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5th International Digital

Textile Congress 2018
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‘DIGITAL PLUGIN FOR
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5th InternationalTHE TEXTILE FACTORY OF

Digital
Textile Congress 2018 THE FUTURE’
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ORGANISATION
Organisation‘DIGITAL PLUGIN FOR
THE TEXTILE FACTORY OF
THE FUTURE’
27-28 September 2018
ORGANISATION
Organisation 27-28 September 2018

27-28 September 2018

Ghent - Belgium
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27-28 September 2018

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‘Digital Plugin for the Textile Factory of the Future’

Prof. Dr. em. Marc Van Parys – UNITEX
Ghent-Belgium

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Global Inkjet Systems © 2006/13

5th International Digital

Textile Congress 2018
UNITEX - in collaboration with ESMA - organized on 27-28 September 2018 its 5th International Digital Textile
congress 2018 in Ghent-Belgium. The biannual conference was organized at the new 3Square venue in Ghent-
Belgium. 262 participants representing 18 different countries joining together to debate the latest developments.
‘DIGITAL PLUGIN FOR
This two-day conference placed high emphasis on the actual state-of-the art and future trends in digital
technologies. 25 high level presentations guaranteed a very fruitful and well appreciated congress. Moreover, the

THE TEXTILE FACTORY OF

congress featured also an intensive networking area of 18 table tops. Finally, 78 people visited on Friday 28
September also the screen and digital division of the company Liebaert in Deinze (www.liebaert.com), specialized

ORGANISATION THE FUTURE’ 1

Organisation
27-28 September 2018
in premium elastic fabrics and narrows.

It’s clear that the congress becomes thé place to be and thé meeting point for progressive, creative textile and
companies as well as suppliers and research institutes.

Motto of the Digital Congress: Anticipating the future … assessing the impact
The world of textile is changing in a big way. What is going on in the production and process area’s that will have
an important impact on the textile and garment industry? On the one hand globalization, recognizing customer
demand, concerns and environmental legislations set pressure on the actual business. On the other hand, new
digital technologies create new opportunities in the near future. These emerging technologies will have a huge
impact and have the potential to revolutionize the business models. Today quality, colour, creativity and design
are the main issues. However, functionality comes more and more in the picture. Digital dyeing, coating/finishing
technologies will enable the textile industry to introduce more effective processes. They will enable cost effective
production of high-end products, more flexible production, and increased productivity with improved ecological
footprint (e.g. minimization of waste combined with efficient use of natural resources - energy, water and
chemicals - reducing VOC’s and HAP’s). In combination with in-line UV-technology layer-on-layer coating becomes
possible. Digital technologies will have strong potential in the production of new functional and smart textile
materials.

Part 1: State of the art of digital technologies in textile

1. Digital technologies Today

The growth of inkjet printing cannot be stopped!

At present the textile industry produces the majority of printed textile fabric by screen printing. However, as we
move into the digital age developments in DP on different levels (hardware, software, inkjet inks) are being
adapted more and more for the textile market. Inkjet printing is growing while growth in analog printing remains
stagnant or is even decreasing, especially in Europe. As illustrated in figure 1 digital textile printing fits with many
of the demands of Fast Fashion and scores better than screen printing except for the variable cost/lm, capital
DIGITAL VERSUS CONVENTIONAL
and maintenance cost.

What does Fast Fashion want? Digital Textile Printing Conventional Textile Printing
Free choice of color and # of colors Unlimited number of colors Maximum 24 colors, typical 6-8
Unlimited repeat Unlimited repeat Limited repeat length per design
Unlimited design flexibility Unlimited design flexibility Limited design flexibility
Low set up cost Lower set up cost (no screens) Higher set up cost (engrave screens)
Low variable cost Higher variable cost Lower variable cost per meter
Fast delivery time for first order Faster delivery time for first order Longer delivery time for first order
Fast delivery time for repeat order Faster delivery time for repeat order Longer delivery time for repeat order
Low capital investment Higher capital investment Lower capital investment
Low maintenance cost Higher maintenance cost (printheads) Lower maintenance cost
Green image Low environmental impact Considerable environmental impact
Figure 1: Conventional vs digital printing (J. Lindahl – SPGPrints)

2
inting: high
uantity of

higher
d by the

nce
)
re meters

= more

een costs) Figure 2: costs for digital printing vs rotary screen printing – different number of colours and run length
(source: Gherzi – SPGPrints) Source: Gherzi

Figure 2 illustrates that long runs are cheaper in conventional printing: high initial costs are distributed over a
large quantity of meters while the variable costs are lower. On the other hand, short runs are cheaper in digital
printing: higher variable costs per meter are compensated by the lack of initial costs. But according to J. Lindahl
(SPGPrints) a lot of factors have also an influence such as number of colours (more colours means more screens),
number of colourways (more colourways measn more meters with the same screens), number of repeat orders
(more repeat orders or more meters with same screens) and finally number of designs (more designs means
more screen costs).

As DP technologies improve offering faster production and larger cost-effective print runs, DP will grow to
become the technology that provides the majority of the world’s printed textiles.
Today, digital inkjet technology accounts for roughly 4 % (about 2 billion m2) of textile printed market according
to several sources (WTIN, Dystar, Zimmer and SPGPrints). However, these figures are expected to rise as an
increasing number of end users begin to run digital and analogue technology side by side or switch over to digital
completely. According to WTIN more than 37.000 digital printers are in operation worldwide. Already in the first
half of 2017 2300 new printers were installed. The number of printer units is estimated above 7.800 in Europe
(share: 35%) and above 12.000 in Asia (share: 45%). Actually, the top 5 countries investing in digital technologies
are China, India, Turkey, Italy and USA. Emerging countries include following countries Spain, Portugal, Mexico,
Bangladesh, Vietnam and Pakistan. In some of these countries the annual growth rates lies between 17-25%. The
global output volume share is displayed in figure 3. Although the number of operational digital printers in Europe
is lower compared to Asia the total production of digital printed textile is bigger.

3
 Global Output Volume Share - 2016

Europe
Turkey
Russia

sqm: > 495.733.870 38,5 Asia

9,6 units: 7.809
%
%
37%

N- America 4,4
sqm: 439.376.400
% units: 12.609
sqm: 111.143.396
units: 4.149 3,5%

Mid-East

Some Facts Some Facts

Surfaces tell stories S- America
5%
Africa

sqm: 39.222.156
units: 1.683
sqm: 37.003.546
units: 1.514
2%
sqm: 63.722.380
units: 1.310 Australia
Indonesia

Source: WTIN Digital Printers sqm: 32.522.510

units: 641
Zschimmer & Schwarz (DE))
• > 37.000 digital printers in operation worldwide
Figure 3: global output volume share in 2016 (sources: WTIN & Zschimmer & Schwartz)
• 2.300 new printers in 1st half of 2017

Developments on level of printers, inkjet inks and chemicals allow to print all kinds of textiles and fibres we can
imagine: from light weight silk fabric, shirt textile
Digital Printed toTextile
towels,–window blindsprinted
4% of total and heavy articles like blankets and
market
even carpet. Most important markets for digital printing are textile graphics, apparel and home textile (indoor
• > 1.7 billion m2 digital printed textile - expected: 2
and outdoor, steady growing market). Future-oriented markets are tech textile or industrial textile such as
billion m2 in 2020
protective, architectural, transport textile (cruise ships, airplanes, automotive) … Today transfer printing on PES
• Direct printing 32%
still have the biggest market share with 68%, direct printing is good for 38% of the digital printed textile
• Transfer printing 68%

Applications
• Fashion – Apparel (> 40%)
• Hometextile (12 %) (carpet – upholstery – curtains…)
• Tech Textile (tents – automotive - medical – sails – parasols …)
• Visual communication ( Displays – Signage)

Figure 4: overview of applications of digital printed textile

Ink consumption
Forces shaping
• > 17 mioand changing the Textile Industry
liters
The textile and garment industry are facing different forces shaping and changing the industries.

E-commerce Sustainability
E-commerce Personalization
Online purchasing
On-line purchasing

Forces shaping and changing the textile industry

The power of digital technologies enables the revolutionizing the fundamentals of the whole supply chain. The
paradigms of production processes change; whereby the introduction of production ink-jet printing systems
pushes towards the transformation of new business models in the textile and fashion industries. Digitalization
creates a lot of possibilities for e-commerce and new business models and forces the textile and garment industry
to adapt to changing consumer behaviour. The trend is clear; the production lines of the brands are changing
significantly to reflect in time the market demands that increasingly go towards customisation, material
sustainability, product quality, on demand and just in time.

4
 Shrinking our Footprint
is a Must

Another hot issue is sustainability in printing. The actual share of water cost and consumption and related energy
cost for drying is high, the incentive for change is yet high. Moreover, water is becoming a major concern for the
textile industry facing the ever-increasing scarcity of water and some tough challenges with stricter regulations
that govern sustainability and environmental business practice. Despite source reduction strategies, the printing
industry has still the challenge or obligation to reduce its ecological footprint and limit natural resources (water
– energy). To address the deficiencies of traditional printing there is an urgent need to (partial or complete)
switch from analog to digital printing.
When using digital technologies water consumption is strongly reduced (> 60%), the related thermal energy
savings are > 70% and usage of electricity fell 30% compared to conventional rotary screen printing. In addition,
the amount of wastewater drops down and the required space for machinery is strongly reduced. The lower
ecological impact is illustrated in figure below.

Water Consumption

Rotary
• 50-60 liter
6 color water/lm
printer

• 14-20 liter
Digital water/lm or a
Which equals over printer saving of 60-
300.000 olympic swimming pools 70%

• Suppose all linear

meters printed change
Sustainability in from rotary to digital -
Digital Printing This means a saving of
760 billion liters of
Source: SPGPrints water

Figure5: testimonial from a German printer company

with a screen & digital printing division

2. Actual state-of-art concerning main components of digital printing

Successful implementation of inkjet technology in the textile industry is based on machine integration, the
proper selection and adjusting to one another of the main components (inkjet inks, printheads, RIP-software,
pre- and postprocesses of textile), and above all choosing the right strategies to match and adapt the specific
needs of the individual application.

5
 Hardware
• Software

• Inkjet inks

Main Components
• Hardware

• Textile

• Skilled People
Figure 6: main components of digital printing

The inkjet ink is the key to the final performance and ultimate acceptance of the print and the application.
Printhead has a defines strongly the print quality. RIP-software (Raster Imaging Processor) is important because
the printer requires more than just the ability to print. RIP includes a variety of functions for different
applications. Consequently, an optimal software is required for successful colour design and management and
can also contribute to a less consumption of inkjet inks.
However, be aware that production speed and print quality are not only printer related. In case of printing speed
other factors such as fabric type of weave, fabric weight, design’s coverage, kind of design and quantity of ink to
apply are also important. Print quality depends also on fabric quality, state of the preservation of the digital
printer, production’s chain cycles, human factor (operator’s sensibility and job culture) ànd deals largely with
fabric preparation, conventional and specific pretreatment for digital printing. Typical pretreatment for direct
digital printing with waterbased inks involves an ideal chemical primer in order to obtain finally the best print
results in terms of resolution, opacity, contour sharpness, register strength and realizable colour profile.
This development has an impact on the complete production chain and requirements of applied textile
auxiliaries. To fulfil these new requests many companies have developed specific auxiliaries for the pretreatment
in case of direct printing. TANATEX has developed the TANA®JET-range for inkjet preparation (S. Hane – Tanatex
– NL). Products can be applied using spray, screen, padding or valve-jet technologies.

TANA®JET - Sustainable Concept for inkjet preparation

In addition to core products, further auxiliaries to improve printing results are offered

Type Products Fibre type

Cellulosic Polyamide Polyester Wool Silk

TANA®JET Wet R
Penetration
Shade depth TANA®JET Wet A
Sharpness
TANA®JET Wet PT

Anti-reducing agent TANA®JET Oxi R

TANA®JET EP 4028
Fixation accelerators
TANA®JET EP 4031

Defoamer & deaerator TANA®JET AIR NF

* M, A and D stand for Multiple, Acid or Disperse ink.

Figure 7: Tana®Jet products from Tanatex

Properties
21
per application process are illustrated in figure below.

6
 Properties per application process

Figure 8: properties in function of application method

In short, in order to obtain optimal results from a digital textile printer, the main components must be well
balanced and
16 considerations for the production process and its distinct but related stages are essential.
Therefore, for many end-applications an off-the-shell solution meeting all the necessary creative and technical
requirements is not always evident.

2. Why is growing occurring fast?

Many technological developments on the level of inkjet inks and printheads boost the digital printed market. We
notice continuous improvements of the quality inkjet inks (disperse and pigment inks) and a broader range of
inkjet inks (latex, vat inks). New printheads characterized by higher firing frequency and higher jetting volume,
circulating printheads and self-cleaning printheads go beyond the inkjet bounderies to enhance application
performance.

Why is growing occuring ?

Technology Supply

Inkjet inks - Improved quality inkjet inks

- Better dispersion technology
- Broader range of inkjet inks New Doubled-sided printers
- White inks (pigment) Digital
Printers for narrow fabrics - yarns
Printers
New - Higher firing frequency – speed
generation - High volume print heads Adapted printers for attributes (f.e.
shoes, bags…)
print heads - Circulating print heads Width printers up > 5 -12 m
- Self cleaning print heads

Figure 9: technology supply in digital technologies

2. 1. Digital printers

The digital printers based on piezo-technology can be divided and classified according to their production speed
in four categories as illustrated in figure below. The majority (85%) of the printers are multipass printers. The ‘F1’
printers (MS – IT, SPGprints – NL, Efi-Regianni – IT) are based on single pass printers with comparable speed to
traditional printing machines. According to WTIN the majority (> 60%) of printed textile worldwide is done on
printers belonging to category 3 (such as SPGPrints, Efi-Regianni, Durst, Zimmer, Konica-Minolta …).

7
 APPLICATION SOLUTIONS PRINTER SOLUT

PIKE JAVELIN
• Investment 2,5 3,5 mio • Investmen
• Maximum speed 40 m/min, cruising speed 15-30 m/min • Maximum
• Printing width 1.85m • Printing w
• 4-9 colors • 6 colors
• Reactive (other inks coming in 2019)
Figure 10: 4 categories of digital printers according to their printing speed
• Reactive,
• Suitable for volumes of 4-20 mio meters per year • Suitable f

Figure 11: PIKE printer (SPGPrints) - 4-9 colours, printing width 1,85 m, max. speed 40 m/min, cruising speed 15-
30 m/min, suitable for volumes of 20 mio meters on annual base
16
In a single pass system there is no moving printhead. Printheads are in a line fixed array on a stationary crossing
bar that covers the entire width of the media, enabling the printer to work at high speed. In a multipass or
scanning system the printheads pass over the substrate. Both systems introduce completely different economics
with different capital cost and product cost. The machine design for a multipass is more complex due to transport
and carriage movements while in single pass the construction is simple (conveyor and fixed printing bars).
Moreover, multipass results in more flexibility by the possibility of setting numbers of passes and the investment
cost is lower.
Because in high-speed production is a decisive issue, the single-pass is often preferred. The single pass printers
give the optimum performance when they are running in a continuous mode withy low downtime. However
single-pass printing is less flexible (no redundancy) and less (forgivable’), in case of failing print nozzles the printer
has a real problem.

8
S OR MULTI-PASS (SCANNING SYSTEMS)

Print Head Technologies

Multi-pass scanning vs. Single-pass scanning
print head array static print heads

Substrate Substrate
Figure 12: multi-pass vs single pass printer (Zimmer)
ED Low to medium … up to 10 m/min High … up to 30…60 m/min

GN Digital
Complex dueprinters are available
to transport in a broad
and carriage range of printing width – Simple:
movements from a few cm (narrow
Conveyor and fabrics) to 1,6-3,2
fixed printing barsand
even 5 m wide-format printers. Well-engineered feeding systems guarantee that the textile materials move
TY through
Highthe unit without
by setting skewing,
numbers stretching skipping (stuttering) or otherwise
of passes feeding
Low – no problems will occur
redundancy
because most fabrics stretch when pulled or don’t move consistently when pushed. Also, a printing blanket
NT Low the
(sticky belt) holds to medium High
fabric in place while printing, especially needed when printing on stretch sensible and
elastic fabrics.
A few years ago, width-format double-sides printers (2-in-1) were introduced on thewww.zimmer-kufstein.com
market for waterbased
(Hollanders – NL) and UV-curable inks. These printers can print simultaneously on both sides of the fabric. These
units incorporate an integrated fixation unit. With dedicated profiling and ink amounts, the prints can have the
exact same colour on front and back or a total different one. They open the market for double-side creative
printed apparel and interior textile such as roller blinds and lace curtains.

2.2. Waterbased inkjet inks

Several inkjet inks are available, depending on the medium they are classified as solvent or waterbased inks. For
signage, flags, banners … most inkjet inks are still (eco)solvent-based. However, during the last decade we
notice the switch from solventbased to waterbased inks for different textile and garment markets (read: fashion
– home textiles) with ever changing requirements to its ecocredentials. Waterbased inkjet inks can be divided
in different categories: reactive inks for cellulosic, wool, polyamide and silk, disperse dyes for direct or indirect
(transfer or sublimation printing) of polyester, acid inks for polyamide, wool and silk and pigment inks for almost
all fibres and even blends. In case of waterborne inks, the drying and fixation steps, either for indirect or
sublimation printing or direct textile printing are always mandatory. When we come to the current digital textile
market the largest ink market segment is still the disperse dy-sub market with a share of over 60% for digital
printing of PES substrates. The annual growth of this market is in line with the overall growth in digital textiles.
The major of PES is printed indirectly (transfer).
Developments in inkjet inks are on the level of improved quality, new chromophores and a broader range of
inkjet inks.

Table 1: overview of the developments and related benefits of waterbased inks

Inkjet inks - types Developments Benefits
Reactive inks Higher dyestuff concentration Less ink consumption
Reduced amount of water
Higher chlorine fastness Suitable for work clothing
New reactive groups - chromophores Deeper black possible
Acid inks Chromophores Real black inks
Disperse dyes Chromophores Higher colour buildup
Easier posttreatment – less polluting
Higher dyestuff concentrations Sublimation industrial printers
Lower thermomigration Important for microfibres
Higher fast ness properties incl. light fastness

9
 Important for microfibres and
automotive
Pigment inks Better dispersion stability Less clogging of the print nozzles
Encapsulated inks Improved fastness properties
Vat inks DIGITAL
Prepared TEXTILE
as pigment inks INKS Extremely high fastness properties
3% digital printing market share equals to about 8 kt inks in 2016:

57
60 Inks/Pastes in screen printing:
Market share (%) 50 45
Digital Printing
All-in-one inks: Inks i h all req ired

40 35 Screen Printing components for printing

30 27 Usually no priming of the substrate

20 17 High viscosity and material transfer

10 3 3 4 3 3 2
1
0 Inkjet inks:
Without thickener and further additives
Priming of the substrate required
Ink type Low viscosity ink

7
Source: Derived from WTIN, 2017

ZIMMER AUSTRIA | DIGITAL Figure 13:

PRINTING market share of the different inks in digital and screen printing
SYSTEMS

The selection of inkjet ink is dictated by the textile material and the end-use (read fastness properties).
2. FIBRE MATERIAL / FASTNESS PROPERTIES / INK CLASS SELECTION
Table 2: overview of different waterbased inks in relation to fibres and fastness properties (T. Naschberger – Zimmer)

RATING (1-5) PER QUALITY OF PRINT (FASTNESS)

Color Light Wash Rub Process Cellulose Polyamide, modified

Ink / Dye Class Handl Wool Polyester Acrylic
gammut fastness fastness fastness complexity Fibers silk Polyester

Vat 2 5 5 5 5 5 5 4 0 0 0 0

Reactive 5 3 4 5 5 4 4 4 3 0 0 0

Pigment 5 5 2 3 3 1 3 2 2 2 2 2

Acid 5 4 4 5 5 3 0 3 4 0 0 0

Disperse 4 4 4 5 5 4 0 0 0 4 4 0

Direct Sublimation 5 3 4 4 5 3 0 0 0 3 3 0

Cationic 5 5 3 5 5 4 0 0 0 0 4 4

www.zimmer-austria.com www.zimmer-kufstein.com

a) Pigmented inkjet inks

During the last years, the pigment ink market for inkjet printing of textiles has been emerging rapidly. Pigmented
inks use a pigment (insoluble in the ink carrier) rather than a dye (soluble in the ink carrier) to provide
colouration. They are considered as “universal inks” because they contain resin binders which help the pigment
particles to adhere to the fabric, meaning that the inks can be used across a very wide range of fabric types and
even blends such as cotton/PES. Interesting is also that white pigment inks are available enabling the printing of
dyed/coloured fabrics. Other advantages inherently linked to pigment inks are numerous: ecological process,
less investments, simple and fast process (posttreatment is limited to a simple thermal curing process at 150-
160° during several minutes), flexibility and versatility (one ink for multiple substrates, including blends).

10
 ZIMMER AUSTRIA | DIGITAL PRINTING SYSTEMS

Fastness properties (rub – wash) are in most cases acceptable depending of the end-use and finally they are well
PIGMENT
appreciated PRINTING
for their excellent light fastness making them suitable for home- and decotextile.

for industrial printing on all type of textile constructions

₊ Brilliant colors
₊ Very good light fastness
₋ Poor rub fastness if no post coating is used
₊ Simple process:
PRE-Coating Drying PRINTING Drying POST Coating Drying

4 to 6 colors needed
₊ Works on almost all type of fibers
₊ No water needed
₋ For save operation circulation print heads are needed
₊ Low investment and relatively low printing cost
₊ Perfect for Web-to-Print applications

www.zimmer-austria.com Figure 14: the pros and cons of pigment printing according to Zimmerwww.zimmer-kufstein.com

Thus, the usage ofAUSTRIA

ZIMMER pigment
| DIGITALinks has
PRINTING synergy with the digital inkjet printing approach in general: inkjet as fast,
SYSTEMS

simple and easy processing technology that allows also mass customization. However, except the conventional
pretreatments (PFP) an extra pretreatment or primer (PFDP) is necessary for conventional pigment inks to obtain
PRE-COATING, POST COATING - AND ITS INFLUENCE
acceptable and optimal print results (H. Haas, CHT -DE)

UN-TREATED FABRIC PRE-COATED FABRIC PRE- AND TOP-COATED FABRIC

• ink spreading in width • sharp and brilliant prints • sharp and brilliant print
and depth • less penetration • clear image
• less ink on surface of substrate • clear images • good rub fastness
• duller print • eventually slightly improved • stiffer haptics
• less clarity due to ink migration rub fastness
• good haptics of fabric
Future is digital pre-and post treatment application
using same printer as pigment ink is printed!

www.zimmer-austria.com Figure 15: multiple tasks of primer www.zimmer-kufstein.com

REASON The primer allows

A: PRINT precise control of the ink-substrate interaction as illustrated in figure 16.
QUALITY

Once the ink hits the

textile surface you PFP
observe the following Only washing + bleaching
processes:
PFDP
Primer A
Capillary action
Absorption
Adsorption PFDP
Primer B
Agglomeration
Figure 16: result of primer on print result (CHT)
A primer allows precise control of the ink-substrate interaction.
Legend: PFP - prepare for Printing
Currently, the only option to obtain sharp, dark and brilliant images.
PFDP – Prepare for Digital Printing

11 Helmuth, Central Research and Development - Polymers, CHT Germany

11
 INDUSTRIAL PROCESS: FROM GREY FABRIC TO PFDP

Singing + Desizing

Washing

Bleaching

PFP
Primer

PFDP
Figure 17: schematic flow of the pretreatment for DP-printing with pigment inks (CHT)
9 Helmuth, Central Research and Development - Polymers, CHT Germany

According to H. Haas (CHT – DE), there are 3 reasons for an additional PFDP step:
1. Print quality, translated in sharpness, deeper colours, brilliance
2. Cost: ink
REASON B:savings,
COSTS post treatment
- REDUCED optionalTOTAL
(figure 18)COST OF OWNERSHIP
3. Durability: rub and wash fastness (figure 19)

Ink Savings
Colour measurements of 100% K (Ink, print file + settings were always the same)

41

36
32

32

29

29
28

27
25
23

23
22
L°-VALUE

CO SATIN CO KNIT CO/EL KNIT PES KNIT PA/EL KNIT PES NONWOVEN

PFP PFDP
UNDERSTANDING
Figure
Post-treatment only18: inkTHE
savingsCOMPLETE
optional TEXTILE
on different substrates PROCESS
as a result of an extra PFDP step
For most textile applications you need the following fastness levels (Scale 1-5, 1=bad, 5=perfect):
Dry rub:
Case > 4 & Primer & Inkjet Pigment Printing of a Cotton Single Jersey, singed & desized
study: Washing & Bleaching
Wet rub:
Washing & Bleaching
>3 Easy
Trial 1 for paleTrial
shades,
2 aProcess
challenge for darker prints
conditions:
Wash fastness
FOX (60°C) >3 NaOH(50%): 4%
FELOSAN % 3 0,8 >> check slide Durabilit ”
H2O2 (50%): 4%
VARIO BLEACH 3E % 1 1
Temperature. 80 °C
12
Whiteness [Berger] 78
Helmuth, Central Research and Development - Polymers, CHT Germany
68 Time: 40 min
TEGEWA Drop test [s] 1 >300

TUBIJET Primer by padding process Primer Recipe:

Inkjet Print Results Trial 1 Trial 2 TUBIJET COLORFAST P10 25 g/l

TUBIJET BALANCE P15 65 g/l
Dry Rub 4,5 (4,5) 4,5 (4,5) TUBIJET NWA 5 g/l
Wet Rub 4,0 (3,0) 2,5 (2,5)
Washing (3 x 60°C) 4,0 (1,5) 0,5 (1,0)
L°-Value of 100% K 26 (31) 25 (30)

PFDP PFP
16
Figure 19: case study – effect of primer on fastness properties
Helmuth, Central Research and Development - Polymers, CHT Germany

Waterbased pigment inks for textiles usually contain kinetically stabilized colloidal pigment particles in the range
of about 10 nm to 150 nm. The colloidal dispersion stability is usually a big challenge directly influencing the ink
jetting reliability and thus the market acceptance of the ink. Next to the colloidal dispersion stability, also the
binder chemistry was found as important parameter mainly affecting the wash fastness properties.

12
A new ‘generation’ of pigmented inks is recently introduced on the market by Kornit and Zschimmer & Schwartz
(DE) and Kornit. In contrast to the above described conventional pigment inks, the new development deals with
the encapsulation of the pigments.

Kornit wants to become a game changer in the home textile market with is DP printer Allegro and new
NeoPigments (O. Luedtke). The Kornit’s approach makes the supply chain less complex compared to traditional
screen printing. For traditional roll-to-roll solutions multiple machinery is needed to execute 8 different steps for
production. In case of pigment inkjet inks the number of steps can be drastically reduced to 5 steps as illustrated
in figure 20 enabling customization hometextile.

Printing & Drying in a single step

Screen Color Screen Printing Drying Steaming Washing Drying

Engraving Kitchen Alignment

Pretreatment Printing Steaming Washing Drying

22

Figure 20: Different steps for screen vs digital printing

Nano-sized pigment < 250 nm

DIAMONTEX P PIGMENT INKS
Pigment encapsulation technology
Polymer encapsulation
with cross-linking agent for
Inkjet-printed droplet
each single pigment

Dispersed pigments
- Well-dispersed, nanometer-sized pigments with low size distribution
- High pigment dispersion stability due to polymer encapsulation
Water - Reliable inkjet printing performance
- Applicable for various substrates without pre-treatment
- Mechanical and chemical cross-linking binding mechanism
- Simple lo -temperat re dr ing process

Figure 12: Diamontex pigment inks – Zschimmer & Schwartz (DE)

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The difference between a conventional and new pigment ink is illustrated in figure 21 (E. Sowade – Zschimmer
& Schwartz – DE).

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 DIAMONTEX PIGMENT INKS – MECHANISM ON TEXTILE
Conventional pigment printing Pigment with encapsulation

Binder
Pigments Pigment encapsulation

- Pigments and textile covered with binder Textile - Pigments embedded in the textile
- Adhesion mainly with textile top surface - Strong adhesion to various materials
- Harsher and stiffer textile handle - Soft touch
- Dry-heat post-treatment >160 °C - Dry-heat post-treatment <160 °C
- Good rubbing and wash fastness

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Figure 22: pigment inks – mechanism on textile (E. Sowade – Zschimmer & Schwartz)

The new designed water-based pigment ink series were evaluated in terms of physical ink parameters (such as
viscosity, surface tension and particle size), jetting performance and fastness characteristics (rub and wash
fastness). The encapsulated pigments facilitate strong adhesion to multiple substrates resulting in better fastness
properties such as rub (fastness values on cotton raw textile substrates up to 4.5 best value according to ISO 105-
X12: 5.0) and wash fastnessDIAMONTEX
with an acceptable colour strength after
PIGMENT INK –25FASTNESS
up to times washing at 60°C.

Dry and wet rub fastness on 100% cotton woven fabric

5
4
Good dry (~4) and wet (~3.
fastness
Dry rub

3
2 fastness of our DIAMONTE
1
0 with encapsulated pigments
C M Y K C M Y K
Conventional ink Superior fastness of
DIAMONTEX P DuPont
(market competitor)
encapsulated pigments inks
5 conventional binder inks
4
fastness
Wet rub

3 No primer applied
2
1
0
C M Y K C M Y K [Rub fastness according to ISO 105-X12
Conventional ink grey scale for assessing staining DIN EN
DIAMONTEX P DuPont
(market competitor)

Figure 23: Rub fastness according to ISO 105-X12 (evaluation:

grey scale for assessing staining DIN EN 20105-A03)

b) Vat inks

Zimmer and Dystar recently introduced vat inkjet inks for digital printing on cellulosic fitted for the Colaris printer
(Dimatix printheads). Vat dyes are well-known in the textile industry and used for end-uses where the highest
priorities are necessary (interior textile, work clothing, outdoor textile such as tents and military usage for
camouflage purposes). They are printed analog as pigment inkjet inks followed by a complex posttreatment
consisting of a reducing step in a steamer transforming the dyes in a soluble reduced leuco-form with high affinity
for cellulosic, rinsing, oxidation and multiple washing steps.

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 PROS

• Soft handle
• Excellent fastness properties
ZIMMER AUSTRIA | DIGITAL PRINTING SYSTEMS • Deep shades (incl. black)
• Technical applications

-------------------------------------------

VAT PRINTING CONS

• Limited to cellulosic fibres (coton,

for industrial printing on cellulosic textile constructions
linen…)
• 8-10 colours needed
• High investment costs
Consumes a lot of water
Very good light and wash fastness •
• Circulation print heads needed
Soft handlePrinting with VAT inks
Digital
• Complex process

Deep shades also black

Complicated process:
PRE-Coating Drying PRINTING Drying Foulard Steaming Washing Drying

8 Figure
or 10 colors neededprinting
24: digital (limited color
withgamut)
vat inkjet inks on cellulosic
Good penetration is needed to avoid gray look caused by yarn twists
Needs water
Only for cellulose
c) Waterbased UV-curable inks fibers cotton, linen,
Circulation print heads are a must
UV-inks are often the preference choice for
High investment forcomplete
the digital printing of specialty fibres (aramid, glass or heat sensitive
process
fibres such as PVC and PO). Corona or plasma pretreatments could be advisable to lower surface tension in case
12/01/2018 14 www.zimmer-kufstein.com
of glass and PO (PP, PE) for better wetting and adhesion of UV-curable
www.zimmer-austria.com
inks on the substrate.
The company Allnex (BE) is specialized in edge waterborne UV inkjet inks. Recent developments concur the
expense, odour and regulatory issues associated with mono functional monomers in 100% UV inkjet inks through
the use of waterborne UV-LED curable resins (K. Poelmans, Allnex – BE). With its latest products in the portfolio
the company has put an extreme focus on the low migration potential for the inks. The company elaborates on
the key features of novel binders and what they can bring to the market (topic will be discussed more in detail
in part 2).

(WB) UV TECHNOLOGY IN INKJET INKS

Conventional cure Energy Cure

Content Polymer/pigments/additives/ Acrylated resins/pigments/additives
Solvent* or water Monomers/(PI)
PRO’s • Known chemistry • Very rapid curing
• Adhesion on substrates (solvents) • Improved quality (resolution & color
• Initial investment strength)
• Low VOC (SHE)
• Resistance properties
CON’s • Low speed • Very opaque inks don’t cure easily
• Lower resolution & color • Migration risk Food packaging:
• Resistance properties monomers/PI fragments
• VOC* • Odor
Figure 25: Conventional thermal cure of waterborne inks vs
Waterborne UV technology UV-LED cure (K. Poelmans, Allnex – BE)
Best of both worlds? 2 December 2018 3

Today, for polyester usually a transfer printing process is used, however, due to the high temperature used in
the heat transfer process it is not possible to decorate more sensitive polyester stretch materials by digital
printing. Profactor (AU) developed new pigmented inks (CMYK colours) for industrial printing systems directly
onto polyester fabric with optimum adhesion to polyester and polyurethane and soft haptic. The waterbased

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UV-curable systems, so called Hybrid Inks, have less probability of ink migration tendency through the substrate,
since the inks are mostly composed of polymer particles dispersed in water-solvent mixture.

Figure 26: digital printing directly on shoes (Profactor – AU)

d) Latex inks

Finally, to complete this overview, also new generation latex inks (HP) are in some applications, alternative inks
for textile applications or UV-curable inks. Latex ink dries and cures (at relative low temperature) within the
printer, rather than requiring a separate steaming or drying process. The latex inks produce odorless prints,
which allows for fabric graphic and indoor applications. They have also good rub fastness on PVC-substrates
and can be printed on multiple substrates.
LATEX-inks - HP

Advantages
• No smell
• Inline fixation at low T
• Good results on PVC …

Decorative Sound Absorbing Textiles

Figure 27: latex inkjet from HP for indoor applications

To be followed
Prof. Dr. em. Marc Van Parys
Chairman UNITEX

This article is based on lectures presented during the 5th Int. digital Textile Congress 2018
Lectures can be downloaded from the congress website (www.digitaltextilecongress2018.be) (password needed)

Part 2: Are there still challenges needed in digital technologies? will be published in UNITEX journal nr 1-2019

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