water cooling

37 Articles

Testing The Pressure Limits For Glass In Water Cooling Blocks

February 22, 2026 by 18 Comments

Many people who use water cooling in their computer systems like to go full-bore with ‘aquarium’ aesthetic, which includes adding a window to their cooling blocks so that they see the water flowing through the window from behind the case’s window. Traditionally PMMA acrylic is used for these windows, as it’s quite durable and easy to handle.

Using glass offers some advantages over acrylic, but has its own disadvantages, most of all that it’s hard to process, but also that it’s known for shattering quite easily if pushed beyond its limits.

This is why [der8auer] as a manufacturer of such water blocks has now spent a few years investigating the viability of using glass for this purpose. First and foremost is safety, with an early prototype glass water block suddenly shattering without clear cause.

Although normally the water cooling loop is only expected to experience pressures of about 600 mbar, the new glass windows that are now entering mass-production had to be tested to their breaking point. This involves pumping water into a few test blocks until they fail, using the test rig that you can see above.

First the big GPU water block was tested, with the acrylic version breaking at around 8-9 bar, while the glass plate shattered at around 5 bar. The failure mode was also interesting, with the glass plate shattering into fragments, while the two acrylic plates tested failed in a completely different location and manner.

A smaller water block with glass window failed at about 10 bar, demonstrating mostly that smaller glass windows are a lot sturdier. Effectively glass windows in water cooling loops are viable, and they also do not suffer from e.g. discoloration, but you do give up a big chunk of your safety margin if your water cooling loop suffers a major pressurization event. Which of course should never happen, but we’re definitely looking forward to the upcoming field trials of these new water blocks.

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Inside A Compact Intel 3000 W Water-Cooled Power Supply

February 22, 2026 by 10 Comments

Recently [ElecrArc240] got his paws on an Intel-branded 3 kW power supply that apparently had been designed as a reference PSU for servers. At 3 kW in such a compact package air cooling would be rather challenging, so it has a big water block sandwiched between the two beefy PCBs. In the full teardown and analysis video of the PSU we can see the many design decisions made to optimize efficiency and minimize losses to hit its 80 Plus Platinum rating.

For the power input you’d obviously need to provide it with 240 VAC at sufficient amps, which get converted into 12 VDC at a maximum of 250 A. This also highlights why 48 VDC is becoming more common in server applications, as the same amount of power would take only 62.5 A at that higher voltage.

The reverse-engineered schematic shows it using an interleaved totem-pole PFC design with 600 V-rated TI LMG3422 600V GaN FETs in the power stages. After the PFC section we find a phase-shifted full bridge rectifier with OnSemi’s SiC UF3C065030K4S Power N-Channel JFETs.

There were a few oddities in the design, such as the Kelvin source of the SiC JFET being tied into the source, which renders that feature useless. Sadly the performance of the PSU was not characterized before it was torn apart which might have provided some clues here.

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EnderSpark: Convert Your Broken Creality FDM Printer Into An EDM Machine!

January 11, 2026 by 10 Comments

EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining) is one of those specialised manufacturing processes that are traditionally expensive and therefore somewhat underrepresented in the DIY and hacker scenes. It’s with great delight that we present EnderSpark, a solution to not one but two problems. The first problem is how to perform CNC operations on hard-to-machine materials such as hardened metals (without breaking the bank). The second problem is what to do with all those broken and forgotten previous-generation Creality Ender 3D printers we know you have stashed away.

To be honest, there isn’t much to a cheap 3D printer, and once you ditch the bed and extruder assembly, you aren’t left with a lot. Anyway, the first job was to add a 51:1 reduction gearbox between the NEMA 17 motors and the drive pullies, giving the much-needed boost to positional accuracy. Next, the X and Y axes were beefed up with a pair of inexpensive MGN12H linear rails to help them cope with the weight of the water bath.

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PC Watercooling Uses Everything But CNC Machining

December 26, 2025 by 1 Comment

Names and labels are difficult. Take this “3D Printed” water-cooling loop by [Visual Thinker] on YouTube. It undeniably uses 3D printing — but it also uses silicone casting and laser-cut acrylic, too. All of these are essential parts, yet only 3D printing gets top billing in his thumbnail. At least the version we saw, anyway; the A/B testing game YouTubers play means that may change.

Perhaps that’s simply due to the contrast with [Visual Thinker]’s last build, where the “distro plate” that acts to plumb most of the coolant was made of layers of CNC-routed acrylic, held water-tight with O-rings. Not wanting to wait for his next build to be fabricated, and not wanting to take up CNC machining himself, [Visual Thinker] fell back on tools many of us have and know: the 3D printer and laser cutter.

In this project, the end plates of the cooling loop are still clear acrylic, but he’s using a laser cutter to shape them. That means he cannot route out gaps for o-rings like in the last project, so that part gets 3D printed. Sort of. Not trusting the seal a 3D printed gasket would be able to give him, [Visual Thinker] opts to use his 3D printer to create a mold to cast a seal in silicone. Or perhaps “injection-mold” would be a better word than cast; he’s using a large syringe to force the degassed silicone into the mold. The end part is three pieces: a 3D printed spacer holding two acrylic plates, with the cast-silicone gasket keeping the whole thing water-tight to at least 50 psi, 10x the operating pressure of his PC.

After that success, he tries replacing the printed spacer with acrylic for a more transparent look. In that version only temporary shims that are used to form the mold are 3D printed at all, and the rest is acrylic. Even if you’re not building a water-cooled art PC, it’s still a great technique to keep in your back pocket for fluid channeling.

In some ways, this technique is the exact opposite of the copper-pipe steampunk builds we’ve featured previously. Those were all about pretty plumbing, while with a distro plate you hardly need pipes at all. Like any water-cooled project, it’ll need a radiator, which could be a hack in and of itself.

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The Water-Cooled PS3 Sony Never Made

November 6, 2025 by 3 Comments

The Playstation 3 had a dizzying number of variants from its first launch in 2006 to when they stopped selling the slim models over a decade later in 2017. Of all those, you’ve probably never heard of the water-cooled Playstation 3 Pro, for the simple reason that it did not exist until [Zac] of Zac Builds created it in a video to push the limits of the now-vintage hardware.

This hack isn’t totally unique; you used to be able to buy watercooling kits for the PS3, but like the console itself, those have long since left the market. Of course [Zac] is hacking this Playstation 3 in 2025, so he’s doing it in a very modern way: with 3D scanning and CNC machining.

After very, very carefully removing the heat spreaders from the CPU and GPU to replace the dried out thermal paste, [Zac] scans the main board to design mounts for the dual waterblocks. Those mounts are, of course, 3D printed in carbon fibre reinforced nylon. Since the mount is going to be under pressure and rather warm, he anneals the nylon for 24 hours at 85 degrees. 3D printing also comes into play mount the pump and radiator into a handsome case that nearly looks like something Sony could have put out back in the day. That whole workflow seems normal today, but would have been borderline science-fiction with the console was new. .

Note that this is not a 2007 unit. [Zac] picked the newest PS3 he could that was still hackable–each revision got more efficient as the chips moved to smaller architectures, but Sony did eventually lock down the firmware to prevent overclocking. Which is of course the point here: since the stock hardware leaves a lot on the table in terms of thermal management, [Zac] figured there would be great performance boosts available.

As it happens, [Zac] was right about performance boosts– on GPU limited titles, he’s getting upto 50% higher frame rates. (Which makes sense, given he’s overclocking the GPU by about 50%.) Loading times are also much improved with the inevitable HDD to SSD swap.

The last time we featured a watercooled playstation hack was back in 2011, for a PS3 laptop of all things. The modern workflow makes it much easier. It’s been a few years since we last posted a Playstation 3 hack. Perhaps now, as they age into becoming “retro” we’ll see a revival in that category.

Thanks to [Stephen Walters] for the tip, via Yanko Design, which seems to provide an LLM-assisted (or generated) summary of [Zac]’s video.

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Desk Top Peltier-Powered Cloud Chamber Uses Desktop Parts

August 9, 2025 by 6 Comments

There was a time when making a cloud chamber with dry ice and alcohol was one of those ‘rite of passage’ type science projects every nerdy child did. That time may or may not be passed, but we doubt many children are making cloud chambers quite like [Curious Scientist]’s 20 cm x 20 cm Peltier-powered desktop unit.

The dimensions were dictated by the size of the off-the-shelf display case which serves as the chamber, but conveniently enough also allows emplacement of four TEC2-19006 Peltier cooling modules. These are actually “stacked” modules, containing two thermoelectric elements in series — a good thing, since the heat delta required to make a cloud chamber is too great for a single element. Using a single-piece two stage module simplifies the build considerably compared to stacking elements manually.

To carry away all that heat, [Curious Scientist] first tried heatpipe-based CPU coolers, but moved on to CPU water blocks for a quieter, more efficient solution. Using desktop coolers means almost every part here is off the shelf, and it all combines to work as well as we remember the dry-ice version. Like that childhood experiment, there doesn’t seem to be any provision for recycling the condensed alcohol, so eventually the machine will peter out after enough vapor is condensed.

This style of detector isn’t terribly sensitive and so needs to be “seeded” with spicy rocks to see anything interesting, unless an external electric field is applied to encourage nucleation around weaker ion trails. Right now [Curious Scientist] is doing that by rubbing the glass with microfiber to add some static electricity, but if there’s another version, it will have a more hands-off solution.

We’ve seen Peltier-Powered cloud chambers before (albeit without PC parts), but the “dry ice and alcohol” hack is still a going concern. If even that’s too much effort, you could just go make a cup of tea, and watch very, very carefully.

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A PC That Uses Hot Coffee As Coolant

August 7, 2025 by 38 Comments

Modern computers generate a great deal of heat when under load, thus we cool them with fans and sometimes even water cooling systems. [Doug MacDowell] figured that water was alright, but why not use coffee instead?

Someone tell us how [Doug] made this graph look like it’s right out of a 1970s college textbook.
The concept is simple enough — replace water in a PC’s cooling loop with fresh-brewed coffee. [Doug] fully integrated an entire PC build on to the side of a General Electric drip coffee maker. It’s an absolute mess of tubes and wires, but it’s both a PC and a functional coffee maker in one.

The coffee maker percolates coffee as per normal into the carafe, and from there, it’s then pumped through two radiators on top of the PC. From there, it circulates to the water block on top of the CPU, and then back to the carafe on the coffee maker where the cycle repeats. Doug notes the coffee is initially so hot (90 C) that the PC is at risk of crashing, but after 75 minutes circulating through the system, the coffee and CPU sit at an equilibrium temperature of 33 C.

You can’t really drink coffee from this machine. PC water cooling components are not food safe in any way, and [Doug] notes mold will become an issue over time. For short periods at least, though, it’s possible to sort-of-cool your computer with hot, fresh coffee if you really want to do that.

We’ve featured some great hacks of conventional coffee machines over the years, including this fantastic talk at Supercon 2023.

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