Laying up Offsets

Laying up offsets is the method of taking what appears to be a jumble of

numbers on an Excel document to make panels for your stitch and glue
kayak.

This method is easy once you understand that the points are just
measurements to plot these points on a graph, the graph ‘paper’ being
your Marine plywood panel. The points are then joined and this forms
the outline of your kayak panel.

Below is part of a set of offsets that we would provide to build Fulmar:

cm Yoffset 9.31 9.52 9.62 9.73 9.85 10.02 10.49 11.05 11.68 12 13.17 14.01 14.91 15.85
cm Yoffset 9.31 4.84 3.3 2.27 1.65 1.36 1.71 2.02 2.29 2.49 2.66 2.78 2.86 2.92
cm Xoffset 0 7 10 13 15 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

The ‘Xoffset’ is the markings along the bottom of the plywood. This is a
regular scale and in the case above it is 10cm. However it can be seen
at the start that the first five Xoffsets (0,7,10,13,15) do not fall into the
regular scale. This is because this is the end of the panel and there is
sharp movement in this area that needs to be plotted accurately, so a
smaller scale is used, or a Yoffset needs to be in a particular place that
does not fit with the normal scale being used. This tends to happen at
ends of the panels - The smaller the scale the more accurate the
plotting.

So to start the process the plywood panel needs to be laid flat on a

surface that will not mark the plywood. From a straight cut edge – factory
cut edges are best – the plywood can be marked up with pencil lines for
the Xoffset. These lines usually run at right angles to the longest edge of
the plywood:-

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0 7 10 15 20 30 40 50 60 xx..

Xoffsets

The above diagram is simplified, as on a standard plywood panel that

measures 122cm X 244cm there will be 24 Xoffsets at 10 cm apart. The
blue bottom edge is to illustrate that this is the ‘straight edge’ that we will
be measuring off.

It is vital that these Xoffsets are accurate. A thin pencil and time taken to
ensure they are accurate is well worth the time, as this will make the rest
of the kayak build easier – make sure the tape measure used is not
damaged and is accurate.

Once the plywood has been marked up, the Yoffsets can be marked out
on the corresponding Xoffset line. So from the examples above, on the
10cm Xoffset, you would measure 3.3cm up from the straight edge of
the plywood (blue line). Measure accurately and place a pencil dot at the
location. Then measure the second Yoffset which in the case is 9.62cm
(Numbers such as these should be rounded to the nearest 0.1, so this
would be 9.6cm), again from the bottom blue line. At this point place
another dot. You will now have two dots one above the other on the
10cm Xoffset line.

This process is repeated for all the Xoffsets. At the 0cm Xoffset you will
notice that the Yoffsets are the same. This is because this is a point at
the end of the kayak panel.

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At non-regular offsets such as above – 7, 13, 15cm Xoffsets. These will

need to be measured and marked in the same way.–

The process above will produce you the following, which we also provide
with our offsets as a diagrammatic visual aid to assist laying up the
offsets:

From this diagram you can see how the marked points are then joined to
make the panel. When you lay up the offsets for a panel you can use
this visual aid to check the panel looks correct at the end. However I
have found if you make a mistake, when you do the following steps it
becomes obvious as the panel will not ‘look right’, for example there will
be a sudden dip in the panel. If you find it does not ‘look right’ then
check Yoffset measurement in that position.

To join the Yoffsets together in a line accurately, I use a panel pin in

each Yoffset. This then allows me to use a ‘fair edge’ to place against
the pins with a weight at each pin holding the ‘fair edge’ in position. The
‘fair edge’ is anything that will bend to the curve in a ‘fair’ way between
the two points and not just at the points, at the same time it is able to be
drawn against. This allows the line to be drawn very accurately. It is
important that any weight used to hold the ‘fair edge’ in place does not
distort the ‘fair edge’ at the pins, so if for example you use a brick, use
the corner to hold the ‘fair edge’ against the pin, not the flat part which
can cause distortion.

The ‘fair edge’ also needs to be a good length. Although not technical, I
use plastic tile edging trim as my ‘fair edge’. If you use wood, be mindful
of knots and anything else that can affect the ‘fairness’ of the curve.

Having marked out one panel, you will need to mark out the next. To do
this I measure from the same bottom straight edge (blue line) as my first
panel and mark up on the same Xoffset lines. However I need the next
panel above the first one on the plywood.

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To do this I measure the top most part of my first panel. If at the highest
point it is for example 13cm, I will give it a leeway of a couple of cm’s. I
will then add 15cm onto each Yoffset for the second panel and then
measure from the same edge as I did the first panel. This has the effect
of lifting the second panel clear of the first and ensures that I am still
working from the same straight edge.

So for example: if plotting Xoffsets at 70cm from the table above, first
Yoffset is 2.66cm so 2.66cm + 15cm = 17.66cm (rounded to 17.7cm),
the second Yoffset is13.17cm so 13.17 + 15cm = 28.17 (rounded to
28.2cm).

Xoffset 70cm = Yoffsets at 17.7cm and 28.2cm

If using this method, something like 15cm is also good as it keeps the
maths simple. Using this method you can layup panels on the entire
sheet of plywood and mark out panels before you do any cutting. It also
has the benefit that you do not need to cut out one panel at a time and
try to get a straight edge again to measure up the next panel.

*** You only need to mark up offsets for one half of the kayak. Once you
have marked up one half of the kayak, cut out the panels and finished
them ready for building, you will be able to use these panels as
templates to mark out the other half. Once cut, put the new matching
panels together with the template panels and plane or sand the new
panels to exactly the same as the original template panels.***

To cut out the panels everyone has their own preference, but I use a
Japanese pull saw which, with practice allows me to saw right at the
edge of the panel lines very accurately thus minimising the need for any
planning or sanding. If using a jigsaw or other saw it will be necessary to
leave a few millimetres between cut and panel line that then requires
planning or sanding.

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 Laying up Offsets

When planning your layup of the panels, often the kayak panel will not fit
on one plywood panel so you carry onto another marked up in the same
way. If your build guide advises you to use a butt joint to join the panels
you just carrying on in the same way on the next panel. However if you
are required to use a scarf joint between the panels, the size of the scarf
joint will need to be added to one, of the panels (build guide for the
kayak you have selected will explain regarding scarf joints and which
type you need to use). For example if you need a 10cm scarf joint to join
the panels, you will need to add an additional 10cm at the end of one
panel to provide the required overlap.

Panel 1 Panel 2

Xoffsets.... 70 80 90 90 100 110 ......

Scarf joint length

Note you start on the next panel on the same Xoffset as the end of the
previous as they are in effect the same position when joined.

Once you have spent time marking up, cutting out and finishing lovely
panels to build your kayak, please note they are fragile at this stage.
They will mark if scraped and fine ends get broken off easily, so take
care. Next stage is onto the build guide for your kayak.

If you have any questions please message me and I will try to assist.

Regards Paul Nicol

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