The Quick Way to
INSTALL TILE AND STONE FLOORING
2008 FindAnyFloor.com. All rights reserved. All FindAnyFloor.com content (PDFs, text, photographs,
graphics, code, applications) is protected by copyright in the U.S. and other countries.
Installing tile or stone flooring is a great way to enhance the beauty of your home or office. Below are the essential things youll need to
know during your tile or stone installation. For more detailed information on what to do before, during and after your tile installation, see
the full Installing Tile and Stone Flooring guide on FindAnyFloor.com.
drill & mixing paddle
4 or 6 Level
Boxes of tile
Buckets
Carpenters square
Chalk line
Electric drill and mixing
paddle
Felt tipped pen and/or
pencil
Floor scraper
Grout
Grout float and/or rubber
squeegee
Grout sealer and brushes
Hammer or rubber mallet
Knee pads
Large sponges
Manual tile cutter
Notched, grooved and/or
margin trowel(s)
Putty knife
Razor knife
Rubber gloves
Safety goggles
Straight edges
Tape measure
Thin-set mortar
Tile nippers
Tile smoothing stone
Tile spacers or wedges
Underlayment
Wet or dry tile saw,
and/or rod saw
You can install your new tile/stone over existing vinyl or
tile/stone if it is structurally sound and this type of
installation is approved by your manufacturer. Remove all
other old floor coverings if asbestos are NOT present. If
there is evidence of asbestos, install a plywood
underlayment above the existing floor.
Make sure your subfloor is level and free from all dips,
valleys or imperfections (such as paint overspray).
Scrape your subfloor clean. Sand down any high areas.
Use self-leveling compound to level low areas.
Wood subfloors must be structurally sound and free from
movement.
Installing concrete backer unit (CBU) board is highly
recommended for all wood subfloors and when installing
above existing flooring.
Installing a crack isolation underlayment above concrete
subfloors is highly recommended.
Installing a sound abatement underlayment is highly
recommended for multi-story residences.
If desired, undercut door casings in the installation area.
Remove all molding and doors.
Sweep and vacuum your floor before installing your
tile/stone.
Always install safely using the proper safety equipment.
Follow all manufacturer safety recommendations.
Always check with your manufacturer before installing
tile/stone over a radiant heating system.
Use sanded grout for porcelain, ceramic and other tiles
with grout joints larger than 1/8.
Use unsanded grout for stone or other tiles with grout
joints smaller than 1/8.
Leave a expansion perimeter around the entire
installation area for interior and exterior installations.
Leave movement joints every 20-25 for interior
rooms. For exterior installation areas (sunrooms and
patios), leave 3/8 movement joints every 8-12.
Use tile from multiple cases throughout your installation
so that your floor has balanced color variations.
For straight and diagonal cuts, use a wet or dry tile saw.
For curved cuts, use a rail saw or nippers.
When cutting, gently direct the tile/stone towards the
blade. Do not use excessive force.
Use a smoothing stone to soften roughly cut edges.
Always work from the unfinished part of the floor and
NOT from your newly installed tile/stone.
Install your CBU board, crack isolation or sound abatement
underlayment according to the manufacturers
recommendations.
When installing tile, youll begin in the middle of the room and
work towards the walls.
1. Snap a chalk line between the center point of each
opposite wall to divide the room into four equal quadrants.
2. Layout a row of loose tile and spacers in all directions at
the center intersection point. Evaluate the fit. If there are
small cuts (less than ) along walls, move the starting
point down by a tile width and re-snap the chalk lines.
Snap chalk lines to divide the larger quadrants into smaller
(approx. 2 x 3) sections.
3. Mix the thin-set mortar according to the manufacturers
instructions (usually on the bag).
4. Start in one of the center quadrants at the center
intersection point.
5. Using a notched trowel, spread the mortar in a quadrant
area but do not cover your chalk lines. For 16 tiles and
up, back butter each tile with the flat part of your trowel to
ensure 100% coverage.
6. Set the tile into the mortar. Add spacers, if desired. Work
quickly so the thin-set does not skin over.
The Quick Way to INSTALL TILE AND STONE FLOORING Page 2
2008 FindAnyFloor.com. All rights reserved. All FindAnyFloor.com content (PDFs, text, photographs,
graphics, code, applications) is protected by copyright in the U.S. and other countries.
7. Upon completion of each quadrant section, tap tiles into
the mortar with a rubber mallet. Use a level to ensure all
tiles are level and flush with each other.
8. Remove any mortar that is in joints with margin trowel.
Clean mortar from the face of tiles with a damp sponge.
9. Repeat steps 3 through 8 for the rest of the floor. Ensure
each section grid is straight with the walls and level so that
your whole floor turns out well.
Discard the mortar as it gets tacky (which usually happens
after about 30 minutes) and prepare a new batch.
10. Let the mortar set and cure according to the
manufacturers recommendations (usually 48 to 72 hours).
Once the mortar has set, its time to grout the joints.
1. Remove all spacers throughout the floor. Vacuum or
sweep the floor, if necessary. Remove any high spots in
the mortar between each tile.
2. Apply a presealer if required by your manufacturer (such
as for concrete pavers or Saltillo). Follow all the
manufacturers application instructions.
3. Mix the grout according to the manufacturers instructions.
Only mix as much grout as youll use in 30 minutes.
Always wear rubber gloves and any other equipment as
recommended by the grout manufacturer.
4. Start in one corner of the room. Spread the grout across
the face of the tile and force down into each joint with a
squeegee or rubber grout float. Scrape away excess grout
from the face of the tile.
Do not spread too much at a time as you do not want the
grout to be too hard to clean off the surface of the tile.
Discard grout after 30 minutes or when it becomes stiff.
Never add water to soften stiffening grout.
5. Leave all movement joints ungrouted. You will fill these
later with caulk.
You can begin cleaning up the floor as soon as the grout
begins to set, usually 15 to 20 minutes after youve applied it.
1. With a sponge and bucket of clean water, gently wipe
away all grout from the face of the tile. Do NOT gouge the
grout from the joints. Avoid dripping water into the grout
joints during cleaning. Replace the water as it gets dirty.
Safety is a major concern when installing tile or stone on stairs.
For installation instructions and safety information, see the full
Installing Tile and Stone Flooring guide on
FindAnyFloor.com.
When installing around brickwork (such as fireplaces) you can:
Undercut the brickwork and install tile underneath. The
brickwork will cover all expansion spacing.
Install flush with brickwork and use end molding to hide
the expansion spacing.
Use a matching flexible caulk to fill all movement joints
throughout the floor.
Let the entire floor cure for 72 hours. Do not walk excessively
or put anything on the newly tiled floor during this time.
Once your floor has cured, you can install your transition
pieces to hide your expansion spacing at doorways as well as
transition to other types of flooring. The following transition
pieces can be used:
Bullnose Tile The rounded edge provides a smooth
transition to similar height floors.
T-Molding For similar height floors (such as
hardwood).
Reducer Strip For lower height floors (such as vinyl).
End Molding/Square Nose/Universal Edge For
carpet, similar height floors or outside threshold
transitions; also used around brickwork.
Tile transitions are either glued to the subfloor with a quality
adhesive or secured using trim tracks.
Install all wall base, shoe base and quarter round to hide the
expansion spacing around the perimeter of the room.
Sealing helps protect the grout as well as prevent stains,
mildew and mold. Sealing is critical for tile or stone installed in
wet areas such a bathrooms, kitchens or outdoors. Always
follow your tile manufacturers recommendations when
choosing a sealant.
