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PF TEK

This is copied from PSYLOCBYE FANATICUS' site

http://www.fanaticus.com/pf-tek.htm. This site no longer seems
to be there. So in the interest of "freedom of information" here
ya go. Required reading. I take no credit for this except
knowing how to copy and paste.

Spore Study

Head Shop Links

Seeds Glorious Seeds

INTRODUCTION
The PF TEK is basically a brown rice method with an improved formula by using vermiculite as a base
and adding pulverized brown rice. The secret is in the vermiculite. When mycelium is cultured in just
grain, the mycelium turns into a mass with little air space. But when grown with vermiculite, the
mycelial threads stretch across space. The important thing about the PF TEK, is that it copies nature.
Instead of the usual cloning of mushroom tissue and growing mushrooms from that, a mass spore
inoculation is employed directly to the fruiting substrate. That way, the genotype remains complete.
Senescence (mutating and ceased fruiting) is no longer a problem. The spores insure a never ending
succession of fungus, with all the power of the spores reproductive ability intact.

OVERVIEW OF PF TECHNIQUES
1. Brown rice powder, vermiculite and distilled water are mixed and loaded into a 1/2 pint jar, which is
steam sterilized. The jar is then inoculated by the spore syringe.

2. After the substrate cake in the jar colonizes and begins to show signs of fruiting, the cake is released
from the jar and placed into the dual chambered terrarium to fruit.

3. A mature mushroom is decapitated and spore printed in a jar.

4. Spore syringes are prepared with the spore print jar to begin another life cycle.

BASIC MATERIALS LIST FOR CULTIVATION

PF jar preparation and culturing (Stage one) (Domestic products - supermarket
- department - drugstore - hardware store)
1. Measuring cups and spoons
2. Large pot for steaming
3. Shoulderless half-pint jars with lids (Kerr or Ball)
4. Organic brown rice flour (organic food stores)
5. Horticultural vermiculite (medium or fine grade - not powdery)
6. Distilled or filtered drinking water
7. Heavy duty tin foil
8. Heavy duty (professional grade) masking tape
9. Ice pick (for punching needle holes in the culture jar lid)

Mushroom growing (Stage two) Pet shop - Hardware store

1. 10 gallon aquarium
2. Cut piece of transparent plastic (Plexiglas) - (terrarium chamber partition)
3. Strips of wood with connectors and screws (terrarium lid)
4. Plastic film and thumb tacks (terrarium lid)
5. Small wall type thermometer
6. "All purpose" water spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle (hardware and grocery stores). Procure
one that gives a good strong spray for instant humidification. Avoid recycled kitchen product sprayers.
This is a critical piece of equipment. Only a good quality sprayer (a couple of dollars at a hardware
store) can immediately supercharge the dual chambered terrarium with high humidity.
7. Wire screen - plastic containers - plastic bags - (drying mushrooms)
8. DESICCANT (drying mushrooms) (scientific - chemical - lab supply)

Spore printing and spore syringe making (Stage three)

1. Micro curved cuticle (finger nail) scissors (cosmetics - drug store)
2. Denatured alcohol (fuel - hardware stores)
3. Tequila shot glass and eye dropper (sterilizing and flaming)
4. Glass stirring rod (Scientific supply)
5. Plastic syringes (10cc or bigger) and 18 gauge 1 1/2 inch needles. Large sized syringes are good
(20cc - 65cc) as well as extra long needles if available. (Retail medical - health supply - pharmacies -
drug stores - scientific and lab supply)

PF SUBSTRATE FORMULATION
Jars and glasses to be used with this technique are 1/2 pint capacity (8 ounces) - (250 milliliters). They
must have tapered sides and no shoulders, otherwise the fungus cakes won't easily come out of the jars.

Appropriate jars; (source - super markets and hardware stores)

1. KERR wide mouth half pint canning jar - preferable

2. BALL wide mouth half pint (similar to the KERR wide mouth half pint) - preferable
3. BALL regular mouth half pint canning jar
4. BALL half pint jelly jar
5. 1/2 pint (250 ml) capacity drinking glasses (tapered sides)

NOTE: Even though the regular mouth BALL half pint and the regular mouth KERR half pint look
similar, the KERR is not tapered.

1/8 cup of brown rice powder (Health food stores and co-ops)
1/2 - 2/3 cup of horticultural vermiculite (medium grade) (garden centers and hardware)
40-45 cc's (milliliters) of water or (a little less than 1/4 cup) (1&1/2 ounces) (3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon)

Maximum fruiting formula:

1/4 cup of brown rice powder
1/2 cup of vermiculite
60 cc's water

Not all vermiculite is the same. The coarseness varies quite considerably among different brands. The
coarser type will hold less water than the finer type which will alter the water holding capacity. If the
formulation (water content) results in a really wet or sloppy substrate, use less water. Keep notes on
formulas for replicating the substrate formula that fruits the best.

The above formulas utilize the finer type of vermiculite. If the above maximum fruiting formula is used
with the finer type of vermiculite, the jar lid should be loose during incubation (see - "The canning jar lid
- loose or tight").

The finer type of vermiculite is recommended over the coarser type because it holds more water. To
ascertain the size of the vermiculite particles, observe them under a photo magnifier next to a millimeter
ruler. The finer type of vermiculite has particles averaging around 1 millimeter across (some larger and
some smaller). The coarser type has particles averaging around 4 or 5 millimeters across and up to 8
millimeters. Stores usually carry one type. Plus, there will be regional differences in the different brands
of vermiculite. Shop around and try to get both types to compare.

To make homemade brown rice powder, place some regular brown rice in a small canister type coffee
bean grinder and grind it to fine powder. Freshly ground brown rice is recommended over prepackaged
type. The freshness sometimes makes a big difference.

If the measuring cup specs aren't true, the formulas will be off, setting up certain failure or diminished
growth. Check the cup measurers this way: 1 cup is 237 milliliters which is 1/2 pint or 8 liquid ounces
(English measurement). There are 2 cups in a pint, 2 pints in a quart and 4 cups in a quart.

Prepare the canning lid by placing it with the rubber

sealing edge upwards on a supporting surface and
with a sharpened 3 penny nail (held with vise grip
pliers), punch 4 holes inside the periphery of the
rubber sealing edge.

When using two piece canning jar lids, the inner lid
(with the rubber edges up) rests on the top of the jar
and when the lid band is screwed off, the lid remains
resting on the jar top. To make the lid and band act
as one lid, place pieces of masking tape on the lid
attaching the band to the lid. Then, the lid can be
adjusted for air ventilation and looseness like an
ordinary one piece jar lid.

PF SUBSTRATE JAR PREPARATION

Steam sterilizing PF substrate jars with regular cookware is possible because there is no grain to cook up
and the substrate is airy. Other regular jars (other than canning type) or small drinking glasses (with tin
foil covering) can be substituted for these canning jars. To insure similar results, make sure the jars or
glasses are tapered sided with no shoulder of any kind, and that they have a 1/2 pint (8 ounce - 250 ml)
capacity. It is important to note, that jars somewhat larger than 1/2 pint are unreliable for the PF TEK
and fail easily. The low form KERR 1/2 pint canning jar is the most versatile (fits into tight spaces et).

A 3 piece vegetable steamer (pot, basket insert & lid) is used for the steam sterilizing stage. Also, the
stainless steel vegetable steamers that fold out and stand on the bottom of the pot are good. Anything is
good as long as it keeps the jar bottoms off the pot bottom where the high temperature will crack the
glass.

Step 1. Place 1/2 cup of vermiculite into a mixing bowl. Place the brown rice powder on top of the
vermiculite. Slowly add the water directly onto the brown rice powder, wetting it first. Thoroughly mix
the ingredients. The mixture should feel damp and cohesive. More water (or less) can be used if
experimenting to improve the fruiting. Mix Each jars substrate individually for loading to insure accurate
formula rendering.

A note on water: A recent update is worth mentioning. Water quality is indeed important. I have found
out that "natural" water is the water to use. It makes for better cultivation of this mushroom on this
simple substrate. Distilled water is good for making spore solutions and syringes and storing spore
solution. But for growing, they seem to like the "natural" water such as: swamp, lake, stream,
pond,river, ground or any water that is rich in organics. I have heard that "mineral" type drinking water
is good and makes a difference. I suppose that water seeping from an organic compost pile would be
about the best.

Step 2. Fill the jar very loosely. Leave a 1/2 to 3/4 inch space at the top. Level the substrate. With a
tissue or a fingertip, wipe the insides of the jar down to the substrate. Fill the top of the jar with plain dry
vermiculite and level it off at the top. This upper layer will protect the wet substrate from air borne
contaminants. It acts as a contaminant barrier. This is a Psylocybe Fanaticus original discovery. What
this dry vermiculite layer does is protect the wet substrate from airborne contaminants and also absorbs
and regulates moisture transpiration and condensation.

In the photo, the black tape is the depth for the dry
vermiculite. The masking tape shows where the pf
substrate goes. The top layer of dry vermiculite must
be between 1/2" to 2/3" deep to provide protection
from contaminants entering from above.

Tamping down tek

Getting the substrate level correct is very important. A slight tamping down is required. To get an
accurate leveling of the substrate, loosely load the 1/2 pint jar and level the top of the mixture with the
top of the jar. Screw a cap on the top to hold the mixture in. With one hand, hold the jar and lightly slam
the bottom of the jar on the other palm a couple of times to lower the mixture level to around 1/2"-2/3"
from the top rim. Further level and adjust the substrate with a fork down to the proper height. Clean the
inside of the jar down to the substrate level with your fiinger tip or a paper towel and fill the jar back to
the top with dry vermiculite.

Step 3. Place the lid on the jar with the rubberized edge up (jagged edges of the needle holes down).
Screw the lid band on. Place pieces of "professional" grade masking tape (holds on during steaming)
over the needle holes. This is to protect the needle holes from contaminant entry.

Step 4. Heat the pot of water to a boil. Put the jars into the pot with the lid bands loose so that the steam
can penetrate the jars quickly. The jars can sit in water but make sure boiling water can't slosh into the
jars. Turn the heat down and GENTLY steam the jars at the lowest possible boil for an hour in a
TIGHTLY covered pot (gas stoves are the easiest to control). A good tight fitting pot lid is essential for
successful steaming.

When steaming or pressure canning is performed, the jars must be protected from water dripping down
from the underside of the pot lid caused by heavy condensation and drip off during boiling. This water
can get into the jars by entering under the jar lids that aren’t tight and soaking the substrate - throwing
off the formula and setting up failure. To prevent this, wrap some tin foil around the cap to ward off the
water. The tin foil can be removed after steaming (with the tape guarding the needle holes - or the tin foil
can be left on until it is inoculation time.)

Be careful to not overheat the jars, this dries the substrate. Drying is evidenced by o.k. spore germination
and halted growth. The fungus will spread but stop at a certain point depending on how dry the substrate
has become. Generally, any halted growth (with no contamination) is a sign of dried substrate. This is an
important concept that will enable diagnosis and correction of problems experienced with drying. The
remedy is to increase the water content of the substrate formula in use. After the jars have cooled, tighten
the lids and store them in a cool draft free place until ready to inoculate them.

PRESSURE CANNER USE

PF jars and water bottles can be quickly sterilized with a pressure canner. For proper and safe use of the
pressure canner, always refer to the manual that comes with it. If the canner is used and has no manual ,
try to get one from the manufacturer before using it. Pressure canners can be dangerous if used
incorrectly.

Sterilization times

1. 1/2 pint PF substrate jars - 12 p.s.i. for 20 minutes

2. Water bottles - 12 p.s.i. for 55 minutes
3. Syringes and needles - 12 p.s.i. for 10 minutes

INOCULATION OF THE PF SUBSTRATE JARS

Any jar to be inoculated must be cool to the touch before
proceeding. Make sure the lid is tight. Shake the syringe well and
remove the tape from the syringe needle guard. This shaking of
the syringe is important as to redistribute the spores in the water.
Take off the tape covering the needle holes. Remove the needle
guard and insert the needle through the lid hole. Tilt the syringe
body back towards the center of the lid with the needle tip
touching the glass. This distributes the spore water down the side
of the jar, giving a good inoculation down the side of the
substrate cake. Inoculate a few drops down each needle hole. As
the syringe plunger is pressed, observe the needle tip against the
inside of the glass. As soon as water appears around the needle
tip, release the syringe plunger pressure. In between each hole
inoculation, shake the syringe a little to keep the spores
distributed. Use 1 cc per jar. This will allow the syringe to
 inoculate 10 jars. More spore solution per jar can be used (speeds
colonization), but fewer jars can be inoculated . If the syringe
needle plugs up as it is inserted into the substrate, draw the needle
back a little and it will unplug.

In this photo, the needle tip can be seen resting

against the inside surface of the jar. Then, when the
solution is injected, it will run down the side of glass,
giving an even inoculation. It is also important to
add, that the vermiculite in this jar photo is very
course. This makes the needle more visible for the
demo. This type of vermiculite is best avoided.

ALCOHOL FLAMING TECHNIQUE

If the syringe needle is touched, flame the needle to sterilize it. An alcohol flame is a clean flame
whereas a butain cigarette lighter leaves behind an undesirable soot residue. To produce a short burning
alcohol flame, place a tequila shotglass upside down. Using an eyedropper, put a few drops of denatured
alcohol fuel (hardware store) on the hollow bottom of the glass and touch it with a match or lighter. The
blue flame will cleanly and safely sterilize small stainless steel tools. Heat the needle in the flame for a
few seconds to resterilize it. There might be a few "pops" of boiling water spurt out of the needle, but
the spores within the syringe are safe. If there is some left over spore solution, replace the needle guard
and store the syringe for later use. Resterilize the needle immediately before re-use. Store the syringe in a
dark, cool place.

INOCULATION OF PF JARS WITHOUT THE LIDS

This technique can also be used if canning jars are not available (1/2 pint wide mouth canning jars are
perfect and should be used at all cost). If regular drinking glasses are to be used - use regular tapered
sided drinking glasses (8 ounce - 250ml)

Jars can be inoculated without using a lid with holes punched. Before trying this technique, inoculate
with the punched lid first. That will show how it works without any problems (almost fail proof).

The only precaution to observe is to disturb the dry top vermiculite layer as little as possible, especially
when removing the needle after the inoculation. The underlying substrate must not be exposed to the air.
Carefully move any disturbed vermiculite back into place. If using a drinking glass or alternate
container, cover the mouth with tin foil. Replace the tin foil cover after inoculation.

INCUBATION OF INOCULATED JARS

After inoculation of the jars, tighten the lid bands and
retape the needle holes. Place the jars in a safe place
out of direct sunlight. Indirect light is all that is
required. If the temperature is kept around 70
degrees, germination will begin within 3 to 5 days.
Germinating spores appear as small white fuzzy
 spots, quickly growing and spreading with cottony
white growth and strandy "rhizomorphs". Any room
temperature is O.K. If it gets cold indoors, over head
light shinning down on the tops of the jars is a
perfect heating technique for this culturing stage. A
clamping type light with a reflector works well for
this. If this is done, keep the temperature around 70
degrees (don't overheat the jars - monitor the
temperature with a thermometer). A warm overall house temperature is fine. But in the overall view,
cool temperatures are never a problem. The rule is to not overheat.

THE CANNING JAR LID (loose or tight)

There are two choices with the lids during incubation - tight or loose. With a very high moisture content
(good for fruiting), a tight lid can cause water to collect in the bottom of the jar. This is to be avoided. If
it happens, the lid should be kept on loose during incubation. Tape the canning jar lid to the band to
make the lid act as a one piece lid for raising and lowering. If the substrate is on the dry side, a tight lid
will preserve the moisture content. It is all a matter of the balance between the water needs of the
mycelium, the size of the jar, the available air space in the jar and the type of vermiculite used. Only by
simple experimenting and comparison can the right balance be found for a given set of conditions. Take
notes and go with what fruits the best.

After the substrate turns white with the mycelium (2 or 3 weeks after inoculation), the jars are left to sit
in indirect light. The mycelium will continue to infiltrate the substrate until it gets enough food to trigger
the fruiting cycle. In less than a week to a few weeks after surface colonization of the cake, tiny white
"pin" like structures begin to appear. This is called pinning. This is the beginning of the fruiting cycle.
Soon after that, within the week, small round fungus growths appear that soon begin to turn yellow.

Lastly, "primordia" start to grow. These are tiny worm like structures with tiny reddish heads. These are
the first mushrooms.

THE BIRTHDAY CAKE

This photo is of a 1/2 pint PF substrate jar about 23
days after inoculation. The primordia have appeared
and it is now time to birth the cake. Wait until you
see this, and the fruiting will be maximized. The
fruiting is fairly relative to the primordia that appear.

The best time to remove the fungus cake from the jar
is when the primordia (tiny worm like structures with
reddish heads) appear on the cake while still in the
jar. Be careful not to damage them in handling. The
rule is to handle with care.

Remove the lid. With a clean fork, scrape away the

majority of the dry top vermiculite layer. There will
probably be seen some wispy mycelium here and there in the top layer. Place an old jar lid over the jar
mouth and turn the jar upside down. Lightly slam the jar down on a table cushioned with a magazine.
The fungus cake will slide out onto the old jar cap (BIRTHDAY). The jar cap functions as a base for
the cake. When handling the fungus cake, be careful as not to squeeze and bruise it. Bruising results in a
bluish mark. This fungus is resilient and can tolerate a certain amount of handling, but handle it as least
as possible. The aroma is distinctly mushroomy, very pleasant.

As soon as the fungus cake comes out of the jar, daub the cake with a piece of loose tissue paper to soak
up any water droplets that may have deposited on the cake as it comes out of the jar. Immediately after
the birthday, place the cakes into the dual chambered terrarium for the fruiting cycle.

This is the cake a few days after the birthday. This is a healthy
fruiting start. Some of these primordia will abhort, but most will
go on to full developement.

Some of the first mushrooms to form are "abhorts" (convoluted

caps, gnarly stems and stunted growth), and ironically they are
primo in magic alkaloids. They are even more powerful in magic
than the stately beauties that will soon dominate the cake. The
tiny "baby mushroom" abhorts are likewise good. After
witnessing the growth of the fungus, recognition of these abhorts
is easy. As long as the abhorts are healthy and pure, they are
primo. Also, another form of mutants will manifest, blobs of
fungus with little or no cap, also good for harvesting. And along
with these mutants, appear the perfect specimens, the sporocarps.

It has been reported that Psilocybe Cubensis is a "weak"

mushroom. PF and others have seen this to be not necessarily so.
It all depends on how it is grown, on what medium and how it is
harvested and preserved.

The secret to potent mushrooms is in their age when picked. It has been scientifically proven that the
small immature specimens are significantly more potent than the larger mature specimens. Over half of
the small primordia that first form will abhort (cease growing, convolute and deform). Pick these before
their heads turn black. A pointed knife blade works well for removing these high potency primodia.
These are among the most potent. The abortive mushrooms are also high potency. Harvest them when
they are young and before their heads turn black. When the fruitbodies are normal, harvest them before
the veil under the cap breaks. The mushrooms will be smaller and their heads will be roundish. It is
important to note that the mushroom cakes pictured in this book are all mostly well matured. While these
mature specimens are beautiful and perfect, they are not as potent as the diminutive specimens. The
mature specimens are good for spore collecting and showcasing but are weak in psychedelic potency.

Grow them on brown rice, harvest them when they are young and cool dry them with desiccant.
When this is done, they are an entheogen of the highest order.

TIME SCALE OF THE MUSHROOMS

1. Spore inoculation to spore germination - within a week, at 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Spore germination to complete colonization of the cake - about 2 to 3 weeks.
3. Colonization to fruiting cycle start - within 2 weeks.
4. The fruiting cycle lasts about 2 weeks. After the initial flush, the mycelium cake begins to turn blue
and no more mushrooms form. If the cake is thoroughly cleaned of abhorts and stray fungus blobs after
the initial fruiting and given the PF double ended cake casing tek, fruiting can be doubled or even
tripled.

All in all, the process takes from 4 - 6 weeks from spore inoculation to fruiting.

CONTAMINANT SOURCE IDENTIFICATION

Contaminant invaders appear in various colors from pastels to black. If they appear, the culture is
doomed. Bacteria contamination is detectable through the top dry vermiculite layer as a sour foul odor
within two days after inoculation (and no spore germination). If the jar is bacteria contaminated, be
careful in cleaning it. Keep a safe distance from the contaminated substrate. Don't inhale the bacteria and
wash after touching it. Bacteria can be dangerous.
 Control jar technique
After the jars are steam sterilized, let them cool, tighten the lids and let them sit uninoculated for several
days. Watch for any colored growths or changes in the appearance of the substrate. The tell tale rancid
odor of bacteria can be easily detected by loosening the jar lid and checking for the odor. If there is
contamination at this stage, the sterilization technique needs to be checked. Most likely it will be a to
short sterilization time. If there is a problem at this stage, lengthen the sterilization time. If the jars remain
clean and unchanged, they are ready for spore syringe inoculation. If contamination occurs after
inoculation, the syringe was contaminated or the dry vermiculite layer was breached during inoculation.

NON-GERMINATION OF SPORES
1. The spore solution was not inoculated deep enough down into the jar. Instead of running down the
side of the jar and inoculating the substrate cake, the solution was absorbed by the non-nutritive top
vermiculite layer. To avoid this from happening, make sure that the spore solution flows down along the
sides of the substrate cake by inserting the syringe needle so that the tip is below the non-nutritive upper
vermiculite layer.

2. The substrate jars were not allowed to cool down after sterilization, killing the spores. Inoculate only
when the jar feels cool to the touch.

3. There is evidence now that syringe boxes can be exposed to killing heat during transit (a very rare
occurrence). The possibilities are such as over heated airplane cargo holds during intense heat waves or
a superheated mail truck parked all day in the sun. Another possibility is that on arriving at the mail box,
the syringe package was allowed to sit inside a broiling sun heated mail box, killing the spores.

4. Spore syringes can survive freezing, but extreme low temperatures are probably destructive to the
spores.

THE DUAL CHAMBERED TERRARIUM

 THE AIRTIGHT AQUARIUM LID (TOP)

(For a standard 10 gallon aquarium)

24" X 14 1/2" outside dimensions

21 1/4" x 12" inside dimensions (dimensions variable).
The frame can be made of flat (unwarped) 1/4" thick board or 4 wood strips connected by screws.

The wooden lid frames' inner rectangular cutout must be LARGER than the top of the aquarium. Clear
polyethylene plastic film is tacked to the underside (or upper side) of the frame so that the frame holds it
tightly onto the aquarium top. The frame essentially hangs by the plastic film. A simpler alternative is to
cover the aquarium top with saran wrap or something similar. The most important point to be stressed is
that the aquarium must be sealable with no air leaks, for humidity retention.

THE SPRAY SHIELD/CHAMBER PARTITION

(for a standard 10 gallon aquarium)

Use 1/8" thick clear acrylic (Plexiglas) window insulation available at most hardware stores. Have it cut
around 15" x 18" (dimensions may vary - check the aquarium first). A loose fit is good as long as the
cakes are protected from the direct spray.

DUAL CHAMBERED TERRARIUM TECHNIQUES

The mushrooms get water from 2 sources; the substrate they grow on and the air that surrounds them.
The surrounding air must be highly humidified. The fungus needs to bathe in a shroud of floating water
molecules. 100% humidity is where there is the maximum number of water molecules floating amongst
the air atoms. The dual chambered terrarium easily achieves these conditions.

It all starts with the spray from the hand sprayer. The first rule is to never directly spray the fungus. This
initial spray is comprised of water droplets that are giant ponds of water in relation to the fine mycelial
networks of the fungal threads. In culture, the droplet of water will drown the micro world of the fungal
structures and thereby inhibit or contaminate growth. But the airborne molecularized water floats into the
fine structures and gives the fungus humidity as needed. Molecularized water is another way of
describing water that has evaporated into the air.

The spray that comes out of the spray bottle must be molecularized for the fungus. The spray shield and
the primary chamber accomplish this. The primary chamber receives the initial spraying. As the spray
strikes the shield, it is broken down into a finer mist which flows around the sides of the spray shield
into the secondary chamber where the fungus is bathed in the fine humidity safely away from water
droplets. In a matter of time, this humidity will condense out onto surfaces inside the terrarium and drip
down. The spray shield is slanted and therefore acts as a drip shield and roof, so the more condensation
the better.

SPRAYING PROCEDURE
First, before placing the cakes into the terrarium, spray all the inside surfaces of the terrarium, including
the spray shield and lid. Insert the fungus cakes and put the spray shield and lid in place. Then, slightly
lift up the lid and insert the nozzle of the water spray bottle in between the lid and the top of the
aquarium and vigorously spray downwards into the middle of the shield. After about 5 seconds of
spraying, immediately withdraw the sprayer nozzle and let down the lid to seal the swirling mist inside
the terrarium. Come back after a few minutes and give it another spraying if desired and a third if the
terrarium is to be left untended until the evening. To maintain a high humidity try to spray 2 times a day,
and the more the better. Compensate for a lack of spraying during the day by spraying several times in
the evening. Make sure that all the inside surfaces of the terrarium are foggy or dripping with water. This
in itself helps generate humidity.

It has been seen that mushrooms will grow in a properly set up dual chambered terrarium, with
only one good spraying a day - and even less than that!

Each time the terrarium is sprayed, the fungus should be ventilated. To ventilate, take off the lid, and
while holding the spray shield vertically, fan the chamber with a piece of cardboard, and then spray as
above. Also, the water that collects in the bottom of the terrarium must be siphoned out (prevents
bacteria buildup). This can be easily done using a rubber bulb battery filler (auto parts store) or a rubber
bulb type enema bottle.

Expose the terrarium to normal room light (indirect sunlight). A small low wattage fluorescent plant light
will make the phototropic mushrooms grow upwards. Leave it on all the time if desired.

HEATING
The main rule is to not heat the dual chambered terrarium. Any direct heating works against the
humidification and adds a drying influence. Do not use heating cables, heat pads or blankets. Don't
shine light directly down into the terrarium. Keep any plant grow light (low wattage only) a safe
distance from the terrarium. These fungi grow well at 60 degrees Fahrenheit. PF has even seen them
growing perfectly at temperatures cooler than 60 degrees. They grow slowly when they are cool. When
warm or at heated room temperature, they grow very fast. Strive for a growing temperature between 65
and the upper 80's. A too hot terrarium will result in lots of spreading mycelium, but no fruiting.

SYMPTOMS OF LOW HUMIDITY

When the humidity is a bit low, but not low enough to stop fruiting, the mushrooms can have fuzzy
white mycelium growing on the tops of the caps. When this occurs, the cap looks like it has a crown of
white hair. This is not contamination. This white fuzzy mycelium is perfectly good and does not detract
from the mushrooms quality.

Deformed, convoluted, and withering mushrooms and primordia are signs of low humidity. For the best
growth, the humidity has to be very high.

The Rich Mans' Terrarium

This is the terrarium that was used in the perlite and terrarium tests. I
found it at a new and used resteraunt supply store in Seattle for $25.
This is a covered food display tray.

It works great with perlite (and without) and holds 9 half pint cakes.
The one above has 7 cakes. The cakes are post initial flush and the
fruitings are secondary fruitings. The fruitbodies that appear late are
always superb in form.

If you can't find one of these in your local town, you can order one for
around $75 (hence - the "richmans'"). Call the manufacturer (Cal-Mil)
in California at 1 800 321 9069. They will tell you where you can
order it (from one of their distributers near your town).

Unfortunately, sometimes a distributer will require a minimum of an order for two. But fortunately, the
terrarium they will send you for the above price is bigger than the one pictured. It has room for several
more cakes, making for a goodly capacity. All the shrooms pictured at this site were grown in one of
these.

The catalog numbers are:

314-15 -- the "connoisseur cover"
316-15 -- "Deep Tray" bottom half
The unit is 15 inches in diameter and about that tall.

To use this terrarium, first spray the insides. Place the cakes in. Hold the cover above the tray and spray
a fine mist into the air about 2 feet above the cakes in the tray and immediately lower the cover down
onto the tray - trapping mist. Air and mist once a day. But what is so cool about this, is that neglect goes
a long way! (set it up and leave it).

Yeah, I know it costs, but it works so nicely, and it makes a nice coffee table display. If your landlord
comes by to inspect, he will see it, look down and say, "hey, nice shrooms, what kind are they"? Then
you say, "I got it from a science catalog company and it is a new miniature fungi growing kit and the
shrooms are not edible - just wild". (or something absurd like that). Then your landlord will look
approvingly around, notice the neatness and tiddyness of your domecile, and leave, little knowing that
he just observed the food of the gods.

The Ultra Richmans Terrarium

This terrarium was made by a plastics fabrication expert. It
isn't cheap (like a poor mans Whalmart plastic storage box)
but if you can find the right person - the cost is a bit more
than the richmans dome above. It is made out of acrylic clear
plastic. It is one piece, with a removable spray shield. At the
top, is a spray hole with a rubber stopper. It is designed to
hold one fruiting cake to maturity, but it can hold 4 cakes
tightly. The cake inside is a first flush PF spore race cake -
typical of a first flush obtained with the pf tek.

The terrarium is open bottomed so it fits over the cakes that

sit on a tray. This is the most fool proof terrarium one can
have. And it can be made bigger - as big as a ten gallon
aquarium or larger. The plastics expert can make one just by
looking at the photo and you giving him the dimensions that
you want or by giving him the tray that you have to fit the
terrarium to it. Very tricky - but it isn't hard to find someone
(a professional) who can do it if you live in any kind of large
town.

COOL DESICCATION (drying) OF MUSHROOMS

The immature specimens are the best in quality, digestibility and potency. They are characterized as
being very light in color with white stems and light colored caps. The cap will spread out after the veil
breaks. Just before or right after the veil breaks is a good time to harvest. The gills on the underside of
the cap will be light in color. The mushrooms will be conical shaped and sporulation hasn't really begun
yet. These are the mushrooms that are the best for harvesting.

1. The easiest way to dry the fungi is to place them

on a wire screen with air available to all sides. Never
dry them in an oven or use hot air dryers. The heat
leaches the chemical constituents and reduces their
quality.
 2. Using a frost free (dehumidifying) refrigerator
works but it is time consuming and then everyone
doesn't have a frost free fridge.

3. Using desiccant to cool dry mushrooms is overall,

the best drying technique.

MATERIALS NEEDED - Desiccant - Wire screen - Plastic tub or container - Plastic bag with tie off.

DESICCANT SOURCES

1. "DRIERITE" desiccant. (chemical and science supply retailers). It is the universal lab desiccant.
2. Silica Gel granules - desiccant. (Chemical and science supply)
3. "DAMP GONE" - (looks like kitty litter - for drying closets and damp places in the home) - available
at well stocked hardware stores. This is inexpensive desiccant but works as well as any.

Note: These products might have toxicity warnings - (don't breathe the dust and try not to touch it
directly - it dries skin.). Follow those rules, but know that desiccant in an airtight box and under a screen
will do nothing to the fungi except dry them. It is completely safe for this use.

What desiccant does, is absorb moisture out of the air. As the fungus transpires moisture, the moisture is
immediately absorbed back into the desiccant, drying the fungi. Desiccant can be reused and lasts
indefinitely. After use, the desiccant is heated, dried and stored for future use. Store it in an air tight
container so that it stays dry and ready for use. Heat the desiccant in an oven as instructed by the
manufacturer. This preheating should be done before the desiccant is used because when it is purchased
- it is usually somewhat damp which will thwart its function for drying air.

In drying a medium sized mushroom such as

Psilocybe Cubensis, use a 1 inch layer of desiccant
on the bottom of the container, under the
mushrooms. Place the mushrooms on a wire screen
and lay them on the desiccant that is in the container.
Put the container with the shrooms and desiccant into
a plastic bag. A garbage bag type wire tie is
sufficient to close the bag. If a clear plastic bag can
be found, use that to observe the drying process.
After 24 hours, a little shriveling of the shrooms can
be seen. About 4 or 5 days later, the shrooms will be
dried rock hard. To check the drying - the stem
should snap cleanly when bent.

For the best alkaloid preservation technique, the desiccant box can be put into the refrigerator and the
mushrooms dried at near freezing temperatures.

Pre drying the mushrooms in the air on a wire screen works very well if the the room humidity is not
high. After a couple of days, the shriveling fungus can be quickly and completely dried in the desiccant
box.

Mushrooms dried in this way lose hardly any chemical constituents and their truly desiccated state
preserves them in their prime for months.

Store them by sealing them in plastic bags or keep

them in canning jars with the rubber edged canning
lid on tight (as in the photo - dried shrooms in little
bags stored on top of desiccant). The freezer is a
good place for preservation, but make sure the fungi
are tightly sealed in their containers to protect them
 against the moisture in the freezer.

SPORE PRINTING AND SPORE SYRINGE PREPARATION

The mature specimens are good for spore production, but are not as good for
consumption (weaker potency). They are characterized as becoming darker,
with dark bluish colors appearing on the caps and stems. The cap upturns and
reveals gills darkening a deep brown color. The mushroom will look like an
umbrella that has turned up edges. On the stem can be seen the purple deposits
of the dropping spores. Mature adult mushrooms release spores by the
millions. In the area around the mushrooms can be seen a deepening color of
purple. As the spores fall and collect they will color deep purple. This is the signal that the mushroom
has matured and is now in its sporulation cycle. This is the time to take their spores.

SPORE PRINTING EQUIPMENT

KERR 1/2 PINT WIDE MOUTH (LOW FORM) CANNING JAR. (ANY SUITABLE JAR IS OK)
FINGER NAIL CUTICLE SCISSORS - (cosmetics - drug stores)
ALCOHOL, TEQUILA SHOT GLASS AND EYE DROPPER.

1. Presterilize the jar and regular metal lid (rubber edge up) in a small toaster oven at around 300 degrees
Fahrenheit for around a half hour. Keep the lid loose during the sterilization cycle. When the jar has
cooled down, tighten the lid until it is time to use the jar for a spore print. The rubberized edge will be a
bit melted, but that won't be any problem in this technique.

Note: What follows is a sterile technique. The first rule that must be always followed is to wash hands
prior to sterile work. Hands are a prime source for bacteria and microspore contaminants. Sterilize all the
work surfaces with rubbing alcohol. Minimize drafts. Try for a still air environment. Don't breathe on
the work. Run a small home appliance style HEPA air cleaner (99.97% rated efficiency - available at
drug and department stores) for a few hours in a closed room to clean the air before doing sterile work.

2. Flame sterilize the scissors with an alcohol flame and snip off the mushroom cap. Cut the top of the
stem as far up into the cap as possible so that the gills of the mushroom will sit flat on the surface of the
jar bottom. With quick and sure movements, place the cap into the jar and place the lid on loosely.
Pierce the top of the cap with a straight pin to pick it up and handle it.

3. Leave the jar with a loose cap for a couple of days in a draft free area away from direct sunlight. After
the print is taken, quickly and with as little air disturbance as possible, remove the jar cap and extract the
mushroom cap from the jar. With a loose jar cap, let the jar sit in a draft free place to dehumidify for a
few days before sealing it up (with tape) because there will be some residual moisture left behind on the
spores and glass. Store the spore print jar at room temperatures in a dark place away from sunlight. Don't
store it in a refrigerator.

Psilocybe Cubensis spores begin to degrade a few months after they are taken. After approximately 1
1/2 years, spore germination will be greatly reduced or won't occur at all. Germination is massive and
quick when the spores are fresh.

MAKING A SPORE SYRINGE

Materials list:

1. Spore print in jar.

2. Sterile syringe with water for injecting water into the spore print jar.
3. Sterile syringe for loading spore solution out of the jar.
4. A small Pyrex glass stirring rod (science - lab supply).
5. Alcohol, tequila shot glass and eye dropper.
6. Lid with two holes. Prepare this lid by drilling a hole in the center of the lid to fit the Pyrex glass
stirring rod. Punch the second hole near the edge of the lid (rubberized edge up) to fit a syringe needle.

Syringe preparation
Boil a pot of water. Draw boiling water into a syringe and squirt it out several times. Refill the syringe
with boiling water, replace the needle quard and wrap the syringe in tin foil. Prepare several syringes
like this. Drop the syringes into the boiling water and boil them for one hour. Let them cool before
using.

The main point of this technique would be to expose the interior of the jar to as little room air as
possible. Always protect the holes in the lid by placing tin foil or sterile surgical tape over the holes
before and after this procedure.

1. Inject sterile water

into the spore print jar
through the needle
hole.
2. Flame sterilize the
glass stirring rod and
let it cool a minute.
Insert it through the
center lid hole and
with the rod end,
scrape spores into the
water.
3. Insert the sterile
syringe needle through
the small hole at the edge of the lid. Tilt the jar until the water comes up to
the needle tip and draw the spore water into the sterile syringe.

Store the syringe at cool temperatures in the dark. A properly prepared

spore syringe will be good for several months and even up to a year or
more.

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