2A•1

Chapter 2 Part A:
TU series engine in-car repair procedures
Contents
Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection and refitting 9 Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting 14
Camshaft oil seal - renewal 8 General engine checks See Chapter 1
Compression test - description and interpretation 2 General information 1
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal 13 Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting 12
Cylinder head - removal and refitting 10 Sump - removal and refitting 11
Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting 4 Timing belt - general information, removal and refitting 6
Engine assembly/valve timing holes - general information and usage 3 Timing belt covers - removal and refitting 5
Engine oil and filter renewal See Chapter 1 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and
Engine oil level check See Chapter 1 refitting 7
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal 15 Valve clearances - checking and adjustment See Chapter 1

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, suitable Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little for beginner with for competent DIY experienced DIY suitable for expert DIY
experience some experience mechanic mechanic or professional

Specifications
Engine (general)
Designation:
1124 cc engine TU1
1360 cc engine TU3
Engine codes:*
1124 cc carburettor engine H1A (RJ1 K)
1124 cc fuel injection engine HDZ (TU1M L/Z)
1360 cc carburettor engine K2D (TU3 2K)
1360 cc fuel injection engine with a distributor KDY (TU3M Z)
1360 cc fuel-injected engine with a static ignition system KDX (TU3MC L/Z)
Bore:
1124 cc engine 72.00 mm
1360 cc engine 75.00 mm
Stroke:
1124 cc engine 69.00 mm
1360 cc engine 77.00 mm
Direction of crankshaft rotation Clockwise (viewed from right-hand side of vehicle)
No 1 cylinder location At transmission end of block
Compression ratio:
1124 cc engine 9.4 :1
1360 cc engine 9.3 :1
Maximum power:
1124 cc engine . 60 bhp (44.1 kW) @ 5800 rpm
1360 cc engine 75 bhp (55 kW) @ 5800 rpm
Maximum torque:
1124 cc engine 89.7 Nm (66.2 Ibf ft) @ 3200 rpm
1360 cc engine 116.9 Nm (86.3 Ibf ft) @ 3800 rpm
*Thee engine code is stamped on a plate attached to the front left-hand end of the cylinder block; this is the code most often used by Citroen. The
full code given in brackets is the factory identification number, and is not often referred to by Citroen or this manual.

Lubrication system
Oil pump type Gear-type, chain-driven off the crankshaft
Minimum oil pressure at 90°C 4 bars at 4000 rpm
Oil pressure warning switch operating pressure 0.5 bars
2A•2 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

Camshaft
Drive Toothed belt
Number of bearings 5
Cam lift:
1124 cc engine 8.2 mm
1360 cc engine 9.4 mm
Camshaft bearing journal diameter (outside diameter):
No 1 36.950 to 36.925 mm
No 2 40.650 to 40.625 mm
No 3 41.250 to 41.225 mm
No 4 41.850 to 41.825 mm
No 5 42.450 to 42.425 mm
Cylinder head bearing journal diameter (inside diameter):
No 1 37.000 to 37.039 mm
No 2 40.700 to 47.739 mm
No 3 41.300 to 41.339 mm
No 4 41.900 to 41.939 mm
No 5 42.500 to 42.539 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm ibf ft

Cylinder head cover nuts 16 12
Timing belt cover bolts 8 6
Crankshaft pulley retaining bolts 8 6
Timing belt tensioner pulley nut 23 17
Camshaft sprocket retaining bolt 80 59
Crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt 110 81
Camshaft thrust fork retaining bolt 16 12
Cylinder head bolts:
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten through 240° Angle-tighten through 240°
Sump drain plug 30 22
Sump retaining nuts and bolts 8 6
Oil pump retaining bolts 8 6
Flywheel retaining bolts 65 48
Big-end bearing cap nuts 40 30
Main bearing ladder casting:
11 mm bolts:
Stage 1 20 15
Stage 2 Angle-tighten through 45° Angle-tighten through 45°
6 mm bolts 8 6
Engine/transmission right-hand mounting:
Mounting bracket retaining nuts 45 33
Engine/transmission left-hand mounting:
Mounting bracket-to-
transmission nuts 18 13
Mounting bracket-to-body bolts 25 18
Centre nut 38 28
Engine/transmission rear mounting:
Mounting assembly-to-block bolts 40 30
Mounting bracket-to-mounting bolt 70 52
Mounting bracket-to-subframe bolt 95 70
Note that, while it may be possible TU series engine description
physically to overhaul items such as the
1 General information The TU series engine is a well-proven
piston/connecting rod assemblies while the
engine which has been fitted to many
engine is in the car, such tasks are not previous Citroen and Peugeot vehicles. The
How to use this Chapter normally carried out as separate operations. engine is of the in-line four-cylinder, overhead
This Part of Chapter 2 describes those Usually, several additional procedures (not to camshaft (OHC) type, mounted transversely at
repair procedures that can reasonably be mention the cleaning of components and of the front of the car (see illustration). The
carried out on the TU series engine (1124 cc oilways) have to be carried out. For this clutch and transmission are attached to its
and 1360 cc models) while it remains in the reason, all such tasks are classed as major left-hand end. The ZX range is fitted with both
car. If the engine has been removed from the overhaul procedures, and are described in 1124 cc (not available in the UK) and 1360 cc
car and is being dismantled as described in Part C of this Chapter. versions of the engine; carburettor and fuel-
Part C, any preliminary dismantling pro- Part C describes the removal of the injected versions are available.
cedures can be ignored. Refer to Part B for engine/transmission unit from the vehicle, and The crankshaft runs in five main bearings.
information on the XU series engine (1580 cc the full overhaul procedures that can then be Thrustwashers are fitted to No 2 main bearing
and larger-engined models). carried out. (upper half) to control crankshaft endfloat.
 TU series engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

1.4 Cutaway view of the TU series engine 1.11 Lubrication system of the TU series engine

The connecting rods rotate on horizontally- supply. The camshaft lobes and valves are
split bearing shells at their big-ends. The lubricated by splash, as are all other engine
pistons are attached to the connecting rods components (see illustration).
by gudgeon pins, which are an interference fit Throughout this manual, it is often
in the connecting rod small-end eyes. The necessary to identify the engines not only by
aluminium-alloy pistons are fitted with three their capacity, but also by their engine code.
piston rings - two compression rings and an The engine code, which consists of three
oil control ring. letters (eg. KDY), is stamped on a plate
The cylinder bores have replaceable wet attached to the front left-hand end of the
liners. Sealing O-rings are fitted at the base of cylinder block (see illustration).
each liner, to prevent the escape of coolant
into the sump. Repair operations possible with
The inlet and exhaust valves are each the engine in the car
closed by coil springs, and operate in guides The following work can be carried out with
1.12 Engine code is stamped on a plate
pressed into the cylinder head; the valve seat the engine in the car:
(arrowed) attached to the front of the
inserts are also pressed into the cylinder (a) Compression pressure - testing.
cylinder block - viewed from above
head, and can be renewed separately if worn. (b) Cylinder head cover - removal and
The camshaft is driven by a toothed timing refitting.
belt, and operates the eight valves via rocker (c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting. *The cylinder head must be removed for the
arms. Valve clearances are adjusted by a (d) Timing belt - removal, refitting and successful completion of this work. Refer to
screw-and-locknut arrangement. The cam- adjustment. Section 9 for details.
shaft rotates in bearings that are line-bored (e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -
through the cylinder head. The timing belt also removal and refitting.
drives the coolant pump. (f)- Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal. 2 Compression test -
Lubrication is by means of an oil pump, (g) Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, description and interpretation
which is driven (via a chain and sprocket) off inspection and refitting. *
the right-hand end of the crankshaft. It draws (h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting. 1 When engine performance is down, or if
oil through a strainer located in the sump, and (i) Cylinder head and pistons - misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
then forces it through an externally-mounted decarbonising. the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
filter into galleries in the cylinder block/ (j) Sump - removal and refitting, test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
crankcase. From there, the oil is distributed to (k) Oil pump - removal, overhaul and refitting. engine's condition. If the test is performed
the crankshaft (main bearings) and camshaft. (I) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via (m) Engine/transmission mountings - any other symptoms become apparent.
internal drillings in the crankshaft, while the inspection and renewal. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
camshaft bearings also receive a pressurised (n) Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting. normal operating temperature, the battery
2A•4 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

3.4 Insert a 6 mm bolt (arrowed) through 3.5 . . . then insert a 10 mm bolt through 4.3 Disconnect the breather hose from the
hole in cylinder block flange and into the cam sprocket timing hole, and locate it cylinder head cover . . .
timing hole in the flywheel... in the cylinder head

must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs cylinder through its spark plug hole, and to lock both the camshaft and crankshaft in
must be removed (Chapter 1). The aid of an repeat the test. position, preventing them from rotating.
assistant will also be required. 11 If the addition of oil temporarily improves Proceed as follows.
3 On models with an ignition system the compression pressure, this indicates that 2 Remove the timing belt upper cover as
incorporating a distributor, disable the ignition bore or piston wear is responsible for the described in Section 5.
system by disconnecting the ignition HT coil pressure loss. No improvement suggests that 3 The crankshaft must now be turned until
lead from the distributor cap and earthing it leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head the timing hole in the camshaft sprocket is
on the cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or gasket, may be to blame. aligned with the corresponding hole in the
similar wire to make a good connection. 12 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders cylinder head. The holes are aligned when the
4 On models with a static (distributorless) is almost certainly due to the head gasket camshaft sprocket hole is in the 2 o'clock
ignition system, disable the ignition system by having blown between them; the presence of position, when viewed from the right-hand
disconnecting the LT wiring connector from coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. end of the engine. The crankshaft can be
the ignition HT coil(s), referring to Chapter 5 13 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower turned by using a spanner on the crankshaft
for further information. than the others and the engine has a slightly sprocket bolt, noting that it should always be
5 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 rotated in a clockwise direction (viewed from
rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester the right-hand end of the engine).
cause.
which screws into the plug thread is to be 14 If the compression reading is unusually 4 With the camshaft sprocket hole correctly
preferred. high, the combustion chambers are probably positioned, insert a 6 mm diameter bolt or drill
6 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide coated with carbon deposits. If this is the through the hole in the front, left-hand flange
open, and crank the engine on the starter of the cylinder block, and locate it in the
case, the cylinder head should be removed
motor; after one or two revolutions, the timing hole in the rear of the flywheel (see
and decarbonised.
compression pressure should build up to a illustration). Note that it may be necessary to
15 On completion of the test, refit the spark
maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record rotate the crankshaft slightly, to get the holes
plugs and reconnect the ignition system.
the highest reading obtained. to align.
7 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, 5 With the flywheel correctly positioned,
recording the pressure in each. insert a 10 mm diameter bolt or a drill through
8 All cylinders should produce very similar
3 Engine assembly/valve timing the timing hole in the camshaft sprocket, and
pressures; a difference of more than 2 bars holes - locate it in the hole in the cylinder head (see,
general information and usage illustration).
between any two cylinders indicates a fault.
Note that the compression should build up 6 The crankshaft and camshaft are now
quickly in a healthy engine; low compression Note: Do not attempt to rotate the engine locked in position, preventing unnecessary
on the first stroke, followed by gradually- whilst the crankshaft/camshaft are locked in rotation.
increasing pressure on successive strokes, position. If the engine is to be left in this state
indicates worn piston rings. A low for a long period of time, it is a good idea to 4 Cylinder head cover -
compression reading on the first stroke, which place warning notices inside the vehicle, and removal and refitting
does not build up during successive strokes, in the engine compartment. This will reduce
indicates leaking valves or a blown head the possibility of the engine being accidentally
gasket (a cracked head could also be the cranked on the starter motor, which is likely to Removal
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the cause damage with the locking pins in place. 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
valve heads can also cause low compression. 1 On all models, timing holes are drilled in the 2 Where necessary, undo the bolts securing
9 Although Citroen do not specify exact camshaft sprocket and in the rear of the the HT lead retaining clips to the rear of the
compression pressures, as a guide, any flywheel. The holes are used to ensure that cylinder head cover, and position the clips
cylinder pressure of below 10 bars can be the crankshaft and camshaft are correctly clear of the cover.
considered as less than healthy. Refer to a positioned when assembling the engine (to 3 Slacken the retaining clip, and disconnect
Citroen dealer or other specialist if in doubt as prevent the possibility of the valves contacting the breather hose from the left-hand end of
to whether a particular pressure reading is the pistons when refitting the cylinder head), the cylinder head cover (see illustration).
acceptable. or refitting the timing belt. When the timing Where the original crimped-type Citroen hose
10 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carry holes are aligned with access holes in the clip is still fitted, cut it off and discard it. Use a
out the following test to isolate the cause. cylinder head and the front of the cylinder standard worm-drive clip on refitting.
Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that block, suitable diameter pins can be inserted 4 Undo the two retaining nuts, and remove
 TU series engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5

4.4 . . . then slacken and remove the cover 4.5 . . . and lift off the cylinder head cover 4.6a Lift off the spacers (second one
retaining nuts and washers (arrowed)...
arrowed)...
the washer from each of the cylinder head
cover studs (see illustration).
5 Lift off the cylinder head cover, and remove
it along with its rubber seal (see illustration).
Examine the seal for signs of damage and
deterioration, and if necessary, renew it.
6 Remove the spacer from each stud, and lift
off the oil baffle plate (see illustrations).
Refitting
7 Carefully clean the cylinder head and cover
mating surfaces, and remove all traces of oil.
8 Fit the rubber seal over the edge of the
cylinder head cover, ensuring that it is correctly
located along its entire length (see illustration). 4.8 On refitting, ensure the rubber seal is
4.6b . . . and remove the oil baffle plate correctly located on the cylinder head
9 Refit the oil baffle plate to the engine, and
locate the spacers in their recesses in the cover
baffle plate.
10 Carefully refit the cylinder head cover to
the engine, taking great care not to displace
the rubber seal.
11 Check that the seal is correctly located,
then refit the washers and cover retaining
nuts, and tighten them to the specified torque,
12 Where necessary, refit the HT lead clips to
the rear of the head cover, and securely
tighten their retaining bolts.
13 Reconnect the breather hose to the
cylinder head cover, securely tightening its
retaining clip, and reconnect the battery
negative lead.
5.1a Undo the two retaining bolts 5.1b . . . and remove the upper timing belt
5 Timing belt covers - (arrowed)...
cover
removal and refitting

Removal
Upper cover
1 Slacken and remove the two retaining bolts
(one at the front and one at the rear), and
remove the upper timing cover from the
cylinder head (see illustrations).
Centre cover
2 Remove the upper cover as described in
paragraph 1, then free the wiring from its
retaining clips on the centre cover (see
illustration).
3 Slacken and remove the three retaining
bolts (one at the rear of the cover, beneath the 5.2 Free the wiring loom from its retaining 5.3 . . . then undo the three retaining bolts
engine mounting plate, and two directly above clip... (locations arrowed) and remove the centre
the crankshaft pulley), and manoeuvre the
timing belt cover
 2A•6 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

5.6a Undo the three retaining bolts 5.6b . . . and remove the crankshaft pulley 5.7 Undo the retaining bolt and remove
(arrowed)... the lower timing belt cover

centre cover out from the engine 2 The timing belt should be renewed at the teeth. Renew the belt if there is the slightest
compartment (see illustration). specified intervals (see Chapter 1), or earlier if doubt about its condition. If the engine is
Lower cover it is contaminated with oil, or if it is at all noisy undergoing an overhaul, and has covered
in operation (a "scraping" noise due to uneven more than 24 000 miles (40 000 km) with the
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described wear). existing belt fitted, renew the belt as a matter
in Chapter 1. 3 If the timing belt is being removed, it is a of course, regardless of its apparent
5 Remove the upper and centre covers as wise precaution to check the condition of the condition. The cost of a new belt is nothing
described in paragraphs 1 to 3. coolant pump at the same time (check for when compared to the cost of repairs, should
6 Undo the three crankshaft pulley retaining signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the the belt break in service. If signs of oil
bolts and remove the pulley, noting which way need to remove the timing belt again at a later contamination are found, trace the source of
round it is fitted (see illustrations). stage, should the coolant pump fail. the oil leak, and rectify it. Wash down the
7 Slacken and remove the single retaining engine timing belt area and all related
bolt, and slide the lower cover off the end of Removal components, to remove all traces of oil.
the crankshaft (see illustration). 4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
Refitting 5 Align the engine assembly/valve timing Refitting
holes as described in Section 3, and lock both 10 Prior to refitting, thoroughly clean the
Upper cover the camshaft sprocket and the flywheel in timing belt sprockets. Check that the
8 Refit the cover, ensuring it is correctly position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any
located with the centre cover, and tighten its whilst the locking pins are in position. sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the
retaining bolts. 6 Remove the timing belt centre and lower tensioner pulley as described in Section 7.
Centre cover covers as described in Section 5. Make sure that the locking pins are still in
7 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley place, as described in Section 3.
9 Manoeuvre the centre cover back into retaining nut. Pivot the pulley in a clockwise
position, ensuring it is correctly located with 11 Manoeuvre the timing belt into position,
direction, using a square-section key fitted to ensuring that the arrows on the belt are
the lower cover, and tighten its retaining bolts. the hole in the pulley hub, then retighten the pointing in the direction of rotation (clockwise
10 Clip the wiring loom into its retaining clips retaining nut. when viewed from the right-hand end of the
on the front of the centre cover, then refit the 8 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white engine).
upper cover as described in paragraph 8. paint or similar to mark the direction of 12 Do not twist the timing belt sharply while
Lower cover rotation on the belt (if markings do not already refitting it. Fit the belt over the crankshaft and
exist) (see illustration). Slip the belt off the camshaft sprockets. Make sure that the "front
10 Locate the lower cover over the timing
sprockets. run" of the belt is taut - ie, ensure that any
belt sprocket, and tighten its retaining bolt.
9 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the
11 Fit the pulley to the end of the crankshaft,
of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination. belt. Fit the belt over the water pump sprocket
ensuring it is fitted the correct way round, and
Pay particular attention to the roots of the and tensioner pulley. Ensure that the belt
tighten its retaining bolts to the specified
torque. teeth are seated centrally in the sprockets.
12 Refit the centre and upper covers as 13 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
described above, then refit and tension the Pivot the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut.
14 Citroen dealers use a special tool to
6 Timing belt - general
tension the timing belt (see illustration). A
information, removal and refitting similar tool may be fabricated using a suitable
square-section bar attached to an arm; a hole
General information should be drilled in the arm at a distance of 80
mm from the centre of the square-section bar.
1 The timing belt drives the camshaft and Fit the tool to the hole in the tensioner pulley,
coolant pump from a toothed sprocket on the keeping the tool arm as close to the horizontal
front of the crankshaft. If the belt breaks or as possible, and hang a 1.5 kg (3.3 Ib) weight
slips in service, the pistons are likely to hit the from the hole in the tool. In the absence of an
valve heads, resulting in extensive (and 6.8 Mark the direction of rotation on the object of the specified weight, a spring
expensive) damage. belt, if it is to be re-used balance can be used to exert the required
 TU series engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7

7.10 Use the fabricated tool shown to lock 7.11a Remove the crankshaft sprocket
flywheel ring gear and prevent the retaining b o l t . . .
crankshaft rotating

6 Slacken the camshaft sprocket retaining

7 Timing belt tensioner and bolt and remove it, along with its washer. To
sprockets - prevent the camshaft rotating as the bolt is
removal, inspection and refitting slackened, a sprocket-holding tool will be
required. Do not attempt to use the sprocket
locking pin to prevent the sprocket from
Note: This Section describes the removal and
rotating whilst the bolt is slackened.
refitting of the components concerned as
individual operations. If more than one of them
6.14 Using the Citroen special tool to is to be removed at the same time, start by
tension the timing belt removing the timing belt as described in
force, ensuring that the spring balance is held Section 6; remove the actual component as
at 90° to the tool arm. Slacken the pulley described below, ignoring the preliminary
retaining nut, allowing the weight or force dismantling steps.
exerted (as applicable) to push the tensioner
Removal
pulley against the belt, then retighten the
pulley nut. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
15 If the special tool is not available, an 2 Position the engine assembly/valve timing
approximate setting may be achieved as holes as described in Section 3, and lock both
follows. Slacken the pulley retaining nut, and the camshaft sprocket and flywheel in
pivot the tensioner pulley anti-clockwise until position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine
it is just possible to turn the timing belt whilst the pins are in position.
through 90° by finger and thumb, midway To prevent the camshaft sprocket from
Camshaft sprocket rotating, use two lengths of steel strip
between the crankshaft and camshaft
sprockets. The square hole in the tensioner 3 Remove the centre timing belt cover as (one long, the other short), and three
pulley hub should be directly below the described in Section 5. nuts and bolts; one nut and bolt forms
retaining nut, and the deflection of the belt at 4 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley the pivot of a forked tool, with the
the mid-point between the sprockets should retaining nut. Rotate the pulley in a clockwise remaining two nuts and bolts at the
be approximately 6.0 mm. If this method is direction, using a suitable square-section key tips of the "forks" to engage with the
used, the belt tension should be checked by a fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then sprocket spokes.
Citroen dealer at the earliest possible retighten the retaining nut.
opportunity. 5 Disengage the timing belt from the
sprocket, and move the belt clear, taking care 7 With the retaining bolt removed, slide the
16 Remove the locking pins from the
not to bend or twist it sharply. Remove the sprocket off the end of the camshaft. If the
camshaft sprocket and flywheel.
locking pin from the camshaft sprocket. locating peg is a loose fit in the rear of the
17 Using a suitable socket and extension bar
on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, rotate the
crankshaft through four complete rotations in
a clockwise direction (viewed from the right-
hand end of the engine). Do not at any time
rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise.
18 Slacken the tensioner pulley nut, re-
tension the belt using one of the methods just
described, then tighten the tensioner pulley
nut to the specified torque.
19 Rotate the crankshaft through a further
two turns clockwise, and check that both the
camshaft sprocket and flywheel timing holes
are still correctly aligned.
20 If all is well, refit the timing belt covers as
described in Section 5, and reconnect the 7.11b . . . then slide off the sprocket 7.12 Remove the flanged spacer if
battery negative terminal. necessary
2A•8 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

sprocket, remove it for safe-keeping. Examine sprocket on the end of the camshaft. Ensure 33 Tension the belt as described in
the camshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage that the locating peg is correctly engaged with paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6.
and, if necessary, renew it as described in the cutout in the camshaft end. 34 Refit the timing belt covers as described
Section 8. 18 Refit the sprocket retaining bolt and in Section 5.
washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified
Crankshaft sprocket
torque, whilst retaining the sprocket with the
8 Remove the centre and lower timing belt tool used on removal.
covers as described in Section 5. 19 Realign the timing hole in the camshaft 8 Camshaft oil seal - renewal
9 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley sprocket (see Section 3) with the
retaining nut. Rotate the pulley in a clockwise corresponding hole in the cylinder head, and
direction, using a suitable square-section key refit the locking pin. Note: If the camshaft oil seal is to be renewed
fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then with the timing belt still in place, check first
20 Refit the timing belt to the camshaft
retighten the retaining nut. sprocket. Ensure that the "front run" of the that the belt is free from oil contamination.
10 To prevent crankshaft rotation whilst the belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the (Renew the belt as a matter of course if signs
sprocket retaining bolt is slackened, select tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist of oil contamination are found; see Section 6.)
top gear, and have an assistant apply the the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure Cover the belt to protect it from oil
brakes firmly. If the engine has been removed that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the contamination while work is in progress.
from the vehicle, lock the flywheel ring gear, sprockets. Ensure that all traces of oil are removed from
using an arrangement similar to that shown the area before the belt is refitted.
21 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
(see illustration). Do not be tempted to use 1 Remove the camshaft sprocket as
Rotate the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
the flywheel locking pin to prevent the described in Section 7.
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
crankshaft from rotating; temporarily remove 2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
the nut.
the locking pin from the rear of the flywheel each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping
22 Tension the belt as described in
prior to slackening the pulley bolt, then refit it screw into each, and pull on the screws with
paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6.
once the bolt has been slackened. Disengage pliers to extract the seal.
the timing belt from the sprocket, and move 23 Refit the timing belt covers as described
in Section 5. 3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
the belt clear, taking care not to bend or twist burrs or raised edges, which may have
it sharply. Crankshaft sprocket caused the seal to fail in the first place.
11 Unscrew the retaining bolt and washer, 24 Where removed, locate the Woodruff key 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
then slide the sprocket off the end of the in the crankshaft end, then slide on the engine oil, and drive it into position until it
crankshaft (see illustrations). Refit the flanged spacer, aligning its slot with the seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable
locating pin to the rear of the timing hole in the Woodruff key. tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
rear of the flywheel. 25 Align the crankshaft sprocket slot with the only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take
12 If the Woodruff key is a loose fit in the Woodruff key, and slide it onto the end of the care not to damage the seal lips during fitting.
crankshaft, remove it and store it with the crankshaft. Note that the seal lips should face inwards.
sprocket for safe-keeping. If necessary, also 26 Temporarily remove the locking pin from 5 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
slide the flanged spacer off the end of the the rear of the flywheel, then refit the Section 7.
crankshaft (see illustration). Examine the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and
crankshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage and, washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified
if necessary, renew as described in Sec- torque, whilst preventing crankshaft rotation 9 Camshaft and rocker
tion 13. using the method employed on removal. Refit arms - removal,
Tensioner pulley the locking pin to the rear of the flywheel.
inspection and refitting
27 Relocate the timing belt on the crankshaft
13 Remove the centre timing belt cover as
sprocket. Ensure that the "front run" of the
described in Section 5.
belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the General information
14 Slacken and remove the timing belt tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist
tensioner pulley retaining nut, and slide the 1 The rocker arm assembly is secured to the
the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure
pulley off its mounting stud. Examine the top of the cylinder head by the cylinder head
that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the
mounting stud for signs of damage and, if sprockets. bolts. Although in theory it is possible to undo
necessary, renew it. the head bolts and remove the rocker arm
28 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
assembly without removing the head, in
Inspection Rotate the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
practice, this is not recommended. Once the
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
15 Clean the sprockets thoroughly, and bolts have been removed, the head gasket will
the nut.
renew any that show signs of wear, damage be disturbed, and the gasket will almost
29 Tension the belt as described in
or cracks. certainly leak or blow after refitting. For this
paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6.
16 Clean the tensioner assembly, but do not reason, removal of the rocker arm assembly
30 Refit the timing belt covers as described
use any strong solvent which may enter the cannot be done without removing the cylinder
in Section 5.
pulley bearing. Check that the pulley rotates head and renewing the head gasket.
freely about its hub, with no sign of stiffness Tensioner pulley 2 The camshaft is slid out of the right-hand
or of free play. Renew the tensioner pulley if 31 Refit the tensioner pulley to its mounting end of the cylinder head, and therefore cannot
there is any doubt about its condition, or if stud, and fit the retaining nut. be removed without first removing the
there are any obvious signs of wear or 32 Ensure that the "front run" of the belt is cylinder head, due to a lack of clearance.
damage.
taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the pulley Removal
Refitting side of the belt. Check that the belt is centrally
located on all its sprockets. Rotate the pulley Rocker arm assembly
Camshaft sprocket anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the 3 Remove the cylinder head as described in
17 Refit the locating peg (where removed) to timing belt, then tighten the pulley retaining Section 10.
the rear of the sprocket, then locate the nut securely. 4 To dismantle the rocker arm assembly,
 TU series engine in-car repair procedures 2A•9

9.5a To remove the left-hand pedestal,

9.4 Remove the circlip, and slide the lock two nuts together and unscrew the 9.5b . . . then remove the grub screw
cpmponents off the end of the rocker arm stud . . .

carefully prise off the circlip from the right- Inspection journal wear can be checked by direct
hand end of the rocker shaft; retain the rocker measurement, noting that No 1 journal is at
Rocker arm assembly the transmission end of the head.
pedestal, to prevent it being sprung off the
end of the shaft. Slide the various 10 Examine the rocker arm bearing surfaces 14 Examine the thrust fork for signs of wear
components off the end of the shaft, keeping which contact the camshaft lobes for wear or scoring, and renew as necessary.
all components in their correct fitted order. ridges and scoring. Renew any rocker arms
Make a note of each component's correct on which these conditions are apparent. If a Refitting
fitted position/orientation as it is removed, to rocker arm bearing surface is badly scored, Rocker arm assembly
ensure it is fitted correctly on reassembly (see also examine the corresponding lobe on the 15 If the rocker arm assembly was
illustration). camshaft for wear, as it is likely that both will dismantled, refit the rocker shaft to the left-
5 To separate the left-hand pedestal and be worn. Renew worn components as hand pedestal, aligning its locating hole with
shaft, first unscrew the cylinder head cover necessary. The rocker arm assembly can be the pedestal threaded hole. Refit the grub
retaining stud from the top of the pedestal; dismantled as described in paragraphs 4 and screw, and tighten it securely. With the grub
this can be achieved using a stud extractor, or 5. screw in position, refit the cylinder head cover
two nuts locked together. With the stud 11 Inspect the ends of the (valve clearance) mounting stud to the pedestal, and tighten it
removed, unscrew the grub screw from the adjusting screws for signs of wear or damage, securely. Apply a smear of clean engine oil to
top of the pedestal, and withdraw the rocker and renew as required. the shaft, then slide on all removed
shaft (see illustrations). 12 If the rocker arm assembly has been components, ensuring each is correctly fitted
dismantled, examine the rocker arm and shaft in its original position. Once all components
Camshaft bearing surfaces for wear ridges and scoring. are in position on the shaft, compress the
6 Remove the cylinder head as described in If there are obvious signs of wear, the relevant right-hand pedestal and refit the circlip.
Section 10. rocker arm(s) and/or the shaft must be Ensure that the circlip is correctly located in
7 With the head on a bench, remove the renewed. its groove on the shaft.
locating pin, then remove the camshaft Camshaft 16 Refit the cylinder head and rocker arm
sprocket as described in paragraphs 6 and 7 13 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces assembly as described in Section 10.
of Section 7. and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and Camshaft
8 Undo the retaining bolt, and remove the scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these 17 Ensure that the cylinder head and
camshaft thrust fork from the left-hand end of conditions are apparent. Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces are clean, then
the cylinder head (see illustration). condition of the bearing surfaces, both on the liberally oil the camshaft bearings and lobes.
9 Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver, camshaft journals and in the cylinder head. If Slide the camshaft back into position in the
carefully prise the oil seal out of the right-hand the head bearing surfaces are worn cylinder head. On carburettor engines, take
end of the cylinder head, then slide out the excessively, the cylinder head will need to be care that the fuel pump operating lever is not
camshaft (see illustrations). Discard the seal renewed. If the necessary measuring trapped by the camshaft as it is slid into
a new one must be used on refitting. equipment is available, camshaft bearing position.

9.8 Undo the retaining bolt, and remove 9.9a . . . prise out the oil s e a l . . . 9.9b . . . and slide out the camshaft
the camshaft thrust fork (arrowed)...
2A•10 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

18 Locate the thrust fork with the left-hand (a) Depressurise the fuel system, and 18 If it is necessary to remove the engine
end of the camshaft. Refit the fork retaining disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses mounting, place a jack beneath the engine,
bolt, tightening it to the specified torque from the throttle body (plug all openings, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise
setting. to prevent loss of fuel and the entry of dirt the jack until it is supporting the weight of the
19 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with into the system). engine.
clean engine oil, then drive it into position until (b) Disconnect the accelerator cable. 19 Slacken and remove the three nuts
it seats on its locating shoulder. Use a (c) Disconnect the three electrical connector securing the right-hand engine/transmission
suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which plugs from the throttle body. mounting bracket to the engine. Remove the
bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal. (d) Disconnect the vacuum servo unit single nut securing the bracket to the
Take care not to damage the seal lips during vacuum hose, coolant hose and all the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket.
fitting. Note that the seal lips should face other relevant vacuum/breather hoses 20 Working in the reverse of the sequence
inwards. from the inlet manifold. shown in illustration 10.40a, progressively
20 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described 10 Remove the centre timing belt cover as slacken the ten cylinder head bolts by half a
in paragraphs 17 to 19 of Section 7. described in Section 5. turn at a time, until all bolts can be unscrewed
21 Refit the cylinder head as described in 11 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley by hand.
Section 10. retaining nut. Pivot the pulley in a clockwise 21 With all the cylinder head bolts removed,
direction, using a suitable square-section key lift the rocker arm assembly off the cylinder
fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then head. Note the locating pins which are fitted
10 Cylinder head - to the base of each rocker arm pedestal. If
retighten the retaining nut.
removal and refitting 12 Disengage the timing belt from the any pin is a loose fit in the head or pedestal,
camshaft sprocket, and position the belt clear remove it for safe-keeping.
Removal of the sprocket. Ensure that the belt is not too 22 The joint between the cylinder head and
bent or twisted sharply. gasket and the cylinder block/crankcase must
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 13 Slacken the retaining clips, and now be broken without disturbing the wet
2 Drain the cooling system as described in disconnect the coolant hoses from the liners. Although these liners are better-located
Chapter 1. thermostat housing (on the left-hand end of and sealed than on some other wet-liner
3 Remove the cylinder head cover as the cylinder head). engines, there is still a risk of coolant and
described in Section 4. 14 Depress the retaining clip(s), and foreign matter leaking into the sump if the
4 Align the engine assembly/valve timing disconnect the wiring connector(s) from the cylinder head is lifted carelessly. If care is not
holes as described in Section 3, and lock both electrical switch and/or sensor(s) which are taken and the liners are moved, there is also a
the camshaft sprocket and flywheel in screwed into the thermostat housing (as possibility of the bottom seals being
position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine appropriate). disturbed, causing leakage after refitting the
whilst the pins are in position. head.
5 Note that the following text assumes that
Models with a distributor
23 To break the joint, obtain two L-shaped
the cylinder head will be removed with both 15 Disconnect the LT wiring connectors from metal bars which fit into the cylinder head bolt
inlet and exhaust manifolds attached; this is the distributor and HT coil. Release the TDC holes. Gently "rock" the cylinder head free
easier, but makes it a bulky and heavy sensor wiring connector from the side of the towards the front of the car (see illustration).
assembly to handle. If it is wished to remove coil mounting bracket, and disconnect the Do not try to swivel the head on the cylinder
the manifolds first, proceed as described in vacuum pipe from the distributor vacuum block/crankcase; it is located by dowels, as
Chapter 4. diaphragm unit. If the cylinder head is to be well as by the tops of the liners.
6 Working as described in Chapter 4, dismantled for overhaul, remove the
24 When the joint is broken, lift the cylinder
disconnect the exhaust system front pipe distributor and ignition HT coil as described in
head away; seek assistance if possible, as it is
from the manifold. Where fitted, disconnect or Chapter 5; disconnect the HT leads from the
a heavy assembly, especially if it is complete
release the lambda sensor wiring, so that it is spark plugs, and remove the distributor cap
with the manifolds. Remove the gasket from
not strained by the weight of the exhaust. and lead assembly. If the cylinder numbers
the top of the block, noting the two locating
are not already marked on the HT leads,
7 Remove the air cleaner housing and intake dowels. If the locating dowels are a loose fit,
number each lead, to avoid the possibility of
duct assembly as described in Chapter 4. remove them and store them with the head for
the leads being incorrectly connected on
8 On carburettor engines, disconnect the safe-keeping. Do not discard the gasket - it
refitting.
following from the carburettor and inlet will be needed for identification purposes (see
manifold as described in Chapter 4: Models with a distributorless ignition paragraphs 30 and 31).
(a) Fuel feed hose from the pump and the system
return hose from the anti-percolation 16 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
chamber (plug all openings, to prevent ignition HT coil. If the cylinder head is to be
loss of fuel and the entry of dirt into the dismantled for overhaul, remove the ignition
system). HT coil as described in Chapter 5. Note that
(b) Accelerator cable. the HT leads should be disconnected from the
(c) Choke cable. spark plugs instead of the coil, and the coil
(d) Carburettor coolant hoses - 1124 cc and leads removed as an assembly. If the
models. cylinder numbers are not already marked on
(e) Carburettor heating element and idle cut- the HT leads, number each lead, to avoid the
off solenoid wiring connector(s) - 1360 cc possibility of the leads being incorrectly
models. connected on refitting.
(f) Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose, coolant
hose and all other relevant All models
breather/vacuum hoses from the 17 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
manifold. engine oil dipstick tube to the cylinder head,
9 On fuel injection engines, carry out the and withdraw the tube from the cylinder 10.23 Using two angled metal rods to free
following operations as described in Chapter 4: block. the cylinder head from the block
 TU series engine in-car repair procedures 2A•11

25 Do not attempt to rotate the crankshaft 29 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
with the cylinder head removed, otherwise the surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
wet liners may be displaced. Operations that check it for distortion. Refer to Part C of this
require the rotation of the crankshaft (eg Chapter if necessary.
cleaning the piston crowns), should only be 30 When purchasing a new cylinder head
carried out once the cylinder liners are firmly gasket, it is essential that a gasket of the
camped in position. correct thickness is obtained. There are two
different thicknesses available - the standard
Cylinder liners can be gasket which is fitted at the factory, and a
clamped in position using slightly thicker gasket (+ 0.2 mm), for use
large flat washers positioned once the head gasket face has been
underneath suitable-length machined. The two gaskets can be identified
bolts. Alternatively, the original head as follows, using the cutouts on the left-hand
bolts could be temporarily refitted, with end of the gasket (see illustration).
suitable spacers fitted to their shanks.
31 With the gasket fitted the correct way up
on the cylinder block, there will be a single
26 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for cutout at the rear of the left-hand side of the '
overhaul, remove the camshaft as described gasket identifying the engine type (eg TU
in Section 9, then refer to Part C of this engine). In the centre of the gasket, there may
Chapter. be another series of up to four cutouts
Preparation for refitting identifying the manufacturer of the gasket,
and whether or not it contains asbestos (these
27 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cutouts are of little importance). The important
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
cutout location is at the front of the gasket. On 10.30 TU engine series gasket markings
clean before refitting the head. Use a hard
the standard-thickness gasket, there will be
plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of A Engine type identification cutouts
no cutout in this position; on the thicker,
gasket and carbon; also clean the piston B Gasket manufacturer identification cutouts
"repair" gasket, there will be a single cutout.
crowns. Refer to paragraph 25 before turning C Gasket thickness identification cutout
Identify the gasket type, and ensure the new
the engine. Take particular care during the
gasket obtained is of the correct thickness. If
cleaning operations, as the soft aluminium
alloy is damaged easily. Also, make sure that there is any doubt as to which gasket is fitted, Refitting
the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and take the old gasket along to your Citroen 34 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
water passages - this is particularly important dealer, and have the dealer confirm the gasket cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
for the lubrication system, as carbon could type. Check that the two locating dowels are in
block the oil supply to the engine's 32 Check the condition of the cylinder head position at each end of the cylinder
components. Using adhesive tape and paper, bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever block/crankcase surface and, if necessary,
seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the they are removed. Wash the bolts in suitable remove the cylinder liner clamps.
cylinder block/crankcase. To prevent carbon solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each for 35 Position a new gasket on the cylinder
entering the gap between the pistons and any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing block/crankcase surface, ensuring that its
bores, smear a little grease in the gap. After any bolt if necessary. Measure the length of identification cutouts are at the left-hand end
cleaning each piston, use a small brush to each bolt, to check for stretching (although of the gasket (see illustration).
remove all traces of grease and carbon from this is not a conclusive test, in the event that 36 Check that the flywheel and camshaft
the gap, then wipe away the remainder with a all ten bolts have stretched by the same sprocket are still correctly locked in position
clean rag. Clean all the pistons in the same amount). Although Citroen do not actually with their respective pins. With the aid of an
way. specify that the bolts must be renewed, it is assistant, carefully refit the cylinder head
28 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder strongly recommended that the bolts should assembly to the block, aligning it with the
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for be renewed as a complete set whenever they locating dowels (see illustration).
nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If are disturbed. 37 Ensure that the locating pins are in
slight, they may be removed carefully with a 33 Prior to refitting the cylinder head, check position in the base of each rocker pedestal,
file, but if excessive, machining may be the the cylinder liner protrusion as described in then refit the rocker arm assembly to the
only alternative to renewal. Part C of this Chapter. cylinder head (see illustration).

10.35 Locate the cylinder head gasket on 10.36 . . . then lower the cylinder head into 10.37 . . . and refit the rocker arm
the block . . . position . . . assembly
2A•12 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

. 10.40a Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence
38 Apply a smear of grease to the threads,
and to the underside of the heads, of the
cylinder head bolts. Citroen recommend the 10.40b Working in the sequence shown, 10.41 . . . then through the angle specified
use of Molykote G10 grease (available from tighten the head bolts first to the stage 1 for stage 2
your Citroen dealer); in the absence of the torque setting . . .
(e) Refit the air cleaner housing and intake
specified grease, a good-quality high-melting- correctly reconnected. If the head was not duct.
point grease may be used. stripped, reconnect the wiring connector and 53 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve
39 Carefully enter each bolt into its relevant vacuum pipe to the distributor, and the HT clearances as described in Chapter 1, then
hole (do not drop them in) and screw in, by lead to the coil; clip the TDC sensor wiring refit the cylinder head cover as described in
hand only, until finger-tight. connector onto the coil bracket. Section 4.
40 Working progressively and in the 54 On completion, reconnect the battery,
sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head Models with a distributorless ignition
system and refill the cooling system as described in
bolts to their stage 1 torque setting, using a Chapter 1.
torque wrench and suitable socket (see 49 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit
illustrations). the ignition HT coil and leads as described in
41 Once all the bolts have been tightened to Chapter 5, ensuring that the leads are 11 Sump - removal and refitting
their stage 1 setting, working again in the correctly reconnected. If the head was not
given sequence, angle-tighten the bolts stripped, simply reconnect the wiring
through the specified stage 2 angle, using a connector to the HT coil.
socket and extension bar. It is recommended
Removal
All models 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
that an angle-measuring gauge is used during
this stage of the tightening, to ensure 50 Reconnect the wiring connector(s) to the the front of the vehicle and support it on axle
accuracy (see illustration). If a gauge is not coolant switch/sensor(s) on the left-hand end stands. Disconnect the battery negative lead.
available, use white paint to make alignment of the head. 2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
marks between the bolt head and cylinder 51 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
head prior to tightening; the marks can then thermostat housing, securely tightening their specified torque. If the engine is nearing its
be used to check that the bolt has been retaining clips. service interval when the oil and filter are due
rotated through the correct angle during 52 Working as described in the relevant Part for renewal, it is recommended that the filter is
tightening. of Chapter 4, carry out the following tasks: also removed, and a new one fitted. After
(a) Refit all disturbed wiring, hoses and reassembly, the engine can then be refilled
42 With the cylinder head bolts correctly
control cable(s) to the inlet manifold and with fresh oil. Refer to Chapter 1 for further
tightened, refit the right-hand engine
fuel system components. information.
mounting bracket, and tighten its retaining
(b) On carburettor models, reconnect and 3 Remove the exhaust system front pipe as
nuts to the specified torque. The jack can then
adjust the choke and accelerator cables. described in Chapter 4.
be removed from underneath the engine.
(c) On fuel injection models, reconnect and 4 Progressively slacken and remove all the
43 Refit the dipstick tube to the engine, and
adjust the accelerator cable. sump retaining nuts and bolts (see illustration).
securely tighten its retaining bolt.
(d) Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe 5 Break the joint by striking the sump with the
44 Refit the timing belt to the camshaft
to the manifold. Where applicable, palm of your hand, then lower the sump and
sprocket. Ensure that the "front run" of the
reconnect the lambda sensor wiring withdraw it from underneath the vehicle (see
belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the
connector. illustration).
tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist
the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure
that the belt teeth are correctly seated
centrally in the sprockets.
45 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
Pivot the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut.
46 Tension the belt as described in
paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6.
47 Refit the centre and upper timing belt
covers as described in Section 5.
Models with a distributor
48 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit
the distributor and HT coil as described in 11.4 Slacken and remove the sump 11.5 . . . then remove the sump from the
Chapter 5, ensuring that the HT leads are retaining nuts and bolts . . . engine
 TU series engine in-car repair procedures 2A•13

6 While the sump is removed, take the

opportunity to check the oil pump pick-
up/strainer for signs of clogging or splitting. If
necessary, remove the pump as described in
Section 12, and clean or renew the strainer.
Refitting
7 Clean all traces of sealant from the mating
surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and
sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out the
sump and the engine's interior.
8 Ensure that the sump and cylinder
block/crankcase mating surfaces are clean
and dry, then apply a coating of suitable
sealant to the sump mating surface. Citroen 12.2 Oil pump is retained by three bolts 13.2 Using a screwdriver to lever out the
recommend the use of Auto-Joint E10 sealant crankshaft front oil seal
(available from your Citroen dealer); in the
absence of the specified sealant, any good- measured by comparing it with a new one; if 5 Using a suitable tubular drift (such as a
quality sealant may be used. there is any doubt about its condition, it socket) which bears only on the hard outer
9 Offer up the sump, locating it on its should also be renewed. Both the piston and edge of the seal, tap the seal into position, to
retaining studs, and refit its retaining nuts and spring are available individually. the same depth in the housing as the original
bolts. Tighten the nuts and bolts evenly and 7 Thoroughly clean the oil pump strainer with was prior to removal.
progressively to the specified torque. a suitable solvent, and check it for signs of 6 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
10 Refit the exhaust front pipe as described clogging or splitting. If the strainer is crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 7.
in Chapter 4. damaged, the strainer and cover assembly
11 Replenish the engine oil as described in must be renewed. Left-hand oil seal
Chapter 1. 8 Locate the relief valve spring and piston in 7 Remove the flywheel as described in
the strainer cover, then refit the cover to the Section 14.
pump body. Align the relief valve piston with 8 Make a note of the correct fitted depth of
12 Oil pump - removal,
its bore in the pump. Refit the five cover the seal in its housing. Punch or drill two small
inspection and refitting retaining bolts, tightening them securely. holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a
self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the
Refitting screws with pliers to extract the seal.
Removal
9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in 9 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
1 Remove the sump as described in Sec- position, then locate the pump sprocket with burrs or raised edges, which may have
tion 11. its drive chain. Seat the pump on the main caused the seal to fail in the first place.
2 Slacken and remove the three bolts bearing ladder. Refit the pump retaining bolts, 10 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
securing the oil pump to the base of the main and tighten them to the specified torque clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal
bearing ladder (see illustration). Disengage setting. on the end of the crankshaft.
the pump sprocket from the chain, and
10 Refit the sump as described in Section 11. 11 Using a suitable tubular drift, which bears
remove the oil pump. If the pump locating
only on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive
dowel is a loose fit, remove and store it with
the seal into position, to the same depth in the
the retaining bolts for safe-keeping.
13 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal housing as the original was prior to removal.
Inspection 12 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
flywheel as described in Section 14.
3 Examine the oil pump sprocket for signs of
damage and wear, such as chipped or Right-hand oil seal
missing teeth. If the sprocket is worn, the 1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and 14 Flywheel - removal,
pump assembly must be renewed, since the flanged spacer as described in Section 7. inspection and refitting
sprocket is not available separately. It is also Secure the timing belt clear of the working
recommended that the chain and drive area, so that it cannot be contaminated with
sprocket, fitted to the crankshaft, be renewed oil. Make a note of the correct fitted depth of Removal
at the same time. Renewal of the chain and the seal in its housing. 1 Remove the transmission as described in
drive sprocket is an operation requiring the 2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite Chapter 7, then remove the clutch assembly
removal of the main bearing ladder, and each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping as described in Chapter 6.
cannot therefore be carried out with the screw into each, and pull on the screws with 2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
engine still fitted to the vehicle. Refer to Part C pliers to extract the seal. Alternatively, the seal the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement
for further information. can be levered out of position using a suitable to that shown in illustration 7.10 (Section 7).
4 Slacken and remove the five bolts securing flat-bladed screwdriver, taking great care not Alternatively, bolt a strap between the
the strainer cover to the pump body, then lift to damage the crankshaft shoulder or seal flywheel and the cylinder block/crankcase. Do
off the strainer cover. Remove the relief valve housing (see illustration). not attempt to lock the flywheel in position
piston and spring, noting which way round 3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any using the locking pin described in Section 3.
they are fitted. burrs or raised edges, which may have 3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining
5 Examine the pump rotors and body for caused the seal to fail in the first place. bolts, and discard them; they must be
signs of wear ridges and scoring. If worn, the 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean renewed whenever they are disturbed.
complete pump assembly must be renewed. engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the 4 Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is
6 Examine the relief valve piston for signs of end of crankshaft. Note that its sealing lip very heavy. If the locating dowel is a loose fit
wear or damage, and renew if necessary. The must face inwards. Take care not to damage in the crankshaft end, remove and store it with
condition of the relief valve spring can only be the seal lips during fitting. the flywheel for safe-keeping.
2A•14 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

Inspection check for wear in the mounting by carefully bracket. Lift the mounting rubber off its centre
levering against it to check for free play. stud.
5 If the flywheel's clutch mating surface is
Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an 17 Where necessary, slacken and remove
deeply scored, cracked or otherwise
assistant to move the engine/transmission the two mounting bolts (situated underneath
damaged, the flywheel must be renewed.
unit back and forth, or from side to side, while the bracket) securing the mounting bracket to
However, it may be possible to have it
you watch the mounting. While some free play the body, and remove the bracket from the
surface-ground; seek the advice of a Citroen
is to be expected even from new engine compartment. The transmission
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist.
components, excessive wear should be bracket can then be removed, once its three
6 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing obvious. If excessive free play is found, check mounting nuts have been undone.
teeth, it must be renewed. This job is best left first that the fasteners are correctly secured, 18 Check carefully for signs of wear or
to a Citroen dealer or engine reconditioning then renew any worn components as damage on all components, and renew them
specialist. The temperature to which the new described below. where necessary.
ring gear must be heated for installation is
19 Where necessary, refit the bracket to the
critical and, if not done accurately, the Renewal top of the transmission housing, tightening its
hardness of the teeth will be destroyed.
mounting nuts to the specified torque. Refit
Right-hand mounting the bracket to the body, and tighten its
Refitting
5 Disconnect the battery negative lead. retaining bolts to the specified torque.
7 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel 6 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a 20 Locate the mounting rubber on the
and crankshaft. Remove any remaining block of wood on the jack head. Raise the mounting stud, and refit its two mounting
locking compound from the threads of the jack until it is supporting the weight of the nuts, tightening them securely. Refit the
crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap, if engine. mounting centre nut and tighten to the
available. 7 Slacken and remove the three nuts specified torque. Remove the jack from
8 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not securing the right-hand engine/transmission underneath the transmission.
supplied with their threads already pre- mounting bracket to the engine. Remove the 21 Refit the battery support plate, tightening
coated, apply a suitable thread-locking single nut securing the bracket to the its retaining bolts securely. Refit the battery
compound to the threads of each bolt. Citroen mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket. and its tray as described in Chapter 5.
recommend the use of Frenetanch E3 8 Lift the rubber buffer plate off the mounting
(available from your Citroen dealer); in the rubber stud, then unscrew the mounting Rear mounting
absence of this, ensure that a good-quality rubber from the body and remove it from the 22 If not already done, firmly apply the
locking compound is used. vehicle. handbrake, then jack up the front of the
9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in 9 Check carefully for signs of wear or damage vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
position. Offer up the flywheel, locating it on on all components, and renew them where 23 Slacken and remove the nuts and bolts
the dowel, and fit the new retaining bolts. necessary. securing the mounting bracket to the rear
10 Lock the flywheel using the method 10 On reassembly, screw the mounting mounting assembly and the subframe, and
employed on dismantling, and tighten the rubber into the vehicle body, and tighten it manoeuvre the bracket out of position.
retaining bolts to the specified torque. securely. 24 To remove the rear mounting assembly, it
11 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6. 11 Refit the rubber buffer plate to the is first necessary to remove the right-hand
Remove the locking tool, and refit the mounting rubber stud, and install the driveshaft as described in Chapter 8.
transmission as described in Chapter 7. mounting bracket. 25 With the driveshaft removed, undo the
12 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining four bolts securing the mounting assembly to
nuts to the specified torque setting. the rear of the cylinder block, and remove it
15 Engine/transmission from underneath the vehicle.
13 Remove the jack from underneath the
mountings - 26 Check carefully for signs of wear or
engine, and reconnect the battery negative
inspection and renewal terminal. damage on all components, and renew them
where necessary. Note that it is not possible
Left-hand mounting to renew the mounting rubber separately, if
Inspection 14 Remove the battery and the battery tray, the rubber is damaged, the complete rear
1 If improved access is required, raise the as described in Chapter 5. Slacken and mounting assembly must be renewed.
front of the car and support it securely on axle remove the battery support plate mounting 27 On reassembly, fit the rear mounting
stands. bolts. Release the wiring from its retaining clip assembly to the rear of the cylinder block, and
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is on the plate, and remove the plate from the tighten its retaining bolts to the specified
cracked, hardened or separated from the engine compartment. torque. Refit the driveshaft as described in
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any 15 Place a jack beneath the transmission, Chapter 8.
such damage or deterioration is evident. with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise 28 Manoeuvre the mounting bracket into
3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are the jack until it is supporting the weight of the position, and refit the bolts securing it to the
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to transmission. mounting and subframe. Tighten each bolt to
check if possible. 16 Slacken and remove the mounting rubber its respective torque setting, then lower the
4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, centre nut, and the two nuts securing it to the vehicle to the ground.