“
‘The youngsters will have the time of their
lives and always remember the fun they |
had in this litle boot sealed down to just 7 =
the right size for them. ae
FBOP 8ft. Outhoard
By WILLIAM D. JACKSON
Naval Architect
‘OR as little as $35 for materials, you can
‘build this midget version of a classy runabout
for your youngsters. The hull sides flare for-
ward and curve aft with a wide safe beam.
Single cockpit design with steering-wheel engine
control and plastic windshield give it a racy ap-
pearance. Powered with a 1%-3% hp outboard
motor the little boat has a top speed of 10 mph.
‘The speed, of course, could be limited by restrict
ing the movement of the engine throttle beyond
a certain point.
Since odd-size, difficult to obtain boat lumber
is not used, all materials can be purchased at
your local lumber yard (see materials list). No
‘steam bending of frame parts is required and
difficult joinery work has been eliminated. Hull
consists of sturdy framework covered with ex-
terior plywood.
‘The first item needed to build Bebop is a 15 ft.
length of building paper or ask your local lumber
dealer for several pieces of the heavy paper that
wall board is wrapped in. Upon this paper make
full-size drawings of the three frames (Fig. 2).
The curves can be drawn with the aid of a
BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
Runabout for Youngsters
Craft Print Project No. 276
STATEMENT OF USES
TYPE: Flat bottomed plywood runabout, 9% hp
‘outboard-motor powered, for exclusive use by
youngsters on protected waters,
LENGTH: 8 ft.
BEAM: 48 in.
WEIGHT: 100 Ib., includes steering wheel, steering
‘gear, Plexiglas windshield, and sect, also bow
Gnd stern fittings, fiber glass bottom.
SEATING CAPACITY: Three children.
COST: Hull $17. Fittings $18, Total $95.
MATERIAL: ¥¢" fir exterior plywood over « sawn
to shape wooden frame.
SPEED: 10 mph maximum,
44x % in. wooden strip or batten bent against
nails driven through the paper at the corners of
the drawings.
Transfer the outlines of the frame pieces to
% in, thick stock with a pointed wheel similar
to a dressmaker’s tracing wheel or make a series
of marks with a scratch awl. Be sure to mark
and cut the ¥%4 in. plywood gussets for the #1“and #2 frames
at the same time.
‘After sawing the
"pieces to shape,
assemble them us-
ing the paper pat-
terns as an align-
ment guide.
Fasten the gussets
with glue (Weld-
wood or Elmer’s
FORE TOP DECKING
Tear nono.
ei
"= TOP OE. Zo af
neT-T0P 0 ine ZF F
and two #8x 1%
fh screws at each
joint.
The bottom is
the next item on
the agenda. Be- SC We
in by markin; TRANSOM <<
genymertingsn Toe A
8 ft. long center-
line down the ex-
act center of a 4x
8 ft. sheet of % in,
plywood. Measure a
and mark the sta-
tion lines (Fig. 3) at right angles to the center-
line, Now, measure and mark the distances from
the centerline outward on each station line and
OUTSIDE
TRANSOM KNEES
TRANSOM,
TRIM
MATERIALS LIST—BEBOP
No, Req, Size and description Use
PLYWOOD REQUIRED
le 34x 4x8 AC grade fir exterior bottom
2h Yar RAKE fr ex, AC sckin and
le 94 x16 x 48" fir ex AC transom
Note: waste from bottom and sides will make all gussets
LUMBER REQUIRED
hemloek, spruce or fr)
Loe ixlox1y sheer plates
Lbe 1x 10x 8" thine plates,
Ibe ixexi framing pieces
pe iedxay framing pieees
Le 1x 8x02" framing pieces
Loe 2x 4x20" stem
ibe 2x 10x20" tranom and
stem nee
Lope 1x8x8 Seat boards
ibe Bei lye" xe ‘outside eel
2hes x1 x2ir sell stringers
2 hes $4" half round 20 ft. tong Sheer molaing|
OTHER PARTS
3M O/T wide fiber olass cloth with resin
2 Ths 20x21 in, Stronghold nails
(the above two. items" avallable at
Herter’ Ie., Waseca, Minnesota)
Sgro | BSXI" th screws
2 BB x1! heres
Bice | Bex Tag" I Screws
6 E10x2 th serevs
6 BARRA th actom
i ja single swivel oye bod steeriog gear
2 Her double ‘swivel eye block Steering gear
i itor 12" steering whee Steering gear
ao te Yet laste covered steering cable Steering Gear
1 224 Pleas or Lucite windshield
i teow handle, aluminum
2 titing handle, aluminum
BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
STEERING WHEEL
BRMCKETS vf
MOLDING STRIP DECK —>» 7a
ENGINE WELL
‘OPENING
TRI-CORNERED.
wn al Ts
INDSHIELO AND BRACKETS BOW HANDLE.
KEEL
SHEER PLATE
Waterproof) and 2 “4
‘ ENGINE-WELL, _—————
$8 x 1 in. fh SNM ae SPLICE
serews or #0 x 1 TF Ti oan era
in, Stronghold
nails and the deck SEAT RISER
beams with glue Giiepune
SPLICE
2 FRAME,
SIDE
PLANKING
EXTENSION
LIFTING
HANDLE, ONE
EACH SIDE
drive a 1% in, finishing nail partially into the
plywood at each mark, Bend a %x % in, batten
8%4 ft. long against these nails, and secure with
additional nails at each end of the batten. Then,
holding a pencil against the batten, draw the
curved line on the plywood. Repeat the proce-
dure to draw the curved line on the other side
of the centerline. Remove the batten and nails,
mark the engine well opening with a compass
and saw the plywood bottom to shape.
‘To lay out the curved chine plates, which must
be made in two sections, place a 4 ft. length of
34 x.9% in, board under the forward curved edge
of the bottom plywood and draw the first curve
as in Fig. 3. Then move the board out a little,
measure the 3 and 2% in. distance for the chine
width and draw the second curved line again
using the plywood bottom piece. Lay out the
#2 chine piece in the same way. Be sure to mark
the end of the splice of the #1 chine piece on
the plywood so that you can continue from that
mark when laying out the #2 chine.
Since two chines are required, repeat the
process using the other side of the plywood bot-
tom and saw the chines to shape. Coat the con-
tacting surfaces of the chines and bottom with
glue and clamp the chines to the plywood bot-
tom. ‘Then tun the bottom over on the floor and
nail the plywood to the chines with #0x1 in.
Stronghold nails placed in a double row and
staggered 2% in. apart. Block up the back of the
chine when nailing. Now, before the glue dries,
turn the bottom over and trim the aft ends of
the chines at an angle as in Fig. 3. Also glue and
nail the 4 in. plywood gusset over the diagonal
BOTTOM PLANKING:
sebsplice of the chines.
While waiting for the glue to
dry, set up the #1 and #2
frames in their respective posi-
tions on the bottom and mark
the frames for cutting the
chine notehes. After cutting
noiches, coat bottom contact-
ing edges of frames with glue
and clamp them to the bottom.
Then turn the entire assembly
over and fasten the chines and
the bottom frame member —
with two #8 x 1% in. fh screws
through each chine and the
bottom with #01 in. Strong-
hold nails spaced 3 in. apart.
Before securing the transom
in position cut a 15° bevel on
the bottom edge of the transom
so it will tilt outward, and
make up the transom knee
(Fig. 5). Fasten the knee to
the inside center of the tran-
som with glue and three #12
x24 in. fh screws counter-
sunk into plywood of transom.
Then fit and fasten this tran-
som assembly to the plywood
bottom with glue and #0x1
fp"
" puywooo
Goosen
Nia
CUT Norenes ror sueeR
PLATES AFTER
LING FRAME”
user setweew//
Frawe Pieces, 07
in. Stronghold nails or #8 x 1
. fh screws. Now make the
outside transom knees (Fig.
5) and fasten to the bottom
and transom on each side of
the motor well (Fig. 1) with
glue and six #8x1% in. fh
serews in each knee. Rip a 3-
comer strip (Fig. 5) and fasten
to the lower outside bottom
edge of the transom and ply-
‘wood bottom of the boat.
‘Your next step is to make a
full-size layout on_ building
SHEER PLATE NOTCHED
Teouch FRAME AND
Puvwood,
paper of the sheer plate (Fig.
3). First draw a centerline
7h ft, long lengthwise of the
paper about ¥ in. from the left
edge. At right angles to this
Tine measure and draw in the
frame and datum lines, and mark off the dis-
tances from centerline to sheer line. Place the
paper on a sheet of plywood and partially drive
in finishing nails at sheer line marks. Then bend
a %x% in. batten against the nails and secure
at each end with additional nails. Hold a pencil
against the batten and draw the curved sheer
line on the paper. For the inside sheer-plate line,
measure and mark 3 in. toward the centerline
and draw in the curved line as you did the sheer
line. Then mark the diagonal splice and cut out
the sheer plate pattern with a scissors.
Now, place the patterns on the 146 x95% in.
board as in Fig. 3, draw around them and saw to
shape. Make two sets and fasten them together
INE PLATE BUTTS AGAINST
Wisioe TRANSOM FRAME
at the splice edges with glue and #01 in, nails.
Be sure to make one right anc one left hand with
the gussets on the underside of each. Place the
sheer plates in position on top of the frames and
mark the frames for notching. After cutting the
notches, replace the sheer plates and temporarily
clamp in place. Make the sheer-plate gusset from
% in, plywood with the grain of the top and
bottom plies running with the 7% in. dimension
as in Fig. 5 so it will bend readily. Temporarily
clamp the gusset in place and make up the stem,
Fig. 5, from 2x4-in. stock, beveling the long
edges as indicated. Determine the angle at which
to cut the top and bottom ends of the stem direct
ly from the hull. Also make up the stem knee;
:
;
.
sane ora cune
sorrow o
2 — 27"
SEER LINE,
a"
a)
ei
oueen pares
#92 gueen pure
Bet GRAGE, WITH C=
Side FACING INSIOE
and temporarily fit it in place against the bottom
and stern.
When you are satisfied that all the parts fit
properly, mark their location with a pencil and
disassemble them including the sheer plates.
‘Then, starting with the sheer plates, reassemble
them to the frames fastening with glue and two
#8x1% in. fh screws to each joint. Fasten the
sheer-plate gusset with glue and #021 in. nails
to the underside of the plates. Before installing
the stem, fasten the stem knee to the stem with
glue and two #12 x 2% in. fh screws as in Fig. 5.
Then install the stem assembly and fasten at the
top with one #10 x2 in. fh screw driven through
the plate gusset, and at the bottom with four #8
BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
- a
=F et cusser aofrom
FEU GES oof
DATUM LINES Mn 0
Prevent "runt Fuaces
ISHEER GURvE.
S08 PUsning exenon£pow00o
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a7
x1 in, fh screws
driven through
the plywood bot-
tom into the stem
knee. Follow by
notehing the fore
deck batten flush
with the top of the
#1 deck beam
and trim the fore
end of the batten
to fit between the
sheer plates at the
bow. Fasten the
batten to the deck
beam with glue
and two #8x1%
in, fh screws and
glue and #0> 1 in.
nails to the sheer-
plate gusset.
Next, cut two
%x1% in. strips
21 in, long for the
motor-well string-
ers (Fig. 4). Cut
partial notches in
the transom for
these stringers
and butt the fore
ends against the
#2 deck beam.
Fasten with glue
and one #8x1%
in, fh screw at
transom and two
#8x1% in. fh
Screws to #2 deck
beam. Make up
the seat risers and
notch them into
the #1 and #2
frame sides as in
Fig. 4. Fasten with
Frou peann ete (Cy one #8x1%4 in.
wee m7] Iye| fh sorew at each
joint. The exact
height of the seat
support (Fig. 5)
can best be de-
termined by placing a board across the seat
risers and measuring the distance from bottom
of boat to underside of board. Lay out the % in.
plywood piece of the seat support, cut to shape
and then glue and nail the % x 1% in. pieces on
each side, Fasten the support to the bottom of
the boat at the centerline with glue and six #8
x1 in. fh screws driven up through bottom. Cut
‘the seat boards to size and fit in place. Drill lead
holes for screws but do not fasten in place now
as it will be too difficult to paint the inside of the
hull,
With the framework completed your next step
is to prepare it for side and deck planking. First
fair the outside edges of the sheer and chine48
plates with a block
plane, beveling
the edges flush
with the frame
sides.
For the side
planking, rip a 4
x8 ft. sheet of %
in. plywood
BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
A
lengthwise and,
with the % x %
batten, lay out the
sides as in Fig. 3.
‘When sawing to
shape, cut about 1
in, oversize along
the bottom edge
(MOTOR- WELL
STRINGERS:
to allow for trim-
ming. Coat con-
tacting edges of
framework with
glue and clamp
one side in place
starting at the
how. Fasten with
#0x1 in, Strong-
hold nails spaced
about 1% in. apart
and slightly stag-
gered to prevent
splitting of frame
members. You
‘will find that the
8 ft. length of ply-
wood is lacking
about 2 in. at the
stern. To extend
the length, add
two pieces of %4 in.
plywood glued
and nailed togeth-
er es in Fig. 1.
Install the other
es same way and
plane the edges
flush at the top
and bottom.
Since the deck requires one 4x8 ft. sheet of
% in, plywood and is to be laid in two pieces,
‘saw the 4 ft. width exactly down the center mak-
ing two 24 in. widths. Place one piece on top
of the deck beams lining up the inside edge on
the centerline of the transom, frames and deck
‘batten and clamp in place. Mark along both
sides of the sheer plate and deck beams on the
‘underside of the deck plywood and lay out the
cockpit and motor-well openings as in Fig. 4
Remove the deck plywood and saw to shape.
Then replace the plywood deck on the frame-
work and check to see that it fits well. You can
Save yourself the trouble of laying out the other
piece of decking plywood by fipping this piece
over to the other side of the hull and checking
to see if it fits well. If it does, utilize as a tem-
peers
axle
DF prwooo ousser one Cy seat nisen —>Y™
Galt Sree rae
na fEewet WoO etliant “| sen oueront
oe eee
OUTSIDE KEEL?”
\f stemion 8-8
icusseT
SHEER MOLOING
3" Hale es
SHEER AND CHINE PLATES
x3"
[abet 7
2x 4x7"
SECTION A.
plate for marking the second piece of plywood
decking.
With both halves of the decking cut to shape,
coat all contacting surfaces with glue and fasten
with #0x1 in, Stronghold nails spaced about 2
in, apart. Now, make the windshield brackets
(Fig, 6), and saw the Plexiglas or Lucite wind-
shield to shape. Fit and temporarily fasten the
windshield to the decking, then remove and re-
place after painting the hull. The spray rails
(Fig. 6) are optional. If you do install them,
fasten them permanently in place at this time
with #8x1 in. fh screws driven through sides
from inside the hull.
If a steering wheel is to be installed, make
bevel blocks (Fig. 6) and fasten to the #1
beam. Fit but do not fasten the steering wh‘OUTSIOE OF TRANEON
werm 3 CORNe?
"wide fiber-glass cloth
‘so you ean cover the
entire bottom with
‘one piece. Wrap it
- around the chines al-
Towing the cloth to
"stock 2 neo
"SEAT BOARDS
BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
APPLY FIBERGLASS HERE
ACROSS TRANSOM. COVER
43
STN SHEER PLATE
ou
"PLYWOOD
“extend about 2 in. up
"the sides and around
a2"tane a>
bottom edge at 5
stern. Use strips
the cloth cut from 1
te trimmed at the 3"Avwooo f+
DOUBLE
Neve BLOCK. \
t fsinoue,
1d Swivel eve
suck
AWA
jy SPRAY AALS j [uick OPTIONAL FASTEN
Frow INSIDE Hf #8 SCREW 8 WASHERS
eee ae
E
‘loutsive KEEL TAPERS To Zeno ar REAR
After the 3 coats of fiber-glass resin have hard-
‘ened, install the keel and paint the boat inside
and out with marine undercoater and enamel
(Fig. 6). If desired, pigmented colors may be
added to the fiber-glass liquid for a permanently
sealed-in color on the fiber-glassed bottom.
When dry, replace the windshield, steering
wheel and seat boards. The half-round sheer
moldings, which should be stained mahogany
and varnished before installation, can now be
fastened in place with #8x1% in. fh screws
spaced 8 in. apart. Rig the steering wheel con-
10" —>] 2" nno00~
‘SEAT SUPPORT FIT IN POSITION AFTER.
SERERETORT SEAT RISERS ARE IN PLACE
P see octane
To FIT DECK cuR\aTURE- s*
Make cAROBOARD.
Tempuate- ano eano- [ei
SAW PLEXIGLAS To iT 42%
eorrom
secnon SF Srouno off?
trol as in’ Fig. 6 and install the bow and stern
lifting handles to complete the little runabout.
‘e Craft Print No, 276 in enlarged. size for build
Basop. ig! avilable ass.” SPECIAL QUANTIT
DISCOUNT! “It you cudet_imo oF more craft prints (this
fr any olier pring), yon may deduct 254 trom the regula |
rice of each print. Hence, for two prints, deduct. SO
| Titee prints, adduct 75¢, ete. Order by print oumber, To
avoid posible Toss of coin or currency in the mail we
‘suggest you remit by check or /.oney order (no C.0.D.'s |
getamps) to, Cralt” Print Dept. B88, SCIENCE "Axo
Sincrantes, 450