Introduction to Textile Engineering
Textile:
A textile was originally a woven fabric but the textile & the plural textiles
are how also applied to fibres, filament, yarn (natural, manufactured) &
most product for which these are a principle raw material.
Description of textile as defined in above & of raw materials, process,
machinery building craft, technology, personal used in and the
organization & activities connected with their manufacture.
Fibre:
Fibres have been defined by the Textile Institute (UK) as “It is a unit of
matter which length is 500 – 1000 times longer than it’s width and
characterized by flexibility & fineness”.
e.g.: cotton, jute, flux, sisal, wool, etc.
Generic term used to describe the basic element of the material form
which yarns, textiles, knits & other substances are made.
Specific term used to describe the basic element characterized by a
length that is at least 100 times the width of the fibre & by a definitely
preferred oriented of its crystal’s unit cells with respect to the
longitudinal axis.
Textile Fibre:
A fibre that can be spun into a yarn or processed into textiles such as
fabric, knit, lace, felt & non-woven etc. by means of an appropriate
interlacing method.
In order to a fibre to be classically spinnable, its length should be at least
5 mm. In addition, it must be supple or flexible, present sufficient
cohesiveness & be strong enough. Other properties, more or less
desirable, including elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability, luster,
crimp (waviness) and the ability to absorb moisture.
Staple Fibre:
A fibre type with limited length which is generally measured. It includes
the fibres of natural origin & those obtained by chopping filament.
Examples: Cotton, Jute, Flex, Wool, Ramie etc.
Filament:
A fibre type characterized by extreme length that is not measured. The
extreme length of filament permits fabrication into yarn without or with
very low twist & without the usual spinning operation into yarns.
Examples are Silk (natural), Polyester, Nylon etc.
Classification of Textile Fibre:
There are two types of Textile Fibres.
1) Natural Fibres.
2) Man-Made Fibres.
Natural Fibres:
Vegetable Origin
Bast Fibres: A) Jute. B) Flax. C) Hemp. D) Kenaf.
E) Sunn. F) Urena. G) Ramie. H) Nettle
Leaf Fibres: A) Sisal B) Manila etc.
Seed Fibres: A) Cotton.
Fruit Fibres: A) Coir.
Animal Origin
Wool & Hair Fibres.
Silk & Other filaments.
Mineral Origin
Asbestos.
Man-Made Fibres:
Natural Polymer Based
Cellulose Fibres (Rayon).
Cellulose Ester Fibres.
Protein Fibres.
Miscellaneous Fibres.
Synthetic Polymer Based
Polyamides. Polyvinyl Derivatives
Polyesters. 1) Polyacrylonitrile (PAN).
Polyurethanes. 2) Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC).
Polyolefins. 3) Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA).
1) Polyethylene. 4) Polyvinylidene Chloride.
2) Polypropylene. 5) Polyvinylidene dinitrile.
Miscellaneous Fibres. 6) Polystyrene & PTFE.
Synthetic: The fibre which is obtained by chemical synthesis is called synthetic
fibre.
Regenerated: The fibre which is obtained by conversion of natural fibre process is
called regenerated fibre.
Man Made Fibre
Acrylic & Modacrylic:
Acrylic is a man-made fibre in which the fibre forming substance is a
long chain synthesized polymer composed of at least 85 % by weight of
acrylonitrile units.
Modacrylic is a man-made fibre in which the fibre forming substance
is a long chain synthesized polymer composed of at least 35 % but not
more than 85 % by weight of acrylonitrile units.
Acrulic fibres must contain up to 15 % of a monomer (co-monomer)
other than acrylonitrile & modacrylic must contain at least 15 % but not
more than 65 % of a co-monomer other than acrylonitrile.
The other co-monomer may be one or a combination. Such as
acrylamide, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride etc.
Properties of acrylic & modacrylic fibres:
Property Acrylic Modacrylic
Specific gravity 1.17 1.37
Moisture regain 1-2 % 3-4 %
Flammability More flammable Less flammable
Strength Higher Lower
Tenacity Staple : 2-3 g/d Used as filament
Filament: - Dry = 3.2 g/d
Dry = 5 g/d Wet = 5.2 g/d
Wet = 4.5 g/d
Elongation Dry = 16% & Wet= Dry & Wet = 33-37
17% %
Acrylic fibre characteristics:
Outstanding wick ability & quick drying to move moisture from
body surface.
Flexibility aesthetics for wool-like, cotton-like or blended
appearance.
Easily washed retains shape.
Resistance to moths, oil & chemicals.
Dye ability to bright shades with excellent fastness.
Superior resistance to sunlight degradation.
Some major Acrylic fibre uses:
Apparel: Sweaters, socks, fleece wear, circular knit apparel,
sportswear & children’s wear.
Home furnishings: Blankets, area rungs, upholstery, pile;
luggage, awnings, outdoor furniture.
Industrial uses: Asbestos replacement; concrete & stucco
reinforcement.
Other uses: Craft yarns, sail cover cloth, wipe cloths.
Polyester Fibre
Fibre manufacturing process:
Today over 70 to 75% of polyester is produced by CP (continuous
polymerization) process using PTA (purified Terephthalic Acid) and
MEG. The old process is called Batch process using DMT (Dimethy
Terephthalate) and MEG (Mono Ethylene Glycol).
Physical & chemical properties of polyester fibre:
1. Denier: 0.5 - 15
2. Tenacity: dry 3.5 - 7.0 & wet 3.5 - 7.0
3. Elongation at break: dry 15 - 45 & wet 15 45
4. Moisture regains: 0.4
5. Shrinkage in boiling water: 0 - 3
6. Crimps per inch: 12 -14
7. Dry heat shrinkage: 5 - 8 (at 180 C for 20 min)
8. Specific gravity: 1.36 - 1.41
9. Elastic recovery: 2% - 5%
10. Glass transition temp: 800 C
11. Softening temp: 230 - 2400 C
12. Melting point: 260 – 270 0 C
13. Effect of Sunlight: turns yellow, retains 70 - 80 % tenacity at
long exposure
14. Resistance to weathering: good
15. Rot resistance: high
16. Alkali resistance: damaged by CON alkali
17. Acid resistance: excellent
18. Organic chemical resistance: good
Lustre:
Polyester fibres are available in
bright: 0.05 to 0.10 % TiO2
Semil dull: 0.2 to 0.3 % TiO2
dull: 0.5 % TiO2
extra dull: 0.7% TiO2
Tg [Glass transition temperature]
The temperature below which a polymer is hard & above which it is
soft is called the glass transition temperature.
Tm [Crystalline melting point]
The temperature above which polymer melt is called crystalline
melting point.
Cotton fibre
Chemical composition of cotton:
Cellulose -- 85.5 %
Oil & Wax -- 0.5 %
Protein, pectose -- 5%
&coloring matter
Mineral matter -- 1%
Moisture -- 8.5 %
The macro-structure of cotton:
Length 1 cm to 6.5 cm
Diameter 11 m to 22 m
Convolution 60 per cm
Colour Generally white, may be
creamy or brown.
Length width ratio 600 : 1 & 350 : 1
Light reflection Low luster, dull appearance.
Physical properties of cotton fibre:
Specific gravity 1.52 to 1.55
Moisture region 8.5 %
Strength = Tenacity Dry = 3.5 g/d & Wet = dry 1.11
Elasticity Low (Breaking extension 5-7 %)
Resiliency Low
Abrasion resistance Medium
Dimensional stability Medium
Cotton colour standard:
Classification of raw cotton colour;
1. White
2. Light spotted
3. Spotted
4. Tinged
5. Yellow stained.
1. “White”
Colour grade Symbol Code
Good Middling G.M 11
Strict Middling S.M 21
Middling M 31
Strict Low Middling S.L.M 41
Low Middling L.M 51
Strict Good S.G.O 61
Ordinary
Good Ordinary G.O 71
2. “Light spotted”
Colour grade Symbol [L.S] Code
Good Middling G.M 12
Strict Middling S.M 22
Middling M 32
Strict Low Middling S.L.M 42
Low Middling L.M 52
Strict Good S.G.O 62
Ordinary
3. “Spotted”
Colour grade Symbol [S] Code
Good Middling G.M 13
Strict Middling S.M 23
Middling M 33
Strict Low Middling S.L.M 43
Low Middling L.M 53
Strict Good S.G.O 63
Ordinary
4. “Tinged”
Colour grade Symbol [T] Code
Strict Middling S.M 24
Middling M 34
Strict Low Middling S.L.M 44
Low Middling L.M 54
5. “Yellow stained”
Colour grade Symbol [Y.S] Code
Strict Middling S.M 25
Middling M 35
Identification of cotton fibre:
Burn test: When ignited, it does not shrink from the flame & burns with
a yellow flame while in it. It continuous to burn when the flame is
removed smells like burning paper. There is a little grey ash residue after
extinguishing.
Chemical test: Treatment with H2SO4 : with concentrated H2SO4 (98
% cold) the cotton fibre will be destroyed that is the cellulose
components will be dissolved.
Chemical properties:
Effect of –
1. Acid:
Strong acid weaken & destroyed the fibre concentration Nitric acid
for short time causes some shrinkage & increase strength & dye
ability.
2. Alkali:
The fibre show excellent resistance to alkali.
3. Organic solvent:
Resistance so dry wash is possible.
4. Heat:
Conductive ironing temperature: 1500 C
Decompose temperature: 2400 C
Ignition temperature: 3900 C
5. Dye ability:
a. Azoic Dye
b. Direct Dye
c. Reactive Dye
d. Sulphur Dye
e. Vat Dye.
Moisture regains:
It is defined that weight of water in the material expressed as % to the
oven dry weight of the material.
W
R= 100 %
D
When, D = Oven dry weight
W = Weight of water
Moisture content:
It is defined that weight of water in the material expressed as % to the
total weight of the material.
W
C= 100 %
D+W
When, D+W = Total weight
W = Weight of water
Relation between moisture regain & moisture content:
We know,
W
C= 100 % ----------------------------------- (1)
D+W
W
R= 100 % ------------------------------------- (2)
D
From equation 2,
W
D= 100 % -------------------------------------- (3)
R
From equation 2 & 3
Now we get,
W
C= 100
W + (W/R 100)
W
= 100
W (1 + 100/R)
100 R
C=
100 + R
100 C
& R=
100 – C
Oven dry weight:
It is defined as the constant weight obtained by drying the material at a
temperature of 1050 30 C, till all the moisture is expelled.
Problem 1: The weight of cotton sample was found to be 105 grain, when
it heated at 1050 C for 2 hours the weight of sample was reduced to 100
grain. What the values of moisture regain & moisture content?
Solution:
Given,
Total weight D + W = 105 grain
Oven dry weight D = 100 grain
Weight of water W = 5 grain
We know,
W
C= 100 %
D+W
= 5 / 105 100 %
Moisture content = 4.76 %
W
R= 100 %
D
= 5 / 100 100 %
Moisture regain = 5 %
Standard atmosphere:
It is defined as an atmosphere at the prevailing barometric pressure with
a relative humidity of 65 % & temperature of 200 C.
But in tropical & sub-tropical regain temperature 270 C.
Humidity:
It is the term used to describe the amount of moisture present in the
atmosphere.
Absolute humidity:
It is the weight of water present in a unit volume of moisture air:
Grain/cubic foot OR Gram/cubic meter
Relative humidity:
It is the ratio of actual vapor pressure & standard vapor pressure at the
same temperature. It is expressed as percentage.
Actual vapor pressure
Relative humidity = 100 %
Standard vapor pressure
