Development Team

Principal Investigator Prof. Farhan J Ahmad

Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi

Dr. Vijaya Khader

Former Dean, Acharya N G Ranga Agricultural University
Dr. Javed Ali
Paper Coordinator Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi

Content Writer Dr. Javed Ali

Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi

Prof. Roop K. Khar, Principal

Content Reviewer B.S. Anangpuria Institute of Pharmacy, Haryana

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Herbals in cosmetic products

Contents:
 History, uses
 Herbs used in cosmetic industry.
 Adulteration of Natural products

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Herbal cosmetics as the name suggest are natural substances that are free from all the injurious
synthetic chemicals which may have toxic and unwanted reactions with the skin. Herbal products
are derived from the crude or extract form of the herbs. Pharmaceutical products that are known
to have influence on skin's biological texture and function are known as Cosmeceuticals.

1. History

In general, herbal cosmetics are referred to as natural cosmetics. A pharmacologically active

chemical compound that is found in nature and extracted from the living organisms is known as a
Natural product. Herbal cosmetics are prepared by means ofusing different cosmetic constituents
in combination with one or more herbal constituent to form the base to treatnumerous skin
diseases. These herbal cosmetics are formulated by using plants or their derivatives which are
widely used in cosmetics and pharmaceutical industry. Historically herbs are a great source for
the production of new medicines as they provide an immense variety of structural templates for
new drug discovery and development. The natural products is derived from a natural source,
have significant structural diversity owing to their small molecular structure having molecular
weight of below 3,000 Daltons. Furthermore, natural products can be categorized into
prescription and non-prescription drugs (pharmaceuticals), cosmetic ingredients (cosmeceuticals)
and dietary supplements and more. Ayurveda is an age-old concept of beauty. In Ancient era,
there is a mention of many cosmetic products like Alita, kajal, Tilank, Henna, etc that were used
to augment the beauty in many ancient scriptures like Abhijnana, Shakuntalam and
Meghadootam of Kalidasa and many mythological epics. Aryan period explored the use of
turmeric, saffron, chlorophyll pigment and indigo for the body decoration purpose. In ancient
times henna was used for dying hair and conditioning.

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1.1.Advantages of Herbal Cosmetics

In today’s modern world Herbal cosmetics are gaining attention in the field of beauty and
fashion over synthetic products for their personal care to enhance beauty and health as these
cosmetic products provides nutrients to the body. Also, using herbal cosmetics is agreeable as
they do not contain any synthetic chemicals and relatively less toxic as compared to the synthetic
cosmetics.

Some of the major advantages of using natural cosmetics over synthetic one may be summed up
as follows:

 First and foremost thing is the safety. Herbal cosmetics are safe to use as compared to the
other beauty products. As natural ingredients are used in the production of these products
therefore the customer is not worried about getting some allergic skin reactions or
itching. They are tested for allergic tests and dermatologists have proved that they are
safe to use anytime and anywhere. For e.g. ButylatedHydroxyanisole (BHA) and
ButylatedHydroxytoluene (BHT) are synthetic antioxidants used as preservatives in
lipsticks and moisturizers which maytriggers the allergic reactions in the skin. Also,
International Agency for Research on Cancer believes that BHA is a potent human
carcinogen, whereas in contrast herbal cosmetics contain natural antioxidants like vitamin
C.
 Herbal cosmetics are compatible with all skin types. Irrespective of the skin tone,
natural products are present in the market to be used. The one having oily or sensitive
skin may also use them without getting worried about any skin allergy or adverse
reactions. In synthetic cosmetics, coal tar derived colors are widely used which is
categorized as potent human carcinogen. In contrast, colors obtained naturally from the
herbs are considered to safe for the use.

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 Even thoughherbal cosmetics are newer in the industry of cosmetics they propose a wide
range of products to choose from. There is a wide range of beauty products like
foundation, eye shadow, lipstick etc available in the market. In addition, these natural
products may be made locally in the market or by world famous designers naming few,
Shilajit (Asphalt), Kalmegh (AndrographisPaniculata) etc.
 Natural cosmetic fits your budget, they are not expensive, and actually they are more
affordable than the synthetic products. In additions, prices are more reduced during sale
period and they are sold at discounted prices. According to a survey conducted by WHO
it was found that almost 80% of the world is dependent on the natural products for the
maintenance of their beauty and health.
 Natural products are not tested on animals in comparison to the synthetic cosmetics
which are to be tested on animals prior to be used on humans to establish their safety and
efficacy. These natural products are tested by scientist in their laboratories by using
various equipment’s and not animals.
 In contrast to the synthetic products, the natural products are safe to use and have no side
effects. Use of synthetic products may cause skin irritation or pimples or block the skin
pores making the skin dry or oily. However, with the herbal cosmetics there is no such
problem, one can have assurance of no side effects and may use them anytime and
anywhere. For e.g., one of the most widely used preservative ‘paraben’ is known have
interference with the hormone function as they can easily penetrate the skin.

2. Herbs Used in Cosmetics

Varieties of herbs are naturally available that have different uses in cosmetic formulations used
in skincare, hair care and as antioxidants, fragrant etc. Few important examples are discussed
below:
2.1.Skincare

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 Coconut oil: It is extracted from the fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree
Cocosnuciferabelonging to familyArecaceae(Shown in Fig 1). It is extracted from the
dried kernels (copra) of the plant containing 60-65% of the oil and crushing them.It
alsoenclosesa significant amount of glycerides of lower chain fatty acids. Coconut oil can
be used in both liquid and solid forms, cooking and baking owing to their low melting
point i.e. 24 - 25°C (75 to 76ºF). It is also used as a skin moisturizer and softener.

Figure 1: Coconut Fruit

 Sunflower oil: It is produced from the seeds of sunflower obtained from Helianthus
annuus, family Asteraceae(Shown in Fig 2). The oil is non-volatile in nature and
enclosestocopherols,lecithin, carotenoids and waxes. In addition, it posses smoothing
properties and is also considered as non-comedogenic. It is a tried and tested oil from
generations for formulating the face and body products, in addition, it is also cost-
effective.

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Figure 2: Sunflower

 Jojoba oil: It is minedfrom the seeds of the desert shrub simmondsiachinenesis belonging
to family Simmondsiaceae(Shown in Fig 3). It contains mixture of long chain, linear
liquid wax esters. It is widely used in cosmetic industry as moisturizer and as carrier oil
for exotic fragrances owing to their ability to easily remove any odor and color. In
addition, they are not prone to oxidation and are quite stable. It was reported that jojoba
oil and human sebum are almost similar. It is known that sebummoisturizes and protects
the skin and hair however the capability is demoted by external agents like pollution, sun
radiations, aging process and chemicals ultimately resulting in skin and hair drying. To
overcome this, jojoba oil may be used that helps to replenish the loss done to skin and
hair.

Figure 3: Jojoba Fruit

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 Olive oil: This oil is extracted from fruits of Oleaeuropaea belonging to family
oleaceae(Shown in Fig 4). It is a fixed oil having tripalmitin, tristearate, triolein,
monosterate, tocopherol, squaleneetc as its major constituent. It is a potent fatty acid
penetration enhancer and is used as a skin and hair conditioner in cosmetics.

Figure 4: Olive Fruit

 Aloevera: It is an herbal plant belonging to family liliaceae(Shown in Fig 5). It is widely

used in cosmetic industry owing to their property of healing, moisturizing and softening
the skin. The soothing gel can easily be extracted by simply cutting one of the aloevera
leaves. It possesses cleansing action because of the presence of the amino acid like
leucine, isoleucine, saponin glycosides. Also, because of the presence of the vitamin
A,C,E,B, choline etc, anti-oxidant effect is also seen.

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Figure 5: Aloe Vera

2.2.Antiaging
 Rhodiolarosea-Rhodiolarosea: Usually known as golden root or roseroot or Aaron's rod
or arctic root(Shown in Fig 6). This plant belongs to Crassulaceaefamily found in cold
regions of world. It is mainly grown in dry sandy ground at high altitudes in the arctic
areas of Europe and Asia. Traditional folk medicine makes use ofR. roseawhich is rich in
phenolic compounds and known to have antioxidant properties. They usually enhance the
work productivity,physical endurance, resistance to high altitude sickness, longevity,and
to care for depression, impotence, fatigue, anemia, gastrointestinal ailments, infections,
and nervous system disorders.

Figure 6: Rhodiolarosea

 Carrot: This valuable herb is extracted from plant DaucuscarotafamilyApiaceae(Shown

in Fig 7). It is rich in Vitamin A beside other essential vitamins. Oil obtained from the
carrot seed is explored for their properties like revitalizing, anti-aging and rejuvenating
agent. The bright orange color and the characteristics properties of the carrot are due to
presence of β-carotene along with the small amount of α-carotene and γ-carotene.

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Figure 7: Carrot

 Gingko: The leaves and nuts of Ginkgo biloba(G. biloba) (Shown in Fig 8) is used to
treat various medical ailments like high blood pressure, dementia, depression, blood
circulation etc. from thousands of years in Japan and China. In addition, they are also
used as a powerful anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory agent.

Figure 8: Gingko

2.3.Dandruff treatment: Commonly used herbs in this treatment are Neem, Henna, Amla,
Bringaraj, Kapoor, Hirda etc.
 Henna: It is obtained from Lawsoniainermisplant belonging to
Lythraceaefamily(Shown in Fig 9). Henna powder is produced by processing a

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dye molecule present in the plant known as Lawsone which also shows an
antifungal antibiotic effect. Apart from Lawsone, other constituents likeglucose,
gallic acid, mannitol, fats, mucilage,resinand traces of an alkaloid are also present
in the plant. An ether and alcohol soluble constituent is also obtained from the
leaves known as hennatannic acid and an olive oil green resin.

Figure 9: Henna leaves and powder

 Neem: This is the commonest treatment for the dandruff as it produces antifungal,
antibacterial and pain-relieving compounds, which are known to treat the
dandruff. It is also known as Margosa, a botanical relative of mahogany belonging
to family Meliaceae(Shown in Fig 10).

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Figure 10: Neem leaves and fruit

2.4.Skin Protection
 Green tea: Camellia sinensis(Shown in Fig 11)is tea plant cultivated in Asia from
thousands of years. It contains polyphenoliccatechins, in which 4 are present in majority
namely (2)-epicatechin (EC), EGC, (2)-EC-3-gallate, and EGCG. They have an anti-
oxidant effect and known to inhibit the chemical carcinogenesis.

Figure 11: Green tea

 Calendula: Calendula officinalis(Shown in Fig 12) possesses tremendous antioxidant,

anti- inflammatory activity. From the studies it was concluded that the plant mainly

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consist of 1,8-Cineole, α-thujene, α-pinene, T-muurolol and dihydrotagetone essential

oils.

Figure 12: Calendula

 Turmeric: It is obtained from the underground stems of the tropical perennial

herbCurcuma longa belonging to the family Zingiberaceae(Shown in Fig 13). The
powder obtained is deep yellow-to-orange in color. The plant is known to have a wide
variety of the phytochemicals naming few demethoxycurcumin, zingiberene, curcumenol,
turmerones, curcumin etc. The yellow color of turmeric is due to the presence of
curcumin which is later known to have therapeutic effects also. Turmeric is used widely
to treat many medical ailments like it may act as antiseptic, antioxidant, insect- repellant,
analgesic, etc.

Figure 13: Turmeric

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2.5.Haircare
 Amla: It is a fruit obtained from a small leafy tree named EmblicaOfficinalis(Shown in
Fig 14). It contains high amount of vitamin C. Also, precious oil is extracted from the
plants seed and pulp which is used to treat hair and scalp problems.

Figure 14: Amla fruit

 Shikakai: Medicinal plant grown in the tropical rainforest regions of southern Asia
named Acacia concinna Linn. from family Leguminosae(Shown in Fig 15). The powder
of the plant is tested positive for tannins, alkaloids, saponins, flavanoids, sugars and
anthraquinone glycosides. Fruits of the plant are used for improving the growth of the
hairs and washing hairs. Also, used as a purgative, emetic and expectorant.

Figure 15: Shikakai

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2.6.Essential oils
 Rose oil: Mainly four species of the rose is used for the production of oil i.e. Rosa
damascene Mill.,R. gallicaL., andR. moschataHerrm.(Shown in Fig 16). They are the
most preferred flower worldwide because of their immense diversity in plant habitat and
floral characteristics. The oil and water obtained from the plant is known to have many
therapeutic effects as the oil helps in mind smoothening and also healing depression,
overcoming stress and nervousness. It is also helpful in wound healing and has skin
health properties.

Figure 16: Rose flower

 Eucalyptus oil: This essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of leaves of

Eucalyptus species (Shown in Fig 17). Around 700 different Eucalyptus species (like E.
baueriana F. Muell., E. microtheca F. Muell., E. cinerea F. Muell., etc.) are known in the
world form which at least 500 produces the essential oil. The oil is useful in the
preparation of many pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations like limiments, inhalants,
ointments etc. It is also used as a pharmaceutical flavoring agent.

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Figure 17: Eucalyptus leaves

2.7.Antioxidants
 Tamarind: TamarindusindicaL. of family Fabaceae and subfamily
Caesalpinioideae(Shown in Fig 18). The plant consists of amino acids, fatty acids and
minerals. Tamarind has a unique sweet acidic taste owing to the presence of the tartaric
acid in the plant. In addition, it also contains vitamin B and is a source of sugar. It
possess antioxidant activity because of the presence of the high phenolic content,
therefore is a significant food source.

Figure 18: Tamarind

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 Vitamin C: It is essential for the hydroxylation of proline, lysine and procollagen. It

helps in the treatment of the changes caused by photo damage. Additionally, it is
effectively used to stimulate collagen repair, thus removing some of the effects of photo-
aging on skin.
 Vitamin E: Vitamin E is the major lipophilic antioxidant present in the plasma
membranes and tissues. It is a combined term that refers to the 30 naturally occurring
molecules (4 tocopherols and 4 tocotrienols), exhibit the Vit E activity. The main
pathway of the working of the Vit E is scavenging the lipid peroxyl radicals, hence the
cessation of the chain proliferation and lipid peroxidation, which ultimately leads to
protection of the cell membrane from destruction.

3. Adulteration of Natural products

Adulteration/degradation of a substance refers to a number of conditions that may be intentional

or accidental. Usually it is seen in crude drugs including substitution of the original crude drugs
partially or fully with other contentsthat are either free or inferior in therapeutic/chemical
properties.

Different methods for adulteration are mentioned as follows:

a) Substituting Inferior Commercial Varieties: Inferior commercial varieties are

substituted with the authentic drugs because of their morphological resemblance.
Theses inferior varieties are either free from the therapeutic or chemical properties or
do not possess them. For e.g., to adulterate Zingiberofficinale(medicinal ginger)
species like Cassiaauriculata (avaram), Zingibermioga(Japanese ginger), Cassia
angustifolia(Arabian Senna) etc are used.

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b) Artificially Manufacturing the Substitutes: Some ingredients are synthetically

manufactured to match up to the appearance and general form of original drugs. For
e.g., artificial invert sugar is prepared to substitute honey.

c) Substitution by Exhausted Drugs: Plant materials which already have been

extracted out and left with no medicinal value are substituted or mixed with the
original drugs. For example, volatile oils (like clove oil) are generally substituted,
also artificial dyes are used in order to re-color the exhausted plants like saffron and
red rose petals.

d) Supposedly Similar but Cheaper Natural Substances substitution: Just for the
sake of making the preparation cheaper or increasing the profit margin cheaper
substances are substituted with the original although the adulterated product has no
desired therapeutic or chemical property.

e) Addition of Worthless Heavy Materials: To make the bulk of the preparation large
mass of valueless materials are added. For example, pieces of limestone are found in
asafoetida etc.

f) Addition of Synthetic Principles: To strengthen the natural products, low amount of

synthetic material is added. For e.g. addition of citral to lemon oil, etc.

g) Usage of Vegetative Matter from the Same Plant: Adventitious matter is added
with the part of the same plant having no medicinal value just to increase the bulk.

Conclusion

In addition to the above mentioned traditionally recognized applications, some modern trials
have also been carried out to study the effectiveness of the herbs. In addition, their demand is

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escalating fast owing to their properties of skin friendliness and less side effects. As the herbal
cosmetics are prepared purely from herbs and shrubs, they are free from side-effects instead.

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