S'UARK

SAILING
MANUAL

S'VARKBOATS
-Po. Box2360. IndustrialStreetr Newcastle,PA 10102
Phone(412)658-6555
 This book is written esPe-
cially for the person that has
had no previous exPerience
with the art of sailing' It is
written as an introduction
only to the art of sailing. The
following instructions will get
you safely out and back in,
with only a few basic maneu-
versin between.

Introduction . .. -..3
KnotstoKnow .....6
Let's Sound Like a Sailor It
Here's How It Works t5
Dry Run rB
O.K.,Shoveoff . - -23
Allsecure . . .3I

When you have completed

this booklet, when you have
been out on the water several
times, you will be ready for
larger and more detailed
books. You will have joined
the ranks.
 No, you're not ready for this craft yet.
You will be starting with the very smallest of
boats. The boat shown above is quite interest-
ing though, in that it wears just about every
size and shape of sail ever conceived . . . the
picturesque brigantine.
Powerboats must travel through two ob-
structing elements-water and air. While water
provides the bouyancy, it is still an obstruc-
tion that needs to be "cut through" with a
minimum of friction and disturbance. Air is
also an obstruction. A strong wind blowing
against the side of the boat will set it off
course? and slow it down when headed directlv
into the wind.
 A sailboat, on the other hand, has onlY
one obstructing element, water. Air is not a
hinderance, but rather a source of power. It's
only source of power.

So now it is up to us to harness this power.

Ve must acquire the skills necessary to use
the wind to our best advantage.

You will become acquainted

gradually
with the many different types of sails and
riggings, and what advantage one has over the
other. But for now \,vewill stick to the lateen
rig, (one triangle sail), and sloop rig, (main-
sail and jib). Both of these are represented in
the SNARK lineup.

In fact, as you graduate from one boat to

another, all of them slightly larger and faster,
you may still be sailing the SNARK sloop
or lateen rig you are now starting with. They
are by far the most commonly seen sails on
any lake.

You've made a wise purchase that will pro-

vide you and your family years of outdoor fun.
W'e thank you for your confidence in us and
encourage you to call us at l-800-24SNARK if
you have questions or need help on any facet
of your new SNARK boat.
 KITOTS
lo Ktr0w
Before we go any further, let's take time
to leam some of the basic knots. Among the
hundredsof knots that can be tied only a few
are really necessaryat this point. Let me em-
phasize "necessary". Learn to tie them auto-
matically, and learn to tie them fast. There
will be many occasionswhere speedin tying
and untying a knot could make the difference
in stayingdry or getting an unexpecteddip.
First, the part of the rope that is attached
to something(bow-eye,cleat, etc.) is called
the standing part. Tlte otlter end is calledthe
free end or short end. A biglit is the part
betweenthe ends.
The Bowline, SquareKnot and CloveHitch
are your three most important knots and will
s u f f i c ei n m o s t o f y o u r k n o t s i t u a t i o n s .
THE BOWLINE (bo-lin)

Tl-re great advantageof the bowline is that

it can be easily untied no matter how much
strain has been put on it. It can be used for
tying up to a dock, for tying to the ring of a
mouring bouy. First, throw a loop in the
rope, free end over standingend, passfree end
under the standing end and over and down
through the loop. Theseinstructionsseemim-
possible even to me, but the drawings will
clear it up. This knot is recommended for
tying halyards to sails and main sheet to the
tiller.

THE REEF/
O R S Q U A R EK N O T

This all purpose knot is probably kuown

by almost everyone. But it is surprisingltow
4
many people tie it wrong, and wind up with a
"granny knot" which is almost worthless.
Simply follow the drawing, noticing that the :S# ><
important part is that each line follows itself
back through the loop, side by side, parallel
to eachother. JzQ:
:Sff
THE CLOVEHITCH

Tltis is a very useful knot when tying up

to a dock, temporarily. It is a very quick knot
to form but needs a constant strain to be
completely safe. Throw a loop over the post
with the free end underneath. Repeat the
same operation, again keeping the free end
under the second loop. That's it. A third
and fourth loop can be added for extra
security. (Ensure the loops are stacked on
top of each other, and not spread out
verticallv.)

ROUNDTURN AND HALF HITCH

This is the knot to use when tying to a

dock. Just two upward loops around the post,
throw the free end over standing end and
back under crossover. Repeat this as many
times as you think necessary.
 THE STIPPERY HITCH

Tlris is a great one to know for handling

your mainsheet. When everything is under
control and you want to tie down the main-
sail while adjusting the jib, throw this hitch
around your cleat. It will hold as long as nec-
essary,but if a suddengust of wind comesup,
a tug on the free end will have your mainsheet
clear and running.

THE FIGURE EIGHT KNOT

This knot is nothing more than making a

lump in rope to prevent it from running out
through a cleat or pulley. It's easy to do and
un-do. Put one of these knots at the end of
your jib sheetsand mainsheet.

HANGING A COIL

Once you have raised your mainsail or jib

what happens to the excesshalyard? Get it
out of the way by simply coiling it up, pass
the top of first coil through coil, give a single
twist and hang this small loop on cleat horn.
Not bad. huh!
 lotccr lig

BOOT

l0
[ET'S
SOUIID
LIKESAITORS
ABAFT: Toward the stern. The tiller is abaft the mast.
ABEAM: At right anglesto the fore-and-aftcenterlineof
the boat. Off the beam or on the side of the boat.
BACKSTAYS: Rope or wire cable leading aft from the
mast for the purposeof supporting this spar.
BALLAST: Heavy material, lead or iron, placed in the
bottom of some boats to give stability.
BEAM: The maximum width measurementof a vessel.
BEARING: The direction of one object from another.
BEAT: To sail to windward.
BEND: To secureor to make fast a sail to a spar. Also the
knot by which one rope is made fast to another.
BILGE: Bottom part of the hull adjacentto the keel.
BROACH: A vesselrunning downwind swingsbroadside
to the wind. Dangerousin high seas.
CHAIN PLATES: Metal plates bolted to the side of the
boat to which the staysare attached.
CHOCK: A metal casting, usually at the bow, through
which the mooring line is led.
CLEAT: A wood or metal fitting with horns to which
lines are secured.Cam or jam cleatsprovide quick release.
CLEW: The lower, aft corner of a sail.
CLOSE HAULED: Sailingas closeto the wind as possible
without luffing. Sails pulled in tight.
COAMING: Raised framework or railing around the
cockpit to keep out water.
COCKPIT: Open area behind the mast where crew and
skipper sit. Some are self-draining. (self-bailing).

II
 I

CRINGLE: A metal or rope eye sewn into the sail at

clew, tack or head, to which sheet or halyard is attached
by meansof a shackle.
CUDDY: A decked shelter, smaller than the cabin, for
protection of the crew aft of the mast.
DAGGERBOARD: A metal or wooden board extending "
through a boat's bottom; similar to a centerboard.
DOWNHAUL: Line attached to the boom which pulls
down the mainsail to irnprove its shapewhen hoisted.
DRAFT: The depth of water a boat requiresto float free
of the bottom.
EASE: To let out or slack any line as in easing the
sheet so as to relieve the pressureon the sail and perhaps
spill some wind.
EBB: Ebb tide is falling from high to low. Ebb current is
flowing out to sea.Oppositeis flood.
FAIRTEAD: An eyelet fitting which changesthe direc-
tion of a sheetor halyard led thiough it.
FETCH: A boat sailing to windward can fetch its objec-
tive without havingto make an additional tack.
FID: A wood marlinespike,or a block at the heel of the
mastholdingit in place.
FOOT: Lower edgeof a sail.
FRAMES: The ribs of the hull to which planking is at-
tached. Ribs terminate at the keel and at the deck.
FREE: Sailingwith the wind aft.
FREEBOARD: That part of the vesselabove the water.
FURL: To roll a sailsnuglyon boom or yard.
GAFF: A spar used to support the head of the mainsail,
hencegaff-rigged,an older type of rigging.
GARBOARD: (Or strake).Hull planks nearestthe keel.
GENOA: A large, overlappingjib first introduced in an
international6-meterrace at Genoa,Italy.
GOOSENECK: A metal fitting, usually a universaljoint,
securingthe boom to the mast.
GUDGEON: An eye fitting into which the rudder'spin-
ties are inserted. Located on the transom of small sai[-
boats.

t2
GUNWALE: The rail of the boat at deck level.
HALYARD: Line or wire used to hoist sails.
HARD-A-LEE: Final command sounded as a boat begins
to come about. First commandis "Ready about".
HATCH: An opening in the deck, with a cover,for access
to the cabin below.
HEAD: The top corner of a sail. Also a toilet.
HEADSTAY: The forward stay supportingthe mast.Also
calledjibstay or forestay.Someboats haveboth.
HEAD-TO-WIND: Bow headed into the wind, sails luf-
fing.
HEADWAY: Forward motion of the boat'
HEEL: The tilt or tipping action causedby wind.
HELM: The rudder or tiller steeringthe boat.
HIKE: To climb or lean out to windward, counteracting
excessiveheelingof the hull.
IRONS: When tacking, a boat that will not come about
but lays head-to-windis said to be in irons.
JIBE: To changetacks by turning away from the wind.
JIBSTAY: Forward stay on which the jib is hoisted.
JIGGER: The shorter mast aft on a yawl or ketch.
KEDGE: A small anchor.
KEEL: The lowest part of the hull, the backbone of the
ship, running its entire length.
LEEWARD: Away from the direction of the wind.
LEECH: The after edgeof a sail.
LUFF: Forward edgeof a sail.Also to sail the boat closer
to the wind so air will spill from the sails and cause them
to flap.
MARTINESPIKE: A pointed wooden or metal instru-
ment used to open up strands of rope or wire. Used for
splicing.
MIZZENz The shorter mast aft on a yawl or ketch.
MOORING: The chain or rope, buoy and anchor to
which a boat is securedwhen not sailing.
OFF THE WIND: Sailing any courseexcept one to wind-
ward, which is called "on the wind".

l3
 OUTHAUL: Line and fitting usedto secureclew of a sail.
OVERSTAND: To sail beyond an object,suchas a buoy.
PAINTER: Short line used to securethe bow to a land-
Ing.
PINCH: To saila boat too closeto the wind.
POINTING: Sailingcloseto the wind.
PORT: The left side of the boat looking foward.
PRAM: Rectangulardinghy with squarebow.
QUARTER: Side of boat aft of the beam, forward of
stern.
REEVE: To passlines through block or fairlead.
ROACH: Outward curveof the leechof a sail.
RUNNING: Sailingbeforethe wind.
SHACKLE: A U-shapedmetal fitting with a pin or screw
acrossthe open end, usedto join sheetsto sails.
SHEAVE: The wheelinsidea block.
SHEET: Line usedto trim sails.
SHROUDS: Wiresor ropessupportingthe mast.
SPAR: Term for masts,booms,spinnakerpoles,etc.
SPREADER: Horizontal strut on the mast.for its sup-
port.
STARBOARD: The rieht side of the boat lookine for-
ward.
TACK: Lower, I'orward corner of a triangularsail. Also a
boat tacks when it changesits direction and the angle at
w h i c h t h e w i r r ds t r i k e si t s l a i l s .
TENDER: A sailboatlacking stability, oppositeof stiff.
TILLER: A wooden bar fitting to the rudder, for stecr-
lng.
TRANSOM: The stern facing of the hull.
TRAVELER: Nletalrod at stern for trimming mainsail.
TRIM: To set the sailsat the correct angleto the wind.
VANG: A line to steadythe boom when off the wind.
WHISKER-POLE: A light pole or stick extending from
the mast and used to hold the jib out when off the wind.
WINDWARD: Toward the wind, opposedto leeward.

l4
HERB'S
HOWIT
WORKS

If you don't alreadyknow how a boat can

sail into the wind, don't be discouraged.It is,
by far, the most asked question when speak-
ing with non-sailing people. Turn the page
very, very quickly.

l5
 There! If you were closeenoughyou have
alreadyfelt the wind in your face. Soon it will
get more exciting though. The many times
you have flown a kite you have held the string
that keeps the kite from blowrng into the rl
next country. While you are holding this \
I
I

string the wind can only force the kite in two

directions. Down at first, then with increasing
skill, it starts going up.

It's primarily the samewith sailing.In lieu

of the string you have the keel of your
boat, the center board and the rudder. These
keep you and your boat from slipping side-
ways in the water. So here, too, there are only
two directions to go. No, don't eventhink of
going down. Your two directions are forward
or backward. As difficult as it is, you may get

l6
 started backward once or twice. The pointed
bow of your boat was designed to slice
through the water, forward. The slant of your
sail against the direction of the winds deter-
mines the speed and list of your boat. You
and the rudder set the course. You and your
I sail set the speed. The wind does all the rest
I while you just go for the ride.

You are being pushed along by the wind.

True enough,but there'seven more. The same
law of aerodynamicsthat acts on an airplane
wing, is also acting on your sail. As the wind
passesyour sail, its' lee side is being pulled
just as an airplane wing is being pulled up.
This is happening most of the time. The only
exception is when you are sailing directly
with the wind with your sail at right angle to
the wind direction. Then you are getting the
more obvious pushingaction only.

l7
DRYRUIT
No, I'm not trying to keep you away from
the water. But from the time your boat is
delivereduntil you can get to the water, you
can get a lot of good practice. Better actually,
than on the water.

Rig your boat except the centerboard and

take it to the back yard. Placeit on a blanket
to preventgrassstainsasyou move it about'

First, what direction is the wind coming

from? Smoke, blowing leaves, even a short
length of yarn tied to the top of the mast will
give you ample clues.Faceyour boat into the

For purposesof simple

diagrams,the jib sail
is not always shown.
In general,the
jib parallelsthe
mainsail.

t8
wind, raise the mainsail and jib sail. The sail
will now flap in the wind (luff), even with the
mainsheetpulled taut.

Loosen the mainsheet and lift the stern of

your boat to angle the wind at about 45".
With no tension on the mainsheet the sail will
continue to luff in the direction of the wind.
Pulling in the mainsheet will bring the first
tug of wind as it billows out your sail. If you
were on water.you would already be under-
way.

Continue to move your boat at different WIND

angles until you are broadside to the wind.
Experiment at each step with the mainsheet.

45" angleto wind

sailflapping
mairtsheet loose tnaittsheet pulled in
and sail floppirtg artd sail filled

t9
Get the feel of what the wind can do- Feel the
different pressuresas you slackenand tighten
the mainsheet.See what I mean? With your
boat resting solidly on the ground you are
getting the feel of the winds force even more
than if you were slipping around on the WIND
water.

The positions you have just tried have

taken you through the toughest, (into the
wind) to the easiest(reaching) sailing at rigltt
anglesto the wind. Now let's try what would
seem the easiest,but is often tricky, sailing
(running) with the wind. With the wind at Running
your stern you can sail with boom on either
the port or starboard side and keep right on
going . . . and going . . . and going. At some
point you must tum, however. And, as you

WIND

ACCIDENTAL"JIBE'' - DANGEROUS

CORRECT"JIBE'' PROCEDURE

Pull
Sail
In
turn, you will eventually reach a point where
the wind will be hitting practically both sides
of the sail. When the wind does reach the
back edge (leech) of the sail, it will bring the
boom about in a suddensweepingaction that
could easily clear the deck of . . . YOU. This
is called a jibe, when it is done purposely,it is
a neat manuever.But when it sneaksup on
you accidentally, it is a very real hazard.
Practice the jibe by bringing the boom in with
the main sheet till its over the corner of the
boat. Make your turn and againreleaseboom
to the opposite side.Well, by now you should
be ready for the water . . . after you practice
thesedry runs a few more times.

THESE ARE YOUR BASIC SAILING POSITIONS.

wtNn
I

\0
BEATING - Sail in over the
corner of the boat. You're
sailing tc,tward the wind at
about a 45" angle.

a? REACHING - Sail halfway

out. You're sailingacrossthe
wind.

nn
\itt
RUNNING - Sail all the way

\r out. You're sailing with the

wind.

LUFFING - Boat pointed into

the wind. You can also luff
while Beating or Reachingby
Ietting the main sailout.
2l
 WIND

Tacking, as you know by now, is just a

series of turns, coming about with your \
destination off either your port or starboard
quarter. Like the zig-zag stitch on a sewing
machine.
Most new sailors have some problems in
learning to tack. Usually they do one of two \./
things. I ) Head too close to the wind causing
the sails to luff and the boat to slow down or
stop and 2) Head too far away from the wind
and actually sail on a reach back and forth
acrossthe wind. In this case,they don't reach \\t

their upwind objective. Simple Solution -

-t

when tacking up wind sail as close to the wind

as you can without the sails luffing. Don't be
afraid to head up into the wind till the sail ,,
starts to luff then head away till your sails are
full of wind again. It doesn't hurt a bit and
you'll know you're at the right angle of sail- v
ing. Do this every couple minutes till you get
the feel for it.

Easy, isn't it!

 Occasionally, during the process of tacking
too slowly, a condition will arise when your
boat will become completely motionless.You
have drifted to a stop just as you came into
the wind and your sail luffed. This can be
frustrating to say the least. To get out of this
situation, quickly kick the tiller to one side or
the other, bringing the bow around so that
you are again angling into the wind. Pull in
your mainsheet and you are again on course.
When this situation happens your boat is said
to be "in irons." When in irons you may find
yourself drifting backwards. In this case
simply put your tiller over to one side.You'll
back around a turn. When you've backed
around so the wind is at an angle, again
straighten your tiller, pull in the mainsheet
In lrons
and you're off again.
Boat Difting
By now you should be a confirmed sailor Backwards
and'well on your way to masteringthe art of
sailing. I
There are many fine books available from
yourmarine dealeror book shop on our sport.
Who knows, in a few years you may be
racing for the olympic sailing team or de-
fending the America's Cup.
For the time being though, sit back, relax
and enjoy. That's what sailings all about.
Thanks for listening and oh yes. Slack Main Sheet
CONGRATULATIONS CAPTAIN. Steer Backwards

Straighten Rudder
Pull in Sail
and away you go.

23
 Before you
venture on the
water, maY I Don't shove off unless there is
ask you to someone around to keeP an eye
absolutelY on you and get help if you need
obey these it.
4 simple
rules.

Even if you're an excellent swim-

mer, WEAR THAT LIFE PRE-
SERVER! It's good common
senseand is also the law !

Don't go out for the first time if

there is an off shore breeze. As
you go sailing off into the brinY
deep your inexperiencemay find
you without a way back. If Pos-
sible always sail up wind first.
Then you can run back with ease.

Always stay with your boat no

matter what happens. Even cap-
sized boats float people
don't.

24
o.k You have shown
outstandingpatience.I

VE
SHO want to thank you for
ignoring that impulse
to go out . . . and get
OFF wet.

25
 Put your boat into the water at a beachor
someplace where it is sliallow - no more than
two or three feet deep. Lower the center-
board. Attach the rudder and tiller. After hook this loop
on cleat
making sure the mainsheetis loose, raise the
mainsail and jib, securing halyard to mast WIND
cleat, coil excessline and hang on cleat horn
as shown in margin. Secure the halyard to
II
mast cleat, coil and hang extra halyard line as I
shown in margin.

WIND

I
Make a final check that all lines are where
they are supposedto be. t
I

As you hop on, push the bow to one side or

the other so that the wind is coming from the
side.Remember,if you're headeddirectly into
the wind you won't go anywhere. Now pull
the main sheet until the sail fil,s, grab the
tiller, and skipper, you're underway. Tlte
natural tendency of the boat is to come up
a
,
into the wind (luff). You counteractthis with
the rudder to keep your boat at an angle to
the wind and your sails full of wind. Remem-
ber the sails are your motor and they must be
full of wind to move your boat. If your sails
are luffing - you're in neutral and won't go. straight
course
26
 Your first discoverywill be that you must
sit on the high side or windward side of the
boat. Not only becausethe boom is on the WIND
other side, but your weight is neededto help
balancethe boat. You may also haveto adjust It
your weight forward or aft, to ht your parti-
cular craft. In any event, be ready to adjust
I
FAST. With mainsail under control, you can PROPER SAIL TRIM
now adjust the jib. Pull jibsheet to same side
of boat the boom is riding on, trim sail so that
Beatiig
billowing jib is at approximately the same
angle as mainsail. If the jib is drawn too tight,
it will stop an even flow of air between jib
and mainsail, and backwind the mainsail. It
will feel as though you're dragging a sea
anchor.Well, almost anyway.
If wind is directly behind you - you can
"wing" the jib out on the opposite side from
the main as shown by the dotted line.

'Q,

'er

21 z '4'-
Boatsfloat . . . PeoPledon'l
27
 As the rapture leaves and you again discovtr
whereyou are, gently experimentwith the tiller. Push
it away from you and pull it toward you. Notice each
reaction. Next, easeoff on the mainsheet,then bring
it in again. Remember each of these reactions and
store them for immediate reference.If you feel the
boat listing dangerously, push the tiller away from
you-steering into the wind, or easeoff on the main-
sheet. Either one will spill some wind from the sail
and will bring the boat back uP.
Try coming about. Push the tiller away from you
and head into the wind. The sail will luff for a
moment then shift to the oppositeside of the boat. Re-
member to be polite, shift sides with the boom or
both of you may take a sudden dip. As soon as the
sail has filled with wind on the other side,straighten
the rudder on your new course.
Eventually, with any small boat, you are going to
capsize.Come to think of it, this warning may al- WIND
ready be a few moments too late. But anyway, as
further practice, why don't you intentionally capsize
your boat and then bring her upright again' You will
be expecting it and can handleyourself calmly. Then
when it happensunexpectedlyyour reactionswill be

In a sailboatyou put on the "brqkes" to stop by either

28
 somewhat instinctive. Once capsized,swing
the bow
into the wind, make sure the mainsheetis
loose,place
one hand on the centerboard,grasp the
upper gun_
wale with the other hand and lean Lack. you
will be
pleasantly surprisedand relieved
when you discover
how easy it is to right your boat, climb
aboard and
start all over again.
Well, you've been out quite awhile now. Time
to
be getting back. Now, now . . . that's not the
attitude.
You have already made the maneuversin your
back_
yard, remember?
You have been practicing coming about
and that,s
all there is to it. Except that you prt on your
brakes
when you want to stop. The brake on your
sailboatis
right there in your hand. Let go of the mainsheet
and
you coast to a stop. So let's go
to a dock, into the
WIND I wind. You can come about from either direction or
But, whatevercourseyou plan, plan
- sailsluffing
at the time you arrive.
ngs for each approach, notice the
er angle. Go slowly at first until you
skill. When you have docked several
nain completely at ease.

:ail isflapping

.-t
rv_J___
mninrheot pol---^s \

r
G-::':-'"*'reteased

coast to a stop F___

29
 In the diagram below, the boat just turns to the
left, facing into the wind just before touching the
beach causingthe sail to luff and "brake."

boat drifts gentlY onto beach

Landing on the windward side of a dock is

always more difficult. Notice which way the
waves are rolling, proceed as before, but plan
to let the sail luff some distance from the
dock and quietly drift in to the landing. Of
course. if the wind dies out completely, you
can lie down in your boat, paddle with your
arms and kick with your feet. It will be slow,
but it will get You back to shore'

WIND

the sailhas swungover

to the other side in a iibe

30
-Po. Box2360r Industrialstreet.NewCastle,PA 10102
Phone(412)658-6555