Care and Selection

of Indoor Plants

Growing plants in the home or office is a great way Available Light

to bring the outdoors inside and enjoy plants year-round. You can identify most of your interior areas as high,
Houseplants are popular, and a wide range of plants medium, or low light. Take a tour through your home or
that can accommodate almost any indoor location are office and observe the areas where you want to grow and
available at garden centers. Research has shown that place plants. Use the following guidelines to determine the
having plants in the home or office can be good for your light level of various areas:
health and well-being.
• Areas nearest windows and glass doors generally
Growing indoor plants is not difficult if proper
offer the best light for plant growth. The size of the
environmental factors for each plant are met. The most
windows will also affect the amount of available
important factors affecting plant growth and success are
light. Obviously, the larger the glass area, the more
light, temperature, water, humidity, soil, and fertilization.
available light.

Light • Exposure (north, south, east, or west) also affects avail-

Light is the single most important factor in successful able light. In southern states, east and west exposures
indoor gardening. Plants use light as energy to make their offer bright light and full sun for several hours each
food. The green chlorophyll in plant leaves uses light to day in all seasons of the year. In general, the south of
combine carbon dioxide, water, and nutrients to make food a building offers high light, while the north windows
for growth. This process is called photosynthesis. offer low light.
Even though all indoor plants require light, not all re-
• The closer the plants are to the glass, the more avail-
quire the same amount of light. Generally, the more light
able the light. During winter months, do not let plants
a plant gets, the more food it can make. When a plant gets
touch the glass when outdoor temperatures are freez-
less light than it needs, the food reserves are used up and
ing. As you move more to the side or back from the
the plant’s health declines. Your success with indoor plants
glass, light levels will be lowered significantly. The
will depend largely on choosing proper plants that will
intensity of the light can drop from 1,000 to 100 foot-
grow in the amount of light you have in your home.
candles in the distance of only a few feet. It is difficult
to grow plants in dimly lit areas more than 8 or 10
Light Intensity
feet from windows. Such areas are corners, bookcases,
The amount of light a plant receives is called light
tables, or rooms with no windows at all. If you have
intensity. The light intensities of indoor areas are gener-
plants in such low-light areas, you should occasionally
ally described as being high, medium, or low. Officially,
move them to better light for 4 to 8 weeks. After this
intensity is measured in foot-candles. High represents light
short period in proper light, the plants will regain their
conditions that are 1,000 or more foot-candles in intensity;
strength and you can move or rotate them back to low-
medium represents 500 to 1,000 foot-candles; and low
light areas for decorative accents.
represents 50 to 500 foot-candles. Usually, an intensity of
less than 50 foot-candles will not sustain plant life for very • Roof overhangs, porches, and awnings over windows
long. Specific plants for high, medium, and low lights can and door areas will reduce the amount of light avail-
be found on pages 2 and 3. It is best to choose plants that able to plants. Drapes, sheers, and blinds also drasti-
match the light level in your home or workplace. cally reduce light. Remember to note such conditions
when evaluating the light of your interior area.
Artificial Light Dracaena fragrans ‘Massangeana’ Corn Plant
If you have only low light levels, don’t give up without Dracaena surculosa Gold-Dust Dracaena

first considering the use of artificial or supplemental light- Dracaena reflexa var. augustifolia Red-Margined Dracaena
Dracaena sanderiana Ribbon Plant
ing. Granted, you will not have as much versatility as with
Dypsis lutescens Areca Palm
bright windows, but you can still enjoy a nice collection of
Fatsia japonica Japanese Fatsia
indoor plants.
Ficus benjamina Weeping Fig
Artificial light can be used to supplement or replace
Ficus elastica ‘Decora’ India Rubber Plant
natural light. Cool-white fluorescent lights alone provide Ficus lyrata Fiddle-Leaf Fig
effective supplemental lighting. LED grow lights are color- Ficus microcarpa Indian Laurel
optimized for plant growth. They have low heat output Gynura aurantiaca Velvet Plant
and a very long lifespan. Hedera helix English Ivy
Plants grown under supplemental or replacement Howea forsteriana Kentia Palm
lighting need about 12 to 14 hours of this light a day for Kalanchoe blossfeldiana Kalanchoe
good growth. For consistency and convenience, you could Livistona chinensis Chinese Fan Palm
install a 24-hour clock timer to turn the lamps on and off. Monstera deliciosa Cut-Leaf Philodendron

A timer will ensure that the lights turn on and off at the Nephrolepis exatata ‘Bostoniensis’ Boston Fern
Pandanus tectorius Variegated Screw Pine
proper time each day.
Peperomia caperata Emerald Ripple Peperomia
For best results, most plants grown under artificial light
Peperomia magnoliifolia Spoonleaf Peperomia
must be grown within 1 to 3 feet from the light source (see
Philodendron bipinnatifidum Tree Philodendron
illustration below). This distance will depend on the light
Philodendron cordatum Heart-Leaf Philodendron
requirements for the plant(s) being grown. Pilea cadierei Aluminum Plant
Pilea involucrata Friendship Plant
Low Light (25 to 75 foot-candles) Plectranthus parviflorus Swedish Ivy
Scientific name Common name Plerandra elegantissima False Aralia
Aglaonema commutatum Silver Evergreen Polyscias scutellaria ‘Balfouriana’ Balfour Aralia
Aglaonema nitidum Chinese Evergreen Schefflera actinophylla Schefflera
Aglaonema pictum Indonesian Evergreen Schefflera arboricola Dwarf Schefflera
Aspidistra elatior Cast-Iron Plant Spathiphyllum x clevelandii Cleveland Peace Lily
Chamaedorea elegans Parlor Palm Syngonium podophyllum Syngonium, Nephthytis
Chamaedorea seifrizii Bamboo Palm Tradescantia fluminensis Inch Plant
Epipremnum pinnatum Golden Pothos Tradescantra zebrine Wandering Jew
Epipremnum pinnatum ‘Marble Queen’ Marble Queen Pothos
Pisonia brunoniana Pisonia
Sansevieria trifasciata Snake Plant
Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Laurentii’ Goldband Sansevieria
Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Hahnii’ Birdsnest Sansevieria

Medium Light (75 to 150 foot-candles)

Scientific name Common name
Aechmea fasciata Silver Vase
vertical distance (inches)

Aglaonema commutatum ‘White Rajah’ White Rajah Aglaonema

Asparagus densiflorus ‘Myers’ Foxtail Fern
Asparagus densiflorus ‘Sprengeri’ Sprengeri Asparagus
Asparagus setaceus Plumosa Fern
Aucuba japonica ‘Variegata’ Gold-Dust Plant
Calathea makoyana Peacock Plant
Caryota mitis Fishtail Palm
Chamaedorea seifrizii Bamboo Palm
Chlorophytum comosum ‘Variegatum’ Spider Plant
Cissus rhombifolia Grape Ivy
Dieffenbachia amoena Giant Dumbcane
Dieffenbachia amoena ‘Exotica’ Exotica Dumbcane horizontal distance (inches)

Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’ Stiped Dracaena This graph shows the light output, in foot-candles (fc), from two standard 40-watt
flourescent lamps measured at distances from 6 to 36 inches.

2
High Light (150 to 1,000 foot-candles) Hatiora gaertneri Easter Cactus
Scientific name Common name Hoya carnosa Wax Plant
Aloe vera Aloe Vera Iresine lindenii Blood Leaf
Alternanthera ficoidea Joseph’s Coat Monstera deliciosa Split-Leaf Philodendron
Aphelandra squarrosa Zebra Plant Solenostemon scutellarioides Coleus
Araucaria columnaris Norfolk Island Pine Podocarpus gracilior Weeping Podocarpus
Beaucarnea recurvata Ponytail Palm Saintpaulia ionantha African Violet
Cissus antarctica Kangaroo Vine Schlumberger truncata Thanksgiving Cactus
Codiaeum variegatum Croton Sedum morganianum Burro’s Tail
Cordyline fruticosa Ti Plant Tradescantia spathacea Moses-in-the-Cradle
Crassula ovata Jade Plant X Fatshedera lizei Tree Ivy
Cylindropuntia leptocaulis Christmas Cactus
Cylindropuntia ramosissima Pencil Cactus *Some of these plants could be invasive if planted outdoors in certain areas
of the state. If planted outside, be mindful of how quickly the plant spreads.

low light plants medium light plants high light plants

Parlor Palm
(Chamaedorea
elegans)

Weeping Fig Sago Cycas Palm

(Ficus benjamina) (Cycas revoluta)

Green Nephthytis
(Syngonium
pedophyllum)

Rubber Plant
(Ficus elastica) Jade Plant
(Crassula ovata)

Split-Leaf Philodendron
(Philodendron
bipinnatifidum)

Spider Plant
(Chlorophytum comosum)

Heart-Leaf
Philodendron Corn Plant
(Philodendron (Dracaena fragrans Norfolk Island Pine
cordatum) massangeana) (Araucaria heterophylla)

3
Temperature Humidity in most homes and offices is lower than
Temperature is another important factor that can affect most plants need (except cacti). The humidity in buildings
your success in growing indoor plants. Although plants that have central heating and cooling systems is typically
will tolerate temperatures slightly lower and/or higher 10 to 30 percent—quite a drastic reduction when compared
than ideal, the plant’s growth will be affected. The ideal to the 70 to 90 percent humidity levels found in the native
temperature range for most indoor plants is a daytime climates of most tropical plants. Also, air blowing from
temperature of 65ºF to 75ºF (18ºC to 24ºC ) and a nighttime heating and cooling vents can be damaging. Avoid placing
temperature about 10 degrees cooler. The drop in night plants in direct drafts.
temperatures is important because it enables plants to You can increase humidity by placing plants on peb-
build new tissues. Plants that are grown under consistently bles in a shallow tray that holds a small amount of water.
high temperatures tend to become spindly and less resis- Excess water that drains out of the container after you
tant to disease and insect attack. water the plants will collect in this tray and provide con-
tinuous humidity as it evaporates. However, you should
Water never let the bottom of a plant container stand in water
If you have grown plants of any kind, you know that since this will cause a waterlogged soil and may result in
providing the proper amount of water for these plants is root damage and eventual plant death.
often tricky, confusing, and difficult. We know it is a sim- Grouping several plants together will also help in-
ple fact that every physiological process of plant growth crease humidity for these plants. Misting the plant foliage
requires water. The makeup of plants is often 80 to 90 per- with water is helpful since the water evaporates rapidly.
cent water, but overwatering still causes the death of many However, misting may aggravate certain foliar diseases.
houseplants. In fact, overwatering is the number-one cause Do not mist if you notice abnormal foliage on your plant.
of death of houseplants. You can develop proper water- Another way to increase humidity is to purchase an inex-
ing techniques by considering several common questions pensive humidifier and place it near plants.
about watering: In addition to these environmental factors that deter-
mine a plant’s need for water, a few cultural conditions
1. How much water does a plant need? can affect water practices. The potting soil you use for your
It is natural that some plants require more water than plants is important. There are many different types of soils
others because of varying plant structures and growth hab- and growing mixtures you can use for indoor plants. The
its. For example, cacti require much less water than ferns. water-holding capacities of these mixtures will vary as the
Plants in environmental conditions that cause rapid composition varies. Some soil mixes hold more water and
growth will need and use more water than plants in a hold it longer than other mixes. (For more information on
limited environment. Usually, the brighter the light and types of soils and their characteristics, see the Soil section
warmer the temperature, the more water a plant will need. on page 5).
A plant in good light and proper temperature will require Another factor that might affect watering practices is
more water than the same plant in lower light and a cooler the type and size of container that a plant is growing in.
environment. Clay pots are porous and require more water than non-
Humidity (moisture in the air) can also affect a plant’s porous glazed or plastic pots. Plants in large containers of
need for water. Through a process called transpiration, any material would generally require less frequent water-
plants release water into the atmosphere through tiny ing than the same size plant in a smaller pot of similar ma-
openings in the leaves. High humidity helps slow water terial. Very simply, there is less available water in the soil
loss through transpiration. If your area is low in humidity, of a small container as compared to a large container with
more water will be lost through transpiration, and your more soil.
plant’s root system will need more water.

Put plants on pebbles in a shallow Never let the bottom of the Group several plants together to Mist plants to increase humidity.
tray to increase humidity. container sit in water. increase humidity.

4
 In summary, the amount of water that a plant needs and 3. How should plants be watered?
uses depends on the species and structure of the plant; the The most convenient and efficient method of water-
environmental conditions of light, temperature, and humid- ing is to pour water on the soil surface and allow water
ity; the cultural conditions of soil; and the type of container. to move evenly through the soil structure. Usually this
method is better than subirrigation, a process of watering
2. When should plants be watered? plants by placing the pot in a shallow amount of water in
A rigid watering schedule usually will not be success- a tray or coaster and allowing the plants to suck the water
ful because of many variable factors. A rigid schedule will up from the bottom.
cause some plants to be overwatered while others may dry Tap water is usually suitable for houseplants. How-
out from a lack of water. Be prepared to water your plants ever, you should never use cold water. Cold water will
on an individual basis, as they need it. cause a sudden and extreme fluctuation in soil tempera-
So when do they need it? You can determine the time ture, which may cause root injuries. For best results, use
to water a plant in several ways. Although there is no fool- lukewarm water that is near room temperature. When
proof method, the most accurate method is to inspect the watering from the top, be careful not to wash the soil away
individual plant’s foliage for signs of wilting, and then feel from the base of the plant stems. Be sure to wet the entire
the soil for moisture. By carefully observing soil and foli- depth of soil thoroughly. Excess water will drain out of the
age, you can usually tell if the plant needs water. container through the drain opening, which should always
Some plants prefer to have their soil and root systems be provided. The water that drains out of the container will
slightly dry before the next watering. You should feel the provide additional humidity if you collect this water in a
soil of these plants at several depths and water when the coaster or tray. Don’t let the bottom of the container re-
soil begins to feel dry. Remember, too, that large contain- main in water. Raise the container by placing gravel in the
ers hold more soil and water. The soil might be adequately coaster or tray.
moist near the middle or lower root zone, even if the soil If the soil dries too much before watering, you may
near the top is dry. find it difficult to wet the soil thoroughly. Often the dry-
Other plants require more even moisture and will not ing soil will shrink away from the sides of the container,
tolerate drying soil. You should water the soil and root and much of the water you apply will quickly run through
system of these plants when the top layer of soil begins to the cracks and out of the container; the soil never gets
feel dry. wet. Should this situation occur, the easiest way to wet
the soil is to submerge the container in water. A plastic
How to determine if plants need water: pail or garbage can will work well for this soaking. Some
• Touch: The most accurate way to assess if a plant people even submerge their plant containers in the sink or
needs water is to touch the soil up to your finger’s bathtub. Allow the water level to come up to the top of the
middle joint. If soil particles cling to your fingertip, container but not over the rim and into the soil. Let it soak
there is no need to add water. until all the soil air has bubbled to the top of the water—a
good indication that the soil is saturated. This usually takes
• Estimate weight: Dry soils are lighter than moist
about 10 minutes. When the soil is thoroughly saturated,
soil mixtures.
remove the container and allow the excess water to drain.
• Judge color: Dry soils are lighter than moist soil
mixtures. Soil
When you are ready to transplant a new plant or repot
• Soil moisture indicator: A gauge that tells how an older one, you will need some potting soil. The best pot-
moist/dry a soil is; read and understand the direc- ting soil for growing indoor plants will usually be a recipe
tions before using. mixture that gives ideal conditions for moisture, drainage,
You can predict your plant’s water needs by using any and nutrient-holding capacity, porosity, and plant stability.
of these methods. Over a period of months, you may notice Most potting soils used by commercial nurseries are cus-
that some plants need water every day, while others need tom blends or recipe mixes.
it only once every 5 or 6 days. Knowing these patterns Generally, native soils that are dug up outside are not
will be helpful in your watering practices, but you should ideal for houseplants. The composition of these native soils
avoid a rigid schedule. Inspect plants daily for water varies drastically, but by making proper additions to them,
needs. If you are a day late with watering, you may dam- you can create a much better growing medium for your
age or even lose a favorite plant. interior plants.

5
 The four basic ingredients of soil mixes are organic other soil particles. A good soil will provide ample pore
particles, inorganic particles, air, and water dissolved with space and good drainage yet also hold some moisture.
nutrients.
Packaged Potting Mixes
Organic Particles You can buy many kinds of packaged potting soils
Organic particles are residues of decaying plant and at local nurseries and garden centers. These materials are
animal tissues. The amount of organic material in native convenient and often have been sterilized to kill harmful
soils is very low, usually less than 5 percent. In preparing disease organisms and weed seed. The consistency of these
a soil for indoor plants, adding organic materials provides materials may vary among trade labels. For example, some
many benefits. Organic matter is the center of activity for packaged soils are already premixed with organic matter,
soil microorganisms. These organisms are necessary for perlite, or other ingredients and are ready for immediate
many activities in the soil. Organic materials also help to use. Other packaged growing mixtures are primarily sterile
loosen the soil structure and allow it to breathe better. This soils, which may need other additions to make a better soil
is a process called aeration. Also, the moisture-holding mix for indoor plants.
ability of a soil is generally increased when you add or-
ganic materials. Mixtures You Can Create
Several organic materials are usually added to soil Following are recipes for two basic growing mix-
mixtures for houseplants. These include sphagnum peat, tures. They work quite well for most indoor gardeners.
bark, rotted sawdust, leaf mold, and manures. However, you may discover that you need a slight modi-
fication for your particular plant and environment and
Inorganic Particles cultural techniques.
The inorganic particles that occur in native soils are
classified as sand, silt, or clay. This classification is based Blending the mix
on particle size. Sands are the largest, silts in between, and Mixing a potting soil is much more convenient if you
clays the smallest. The large particle size of sand affords use a clean, plastic garbage can for mixing. You can put
good aeration and fast drainage, but usually sands will the ingredients in the container and then mix by stirring,
dry more quickly. Clay particles are good nutrient holders shaking, swirling, or rolling. These cans also make excel-
since they attract and hold nutrients of the soil solution lent storage containers for any mixture left over after pot-
much like a magnet. However, clays tend to compact and ting. You may want to buy several cans to store the various
be tight, which is bad for root growth. Fortunately, most separate ingredients. You can use one container for organic
native soils are mixtures of sands, silts, and clays—often material, one for perlite, one for sand, one for soil, and an-
called loams. other for the completed mixture.
Several inorganic (man-made) particles are available
for use. The most popular is perlite. Actually, perlite is a Sterilizing the mix
naturally occurring volcanic rock, but because it is crushed Potting mixes should be sterilized to kill disease organ-
and then heat-treated, it is inorganic. The heat causes it to isms and weed seed. You can do this in your home by heat-
expand or puff up into tiny, porous, lightweight particles. treating the mix in the oven or microwave. Be prepared for
It is an excellent ingredient for soil mixes because it loosens this process to release unpleasant odors in your kitchen.
soils to provide better aeration and drainage. However,
perlite does not hold much water or nutrients. Oven method
Another inorganic particle that is used often in grow- 1. Preheat the oven to 200°F.
ing media is vermiculite. This is a naturally occurring mica 2. Fill a disposable roasting pan with up to 3 inches of soil.
that is heat-treated. It is available in various sizes and can 3. Moisten the soil with water, making sure not to wet
hold water and nutrients. the soil excessively.
4. Cover the top of the pan tightly with aluminum foil.
Air and Water 5. Insert an oven-safe food thermometer through the foil
The spaces between particles allow air to be part of into the soil.
the potting soil. Water can fill these air spaces and saturate 6. Adjust the thermometer so you can easily check it
the soil. The water should gradually drain and leave some periodically.
moisture in the soil structure. This remaining water is ab- 7. Bake the soil until the soil temperature reaches 180°F;
sorbed by the organic matter or left as a surface film on the continue to bake for 30 minutes, adjusting the oven
temperature as needed to keep it at 180°F.
6
8. Do not allow the soil temperature to go below 180°F or Containers
above 200°F during the process. When it comes to containers for indoor plants, you
9. Allow to cool completely before using—the steriliza- have many choices in styles and materials. Most containers
tion process continues as it cools. are suitable for growing interior plants if there is a drain-
age hole in the bottom of the container. This opening will
Microwave method provide proper drainage for excess water, which prevents
1. Fill a disposable, microwave-safe plastic container with waterlogged soils that can cause root rot.
2 pounds of moist soil. You can use a heavy plastic bag When selecting a container, first consider the size of
with the top left open. the plant and where it will be placed in the home. Make
2. Microwave the soil on full power for 1½ minutes. For sure you choose a container that fits the size of the plant—
microwaves of less than 1000 watts, microwave for 2½ not too large, not too small. A general rule for choosing
minutes. a proper container is that the diameter of the container
3. Insert a candy or meat thermometer into the center of should be about one-third the height of the plant from the
the soil. If it doesn’t read between 180°F and 200°F, top of the foliage.
continue to heat at 1-minute intervals until the re- The most widely used indoor plant containers are
quired temperature range is reached. clay and plastic. Clay pots are porous and allow mois-
4. Remove from the microwave and cover the container ture to evaporate through the sides of the container. This
loosely with a lid or plastic wrap. If using a bag, seal causes the soil to dry out faster, so more frequent wa-
the bag and leave a small space open for ventilation. tering is required. However, homeowners who tend to
5. Cool completely before using. overwater will be more successful with clay pots. Plastic,
6. If not using immediately, keep the container or bag glass, metal, wood, or glazed pots retain their moisture
sealed to avoid contamination. longer than clay pots. With these pots, it is important to
7. Clean the microwave thoroughly after use to help re- ensure good drainage and avoid overwatering.
move unpleasant odors and any particles. The most important factor when considering a con-
tainer is drainage. A container with one or more drain
Basic Mixtures holes lets water drain out of the container, allowing for
Standard Mix leaching of excess salts and reentry of air into the soil.
1 measure of packaged potting soil or 1 measure of Plants in containers without drain holes are easily injured
sterilized garden loam or killed by overwatering.
Many decorative containers do not have drainage
1 measure of coarse organic material
holes. This type of pot is not designed for plant growth,
1 measure of perlite but rather to display a plant in an aesthetically pleasing
way. These containers also retain drainage water, protect-
1 measure of coarse, clean sand
ing furniture surfaces. A live plant has a longer display
Mix thoroughly and sterilize. After sterilization, add than a vase of fresh flowers, but it does not have to become
dolomitic lime at a rate of 1 ounce (28 grams) per gallon of a permanent fixture within a room. To lengthen the display
soil mixture. of an indoor plant kept in a decorative container, you can
place a layer of gravel in the bottom of it, then set your
Cacti and Succulent Mix plant—still in its original clay or plastic pot—inside. You
1 measure of packaged potting soil or 1 measure of can fill the space between the sides of the two containers
sterilized garden loam with gravel, peat moss, or perlite. This way, you can enjoy
½ measure of coarse organic material a decorative container and still provide proper drainage
½ measure of perlite for the plant.
1 measure of coarse, clean sand
Fertilizer
Mix thoroughly and sterilize. After sterilization, add Plants need 16 essential elements to make their food
dolomitic lime at a rate of 1 ounce (28 grams) per gallon of for growth. The most important elements are nitrogen,
soil mixture. phosphorus, potassium (potash), calcium, magnesium,
sulfur, and iron. The minor elements are carbon, hydrogen,
oxygen, manganese, copper, boron, zinc, molybdenum,
and chlorine.

7
 Some of these elements are required in large quan- Recommendations for using these materials are described
tities, while others are needed in small amounts. The in detail on the product label. Always follow directions.
amounts needed depend primarily on the plant’s growth
rate. Plants that grow rapidly demand more nutrients Fast-Release Fertilizers
than plants that grow slowly. Remember that most indoor Fast-release fertilizers are useful because their nu-
areas do not provide the ideal growing conditions of the trients are immediately available to plants and create an
greenhouse, nursery, or native habitats of plants, so the immediate response. Fast-release fertilizers are typically
growth rates of indoor plants are reduced. As a result, available as liquid, soluble crystals, or granular fertilizers.
indoor plants will not need as much fertilizer as plants These materials disperse all of their nutrients at once. Fast-
growing rapidly under ideal greenhouse conditions. release fertilizers, however, are subject to rapid depletion
However, indoor plants with good environmental from the soil because of leaching. If fast-release fertilizers
conditions will have moderate growth. Growing mixtures are applied too heavily, the plant can be damaged, usually
often lack major nutrients, so these indoor plants will not by burning.
grow well unless you fertilize them. Keep in mind that
it is not always necessary to continually fertilize indoor Applying Fertilizers
plants. Many people want to keep their indoor plants A plant that is growing rapidly needs nutrients more
at a particular size. Fertilizer encourages leaves, stems, often than a plant that is growing slowly or resting. For
and roots to grow if all conditions are ideal, but having a plants in an active growing condition, apply a household
larger, lush plant is not always an objective. fertilizer once every 2 or 3 months. During the winter
months or under other conditions of low light, fertilize less
Fertilizer Materials frequently, if at all.
Fertilizer materials for indoor plants are packaged and If you move indoor plants to the porch, patio, or bal-
sold in small, convenient sizes. There are many forms and cony during the summer, these plants will begin to grow
strengths of fertilizer materials at garden centers. Some are rapidly. Under these conditions, the plants may need fer-
liquids, while others are granules or powders. All forms tilizers once every 2 to 3 weeks. These suggestions are for
are suitable if used properly. water-soluble fertilizers.
Manufacturers are required to indicate the fertilizer If you choose to use a granular slow-release fertilizer
analysis on the container label. This analysis is given in material, the frequency of application will depend primar-
a series of numbers such as 5-1-1, 14-14-14, 18-9-9, or 6-8- ily on the time-life of that material.
8. The first number of the series indicates the amount of Before fertilizing, be sure the soil is moist. Always fol-
nitrogen; the second number, the amount of phosphorus; low label directions.
and the third, the amount of potassium (potash). The
amounts of calcium, magnesium, iron, and other elements Overfertilization
are also listed by name and source in the finer print on the Too much fertilizer will cause chemical salts in the
label. Always read the label carefully and know what you soil to reach an extremely high concentration. This is very
are buying. dangerous because the excess salts can damage plant roots.
The plants will suffer because a damaged root system is
Slow-Release Fertilizers not healthy and efficient. Note these typical signs of over-
Some manufacturers offer specially prepared fertilizer fertilization and excess salts:
materials that are called “slow-release formulas.” Most • a white or yellowish, crusty appearance of salt on the
are granules that are designed to release nutrients gradu- surface of the soil
ally and evenly over a long time. How long a slow-release
fertilizer is active will depend on the kind it is, indoor • damaged roots that cause wilting leaves (even when
temperature, and watering practices. The slow-release ma- the soil is wet)
terials are available in several analyses. They are also avail-
• yellowing foliage that soon drops off the plant
able in several time-life formulations, such as 3-month,
6-month, or 9-month time-life. They offer a consistent and If you suspect overfertilization, decrease your applica-
uniform availability of nutrients to the plant. Fewer appli- tions of fertilizer, and wash the salts out of the soil by thor-
cations are needed with slow-release fertilizers, but nutri- oughly watering the plant several times. Be sure to allow
ents may not be available when the plant needs them. the excess water to drain away as fast as possible.

8
Repotting has become successfully reestablished. This usually takes
Eventually in a plant’s life, the root system will fill all about 2 to 4 weeks; after this time, you can resume regular
the available soil and space in the container and become fertilizer practices.
root- or pot-bound. When this happens, the plant’s growth
will be restricted unless you provide more room for root Preventing Transplant Shock
growth by repotting the plant into a larger container. When you repot or transplant a potted plant, it is al-
A simple examination of the root system is the best most impossible to avoid injuring some of the roots. Be
way to determine whether or not your plant is root-bound very careful during repotting to minimize injury to the root
and ready for repotting. You can easily remove the soil and system. Some plants can stand more root damage than oth-
root mass of small plants from the container by following ers before they show extreme symptoms of physiological
the steps at the bottom of this page. shock typical of water stress. This may result in varying
degrees of wilting, leaf burn, yellowing, or splotched foli-
How to Repot age. These are distress signals that indicate a damaged
Move plants that need repotting to a container slightly root system that is unable to function and supply adequate
larger than the existing container. The new container water to the plant.
should generally be only 1 or 2 inches larger in top diam- A clean, sterile potting soil will help prevent and re-
eter. Containers that are too large for small plants can have duce the severity of shock caused by transplanting. Also,
too much soil and, therefore, too much water for proper be sure the plant is in good health before repotting it. In-
root growth. spect and examine the plant for insects and disease; then
Always use a clean container for repotting. Add a control these problems before transplanting or repotting
layer of soil mix and firm it with your fingers. This layer of the plant. Do not repot or transplant a starving plant. Most
soil should be enough to bring the top of the root mass to houseplants will be in better condition to withstand trans-
within 1 inch of the container top. By allowing this 1-inch plant shock if fertilized 10 to 14 days before repotting. Just
buffer near the top, you can water the plant more easily. before repotting, check the soil moisture content of your
Fill around the root mass with soil mix, and firm it with potted plant. The soil should be thoroughly moist. If you
your thumbs. Then water thoroughly and allow the potting find that the soil is dry, water it thoroughly with lukewarm
soil to drain well. water at least an hour before repotting.
Place the newly potted plant in indirect light until it
recovers from the shock of repotting, usually about 7 to Grooming
10 days. This shock is caused by a disrupted root system, Growing plants indoors can present some unusual
which affects a plant’s ability to absorb water. Be very care- problems that can affect the success of your plants. The
ful not to overwater newly repotted plants. Also, don’t most common problem is dust accumulation on their
fertilize the newly repotted plant until the root system leaves. A layer of dust on a plant’s foliage can interfere

Removing the soil and root mass:

1. Thoroughly moisten the soil and allow it
to drain.
2. Place your hand on top of the container,
allowing the plant stem to be between
your index and second fingers. With
your other hand, grab the bottom of the
pot and turn it upside down. Tap the pot
rim sharply against the edge of a table
or potting bench.
1 3 3. As you feel the soil and root mass
loosen, remove the pot and examine
the root system. A crowded mass or
network of constricting roots indicates a
need for repotting.
4. Place the soil and root mass back into
the pot to stay until you begin repotting.
This will help protect the delicate root
2 4 from air drying.

9
with the plant’s ability to photosynthesize and function Root Rot
properly; dust also makes plants unattractive. The most common disease of houseplants is root rot.
It is best to clean plants every 2 to 3 months with a soft This happens all too easily when the upper potting mix
cloth moistened with warm water. Be sure to wipe clean appears dry, but the lower mix, where about two-thirds
both the top and bottom surfaces of the leaves. Another of the roots are, is still moist. Wilting leaves are the main
way to clean plants is to place them in the shower, sink, or symptom of root rots. Because this is also a symptom of too
outdoors and rinse them with warm water. A mild soap little water, people naturally think the plant doesn’t have
wash will help clean plants and can also help prevent in- enough water, so they water it. In fact, there is too much
sect and disease damage. water smothering the roots.
Turning plants to expose all sides of the plant to avail- Water only as needed, and check the bottom of the pot
able light is also important. Turning the plant promotes before watering. To determine if the plant needs watering,
a plant with a uniform shape. Remove dead, diseased, or you can use your finger, as previously described, or stick
discolored foliage. Use scissors to trim dried brown leaf an unpainted wood dowel into the pot. If the bottom of the
tips and margins. For best results, follow the shape of the dowel has soil adhering to it, don’t water. Overwatering
leaf when trimming to maintain a natural appearance. kills more plants than does underwatering.
A number of soil-borne disease organisms cause this
Diseases rot. When rot occurs, cut away and destroy all diseased
Diseases of houseplants are relatively rare. Many prob- plant parts. Keep the plant moderately dry. If the potting
lems attributed to diseases are actually caused by unfavor- mix is very wet, it may help to repot the plant. To help
able growing conditions. eliminate soil-borne organisms in potting soil mixes, steril-
Prevention is the best way to control indoor plant dis- ize the mixture.
eases. Inspect the plant carefully before you buy. Look for
an indication of diseases, wilting, or leaf spots. Examine Mildew
the soil. Does it look as if it has been wet for a long time? Mildew is a fungus disease that is common on many
Does it have a slight green cast on the surface or algae houseplants. The first signs are whitish spots or patches
growing on it? on the leaves. These spots may later become darker.
If possible, inspect the color and size of the root sys- Provide good ventilation and avoid wetting the leaves
tem. Look for white (healthy) roots that are well distrib- when watering.
uted in the soil. If the roots are gray or brown, or worse,
if they smell of decay, select another plant. In order to Leaf Spots
inspect the roots, you may need to place your index and A number of fungi will cause leaves to scorch or spot.
middle finger around the main stem(s) of the plant, turn These spots are usually small, circular, and tan. Do not
the pot upside down, and gently bump the pot edge on a sprinkle the foliage when watering, and increase air circu-
solid surface. Be careful not to spill the potting mix. lation. Also remove any diseased leaves as they appear.
A clean, sterile potting soil or medium will help pre-
vent problems caused by various disease-causing organ- Insects
isms. It is very important to make sure that the pot is well Preventing insects is a much better approach than hav-
drained and that the drainage holes are not plugged. ing to treat your houseplants at some future date. Always
If you suspect one of your plants is diseased, isolate it inspect new plants carefully before purchasing. If you see
immediately! To prevent spread of diseases, isolate all dis- any sign of insect damage or infestation, choose another
eased plants from healthy plants. They can be diagnosed plant. If you buy a new plant that is infested with insects,
and treated in isolation. your other plants may become infested, as well.
If a leaf or plant part looks diseased, remove and Quarantine plants received as gifts and watch them
destroy it immediately. Do not let it stay in the pot or carefully for at least 1 week before placing them among
around other plants where the disease can spread to other plants in your collection. A routine examination and
healthy plant parts. proper sanitation practices (keeping foliage clean, removing
Fungi and bacteria cause most houseplant diseases. dead stems and leaves) will help prevent insect infestations.
Bacteria usually produce angular lesions frequently sur- Finally, if you put any plants outside for any period
rounded by yellow halos or water-soaked areas. Fungi pro- of time, be sure to examine them carefully before bringing
duce a wide variety of symptoms including root rots, stem them back inside. Don’t overlook the soil. Ants, millipedes,
lesions, leaf spots, mildews, and rusts. sowbugs, and various other creatures may have taken up
residence in potting soil.
10
 Identification is another important part of pest con-
trol. Being able to recognize a few common pests and
their method of feeding will keep damage to a minimum.
Among the most common are aphids, scales, mealy bugs,
and spider mites. The illustrations at right and descriptions
below should help with proper pest identification.
Aphids are globular-shaped sucking insects that are scale (.125”) spider mite (.01”)
usually found in clusters at the stem tip and on the under-
side of foliage. They are only one-eighth of an inch long
and are light green, pink, or black. They may cause the
plant’s foliage to be curled, twisted, or deformed.
Scales are sucking insects that have little or no resem-
blance to insects except in their early life. Eggs hatch into
tiny crawlers that move about for a short time before set- mealy bug (.2”) aphid (.2”)

tling down into one spot. They attach themselves to stems

and to the underside of leaves and, at first, appear to be
small bumps or blisters. They are small (one-sixteenth to Acclimation
one-eighth inch) and somewhat protected by their outer Even after carefully analyzing and selecting a suitable
shell, which is greenish-brown or black. Scale insects suck plant, you may have a plant that appears to decline and do
sap and cause leaves to turn yellowish and the ends of poorly when first brought indoors from the garden center.
stems to die back several inches. Often this is caused by the natural response of acclima-
Mealy bugs are soft bodied, sucking insects that are tion—the process of a plant’s adjusting to its new environ-
about one-fifth to one-third inch long. Their bodies are cov- ment. The drastic and sudden change of light intensity,
ered with a whitish or yellowish, powdery wax and waxy humidity, and other factors will usually result in yellowing
filaments. The masses of wax from their bodies and cottony foliage, which eventually drops off the plant. Most plants
egg sacks make the plant unsightly. The insect can move will gradually adjust and improve in appearance. To help
about and is typically found in crevices such as stems and reduce the shock, try to furnish ideal growing conditions.
leaf joints and near the base of leaves. Mealy bugs injure Some retailers and growers acclimate their plants be-
plants by sucking the sap with their needle-like mouthparts. fore they are brought to the sales area. When shopping for
Aphids, some scales, and mealybugs will excrete a new plants, ask the nursery worker or shop owner if the
sugary material called “honeydew.” This material will coat plants have been acclimated. Plants that have already been
leaves as well as the floor or table on which the plant is acclimated to typical interior conditions usually do better
resting. It is sticky to the touch and may attract ants. Hon- when you place them in your home or office.
eydew is also a good medium for sooty mold. This sooty Some people like to put their houseplants outdoors
mold causes the stem and leaves to look blackish. during the spring and summer months. Before moving
Spider mites are nearly invisible mites. They are pale plants outdoors, an acclimation period is important. Help
green, red, or brown. All stages of this eight-legged pest your plants adjust to brighter and often warmer conditions
can be found on the foliage of infested plants. The spider by exposing them to outdoor conditions slowly. Put plants
mite uses its needle-like mouthparts to puncture the plant outside for a few hours each day for several weeks before
tissues. This feeding causes a finely stippled, spotted, or totally moving them outdoors. Increase the number of
mottled effect on the plant foliage. When infestations are hours outdoors each day.
severe, the leaves may become covered with silvery white
webbing, spun by the mites.
See Extension Publication 2652 Insect Pests of Houseplants
for more detailed information on the identification and
biology of insect and mite pests of indoor plants and recom-
mendations on managing and controlling these pests. This
publication includes information on cultural and organic
controls, as well as conventional insecticides labeled for use
on indoor plants.

11
 Table 1. Diagnosing symptoms of common indoor plant problems.
Symptoms
Foliage Growth Flowers Possible causes

fail to develop–bud drop

brown tips or margins

bend down and curl

weak, thin, and soft

new leaves small

color less intense

become smaller
yellowish green

decline too fast

none develop
oldest drop

plant died

no bloom
all drop

spots

wilt

• • • Excess light: Exposure to direct sun can be too intense for many plants.

• • • • • • • • Insufficient light: Impairs photosynthesis and flowering.

• • • • Day length: If too short, reduces growth, flowering, and life expectancy.

High temperature: Especially at night, reduces growth and vigor; also detri-
• • • • • • • • •
mental for flowering.

• • • • • Low temperature: Continued exposure hurts plant growth.

• • • • • • • • • • Lack of water: Limiting factor for growth and survival.

Overwatering or poor drainage: Reduces soil aeration; roots die; water and
• • • • • • • • • • •
nutrients are not absorbed.
Too much fertilizer: Accumulation of soluble salts injures plant roots and
• • • • • • • • •
reduces water uptake.

• • • • • • • • Lack of fertilizer: Causes a deficiency of nutrients required for plant growth.

• • • • • • • • Compacted soil: Reduces root functions and activity.

• • • • • • Growing container: Too small or too large in relation to plant size.

• • • • • • • • • • • • Low humidity: Air too dry to maintain healthy growth and flowering.

The information given here is for educational purposes only. References to commercial products, trade names, or suppliers are made with the under-
standing that no endorsement is implied and that no discrimination against other products or suppliers is intended.

Publication 1012 (POD-01-19)

Revised by James M. DelPrince, PhD, AIFD, PFCI, Extension Horticulture Specialist and Assistant Extension Professor, MSU Coastal Research and Ex-
tension Center. Publication originally authored by James H. Perry, former Extension Horticulturist.

Copyright 2019 by Mississippi State University. All rights reserved. This publication may be copied and distributed without
alteration for nonprofit educational purposes provided that credit is given to the Mississippi State University Extension Service.
Produced by Agricultural Communications.
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Extension Service of Mississippi State University, cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture. Published in
furtherance of Acts of Congress, May 8 and June 30, 1914. GARY B. JACKSON, Director