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Penplotter

Experiments using an old 3D printer as a pen plotter, heavily drawn from https://github.com/brianlow/plotter. Have a look at Flower for the pattern shown below

2D plotter from a Prusa 3D Printer

General operating mode

If you already have PrusaSlicer installed, you’re ready for a quick start

  • Use Prusa Slicer for gcode generation from an existing SVG
    • alternativly: Generate text and shapes directly with the slicer
  • Use SD Card or Pronterface (via USB) to transfer gcode
    • Pronterface offers a 2-click start solution. (Pronterface is a tool which comes with PrusaSlicer if you choose to install it.)

Printer preparation

Slicer Settings

New Filament Profile

  • Copy PLA Profile
  • Change Temperature to something safe (reduce burn risk) like
    • Nozzle: 40°C (above room temperature, if lower, printer will not start)
    • Bed: 20°C
  • Set z hop to 1-2mm (Filament Overrides -> Lift height) - to prevent travel moves from being drawn on uneven paper

New printer profile

  • Move origin by X:-41.40 Y:-39.10 by setting the bed origin to those values (and reduce bed size accordingly) to account for the pen being at an offset
  • Remove intro line (start gcode) as it sometimes collides with paper holder and is unnecessary anyway
  • Removal of mesh bed leveling is not recommended but possible

New print settings

  • Change Infill->Bottom Fill pattern to fill boxes and other shapes interestingly, e.g. with Hilbert curves

Workflow

  • Load SVG into slicer, set height to one layer (0.2mm)
  • Slice gcode
  • Save to disk
  • Remove cap from pen (if not: homing will not work due to crash)
  • Transfer to printer
    • via SD card
    • via Pronterface: Load gcode, click print
      • On main screen: Button "load file"
      • "Print"-Button to start the print
  • Do Live-Z adjustments for perfect line width from the printer's menu. Greatly improves visual appearance of the lines. Too much force adds too much thickness and unevenness, especially at corners

Improvements

  • Add a marlin pause command to Prusa Slicer, so you can adjust the pen or even add the pen right at the start of the plot for adjustment
  • Do a calibration
    • With Pronterface move loaded pen to lower left corner
      • Result: X:41.40 Y:39.10
      • Create Printer Profile with Offset Bed Origin at X:-41.40 Y:-39.10 and place objects on grey bed area
    • Upper right corner is still X=255, Y=209 (obviously) but usable size is smaller
    • z: Moving PINDA probe so that a z=0 equals not touching the paper but 1mm above. Then adjust via live-z to z=-1mm the actual printing. That way bed leveling does not draw but actual drawing does
      • note: printer cannot move below z=0, so live-z has to do it. One cannot set a z offset to go below 0, but positive z-offset can account for paper or tile thickness, e.g., a ceramic tile has 7mm thickness

Issues

  • Use first text marker, then fine line. The other way around, text marker smears
  • Beware of the offset of the different holders. A thinner pen has another y-coordinate than a thicker pen. This creates an offset on the paper if the clamping holder is used instead of the auto-centering
  • Mesh bed leveling should not draw, but an incorrect z of the pen holder can create unwanted lines. Be extra careful when inserting the pens
    • Hack: pause a print and then insert the holder and tighten the screws, adjust z height of the pen
  • Slicing mode->Close holes can help with filigree details
  • Printing on high objects (e.g., a tile of 7mm height)
    • Bed leveling and PINDA will collide with tile, so
      • Generate gcode with a z-offset of 8mm
      • Start print, pause on first line after leveling
      • Add tile
      • Insert and adjust pen to correct height (which is 7mm higher than usual)
    • Perfect bed leveling and repeatability; only attach tile after leveling
    • Printing at 200% speed is also fine

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