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TE-3204: Apparel Manufacturing Process Lab
EXPERIMENT 2
Experiment Perform pattern making: topside and underside of a basic woven
Name: trouser
Experiment 02
Number:
Experiment June 30, 2022
Date:
Learning At the end of the Experiment, students should be able to:
Outcome: 1. To know which measurements are required to produce a
particular pattern of Trousers
2. To know about grain line
3. To draft the ‘form’ block pattern of classic/basic woven
trouser.
4. To Produce block pattern of topside and underside of a
classic/basic woven trouser.
Introduction:
A block is a foundation pattern constructed to fit a specific figure. A block can be drafted to fit
an individual figure using personal measurements. The block is constructed to a set of standard
measurements for a particular size. It is used as a basis for interpreting a design and producing
a finished pattern.
Types of blocks: 2 types.
i) The ‘flat’ blocks: ‘Flat’ cutting is used for easy fitting garments and garments in
stretch fabrics. It predominates in areas such as sportswear, nightwear, weatherwear
and workwear.
ii) The ‘form’ blocks: Classic formal wear is based on ‘form’ cutting. It relies not only
on fitting the body shape, the pattern shape is also a reflection of the particular
garment's heritage, for example, the man's classic suit or the classic trouser.
Special Note: Most trousers sit 4cm below the natural waistline, therefore:
1. For basic trousers use the trouser waist measurement.
2. For trousers that sit high on the natural waist, use the waist measurement and add 5cm
to body rise measurement.
3. For trousers that sit well below the waistline see later.
Tools/ Equipment • Colored Pencils and pen
/Materials: • Ruler
• Hip curve rule
• Vary form curve rule
• French curve rule
• Sleigh curve rule
• Square/ Triangle
• Magic mend scotch tape
• Notcher
• Tracing wheels
• Scissor
• Stanley knife
• Tailor's chalk
• Toile fabrics Calico
Pattern instructions: The following instructions should be marked on patterns. Those
marked with an asterisk(symbol) are sometimes marked on an
accompanying technical data sheet instead of the pattern.
1. 1. The name of each piece.
2. 2. Pattern size.
3. 3. Centre back or centre front.
4. 4. Fold lines (these are often marked by a fold symbol).
5. 5. Balance marks (these are matching points marked by a
notch).
6. 6. Grain lines (these are usually marked by arrow lines).
7. 7. Construction marks (these include darts, buttonholes,
pocket placings, pleats. These lines are
8. often marked by notches or punch holes).
9. 8. *Seam allowances (1 cm).
10. 9. *The number of pieces to be cut (state if it is a single
piece or a paired pattern piece.
11.
Measurement Seat: 102 cm
Required to Draft the Trouser Waist: 86 cm
Block Pattern Body Rise: 28 cm
Inside Leg Measurement: 81 cm
Trouser Bottom width: 25 cm
Waist Band depth: 4 cm
Note: Plus or Minus the measurement with your pant size
Methodology:
1 cm seam allowance is included in the block there is no hem allowance.
Topside:
Square down and across from 0
0-1 body rise + 1 cm minus waistband depth; square across
1-2 inside leg measurement; square across
2-3 ½ measurement of 1-2 plus 5 cm; square across
1-4 ¼ body rise measurement; square across
1-5 1/12 seat measurement plus 1.5 cm; square up to 6 on seat line, 7 on waistline
6-8 ¼ seat measurement plus 2 cm
5-9 1/16 seat measurement plus 0.5 cm
7-10 1 cm
Draw in front curve 9, 6, 10 as shown in diagram.
10-11 ¼ trouser waist plus 2.5 cm
2-12 ½ bottom width
2-13 ½ bottom width
Square from 12 and 13 to 14 and 15 at knee line
Draw outside seam through point 11, 8, 14, 12.Curve hipline outwards 0.5 cm
8-14 inwards 0.5 cm
Draw inside seam through point 9, 15, 13. Curve 9-15 inwards 1 cm.
Underside:
5-16 ¼ measurement 1-5 square up to 17 on the seat line and 18 on the waistline.
19 Midway between 16-18
18-20 2 cm
20-21 1 cm
9-22 ½ measurement 5-9 plus 0.5 cm
22-23 0.5 cm
Draw back fork 23,19,21 as shown in diagram.
21-24 ¼ trouser waist plus 4.5 cm
25 Midway between 21 and 24; square down from this line. Construct a dart on this line
12 cm long, 2.5 cm wide
25-D 6 cm
D is the center point of the back pocket mouth (width 14 cm)
17-26 ¼ seat measurement plus 3 cm
12-27 2 cm
13-28 2 cm
14-29 2 cm
15-30 2 cm
Draw outside seam through point 24, 26, 29, 27.
Curve hem line of trousers down 1 cm as diagram.
Conclusion:
