DOUBLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH
STITCH CLASS 400 : MULTI THREAD CHAIN STITCH
This stitch type is formed by inter-looping of two or more groups of thread.
Stitch formation in the stitch type 401
MACHINE COMPONENTS
Thread tension mechanism Thread tension Nut Tension post holder Thread Eye-let ( 5 nos. ) Thread take-up plate Needle Thread Guard
Needle bar and lever Mechanism
Needle lever Needle Bar guide and clamp Ball joint
Feed Mechanism
Feed-dog Feed rocker arm Rear puller Feed-dog slots
Looper Mechanism
Looper Looper Rocker Take-up Rod Looper Holder Bracket
Presser Foot Mechanism Presser Bar Presser Screw Lifter Lever Spring Presser Foot Lifter Lever Presser Bar Guide Presser Bar Spring
NEEDLES
Schmetz- UY113GS Organ UO113GS Groz-beckert- TVx64
Needles and needle sizes Schmetz UY113GS Organ UO113GS
Nm 75
Nm 80
Nm 90
Nm 100
#11
#12
#14
#116
THREADING
Threading of the machine is very important
Incorrect threading may cause:
Skip stitch
Thread breakage Uneven stitch formation
MACHINE SPEED
Chain stitch machine can have a speed up to 8000rpm
Model DBF1404P
Max. speed 4500
Standard speed 4000
FEED MECHANISM
Unison Feed Mechanism:
It is a combination of three feed mechanisms Conventional feed mechanism Needle feed mechanism
Alternating presser foot
TIMING OF THE LOOPER TO NEEDLES
Angle for installing the looper and position of the looper holder bracket There should be a clearance of 0~0.1mm between the point of the looper and the scarf of the needle
LOOPER LEFT RIGHT MOVEMENT and LOOPER SETTING DISTANCE
ADJUSTING THE TIMING OF THE RETAINER LOOPER
Position of the retainer loop
There should be a clearance of 0.5mm between the needle and the point of the retainer looper. Adjustment is made by loosening b as shown in the fig.
Timing of the retainer looper to the needle When the needle, moving from top to bottom of Its stroke, enters the triangle of the looper thread, the retainer Looper should be at the extreme right end of its travel The clearance between the retainer looper and the right side of looper should we 0.5 mm.
The clearance between the retainer looper and the top surface of the looper blade at 0.1mm
ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE GUARD
Position of the needle guard
When the needle is closest to needle guard, there should be clearance of 0~0.1mm between the right side of the needle and the guard.
ADJUSTING THE FEED DOG & STITCH LENGTH
When needle bar is at top of its stroke, the feed dog teeth should be 1~1.2mm above the top surface of the needle plate.
Stitch length The stitch length can be adjusted from 2 to 5 mm. Stitch length (mm) 2 3 Number of stitches Within1 13 8.5
within 30mm 15 10
5 D N
6 C S
ADJUSTING THE PRESSER FOOT
Presser foot pressure should be as light as possible yet, sufficient to feed the fabric.
Position of the presser foot
Accurate placement so that the needle can drop correctly to the centre of the needle drop hole on the presser foot
ADJUSTING THE STITCH FORMATION
Thread tension adjustment It can be adjusted by adjusting the mount tension devices on the machine ( The tension should be as light as possible ).
Position of the needle thread eyelets Secure needle thread eyelets should be at the top end of the slot. ( The needle thread eyelets can be raised to tighten the needle thread )
APPLICATION OF DNCS
Inseam of jeans, trousers In Jackets seams Sewing sides of slacks Hemming or welting garment parts Attaching lining tapes Joining seat of slacks
VARIATIONS IN DNCS
Variations in bed type Cylindrical bed- feed of the arm Raised bed Flat bed
Variations in number of needles 2 needle double needle chain stitch machine 4 needle double needle chain stitch machine 12 needle double needle chain stitch machine 33 needle double needle chain stitch machine
