Formulating
Making cosmetics & personal care products Perry Romanowski
Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 10/0 /0!
"genda
#aming Chemicals Raw materials Formula types Creating and testing formulas
Personal Care & Cosmetic Products
"ll of them are re$uired to ha%e &ist of 'ngredients (&)'*
Formulating
#aming Cosmetic Chemicals
Chemical #omenclature
'#C' +ictionary (11th edition* &egal names & cross references
Sources Regulatory info "pplication info
www,ctfa,org
Formulating
#aming Cosmetic Compounds
Chemical #omenclature Systems
Semisystematic method
-ses common names &ow molecular weight compounds
'-P"C ('nternational* System
.he one taught in college /ighly structured Figure out chemical structure from name
'#C' Con%entions
0lends 1oth systems
Formulating
#aming Cosmetic Compounds
Car1ons '-P"C
Main Chain 2 3 10 11 1 14 15 16 17 1! 12 13 0 Stem name )ctane #onane +ecane -ndecane +odecane .ridecane .etradecanoic Pentadecanoic /e8adecanoic /eptadecanoic )ctadecane #onadecane :icosane
'#C'
Fatty acids Caprylic Pelagronic Capric -ndecanoic &auric .ridecanoic Myristic Pentadecanoic Palmitic Margaric Stearic 99999999 "rachidic
'#C'
Fatty alcohols Caprylyl #onyl +ecyl -ndecyl &auryl .ridecyl Myristyl Pentadecyl Cetyl /eptadecyl Stearyl 9999999 "rachidyl
Formulating
#aming Cosmetic Compounds
'#C' is a little different than '-P"C
Fatty "cids Stems 1 Car1on; straight chain fatty acid
'-P"C it<s +odecanoic "cid '#C' it<s &auric "cid Sodium +odecyl Sulfate is Sodium &auryl Sulfate
17 Car1on; straight chain alcohol
'n '-P"C we call it /e8adecanol 'n '#C' it<s known as Cetyl "lcohol
Formulating
'#C' System
Source +eri%ed Stems
Most ingredients are not pure 1ut mi8tures Coconut oil; palm kernel oil; soy1ean oil "mmonium Coco9Sulfate
Cocotrimonium chloride
Formulating
Fatty "cid +istri1utions
Acid Caproic Caprylic Capric auric #yri$tic #yri$toleic Pentadecanoic Palmitic Palmitoleic #ar'eric Stearic (leic inoleic inolenic Arac)idic *e)enic C 6 8 10 1! 1" 1" 15 16 16 17 18 18 18 18 !0 !! Coconut 0.5 7.0 6.0 "8.0 1%.0 %.0 &.0 6.0 1.5 Palm !.0 "!.0 ".0 "&.0 %.0 Soybean 11.0 ".0 !1.0 55.5 8.5 Tallow &.5 1.0 0.5 !5.& ".0 !.5 1%." "0.8 !.5 Sun Flower 6.& ".1 !!.% 66.0 0.!
Formulating
'#C' system
+eri%ati%es
:thers; name 1oth alkyls add ether an 12 C & 17 C linked 1y ) is Stearyl Cetyl :ther :sters formed 1y reacting alcohol with acid #amed in 4 parts Myristyl Stearate = Myristyl alcohol reacted with Stearic acid
Formulating
"n e8ample
Cetyl Alco)ol CH3-(CH2)-14-CH2 - OH Palmitic Acid HOOC -(CH2)-14-CH3
O || CH3-(CH2)14-CH2 O C -(CH2)14-CH3 Cetyl Palmitate
Formulating
'#C' system
"lkanolamides 9 "lkyl groups reacted with amino groups RC) > fatty acid radical ? > 9C/R@C/ )/ A > 9/ or a lower alkyl group :8amples
+:" = diethanolamine .:" = triethanolamine Cocamide +:"
Formulating
'#C' system
BuaterniCed materials
Fatty acids linked to an ammonium ion Maintain a positi%e charge add the suffi8 D9iumE depending on num1er of su1stitutions Cetrimonium Chloride Buaternium & Poly$uaternium denoted 1y ar1itrary num1ers
Formulating
'#C' system
Poly$uaternium955
%inylpyrrolidone and $uaterniCed imidaColine monomers
Formulating
'#C' System 9 Silicones
Silicones 9 non9car1on 1ased ingredients
+imethicone (+imethyl polysilo8ane* +imethicone copolyol (has polyo8yethylene groups to impro%e water solu1ility* Cyclomethicone Silo8ane Silica = Si)
Farieties of Silicones
+imethicone Copolyol
Formulating
'#C' System 9 Polymers
Polymers
P:G (Polyethylene glycol* PPG (Polypropylene glycol* #um1er designates moles of ethylene o8ide "dapted from trade names
Car1omer #ylon97
#oteH Compounds are often referred to 1y their trade names
Formulating
Colorants
6,6'-(1,4-anthraquinonylenediimino)di-m-toluenesul oni! a!id "reen # (C$ 61#%&) disodium salt
Formulating
Colorants
Colorants
-nwieldy chemical names replaced F+&C (Food; +rug & Cosmetic* +&C e8t (+rug & Cosmetic e8ternal use* Recently changed to 1e more glo1al eg, F+&C Aellow no, 7 is now Aellow 7 (C' 16326* 526 appro%ed colorants for cosmetics
#atural 'ngredients
Iater :8tracts use latin names ("loe 0ar1adensis &eaf :8tract * lanolin; menthol; 1eeswa8; tea tree oil
Perfume is Just called Fragrance
Formulating
&ist of 'ngredients (&)'*
'ngredient &a1eling
-S &egal re$uirement -se standardiCed names Proper order
'n order a1o%e 1K 0elow 1K is ar1itrary e8cept Colors at the end Fragrance allergens
Formulating
:8ercise = &ist of 'ngredients
'ngredient &a1eling
Ihere is the 1K lineL .ipsH
Fragrance is rarely o%er 1K "dJustment ingredients are low #atural sounding ingredients are lower
Formulating
Ihere is the 1K lineL
/air Shampoo formula
Iater; "mmonium &auryl Sulfate; "mmonium &aureth Sulfate; Sodium Chloride; Cocoamide M:"; Glycol +istearate; +imethicone; "mmonium ?ylenesulfonate; Fanilla Planifolia Fruit :8tract; Cocos #ucifera Milk Coconut; Fragrance; Cetyl "lcohol; Poly$uaternium910; Sodium Citrate; Sodium 0enCoate; +isodium :+."; P:G9!M; Citric "cid; Propylene Glycol; MethylchloroisothiaColinone; MethylisothiaColinone; 0lue #o, 1,
Certainly prior to Fanilla e8tract Pro1a1ly 1etween Gylcol +istearate & +imethicone
Formulating
Ihere is the 1K lineL
/air Conditioner formula
Iater (a$ua*; Cetearyl "lcohol; Glycerin; Cyclomethicone; 0ehentrimonium Methosulfate; 0ehentrimonium Chloride; Cetyl "lcohol; Iheat Germ )il (triticum %ulgare*; /ydrolyCed Silk; Panthenol; .ocopheryl "cetate; MoJo1a )il (1u8us chinensis*; "loe 0ar1adensis &eaf Muice; Fragrance; Propylene Glycol; Methylpara1en; Propylpara1en; +iaColidinyl -rea; Citric "cid; Red 44; 0lue 1
0ody Iash
Iater; Sodium &aureth Sulfate; Cocamidopropyl 0etaine; "crylates Copolymer; Fragrance; Sodium &auroamphoacetate; Citric "cid; )8idiCed Polyethylene; Sea Salt; Sodium 0enCoate; Poly$uaternium 10; +isodium :+."; Sodium /ydro8ide; MethylchloroisothiaColinone; MethylisothiaColinone; Ferric "mmonium Ferrocyanide
Should 1e Simmondsia Chinensis (MoJo1a* Seed )il
Cosmetic Raw Materials
Cosmetic Raw Materials
Surfactants Conditioning ingredients Polymers Preser%ati%es Fragrances Colorants Claims ingredients
Most were discussed pre%iously in first; second or third lectures
Formulating
Conditioning "gents
+efinition/+escription
"ny material that impro%es the condition of 1iological surfaces
Su1stanti%ity
Resistance to rinse9off Conditioning agents stay on the surface Iater insolu1le or electrostatic
Formulating
Conditioning "gents
/air Conditioners
Makes hair easier to com1 'mpro%e shine; feel; & managea1ility /air strength
Skin Conditioners (MoisturiCers*
Reduce dryness; flaking Soften Protect from sun; wind; detergents,,,
Conditioner Ihat +oes 't +oL
Smoothes cuticle to impro%es hair<s DconditionE
'mpro%es com1ing; managea1ility; smoothness; and shine
Before, cuticles are lifted and rough
After, cuticles are tight and smoother
Formulating
.ypes of Conditioning "gents
Cationic Surfactants (Buats* NCationic Polymers N:mollients N/umectants N)cclusi%es
NMost of these were discussed pre%iously in first and third lecture
Formulating
BuaterniCed "mmonium Compounds
(Buats* Cationic Surfactants
"mmonium Salts &ong chain from 1 to
car1ons, )ily
Formulating
BuaterniCed "mmonium Compounds
:8amples
"mines
Cetrimonium Chloride Stearalkonium Chloride
Ho' they !ondition
Formulating
BuaterniCed "mmonium Compounds
)n the surface
/air cuticle is smoothed Softer feel :asier to Com1 &ess Static
Some issues with irritation Generally incompati1le with anionics,,,
Cosmetic Chemistry BuiC O1
Ihich ingredient is #). currently used in cosmeticsL Cow +ung Sheep placenta Ihale Semen Chicken 1one marrow
Formulating
Formulating
Product +efinition
Physical Parameters "esthetic Considerations Performance Packaging )perational 'ssues Cost
Formulating
.he process
Starting Formulation Make .est 0atches .est prototypes
Formulating
Starting Formulations
/ow +o Aou 0eginL
:8perience Supplier Formularies Reference .e8ts
de #a%arre series 0ennet formulary
Check patent literature; monthly trade Journals Peer "d%ice Competiti%e Research
Formulating
Competiti%e research
&ook at the &)' of competiti%e products -se the 1K line e8ercise to guess at formula Sources of &)' and claims information
httpH//drugstore,com httpH//ulta,com
Formulating
Starting Formulations
Iork within product constraints
Consider Formula Cost Production capa1ility Regulatory issues
Glo1al formulations,,,
Types of formulas:
Solutions
Simplest formulation /omogenous mi8ture of ingredients "pplications
Shampoo 0ody wash /and cleanser Cologne 0ath oils,,,
Types of formulas:
:mulsions = Making .hem
.alked a1out these last week Formulation
)il and Iater Phase are mi8ed separately )il phase is heated
to melt wa8es & fatty alcohols
Mi8ed with surfactants Cooled while 1eing agitated
this makes the appropriate particle siCe
Types of formulas:
:mulsions
"pplications
/and creams Make up /air conditioners Sha%ing cream Sunscreens,,,
Types of formulas:
Gels
Gels
Solid or semi solid materials in colloidal state Semi li$uid products dispensed from a tu1e Single phase Clear products Shear thinning
when force is applied they get thinner &ike ketchup
Types of formulas:
Gels
Gelling agents = 4 types
"crylic Polymers
Car1omer .hickens when polymeric chains chemically 1ond
#atural gums
Iater swella1le materials )il swella1le materials for anhydrous gels
Cellulosics
/ydro8ymethylcellulose
Types of formulas:
Gels
Formulation
Gelling agent causes thickening "dded at the end Reduces 1u11ling .ypically; good sta1ility
Types of formulas:
Gels
"pplications
/air gels 0ody care
Shower gels
Facial care
Sha%ing gel
)ral care
toothpaste,,,
Types of formulas:
Sticks
Sticks
Solid deli%ery form +eli%ers insolu1le acti%es Good for products you don<t want to touch Packaging is important "cti%es are deli%ered 1y ru11ing action
Types of formulas:
Sticks
Four types of sticks
Ia8 & oil mi8tures
0eeswa8 or Carnua1a Pigment deli%ery
Solidified soaps
Propylene glycol with sodium stearate Fragrance deli%ery
Types of formulas:
Sticks
Four types of sticks
Fatty alcohols with %olatile silicones
Stearyl "lcohol with Cyclomethicone Silicone impro%es feel
+i1enCylidene sor1itol
Gelling agent that creates clear sticks
Types of formulas:
Sticks
Manufacture =
ways
Pre9molding method /ot fill method
"pplications
&ipsticks Fragrance sticks "ntiperspirants/+eodorants,,,
Types of formulas:
"erosols
"erosols
Gaseous suspension of colloidal particles
Classic college e8ample is fog or ocean mist
Self9contained pressuriCed spray system deli%er insect repellant /airsprays introduced late 1350s
+e%eloped during II''
Types of formulas:
"erosols
"pplications
/airsprays Sha%ing creams "nitperspirants +eodorants
Types of formulas:
"erosols
Four Primary Components
)uter Packaging (Can* Fal%e system "cti%e 'ngredients Propellant
Types of formulas:
"erosols Packaging
)uter Packaging
.in plate cans
4 pieces of steel Crown (top* Cylinder (1ody* 0ase (1ottom* coated with epo8y
"luminum cans
)ne9piece construction
Types of formulas:
"erosols Packaging
Fal%e
+iptu1e
Polyethylene
Fal%e 1ody
Main piece
"ctuator
Connects to stem
/ousing
%al%e cup
Types of formulas:
"erosols Formulations
Concentrate Chemistry
"cti%e ingredients Sol%ents (water/alcohol*
/ydrocar1ons /ydrofluorocar1ons +imethyl ether Compressed gas
Propellant
Types of formulas:
"erosols Forms
Product forms
Solutions :mulsions Powder +ispersions Foaming Gels #on9aerosols Pump sprays,,,
"erosol "lternati%es
Chemistry BuiC O
Ihich one is the F"P: 1eauty gadgetL Iand that shoots o8ygen into your skin to smooth; tone & stimulate /and held laser that makes your hair grow :lectronic head1and that rela8es muscles to remo%e wrinkles Ceramic unipolar magnet that controls acne
Creating formulas
Creating Formulas
Preparing .est 0atches
PrepareQ
'dentify Raw Materials +ocument Manufacturing Procedure
-se la1 note1ooks
Print out 1atch sheets Get Raw materials Check :$uipment
Creating Formulas
Preparing .est 0atches
't<s Just like following a recipe,
instead of eggs; milk & flour we use S&S; Cocamidopropyl 1etaine; +M+M /ydantoin &earn trade & '#C' names Pnow why material is used Physical form 9 li$uid; solid Special /andling (MS+S*
'dentify Raw Materials
Creating Formulas
Preparing .est 0atches
Re%iew the manufacturing procedure
"ssem1le the e$uipment
mi8ers; mills; 1alances; heating & cooling
Special e$uipment
/omogeniCers for thick products
Record the SpecificationsQ
Creating Formulas
Preparing .est 0atches
0efore you make the 1atch
Print out 1atch sheets
+ateHRRRRRRRRRR :#.:R 0".C/ S'S: >
Perry's Fabulous Formula 0atch Code 562900 6
10000
'.:M O &). O CodeO +:SCR'P.')# I. K I. "ctual .ime .emp 9999999999 9999999999 99999999999999 9999999999 9999999999 99999999999 9999999999999 99999999999999 9999999999 9999999999 9999999999 1 RRRRR +I3045 +:')#'S:+ I".:R 76,00K 7600,00 RRRRR RRRRR RRRRR RRRRR S+617 Raw Material O1 40,00K 4000,00 RRRRR RRRRR RRRRR 4 RRRRR G&600! Raw Material O 5,50K 550,00 RRRRR RRRRR RRRRR 5 RRRRR 888 Preser%ati%e; color; etc $,s $,s, RRRRR RRRRR RRRRR
Creating Formulas
Preparing .est 0atches
Make a trial 1atch
Peep 1atch notes .imes; temperature; changes Should match specifications
p/ Fiscosity "ppearance / odor
:%aluate/.est
:mulsions should 1e homogenous Formula should function properly
Creating Formulas
Preparing .est 0atches
Make "dJustments
p/ can 1e adJusted with acid or 1ase 'n some systems; %iscosity can 1e adJusted with salt Some 1atches you Just pitchQ
Repeat; Repeat; Repeat,,,
Creating Formulas :
Scale up
Pro1lems to watch out forH
Compositional +e%iations Processing Changes
Mi8ing conditions /eat .ransfer
Raw Material Fariations
Salt content Chemical "cti%ity
Creating Formulas
't worksQ #ow IhatL
Sta1ility .esting :%aluate Filling :$uipment :sta1lish Packaging CongratulationsQ Aou are a cosmetic chemist
Cosmetic Chemistry BuiC O4
Ihich one is the F"&S: headlineL Rich people are more prone to skin cancer Prolonged use of muscle pain cream can kill you Aou can 1ecome addicted to tanning Aour skin is home to o%er 12 species of mites
Free :ntry for first 6 people Iho contactT Scott IenCel (3 0* ! 1 9 6!6 Scott,wenCelUkcc,com
Formulating
Summary
Re%iewed chemical nomenclature Common raw materials Formulation types 0atching & testing
.hanksQ
Formulating
Buestions
httpH//Justyoura%erageJoggler,com
