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Definition Parameters

The document defines key wave and wind parameters that are output from the waveclimate.com website, including significant wave height, mean wave direction, mean wave period, zero-crossing wave period, peak wave period, wind speed, and wind direction. These parameters are calculated from the 1-dimensional energy density spectrum using specific mathematical formulas. The document also describes how waveclimate.com provides parameters separately for wind-sea and swell portions of the spectrum.

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Oğuzcan Şahin
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19 views1 page

Definition Parameters

The document defines key wave and wind parameters that are output from the waveclimate.com website, including significant wave height, mean wave direction, mean wave period, zero-crossing wave period, peak wave period, wind speed, and wind direction. These parameters are calculated from the 1-dimensional energy density spectrum using specific mathematical formulas. The document also describes how waveclimate.com provides parameters separately for wind-sea and swell portions of the spectrum.

Uploaded by

Oğuzcan Şahin
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as DOC, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Definition of wave and wind parameters

Output parameters available in waveclimate.com are

 Significant wave height (m)


 Mean wave direction (nautical degrees)
 Mean wave period (s)
 Zero-crossing wave period (s)
 Peak wave period (s)
 Wind speed (m/s)
 Wind direction (nautical degrees)

Wave parameters are found by integrating the 1-dimensional energy density


spectrum given per frequency bin.

Significant wave height and wave direction are defined as:

 0  tan 1
 F ( f ) sin( ( f ))df
Hs  4  F ( f )df
 F ( f ) cos( ( f ))df
Mean wave period and zero-crossing wave period are defined as:

Tm 
 f F ( f ) df
1

Tz 
 F ( f )df
 F ( f )df f 2
F ( f )df

Above, f denotes the frequency in Hz, F ( f ) the sea surface variance spectrum
[in m2/Hz] in f and  ( f ) the mean wave direction in f .

The peak wave period Tp is not integrated but simply found as the
reciprocal value of the spectral frequency for which the wave
spectrum reaches its maximum.

Apart from wave parameters integrated from the total wave spectrum,
waveclimate.com offers parameters describing wind-sea and swell separately.
Wave height, wave period and wave direction can be based on the swell part or on
the wind-sea part of the spectrum. A Donelan-Pearson wave spectrum, found from
wind speed and wave age, is taken to be the wind-sea part of the spectrum. The
swell part of the spectrum equals the total spectrum minus the wind-sea of the
spectrum.

For details on this wind-sea/swell splitter, please refer to

Mastenbroek, C., Valk, C.F. de, A semiparametric algorithm to retrieve ocean


wave spectra from synthetic aperture radar. Journal of Geophysical Research,
Vol. 105, No. C2, p. 3497-3516 (2000).

Wind speed is defined as the hourly average at 10m above sea level. Both wind
direction and wave direction follow the nautical convention, i.e. ‘coming
from’ relative to true north positive clockwise (0 degrees means from north to
south and 90 degrees means from east to west).

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