fabric.
they add up the acidic and aesthetic finishes.
General finishes
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Acidic and aesthetic finishes
In addition to dyeing and printing, the fabric is also treated with other finishes to improve
its appearance and attributes: a certain softness, hand with finish, siliconized (silky)
and that the fabric is disassembled), with drape or without drape, etc.
Silicone finish: The use of silicones as a textile finish allows for enhancement and/or
modify the final quality of textile articles. Silicones can be applied to
the fabrics in two different forms: as emulsions and micro-emulsions.
Permanent pressing: It enhances wrinkle resistance in fabrics such as
cotton or linen, which do not have the elasticity of wool or silk. It can grant
also permanent pleats.
Starch: Fabrics can also be treated with a layer of starch, which is a
preparation that the tissues undergo to have greater consistency or rigidity,
and to improve their presentation or add some additional property to them.
Finished by hand: A fundamental distinction made in fabrics refers to the
sensation that they produce from the sensory, mainly if we want the fabric
have a cold hand or a warm hand. The ideal finish for each fabric has a lot to do with
with the use that will be given to the garment to be made
Waterproof or Teflon finish: Repels water but if one seeks to achieve a
wear like a raincoat specifically for use in case of rain is required
also a special weave, that the fiber repels water and that the fabric is suitable, the
Open fabrics cannot be completely waterproofed.
It is clear that the advancements available to us in this area are numerous and can
being decisive in the commercial aspect, it is important to seek advice to use them in the
better way in the textile process.
TYPES OF SCREENS
Acetate: Artificial fabric with the appearance of silk, made with acetate fiber threads.
of cellulose. It does not shrink, does not fade, does not wrinkle.
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Overcoat: Sharp finish, dense fabric, durable, resistant to wear. Difficult to
Iron, shines with use.
Gas: Semi-transparent and lightweight.
Denim: Blue, brown or dark gray, high-twist fabric, for work clothes. Thick,
thin and raw.
Nylon: A fabric made of synthetic material that is resistant to abrasion and the action of chemicals. It is
elastic, easy to wash, with a shiny appearance. It easily recovers its shape, it is not
absorbent, dries quickly and accepts some types of dyeing
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COMPOSITION AND STRUCTURE OF THE GENRES:
Everyone is based on two types of fibers: natural and artificial.
natural fibers come from plants or animals; this group includes wool, silk, and linen.
Artificial fibers are produced through chemical processes; they include polyester, nylon.
and the acetate.
The combination of natural and artificial fibers produces mixed fibers that
They offer the best qualities of both. There is a very large variety of genres.
made with mixed fibers and each of them behaves differently.
Genres are also classified by the method used for their production.
All fabrics are woven, knitted or non-woven.
The most common are plain fabrics like muslin, poplin, and taffeta.
The twill and the trench coat are woven diagonally. The cotton satin is a fabric of
raso and knit fabrics also have different structures. The knit or jersey,
It is an example of a plain fabric. Felt is an example of a non-woven fabric.
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CONCLUSION
To conclude, it is taken into account that the textile engineer is the one who takes care of
study, planning, project and management of workshops and factories aimed at
industrialization and processing of fibers, yarns and fabrics, hygiene, safety
industrial and pollution related to textile facilities and machinery in
all its branches.
On the other hand. This is the evolution of machines in which in the 18th century the
the manufacturing of fabrics absorbed the most labor. The preparation of yarn,
through the spindle and the wheel, and the weaving, done with hand looms, required a lot of
working hours to produce a piece of fabric. Currently, the progress of the
technology has helped the textile industry by incorporating synthetic fabrics, facilitating the
material transportation, creating new machines with computer control for
the efficiency, optimizing raw materials and production time, as well as the progress of
studies for the specialization of individuals in fashion and textile design.
Likewise, to obtain a garment one must go through many processes.
for example: cotton has to be grown, then cleaned, passed through machines and
chemicals, then comes dyeing, printing, and finishing until reaching spinning that
Then it goes to the loom; the same is done with wool and linen.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
https://micarrerauniversitaria.com/c-engineering/textile-engineering/
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