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Bebop

Boat plan

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johodada
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
134 views7 pages

Bebop

Boat plan

Uploaded by

johodada
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
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“ ‘The youngsters will have the time of their lives and always remember the fun they | had in this litle boot sealed down to just 7 = the right size for them. ae FBOP 8ft. Outhoard By WILLIAM D. JACKSON Naval Architect ‘OR as little as $35 for materials, you can ‘build this midget version of a classy runabout for your youngsters. The hull sides flare for- ward and curve aft with a wide safe beam. Single cockpit design with steering-wheel engine control and plastic windshield give it a racy ap- pearance. Powered with a 1%-3% hp outboard motor the little boat has a top speed of 10 mph. ‘The speed, of course, could be limited by restrict ing the movement of the engine throttle beyond a certain point. Since odd-size, difficult to obtain boat lumber is not used, all materials can be purchased at your local lumber yard (see materials list). No ‘steam bending of frame parts is required and difficult joinery work has been eliminated. Hull consists of sturdy framework covered with ex- terior plywood. ‘The first item needed to build Bebop is a 15 ft. length of building paper or ask your local lumber dealer for several pieces of the heavy paper that wall board is wrapped in. Upon this paper make full-size drawings of the three frames (Fig. 2). The curves can be drawn with the aid of a BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK Runabout for Youngsters Craft Print Project No. 276 STATEMENT OF USES TYPE: Flat bottomed plywood runabout, 9% hp ‘outboard-motor powered, for exclusive use by youngsters on protected waters, LENGTH: 8 ft. BEAM: 48 in. WEIGHT: 100 Ib., includes steering wheel, steering ‘gear, Plexiglas windshield, and sect, also bow Gnd stern fittings, fiber glass bottom. SEATING CAPACITY: Three children. COST: Hull $17. Fittings $18, Total $95. MATERIAL: ¥¢" fir exterior plywood over « sawn to shape wooden frame. SPEED: 10 mph maximum, 44x % in. wooden strip or batten bent against nails driven through the paper at the corners of the drawings. Transfer the outlines of the frame pieces to % in, thick stock with a pointed wheel similar to a dressmaker’s tracing wheel or make a series of marks with a scratch awl. Be sure to mark and cut the ¥%4 in. plywood gussets for the #1 “and #2 frames at the same time. ‘After sawing the "pieces to shape, assemble them us- ing the paper pat- terns as an align- ment guide. Fasten the gussets with glue (Weld- wood or Elmer’s FORE TOP DECKING Tear nono. ei "= TOP OE. Zo af neT-T0P 0 ine ZF F and two #8x 1% fh screws at each joint. The bottom is the next item on the agenda. Be- SC We in by markin; TRANSOM << genymertingsn Toe A 8 ft. long center- line down the ex- act center of a 4x 8 ft. sheet of % in, plywood. Measure a and mark the sta- tion lines (Fig. 3) at right angles to the center- line, Now, measure and mark the distances from the centerline outward on each station line and OUTSIDE TRANSOM KNEES TRANSOM, TRIM MATERIALS LIST—BEBOP No, Req, Size and description Use PLYWOOD REQUIRED le 34x 4x8 AC grade fir exterior bottom 2h Yar RAKE fr ex, AC sckin and le 94 x16 x 48" fir ex AC transom Note: waste from bottom and sides will make all gussets LUMBER REQUIRED hemloek, spruce or fr) Loe ixlox1y sheer plates Lbe 1x 10x 8" thine plates, Ibe ixexi framing pieces pe iedxay framing pieees Le 1x 8x02" framing pieces Loe 2x 4x20" stem ibe 2x 10x20" tranom and stem nee Lope 1x8x8 Seat boards ibe Bei lye" xe ‘outside eel 2hes x1 x2ir sell stringers 2 hes $4" half round 20 ft. tong Sheer molaing| OTHER PARTS 3M O/T wide fiber olass cloth with resin 2 Ths 20x21 in, Stronghold nails (the above two. items" avallable at Herter’ Ie., Waseca, Minnesota) Sgro | BSXI" th screws 2 BB x1! heres Bice | Bex Tag" I Screws 6 E10x2 th serevs 6 BARRA th actom i ja single swivel oye bod steeriog gear 2 Her double ‘swivel eye block Steering gear i itor 12" steering whee Steering gear ao te Yet laste covered steering cable Steering Gear 1 224 Pleas or Lucite windshield i teow handle, aluminum 2 titing handle, aluminum BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK STEERING WHEEL BRMCKETS vf MOLDING STRIP DECK —>» 7a ENGINE WELL ‘OPENING TRI-CORNERED. wn al Ts INDSHIELO AND BRACKETS BOW HANDLE. KEEL SHEER PLATE Waterproof) and 2 “4 ‘ ENGINE-WELL, _————— $8 x 1 in. fh SNM ae SPLICE serews or #0 x 1 TF Ti oan era in, Stronghold nails and the deck SEAT RISER beams with glue Giiepune SPLICE 2 FRAME, SIDE PLANKING EXTENSION LIFTING HANDLE, ONE EACH SIDE drive a 1% in, finishing nail partially into the plywood at each mark, Bend a %x % in, batten 8%4 ft. long against these nails, and secure with additional nails at each end of the batten. Then, holding a pencil against the batten, draw the curved line on the plywood. Repeat the proce- dure to draw the curved line on the other side of the centerline. Remove the batten and nails, mark the engine well opening with a compass and saw the plywood bottom to shape. ‘To lay out the curved chine plates, which must be made in two sections, place a 4 ft. length of 34 x.9% in, board under the forward curved edge of the bottom plywood and draw the first curve as in Fig. 3. Then move the board out a little, measure the 3 and 2% in. distance for the chine width and draw the second curved line again using the plywood bottom piece. Lay out the #2 chine piece in the same way. Be sure to mark the end of the splice of the #1 chine piece on the plywood so that you can continue from that mark when laying out the #2 chine. Since two chines are required, repeat the process using the other side of the plywood bot- tom and saw the chines to shape. Coat the con- tacting surfaces of the chines and bottom with glue and clamp the chines to the plywood bot- tom. ‘Then tun the bottom over on the floor and nail the plywood to the chines with #0x1 in. Stronghold nails placed in a double row and staggered 2% in. apart. Block up the back of the chine when nailing. Now, before the glue dries, turn the bottom over and trim the aft ends of the chines at an angle as in Fig. 3. Also glue and nail the 4 in. plywood gusset over the diagonal BOTTOM PLANKING: seb splice of the chines. While waiting for the glue to dry, set up the #1 and #2 frames in their respective posi- tions on the bottom and mark the frames for cutting the chine notehes. After cutting noiches, coat bottom contact- ing edges of frames with glue and clamp them to the bottom. Then turn the entire assembly over and fasten the chines and the bottom frame member — with two #8 x 1% in. fh screws through each chine and the bottom with #01 in. Strong- hold nails spaced 3 in. apart. Before securing the transom in position cut a 15° bevel on the bottom edge of the transom so it will tilt outward, and make up the transom knee (Fig. 5). Fasten the knee to the inside center of the tran- som with glue and three #12 x24 in. fh screws counter- sunk into plywood of transom. Then fit and fasten this tran- som assembly to the plywood bottom with glue and #0x1 fp" " puywooo Goosen Nia CUT Norenes ror sueeR PLATES AFTER LING FRAME” user setweew// Frawe Pieces, 07 in. Stronghold nails or #8 x 1 . fh screws. Now make the outside transom knees (Fig. 5) and fasten to the bottom and transom on each side of the motor well (Fig. 1) with glue and six #8x1% in. fh serews in each knee. Rip a 3- comer strip (Fig. 5) and fasten to the lower outside bottom edge of the transom and ply- ‘wood bottom of the boat. ‘Your next step is to make a full-size layout on_ building SHEER PLATE NOTCHED Teouch FRAME AND Puvwood, paper of the sheer plate (Fig. 3). First draw a centerline 7h ft, long lengthwise of the paper about ¥ in. from the left edge. At right angles to this Tine measure and draw in the frame and datum lines, and mark off the dis- tances from centerline to sheer line. Place the paper on a sheet of plywood and partially drive in finishing nails at sheer line marks. Then bend a %x% in. batten against the nails and secure at each end with additional nails. Hold a pencil against the batten and draw the curved sheer line on the paper. For the inside sheer-plate line, measure and mark 3 in. toward the centerline and draw in the curved line as you did the sheer line. Then mark the diagonal splice and cut out the sheer plate pattern with a scissors. Now, place the patterns on the 146 x95% in. board as in Fig. 3, draw around them and saw to shape. Make two sets and fasten them together INE PLATE BUTTS AGAINST Wisioe TRANSOM FRAME at the splice edges with glue and #01 in, nails. Be sure to make one right anc one left hand with the gussets on the underside of each. Place the sheer plates in position on top of the frames and mark the frames for notching. After cutting the notches, replace the sheer plates and temporarily clamp in place. Make the sheer-plate gusset from % in, plywood with the grain of the top and bottom plies running with the 7% in. dimension as in Fig. 5 so it will bend readily. Temporarily clamp the gusset in place and make up the stem, Fig. 5, from 2x4-in. stock, beveling the long edges as indicated. Determine the angle at which to cut the top and bottom ends of the stem direct ly from the hull. Also make up the stem knee ; : ; . sane ora cune sorrow o 2 — 27" SEER LINE, a" a) ei oueen pares #92 gueen pure Bet GRAGE, WITH C= Side FACING INSIOE and temporarily fit it in place against the bottom and stern. When you are satisfied that all the parts fit properly, mark their location with a pencil and disassemble them including the sheer plates. ‘Then, starting with the sheer plates, reassemble them to the frames fastening with glue and two #8x1% in. fh screws to each joint. Fasten the sheer-plate gusset with glue and #021 in. nails to the underside of the plates. Before installing the stem, fasten the stem knee to the stem with glue and two #12 x 2% in. fh screws as in Fig. 5. Then install the stem assembly and fasten at the top with one #10 x2 in. fh screw driven through the plate gusset, and at the bottom with four #8 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK - a =F et cusser aofrom FEU GES oof DATUM LINES Mn 0 Prevent "runt Fuaces ISHEER GURvE. S08 PUsning exenon£pow00o —ir seuce, Le our ome TE ice fon one Sie 4 ie re Gut bro 12 sPuice et sucer Pixies2 me Ts swape tae A'Snoce fxobese mee a7 x1 in, fh screws driven through the plywood bot- tom into the stem knee. Follow by notehing the fore deck batten flush with the top of the #1 deck beam and trim the fore end of the batten to fit between the sheer plates at the bow. Fasten the batten to the deck beam with glue and two #8x1% in, fh screws and glue and #0> 1 in. nails to the sheer- plate gusset. Next, cut two %x1% in. strips 21 in, long for the motor-well string- ers (Fig. 4). Cut partial notches in the transom for these stringers and butt the fore ends against the #2 deck beam. Fasten with glue and one #8x1% in, fh screw at transom and two #8x1% in. fh Screws to #2 deck beam. Make up the seat risers and notch them into the #1 and #2 frame sides as in Fig. 4. Fasten with Frou peann ete (Cy one #8x1%4 in. wee m7] Iye| fh sorew at each joint. The exact height of the seat support (Fig. 5) can best be de- termined by placing a board across the seat risers and measuring the distance from bottom of boat to underside of board. Lay out the % in. plywood piece of the seat support, cut to shape and then glue and nail the % x 1% in. pieces on each side, Fasten the support to the bottom of the boat at the centerline with glue and six #8 x1 in. fh screws driven up through bottom. Cut ‘the seat boards to size and fit in place. Drill lead holes for screws but do not fasten in place now as it will be too difficult to paint the inside of the hull, With the framework completed your next step is to prepare it for side and deck planking. First fair the outside edges of the sheer and chine 48 plates with a block plane, beveling the edges flush with the frame sides. For the side planking, rip a 4 x8 ft. sheet of % in. plywood BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK A lengthwise and, with the % x % batten, lay out the sides as in Fig. 3. ‘When sawing to shape, cut about 1 in, oversize along the bottom edge (MOTOR- WELL STRINGERS: to allow for trim- ming. Coat con- tacting edges of framework with glue and clamp one side in place starting at the how. Fasten with #0x1 in, Strong- hold nails spaced about 1% in. apart and slightly stag- gered to prevent splitting of frame members. You ‘will find that the 8 ft. length of ply- wood is lacking about 2 in. at the stern. To extend the length, add two pieces of %4 in. plywood glued and nailed togeth- er es in Fig. 1. Install the other es same way and plane the edges flush at the top and bottom. Since the deck requires one 4x8 ft. sheet of % in, plywood and is to be laid in two pieces, ‘saw the 4 ft. width exactly down the center mak- ing two 24 in. widths. Place one piece on top of the deck beams lining up the inside edge on the centerline of the transom, frames and deck ‘batten and clamp in place. Mark along both sides of the sheer plate and deck beams on the ‘underside of the deck plywood and lay out the cockpit and motor-well openings as in Fig. 4 Remove the deck plywood and saw to shape. Then replace the plywood deck on the frame- work and check to see that it fits well. You can Save yourself the trouble of laying out the other piece of decking plywood by fipping this piece over to the other side of the hull and checking to see if it fits well. If it does, utilize as a tem- peers axle DF prwooo ousser one Cy seat nisen —>Y™ Galt Sree rae na fEewet WoO etliant “| sen oueront oe eee OUTSIDE KEEL?” \f stemion 8-8 icusseT SHEER MOLOING 3" Hale es SHEER AND CHINE PLATES x3" [abet 7 2x 4x7" SECTION A. plate for marking the second piece of plywood decking. With both halves of the decking cut to shape, coat all contacting surfaces with glue and fasten with #0x1 in, Stronghold nails spaced about 2 in, apart. Now, make the windshield brackets (Fig, 6), and saw the Plexiglas or Lucite wind- shield to shape. Fit and temporarily fasten the windshield to the decking, then remove and re- place after painting the hull. The spray rails (Fig. 6) are optional. If you do install them, fasten them permanently in place at this time with #8x1 in. fh screws driven through sides from inside the hull. If a steering wheel is to be installed, make bevel blocks (Fig. 6) and fasten to the #1 beam. Fit but do not fasten the steering wh ‘OUTSIOE OF TRANEON werm 3 CORNe? "wide fiber-glass cloth ‘so you ean cover the entire bottom with ‘one piece. Wrap it - around the chines al- Towing the cloth to "stock 2 neo "SEAT BOARDS BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK APPLY FIBERGLASS HERE ACROSS TRANSOM. COVER 43 STN SHEER PLATE ou "PLYWOOD “extend about 2 in. up "the sides and around a2"tane a> bottom edge at 5 stern. Use strips the cloth cut from 1 te trimmed at the 3"Avwooo f+ DOUBLE Neve BLOCK. \ t fsinoue, 1d Swivel eve suck AWA jy SPRAY AALS j [uick OPTIONAL FASTEN Frow INSIDE Hf #8 SCREW 8 WASHERS eee ae E ‘loutsive KEEL TAPERS To Zeno ar REAR After the 3 coats of fiber-glass resin have hard- ‘ened, install the keel and paint the boat inside and out with marine undercoater and enamel (Fig. 6). If desired, pigmented colors may be added to the fiber-glass liquid for a permanently sealed-in color on the fiber-glassed bottom. When dry, replace the windshield, steering wheel and seat boards. The half-round sheer moldings, which should be stained mahogany and varnished before installation, can now be fastened in place with #8x1% in. fh screws spaced 8 in. apart. Rig the steering wheel con- 10" —>] 2" nno00~ ‘SEAT SUPPORT FIT IN POSITION AFTER. SERERETORT SEAT RISERS ARE IN PLACE P see octane To FIT DECK cuR\aTURE- s* Make cAROBOARD. Tempuate- ano eano- [ei SAW PLEXIGLAS To iT 42% eorrom secnon SF Srouno off? trol as in’ Fig. 6 and install the bow and stern lifting handles to complete the little runabout. ‘e Craft Print No, 276 in enlarged. size for build Basop. ig! avilable ass.” SPECIAL QUANTIT DISCOUNT! “It you cudet_imo oF more craft prints (this fr any olier pring), yon may deduct 254 trom the regula | rice of each print. Hence, for two prints, deduct. SO | Titee prints, adduct 75¢, ete. Order by print oumber, To avoid posible Toss of coin or currency in the mail we ‘suggest you remit by check or /.oney order (no C.0.D.'s | getamps) to, Cralt” Print Dept. B88, SCIENCE "Axo Sincrantes, 450

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