FABRIC DEFECTS
BY B.Aparna
DEFINITION OF DEFECT
An imperfection
Want or absence of something necessary for
completeness. A fault that spoils the material. Fabric defect: A Fabric Defect is any abnormality in the Fabric that hinders its acceptability by the consumer.
FABRIC DEFECTS
Fabric defects are identified during the grey inspection of the Woven defect Knitted defect Garment defect Other defect
These defects are classified into three groups Avoidable and unavoidable
While most of the defects in the fabric are avoidable some are unavoidable such as floats/smashes.
Major and minor
Defect such as weft crack is considered to be a minor if it is within 1-2 cm while the same defect is major when it is more than 2cm.
Mendable and unmendable
Certain defects such as isolated snarls could be mended while the others such as big cracks are unmendable.
Major defects are classified as follows
Woven defects include slubs, hole, missing yarn, yarn variation,
soiled yarn, wrong yarn.
SLUB
Slub is a bunch of yarn having less twist or no twist
and has a wider diameter compared to normal spun yarn CAUSES Improper carding/combing. Broken tooth in the chain of gear system MENDING The slub should be cut with the clipper from both the ends. The resultant bare patch can be corrected by combing with a metallic comb or by insertion of a separate thread with the help of fine needle.
HOLE, CUT, TEAR HOLE
CAUSES Sharp edges on cloth roll. Hard substance between layers of fabric in cloth roll During removal of hard particles like, Iron particles woven in the cloth MENDING Non mendable
WOVEN DEFECT
The woven fabric defects can be organized into
three basic categories. The weft direction defects, the warp direction defects and defects with no directional dependence.
Some of them in the weft direction are irregular weft
density, double pick, broken pick, weft yarn defect, and float BROKEN PICK A pick missing from a portion of the width of the fabric due to rough shuttle-eyes which snag the weft.
FLOAT
Float is the improper
interlacement of warp and weft threads over a certain area. CAUSES Improper sizing (ends sticking) Broken end entangling with the other ends MENDING Only minor floats can be rectified. The floating threads are cut with a clipper . Combing in both direction rectifies the resultant patch
defects in the warp direction are broken end, double end
and warp yarn defect. BROKEN END CAUSE Failure of the weaver in attending the warp breaks properly MENDING The broken ends woven in a bunch can be removed by using a plucker and the resulting loose ends should be cut with clipper. As a result, a bare patch occurs and combing in both directions with a metallic comb can fill this up.
DOUBLE END CAUSES Wrong drawing, taking more ends in heald eye. MENDING This fault can be corrected by pulling out the extra end with the help of needle.
Defects with no directional dependence involve
defects: stain, hole and foreign body STAINS Stains such as grease, rust etc occur due to poor material handling.
MISSING ENDS The most common defect characterized by a gap of one or more warp threads in a fabric caused due to un mended broken ends, missing ends and high incidence of warp breakages.
DEFECTIVE SELVEDGE
Curled selvedge Cut,torn or burst
selvage Loppy selvedge Pulled in selvedge
Knitted defects include barre, thick yarn, thin yarn,
holes, and broken needle
Dye or printing defects include dye spots, machine
stop, colour fading, and different shading.
Garment defects include faulty zippers, irregular hemming, loose
buttons, and raw edges.
ANALYSIS OF FABRIC DEFECTS
The methods employed for analysis of fabric
defects are 1.First piece inspection 2.Grey inspection 3.Point rate system
First piece inspection
The first piece of the newly gated loom is
inspected for design verifications.
The report is immediately sent to the weaving
department and if there is any defect the necessary changes are made.
Grey inspection and grading
Fabrics are tested in grey state after weaving and
then after finishing processes.
In the grey inspection the fabric defects are
identified and mended if they are mendable.
In the final folding the fabric defects are examined
and graded into the following six categories .
1.Fresh or first quality: fabric with no major or objectionable faults. 2.Shorter length: piece of cloth having shorter length(less than 50 cm). 3.Seconds: cloth having minor defects. 4.Fents : The cut pieces of cloths measuring 90cm and more but less than 150 cm in length are graded as fents. 5.Rags : The cut pieces of cloths larger than 25cm but less than 90 cm are regarded as rags. 6.Chindies : These are the cloths having length of 25cm or less.
Point rate system
The 5 types point rate systems are
4-point rate system
10-point rate system. 6-point rate system. Graniteville system Dallas system
4-point system
Given by ASTM, the test method describes a procedure of
a visual inspection.
This system does not establish a quality level for a given
product, but rather provides a means of defining defects according to their severity by assigning demerit point values.
DEFECT DEMERIT POINT Length of defect Demerit Points 3 inches or less 1 3 - 6 inches 2 6 - 9 inches 3 9 inches 4
Grading
1. Linear Yard basis: Acceptable tolerance=20 points per100 linear yard 2. Square yard basis: Points/100 sq. yd= Total Points scored in the bulk X 100
X36
Width of the roll(inch) X total yards inspected
10-point system
In this system the cloth defects are given demerit
points from 1 to 10depending upon the variety of defect. Warp way defect Defects 25cm-90cm 12.6cm-25cm 2.6cm-12.5cm Up to 2.5 cm
Penalty points 10 5 3 1
Weft way defects
Defect Defects running full width Defects 12.5 cm-half width 2.6 - 12.5cm Up to 2.5 cm
Penalty points 10 5 3 1
Grading of cloth, that is first and second quality
depends upon the number of penalty points per piece. Cloth is inspected on the face side only unless specified.
6-point system
Defects
Penalty points Up to 25 cm 1 25-50 cm 2 50-74cm 3 75-99cm 4 100-124cm 5 125-150cm 6
Graniteville system
Defect
Upto 9 9-18 18-27
Penalty points 1 2 3
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