Megalith Guide
Megalith Guide
MENHIRS
MEGALITHS BRITTANy
of Central
and other to the
NEZERT BOOKS
Samuel Lewis lives and works in Central Brittany, where he first developed an interest in megaliths. He is the author of the Central Brittany Journals popular Megalith Diary, and also contributes to the Journal's Gardening and Nature sections.
Guide
MENHIRS
MEGALITHS
and other
to the
BRITTANy
of Central
Samuel Lewis
ZER
OOK
First Published July 2009 Nezert Books Le Nezert, 22160 Duault, France ISBN: 952 270 595 2 Nezert Books 2009 Printed by Le Fur Imprimerie, BP 231, Z.A de la Villeneuve, 29834 Carhaix.
Photographs: Wendy Lewis: pages 1 / 14 / 15 / 17 / 33 top / 34 / 35 / 38 / 41 bottom / 42 bottom / 43 / 44 / 46 / 51 / 67; Tom Keen: page 28; Gareth Lewis: pages 41 top / 68 / 69; Mary-Ellen Webb: page 42 top; Alan Kirton: page 45; Thierry Boderhat: page 48; all other photos by the author. Artwork: Bethan Lewis, necklace, page 10; other drawings by the author. Cover: The Kergadiou Menhir, Plourin. Inside front cover: Cailouan Menhir, Plsidy P. 13: Menhir near Pasquiou, le Vieux-Bourg. Thanks to: Readers of the CBJ for information supplied to Megalith Diary. Alain Goutal for information about menhirs in the Forest of Duault. Special thanks to the residents of Brittany who care for the ancient megaliths and who provide free access to them across their land.
CONTENTS
Contents
Western Finistere
Kerloas Menhir Kergadiou Menhirs Cairn at Barnenez Lagatjar Alignments Alignment at Lostmarch
no.
1 2 3 4 5
Menez Arez
Wedding Party Alignment Menhir at le Clotre Kerampeulven Menhir Mougau-Bihan Ty ar Boudiged 6 7 8 9 10
Menez DU
Trimen Menhir Croaz-an-Teurec Alignment Castel-Rufel St-Jean Menhir 11 12 13 14
GUinGAMP AreA
Kerguezennec Menhir Pdernec Menhir Pergat Menhir 15 16 17
FOrest OF DUAULt
Kercoutois Menhir Les Jumeaux La Dent de St-Servais Covered Alley Toul an Urz Paotr Saout 18 19 20 21 22
ArGOAt
Covered Alley at Kernescop Roch Toul Dolmen 23 24
CONTENTS
25 26 27 28
VieUX-BOUrG MenHirs
Menhirs of the Croix de Pasquiou Menhir near Pasquiou Porzic Menhir Menhirs near Botudo Pont-aux-Prtres Menhir La Roche-Longue 29 30 31 32 33 34
FOrest OF LAnVAUX
Jean Babouin Loge aux Loups 42 43
CArnAC stOnes
Kerzerho Alignments Lost Stones of Kerzerho Man Braz & Man Groh Dolmen of Crucuno The Great Alignments Champ-Dolent, DOL-DE-BRETAGNE Roche-aux-Fes, ESSE 44 45 46 47 48 49 50
INTRODUCTION
Brittany has a greater concentration of megalithic stones than any other part of the world, and it is words from the language of Brittany - Breton - that are universally used to describe different sorts of megaliths. In Breton, menhir means tall stone (men = stone, hir = tall) and dolmen means stone table (dol = table, men = stone). Brittany is home to many of the worlds most spectacular megaliths: the worlds tallest menhir is to be found in Brittany; the worlds largest alignments of megalithic stones occur round Carnac, on the south coast of Brittany; the worlds biggest dolmen is to be found not far from Rennes, Brittanys capital city; and the worlds largest megalithic cairn is sited on the north coast of Brittany. There is also a host of lesser-known megalithic stones, of all shapes and sizes, scattered across the Breton countryside, each with its own history and folklore. This book is not a complete guide to every single megalithic stone in Brittany such a work would probably be impossible rather, it is designed to provide information about a selection of stones, which, when taken together, will give the visitor a genuine insight into the mysterious world of Brittanys megalithic heritage.
Introduction
The two questions that everyone asks when they see their first megalith is: Who put it there? and Why did they put it there?. Over the years, many people have attempted to answer these questions, but none of the explanations have been able to withstand the test of time. In the nineteenth century, it was almost universally assumed that the stones were druidic in origin, and, as a natural consequence of this, theories relating to the stones were based upon what little was known of the druidic religion. For instance, it is from this time that the once widespread belief comes that the dolmens were used for human sacrifice. It is now thought to be highly unlikely that the druids were involved in such practices, but more importantly, with regards to the stones themselves, it is now agreed that they long pre-date the arrival of Celtic people, and the druids, in Brittany. Current thinking is that most of Brittanys megalithic stones were set in place around 7000 years ago. This would date them alongside the ancient civilisations of Mesopotamia and the Indus valley, but the truth is that no one can say who erected
Menhirs and other Megaliths of Central Brittany
INTRODUCTION
Etched on the walls of some stone chambers are patterns and motifs, as mysterious today as the megaliths themselves. There are also several carved menhirs, but most of the art appears inside dolmens. The most spectacular example of this is at the cairn on Gavrinis, an island in the Gulf of Morbihan. Here, nearly all of the 29 stones which form the walls have been covered with snaking lines and spiralling circles - perhaps the work of a prehistoric Michelangelo...
Megalithic art
Carving, Gavrinis.
them or when. There is still a possibility that they could be far older than this. The ancient civilisations of the Middle East, India and Egypt have left records in the form of clay tablets, intricate stone carvings, and oral histories passed from generation to generation - all of which combine to give us a picture of the lives led by the people of those times. No such records exist to tell us about the people who put Brittanys stones in place; we do not know who they were, how they lived, or why they wanted to build such monumental structures. This is perhaps one of the greatest fascinations of the megaliths; every one who sees them is free to speculate, and to make up their own ideas about their original purpose.
Not knowing who put up the stones, makes it difficult to know why they did it. Nevertheless, theories abound as to what the original purpose of the various stones might have been. Up until recently, for example, it was assumed 6
Menhirs and other Megaliths of Central Brittany
INTRODUCTION
that dolmens, tumuli and covered alleys were all different sorts of tombs or burial chambers. There is, however, no firm evidence that even this theory is correct; recent observations of how the sun or the moon shine into tumuli to strike a certain point at a certain time of the year, tend to contradict the idea that they were originally built as closed burial chambers. Human remains have been found in, or close to, certain megaliths but, so far, it has not been possible to prove that any of them date back to the time when the stones were set in place. The menhirs, and alignments, are, if anything, even more difficult to explain than the dolmens. No civilisation of recent times has felt compelled to build these sorts of structures, and it is hard to understand why so much time and energy should have been expended on a task for which we can see no obvious use.
As with all aspects of this subject, there is a certain amount of disagreement as to which parts of the world megalithic stones are to be found. Everyone agrees that they are widespread in Brittany, England, Wales, Ireland and Scotland. They are also common in the Netherlands, Sweden, Denmark, Northern Germany, Northern Spain, Portugal, and the west of France. There are arrangements of stones in many other parts of the world, including places as far afield as Korea, West Africa, and India, which to all intents and purposes seem to be megaliths, but no one can say for certain whether or not they date back to the same era as the European stones, or whether the people who built them had any contact with the megalith builders of Europe.
INTRODUCTION
There are several different types of megaliths to be found in Brittany: Menhir is the name given to the tall standing-stones which are, perhaps, the most distinctive of all the megaliths. Brittany has both the tallest and the largest menhirs in the world, and many of them are relatively unvisited and in remarkably unspoilt settings. There are also many smaller menhirs dotted around the countryside, some of them virtually unknown outside their particular locality. Alignment is the name given to a series of stones arranged in lines. Some alignments consist of a few stones in a straight line, whilst others are much more complex. The worlds most famous alignments are in Carnac, where there are thousands of stones carefully arranged in rows. Sometimes, series of menhirs are in line with each other, even though they are several miles apart - which raises all sorts of interesting questions about the surveying techniques available to their original builders, and the number of megaliths that might once have existed. Dolmen is the term applied to an arrangement of stones resembling a table i.e. two parallel stones set in the ground, with a large, flat table stone balanced on top. Covered alleys (once known as passage graves) are essentially a series of dolmens built in a row. A Tumulus is a mound of earth, usually covering one or more dolmens or covered alleys. Cairns are mounds of stones covering dolmens or covered alleys.
Types of Stone
It is not known why there should be so many more megaliths in Brittany than anywhere else. Perhaps the whole of Europe was once covered with megaliths, but it seems unlikely that they should have disappeared in significantly greater quantities in every other part of Europe, and it is therefore possible that when they were built, Brittany was a significant centre of early civilisation perhaps on a par with Egypt or China. If this is indeed the case, then it is a civilisation about which we know virtually nothing.
Why Brittany?
INTRODUCTION
The menhir which now lies in four huge fragments at the entrance to the Gulf of Morbihan on the Locmariaquer peninsula would once have been 18 metres tall, making it the crowning centrepiece of the megalithic world, and larger than any single stone put up before or since. Not even the Egyptians, Greeks or Romans succeeded in transporting such a weight. Studies have shown that the menhir was transported from 4 km away, and that the stones, which seem to lie where they have fallen, are not in the correct order. This has given rise to a series of speculations as to why and how the menhir could have fallen. Was the stone ever successfully raised? Did it break during its erection? Was it lightning or even an earthquake which brought it down, or was it perhaps the deliberate act of subsequent generations, who wished to reuse the stone? Plans were underway to transport the stone to Paris for the Great Exhibition of 1900, where it would have been reerected beside the Eiffel tower. Local indignation, however, brought an end to the idea. The great menhir remains today, an indisputable testimony to a vanished civilisation.
In the absence of other information, local folklore and any stories associated with the stones have to be treated with the greatest respect. Unfortunately, even until relatively recently, people in authority have tried to suppress local traditions concerning the megaliths, and there has also been a long history of religious intolerance towards local customs associated with particular stones. Thankfully, things have improved over recent years, and a certain amount of the old folklore has now been made a matter of public record. Many of the stones were believed to have healing properties or to aid fertility. Locally, stones were often referred to as house of the fairies, house of the korrigans etc, and there seem to be strong links between the stones and the traditional Breton fairy stories which feature giants, magicians, korrigans (pixies) and other fairy folk living alongside human beings. Wherever
Menhirs and other Megaliths of Central Brittany
Folklore
INTRODUCTION
possible, this folklore is included in the text describing each megalith. No one knows for certain how old these stories are: some are fairly modern invoking Christian mythology or recent historical events but some of them seem very ancient, and may even date back to the origin of the stones themselves - who knows? Many of the old customs still live on, and even today the stones are looked after with exceptional care - they have, for example, survived a revolution in agricultural practices that has swept away almost every other aspect of the traditional Breton countryside. In times gone by, the megaliths, and the reverence in which they were held, so enraged the clergy that they sometimes tried to Christianize the stones. Crosses were placed on top of them, or churches built beside (or even
One of the oldest beliefs associated with the megaliths is that they conceal buried treasure. Consequently, most sites were extensively searched many years ago. In spite of this, when archaeologists began excavating, many interesting things were discovered. The cairns and dolmens around Carnac unearthed the richest finds, including jewellery made from precious stones, and beautiful, finely-worked axe heads. The beauty and precision of these items point to a highly-civilised race, with a great tradition of art and craftsmanship.
Megalithic treasures
Perhaps the loveliest thing unearthed is the jewellery made from calais, a green jadeite stone, very popular with the ancient crafstmen. This necklace was found inside the Kergalat Dolmen, and is now in the Muse de Prhistoire, Carnac.
10
INTRODUCTION
The concept of land ownership was only introduced to Brittany after the French Revolution. The Breton tradition was that most of the country was in common ownership - belonging to the people as a whole - and individuals only had rights over the parcels of land that they farmed. In this tradition, all of Brittanys megaliths were freely accessible to both local residents and visitors, and an argument could be made that until a specific law is passed to the contrary, the megaliths legally belong to the people of the region and that everyone has a right to visit them. In almost all cases this ancient right of access is respected by Brittanys current landowners: in most cases the landowner maintains a path to a stone at his or her own expense and often takes pride in landscaping the area around it. There are a few instances where access is restricted, however, and, unfortunately, some of the worst offenders in this regard have been official bodies who have sought to make money by charging for access to the stones. In 2002 there were large-scale demonstrations in Carnac, when local protestors sought to enforce their ancient right of access to the Carnac alignments which the authorities were in the process of fencing in. A compromise was reached, and, since then, tourist boards, etc. have been more cautious about building fences around stones without proper consultation with local people.
Kermario Alignments, Carnac
over) them, and visitors to the stones were threatened with hell and damnation. And yet the stones, and the folklore associated with them, survived.
There are surprisingly few written references to Brittanys megaliths in any books prior to the beginning of the twentieth century. A hundred years ago, even the stones
Menhirs and other Megaliths of Central Brittany
Historical Records
11
INTRODUCTION
of Carnac were almost unknown outside the immediate locality, and many of the early megalith hunters were neither French nor Breton, but came from the British Isles. Typically, they were people who originally came to Brittany on walking holidays or fishing trips, and only by chance became interested by the large, unexplained stones that they came across unexpectedly, hidden away in woods and forests or on remote heath land. This peculiar state of affairs is due to the uneasy relationship that has long existed between Brittany and France. For many years, Bretons, particularly Bretonspeakers, were effectively excluded from the French establishment; this establishment encompassed not only the world of government and administration, but also education, science, literature and academic research. The stones were obviously well known to local people, but there were no local scholars to bring them to the attention of the world at large. French scholars rarely visited Brittany, and when they did, they tended to see only what they expected - downtrodden peasants in need of civilizing; they were certainly not in a frame of mind to discover in Brittany the remains of Europes most ancient civilisation. For this reason, Brittanys megaliths remained more or less unknown to the outside world until the end of the nineteenth century. Since then, they have been excavated, explored, documented, mapped, and sometimes even reconstructed, but even so, their true significance still seems to have escaped the attention of the academic community at large.
The majority of the megaliths in Brittany are in areas in which, up until very recently, Breton, not French, was the indigenous language. During the first half of the Twentieth Century, the French government was committed to a campaign to suppress the Breton language; amongst other things, this involved giving French names to all the major towns and villages. The surviving menhirs, however, tend to be in remote areas, where the new French names were never adopted - because no one living in them spoke French. As a result, the original Breton place names are still the ones most often associated with the local megalith. For this reason, this guide gives both French and Breton names for the communes in which megaliths are sited. The glossary on page 71 gives an insight into the links between folklore, place names, and megaliths. 12
Place naMes
This book concentrates upon the megaliths of Central Brittany. They tend to be less famous than some of the sites near the coast, but they have a special mystery of their own: more remote, quieter, and in completely rural settings. Its main purpose is to encourage people to visit Brittanys ancient stones - both for their own pleasure and because this is the best way of ensuring that the stones continue to be left undisturbed by land owners and local authorities. As far as possible, the megaliths have been grouped together according to their geographic location - so that more than one can be visited on an outing. The map in the centre of the book shows where they are in relation to each other, and more detailed maps and directions are included on the pages that cover each megalith (see inside back cover for a key to the classification system). Many of the stones are situated in spectacular settings, and all of them are well worth a visit especially the less well-known ones. If, in the course of your travels, you discover a stone not listed in this guide, or if you can update any facts that this guide contains, then please send us the information, which will be included in future editions.
13
WESTERN FINISTERE
Kerloas Menhir
Saint-Renan
Lokournan
The Kerloas Menhir measures 9.5m (31 ft), and is believed to be the worlds tallest menhir. Two hundred years ago it was even taller, but the top two metres were struck off by lightning. It is thought to have been erected between six and seven thousand years ago, which makes it two millennia older than the pyramids. The stone appears to have been brought a distance of at least two and a half kilometres, a journey that would have meant dragging it uphill! The menhir is on the top of a ridge of land and is said to be visible from the city of Brest, thirty kilometres away. Like other menhirs of the region, the stone is very smooth and elegantly shaped. From one side it looks thin, and from the other, very wide, and it tapers as it goes upwards. There is a hollow towards the top and two lumps at the bottom directly opposite each other. Couples traditionally came here and rubbed their stomachs against the lumps: men did so in hope of having a son, and women in hope of becoming head of the house.
Brls Plouarzel
D5
Bois de Kervatouz P MENHIR
D5
Kerloas
St-Renan
Brest
15
2
Plourin
WESTERN FINISTERE
Kergadiou Menhirs
Plourin-Gwitalmeze
Not far from Kerloas is the great Menhir of Kergadiou. It stands between Brles and Plourin, and at 8.75m (28 ft) is one of the worlds tallest menhirs. It has also been described as the most perfectly shaped. A few metres away is an eleven-metre long, menhir couch (recumbent menhir). It can easily be climbed, giving visitors a spectacular, panoramic view over both land and sea. There is a story of how the Kergadiou Menhir once belonged to an English sorceress. It was stolen and carried off to Brittany, where it was set up at Kergadiou. The sorceress was furious, and picking up a great block of stone, hurled it in the direction of the menhir. The throw was a powerful one, and the aim excellent, considering that it came all the way from England - however, it missed by just a few feet, leaving the menhir unharmed, and creating the second, fallen menhir. The field belongs to a farmer, so it may be necessary to negotiate a fence or even cows. The menhirs are nonetheless very well visited by both Porspoder Plourin locals and tourists from all D6 8 over Europe.
Kergadiou
D2 8
D6
D28
St-Renan
Brles
16
WESTERN FINISTERE
19 3
Cairn at Barnenez
Plouezoch
The Cairn at Barnenez is situated just north of Morlaix in one of the Breton coast's most spectacular settings. In the 1950s it was thought to simply be a large, stony mound covered with grass and earth, but when a local building contractor started to use it as a stone quarry it became apparent that it was, in fact, Europes largest known megalithic cairn - dating back at least 6000 years. What we see today is the result of restoration work carried out in the 1960s. When excavated, the cairn was found to be quite empty, but it is known that local people had dug into the mound at some time during the 1800s.
There is a charge to enter this site. The cairn is open to visitors every day except Mondays. The first Sunday of each month from November to May is free. Tel: 02 98 67 24 73
Carantec
Barnenez
Cairn P
Kernlhen
Rade de Morlaix
D7
D7
Locqunol Morlaix
Plouzoch
Morlaix
17
WESTERN FINISTERE
Lagatjar Alignments
Camaret-sur-Mer Kameled
At the tip of the Crozon peninsular, just outside the busy port of Camaret-surMer, are the Lagatjar alignments - some of the most celebrated menhirs in the world. These stones - well over 100 in number are carved from white stone and stand on a plain beside the sea. Although still standing in the mid-1800s, by the early 1900s they had fallen over, and lay prostrate on the ground, tumbled by an unknown cause. They were stood back up in 1928, and although there have been doubts as to how accurately this was done, it seems probable that they are in a very similar state now to how they were in Ancient times.
Alignments
Lagatjar
D8
18
D8
Crozon
Camaretsur-Mer
WESTERN FINISTERE
Crozon Kraozon
Alignment at Lostmarch
Crozon
D2 55
At Lostmarch, also on the Crozon peninsular, there is Morgat a stone alignment of sevAlignment eral menhirs perched on the Kerlouantec Lostmarch clifftop overlooking the sea. Pointe de Surrounded by gorse and Lostmarch heather, these stones are in an incomparable setting, and seem to belong to a timeless era. Some way below there are the traces of a remarkable pre-Roman coastal stronghold, with the original ditch and earthworks cutting across the headland. There were once many more stone rows on the Crozon peninsular, but time and human activity have all but obliterated their traces. It has been suggested that maybe this isolated outcrop of land once had some special religious significance.
D2 55
19
MENEZ AREZ
The Menez Arez (French, Monts dAre) are Brittanys tallest range of hills, culminating in the Roch ar Trevazel (384m) between Commana and La Feuille. Characterized by peat bogs, heaths, windswept crags and forests, the area has largely escaped the intensive farming methods which caused the destruction of many ancient megaliths during the last century. A remarkable alignment of up to 77 stones, known as La Noce de Pierres - the stone wedding party (An Eured Ven in Breton) - makes its way across the peat bogs at the foot of the Menez Mikael (Mont-St-Michel de Brasparts), one of the regions tallest hills. Half-buried in the gorse, the alignCommana Plounour-Mnez ment is on fairly wet ground. Some Morlaix stones are barely more than ankle Rservoir de high and many have tipped over, St-Michel Yeun Elez but the largest are about as tall as a peat bog person, and can easily be climbed. It has been said that these stones Alignment Menez were once a large and boisterous la Noce de Pierres Mikael wedding party, finishing off the Centre de Formation last dance of the festivities, when Chasse - Nature they were turned to stone for their Brasparts impolite treatment of a traveller.
D7 8 5
20
21
7
Huelgoat
MENEZ AREZ
Menhir at Le Clotre
An Uhelgoad
The Menhir at Le Clotre is close to the D767 just outside Huelgoat, on the edge of the Monts dAre. Turn off on a small road, direction Pontauban, and keep on for the hamlets of Le Clotre and St-Vinec. The menhir is some way before Le Clotre, slightly obscured by a hedge but quite visible from the road. It is in a private garden, close to a house built in 1978 before the significance of the stone was recognised. Visitors are very welcome. St-Vinec Huelgoat le Clotre Gorse and woodMENHIR land lie close to the la Feuille menhir, and there are Pontauban tales of a lost abbey Brennilis D7 64 in the vicinity - as the name le Clotre (the Carhaix cloister) would imply.
D14
22
MENEZ AREZ
Kerampeulven Menhir
Berrien
The Kerampeulven Menhir is probably the most famous in the Monts dAre. Tall and slender, it stands in a small field, surrounded by trees and a few houses. It is well signposted and the site is very welcoming. The stone has always drawn many visitors; women who could not have children would come to rub their stomachs against it, and at one time there was a spring here with curative properties. Although just north of Berrien the town of Quinimilin Huelgoat, the menhir is Kerampeulven actually in the commune of Kervao Berrien.
Below: The tea shop in Huelgoat makes a welcome stop for a weary megalith hunter. Open 7am-7.30pm every day except Sun. and Wed.
Huelgoat
la Feuille
D76 4
D1
Carhaix
D14
23
MENEZ AREZ
Mougau-Bihan
Commana
Kommanna
Mougau means cavern, and this large and cavernous alle couverte (covered alley), is justifiably one of Brittanys most famous megalithic sites. The stones do not seem to have suffered much disturbance, and are in very good condition. Inside, there are several carvings, including one that is supposed to be an axe in relief, and another which is perhaps a guardian Mother Goddess. Surrounding the covered alley is an old plum and apple orchard, and across the road is an area of protected peat bog, with a marked path for walkers. In the distance can be seen the craggy hills of the Menez Arez. It has been recounted that giants lived in Mougau-Bihan, and that they were constantly warring with the korrigans who inhabited the nearby Ty-ar Boudiged (opposite page).
Landivisiau
D764
D1 1
Commana
ME NE Z
EZ AR
Sizun
le Mongo Braz
Huelgoat
D764
Mougau Bihan
24
MENEZ AREZ
10
Ty ar Boudiged
La Maison des Fes
The Ty ar Boudiged (Maison des Fes, House of the Fairies), is on the edge of the town of Brennilis. It is owned by the Finistre Archaeology Society, which excavated the site in 1991 (but found nothing of interest). It is one of the most unusual megaliths in Central Brittany because, although it is a covered alley, it still retains its original mound of earth. It is thought that all dolmens and covered alleys were once buried in this way, but this is one of the few that have withstood the test of time. This is an exceptionally pleasant site, and it is great fun to scramble in and out of the cave made by the stones. As its name implies, the Ty ar Boudiged was once thought to have been inhabited by fairy-folk.
D36
La Feuille
D7 64
Brennilis
Brenniliz
Huelgoat Carhaix
Bellevue
P Brennilis
Ty ar Boudiged
Loqueffret
25
11
MENEZ DU
St-Goazec
Trimen Menhir
Sant-Goazeg
Trimen means three stones, and at the beginning of the last century, three menhirs once stood by the little hamlet of Trimen. Two have fallen, but the last, and tallest, remains. Its front and back sides are flat and very wide, whereas from the side it is hardly noticeable. Situated in the middle of a field, it is clearly visible from the road.
Chteauneuf-du-Faou
St-Goazec
Castel Ruphel
Roudouallec
26
MENEZ DU
12
Sant-Goazeg
Croaz-an-Teurec Alignment
St-Goazec
The Montagnes Noires (Breton: Menez Du), is the name given to the hills which stretch south-east from around Chteaulin to Gourin and Plouray. The area has always been known for its megaliths, and today it is still home to a variety of interesting stones. The small alignment of three stones at Croaz-an-Teurec is remarkable, not so much for its size, but for the fact that it exists at all. Over the millennia, many of the smaller alignments have disappeared, but at Croaz-an-Teurec there are three stones still standing. According to tradition, there were once many more menhirs in this alignment, but the rest have fallen and been removed. The stones are not hard to find as they actually stretch across the road, two on one side and one on the other. Close by, and also beside the Chteauneuf-du-Faou road, is another menhir St-Goazec of the same height.
Croaz an Teurec Trimen
D6 D41
Castel Ruphel
Roch Toull
alignment
Gourin Scar
Roudouallec
D1
27
13
St-Goazec
MENEZ DU
Castel-Rufel
Sant-Goazeg
The interesting covered alley of Castel-Rufel (Menez an Duc in Breton) is in the heart of the Montagnes Noires. It is at the top of one of the highest hills in the area, which is also the site of an ancient hill fort. There is an abandoned quarry at the foot of the hill, and the area around the covered alley is uncultivated. It is quite different from most of the other covered alleys in Brittany in that it is built in the arc-boute style, i.e. like a card house, with the stones leaning against each other for support. A popular story tells how it was once the home of the Giant Rufel, who was chief of the area and occupied the hill fort, where he lived with his daughter and a band of soldiers. One day one of the guardsmen ran away with the giants daughter, and by the time Rufel noticed their absence, the couple had got as far as Scar. In his wrath the giant laid his hands on any stones he could find, including some from his own house (explaining the alleys dilapidated condition), and hurled them in quick succession after the retreating pair. Luckily the giants daughter, together with the guardsman, succeeded in escaping, but the stones which Rufel had thrown, lay scattered across the whole length of the Menez Du. These are the menhirs which abound in the area. Many have been removed, but one of the largest, known as Chteauneuf-du-Faou St-Goazec the St-Jean Menhir (facing page), is still standing today.
Trimen
D6
Croaz an Teurec
D41
Castel Ruphel
Gourin Scar
Roudouallec
D1
28
MENEZ DU
14
Skaer
Saint-Jean Menhir
Scar
The St-Jean Menhir stands near the town of Scar, on the D6 to St-Thurien, between the hamlets of St-Jean and MinSt-Jean. It is a famous landmark in the area, and very characterfully shaped. It does not possess the spherical perfection of many menhirs, and has numerous lumps and cracks on its surface; there is even a ledge one-third of the way up, large enough for a person to sit on quite comfortably! Unusually, the stone is surrounded by a low stone wall, and there is a tree-lined path leading up to it. The menhir stands near the St-Jean chapel and hamlet, where the festival of St-Jean was celebrated annually. This Christian festival is the successor to the ancient Summer Solstice celebration, and it is probable that this has been a holy site for thousands of years.
Coray Chateauneufdu-Faou
D4
le Faout Gourin
D78 2
Scar
D78
D6
St-Jean
Menhir
Min St-Jean
St-Thurien
29
15
GUINGAMP AREA
Kerguezennec Menhir
Bgard
Bear
The Keguezennec Menhir is north-west of Guingamp, near the town of Bgard. It is close to the small hamlet of Keguezennec, in the heart of the countryside, and is not particularly easy to find. Once you are on the right road, however, it becomes visible from a good distance away. The menhir is in a field, but access on foot is quite easy. It is a curiously-shaped stone; from the front and back it appears enormous, but a glance from the side reveals it to be remarkably thin. This menhir, together with those at Pdernec and Louargat (see next two pages), seem to be in line with each other, although they are separated Brlidy by quite large distances. Lannion Menhir A few metres down the road a sunken pathway leads off to Bgard Kerguezennec the ruisseau de Kerogan, a pretty little river, forded by an ancient stone bridge. D
76 7
D1
Gunzan
Guingamp
30
GUINGAMP AREA
16
Pdernec Menhir
Pdernec
Pederneg
The massive menhir near Pdernec is one of Brittanys largest. It is situated in the hilly countryside west of Guingamp and has a fine view over the Menez Br, one of the regions highest hills. In spite of its fame, this menhir is not well signposted. It is down a track off the D15 from Bgard to Louargat: look out for a lane between two houses in the hamlet of Parc Lan Bihan. A small iron bar at the Gunzan Lannion Bgard top of the menhir is all that D7 67 Parc Lan Bihan remains of a statue of Saint Menhir Kergillouard Braz Min Hir Peter, which was fixed there Louargat in 1878. Guingamp Beside the stone is a la Gare crooked sweet chestnut tree. RAILWAY Pdernec
D1 5
31
17
GUINGAMP AREA
Pergat Menhir
Louargat
Louergad
A visit to the Pergat Menhir is an unforgettable experience. The menhir stands in a wet glade, surrounded by trees. A short path leads to it from the road, and it is a breathtaking sight when the stone first comes into view. Another, small menhir is situated some metres away, and between these is a larger, recumbent menhir, which, together with the other stones, must once have formed a small alignment. The Pergat Menhir is believed to be 7000 years old, and measures approximately 7.50 metres (25 ft). The site is well visited and famous in the area. la Gare RAILWAY It is interesting to note that the three menhirs, at Kerguezennec, Pdernec Bgard Pergat Braz and Pergat, appear to be in line with BEGARD each other. Menhir
D31
Pluzunet
D1
Menez Br
Pedernec menhir
Kerguezennec menhir
Louargat
Morlaix
N12 Guingamp
Directions:
32
FOREST OF DUAULT
18
Kercoutois Menhir
St-Servais
Sant-Servez
The Forest of Duault lies between the villages of Duault and Saint-Servais. Occupying a series of rocky hills, it is one of the richest megalithic sites in Central Brittany, with at least 12 menhirs and dolmens within its borders or close by. None of these are signposted, however, and it takes a little ingenuity and perseverance to locate all the stones, which are often hidden by trees. The forest menhir is situated in the middle of a fire break, close to the hamlets of Kercutois and Kerpinson. At around 4 metres (12 ft) tall, it is a fairsized stone.
St-Servais
Callac Kerroux Izellan Milin Kerroux Moulin de le Bourg-Neuf le Bourg-Neuf Clojou
les Jumeaux forest menhir
Mal-Pestivien
Kerroux
Kerbernes
Kercoutois Kerpinson
Duault Kerangle
Toul-an-Urz Dent de St-Servais
Convenant Bercot
Ivy-covered menhir
Roudou-Laerez menhir
P
Gorges du Corong
33
19
FOREST OF DUAULT
Les Jumeax
34
FOREST OF DUAULT
20
Sant-Servez
La Dent de Saint-Servais
Saint-Servais
This is the tallest menhir of the forest, and the most impressive in the area. Although well-visited, it gives the impression of being quite lost among the trees. A small forest path leads to the stone from the road which runs to Convenat Bercot. Dent de St-Servais literally means The tooth of St-Servais, and a story tells how a giant once lost his teeth in the forest. The menhirs shape is definitely reminiscent of a tooth. There are several stones nearby which could well be fallen menhirs. (See map page 33.)
35
ARGOAT VIEUX-BOURG MENHIRS DAOULAS & POULANCRE FOREST OF LANVAUX CARNAC STONES
Roscoff
Brignogan-Plage
D10 D10
St-Pol-de-Lon Carantec
8 D5
D5
Locq
3
Plouzoch
D7 86
D69
Ploudalmzeau
D770
2
Plouarzel
D7
88
Porspoder
MORLAIX
N12
Plourin
D3 0
St-Renan
Guipavas
Landerneau
D770
D785
D7 69
BREST
D7
1 D1
64
N165
le Conquet
D1
PlougastelDaoulas Daoulas
N1 65
El Sizun or n
8
D7
D88
Chteaulin
D785
D10 7
N164
Chteauneufdu-Faou
D36
Morgat
Pleyben
Spzet
FINISTERE
N165
Locronan
D7 65
11 12 13
O t de
St-Goazec
Douarnenez
D 76
Coray
Menez Du
Scar
D15
D36
D784
QUIMPER
D7
D785
D76 Bannalec 5
Concarneau
D78 3
D4
83
Rosporden D765
D36
14
N16
Pont-Aven
3 1
49
Br
ittany
48
50
Au
Aven
Camaret-s.-Mer Crozon
D791
Brasparts
D785
D36
re z A n e Brennilis
64
Commana
7 10
D7 64
Berrien D42
Huelgoa
D7
D887
Argol
lne
D1
D2
The coloured numbers on the map correspond to the colour and number at the top of each page.
Trguier la RocheDerrien
Jau
Paimpol
D7
D786
quirec
D7 67
Le
Plestin-les-Grves
Pontrieux
7 D78
di
ff
Trieu x
D11
Bgard
N12
17
Guerlesquin
D42
16
15
Pdernec
D9
Plouha Etables-sur-Mer
D786
D6
Louargat Belle-Isle-en-Terre
2 Bourbriac
Guingamp
N12
D76
D791
D8
D2
23
Duault
D7 87
at
D7 69
76
D D4 ao4 u
D7
Argoat
Glomel
N16 4 Rostrenen
25
D7
D2
D7
68
Sc
4
D79 0
le Faout D782
o rff
Gumen-sur-Scorff
D1
Pontivy
D7 64
D1 7
Gourin
D1
Plouray
D1
90
Laniscat
D35
90
D70
Carhaix
Blavet
D8
Callac
D70
Lohuec
D7
87
MalStPestivien Servais
ST-BRIEUC
D7
N12 Lamballe
D1
D7
D2
Moncontour
D6
D767
D79
D7
D44
D7
68
D7
92
D2
D76
ll
D22
Plouay
D769
D76 8
Bannalec
Bubry
Bla ve t
Quimperl
D78 3
D6 2
Molan-s.-Mer
D16
LORIENT
D768
D778
N1
Larmor-Plage
65
Erdven
D1 7
Theix
Muse de la Prhistoire
Carnac
Baden
Menhir Bris
Gavrinis
Sarzeau Damgan
Quiberon
N1
66
D769
D769
D5
Clgurec
D767
Rohan
D1 7
N an tes
D778 D8
B
st re
D2
D7 64
D3
al an
Inguiniel
D767
N24 Josselin
Inzinzac-Lochrist
6 D2
N24
Baud
Locmin
D1
D4
St-JeanBrvelay Plumelec
Trdion
D767
MORBIHAN
D7 79
va Lan
ux
43
42
D1
21
FOREST OF DUAULT
The Toul an Urz covered alley sits on a hillside right on the edge of the Forest of Duault, near the hamlet of Kerangle. It is not surrounded by trees, which makes it easier to find than the other stones in the forest. Toul an Urz ('le trou de lours' in French) means bear hole, which harks back to the days when wolves and bears roamed the forest. It is hard to tell whether the alley is half in ruins, or purposely built that way. Unusually, one of the three capstones slopes right down to the ground, and is thinner and much larger than the others. Traditionally, girls wanting to find a husband would slide down a sloping stone such as this one.
Directions: On the road from St-Servais to Duault, turn down a small track in the hamlet of Bourg-Neuf, for Kerangle. Near the top of the hill, and shortly before the road finishes, is the covered alley, in a field on the right. Alternatively, there is a splendid sunken pathway which leads to Kerangle from Linglay. See map p. 33.
38
FOREST OF DUAULT
22
Paotr Saout
Locarn
Lokarn
To the south of the Forest of Duault is the more open terrain known as the Landes de Locarn. This picturesque, natural heathland is a haven for wildlife and Nature, with magnificent views and interesting rocky outcrops to explore. Near the hamlet of le Guellec, and just by the carpark which gives access to the heath and the Gorges du Corong, is the fine menhir called Paotr St-Servais Saout. It is known locally as Duault the Guardian of Locarn, and Forest of Duault is featured on all the signGorges du posts in the commune. There P Corong are several other menhirs in menhir le Guellec St-Nicodme the vicinity, including a curiP ously-shaped stone (above), Landes de Locarn Locarn menhir on the path to the Gorges du Corong.
D31
39
23
ARGOAT
Kernescop
le Moulin Quln
Lohuec
Calanhel
1 D1
Plourach
D2
Callac
40
ARGOAT
24
Mal-Pestivien
The area around the village of Mal-Pestivien is littered with standing stones and granite boulders. They fill peoples gardens, rise up in the middle of fields, and in some places line the roadway. The Roch Toul Dolmen is on a hill a few kilometres outside Mal Pestivien. It is signposted from the centre of the village and can be found without too much difficulty. The dolmen is on a bank between two fields, and there is a short path which leads to it from the road. Close by is another, squat stone known as a stele. The two stones are in excellent condition and make for a very satisfactory visit.
Mal-Pestivien
D28
D2
St-Servais
Ker Laurent
Kerien
Coat Hamon
St-Nicodme D20
Kerrolland
41
25
Glomel
ARGOAT
Glomel Menhirs
Grovel
Glomel is home to one of the regions most impressive menhirs - perhaps the third largest in Brittany (below). It is within walking distance of the village, in the aptly-named hamlet le Menhir. The stone is surrounded by trees, and there are picnic benches nearby. Unfortunately, direct access to the menhir itself is, at present, not possible, due to the presence of barbed wire fencing. There is also another, smaller menhir in the wood next to the Chteau of Coat-Couraval (left).
Rostrenen
Ker-Sioul
menhir
Glomel
D5
le Menhir
D8 5
tang du Coronc
Kerblouz
42
ARGOAT
26
Plijidi
Cailouan Menhir
Plsidy
The Cailouan menhir is situated in the heart of Central Brittany, just south of the village of Plsidy, on the D5. It is well signposted and well maintained. The menhir is set in a secluded, grassy area protected from the surrounding farmland by Guingamp banks and trees. There is also Plsidy 67 Bourbriac D7 a spring close by. At around 8 metres (26 ft) high, it is one D22 of Brittanys tallest menhirs, St-Nicolasdu-Plem Quintin although some sources have Magoar mistakenly claimed it to be Trolan Cailouan much larger. menhir
D5
43
27
ARGOAT
Sant-Nikolaz-ar-Pelem
Also known as the Menhir of Coat-Castel, this spectacular stone can be reached by a short walk along a well-trodden path from Rossil, near St-Nicolas-duPlsidy / Bourbriac Rossil Plem. It is in an unspoilt setting amongst oak trees on the edge menhir of the Bois des Tourelles. St-Nicolas-duIt is over 7 metres (23 ft) tall Plem 90 D7 and is said to be the fourth most Corlay / substantial standing stone in Rostrenen Quintin Brittany.
D5
St-Nicolas-du-Plem
Rossil Menhir
44
ARGOAT
28
St-Gilles-Pligeaux Sant-Jili-Plijo
The Kergornec Menhir stands at the top of a hill 280 metres above sea level. It is one of the la Clart tallest menhirs in the region, and D28 commands splendid views over le Vieux-Bourg / Quintin the surrounding countryside. St-GillesThe stone is close to a farm in Pligeaux the hamlet of Kergornec, and is at the end of a steep track. A weathered oak tree is growing close to Corlay the stone, and there are several Kergornec rocky boulders of unknown origin.
D767
Kergornec Menhir
menhir
45
29
VIEUX-BOURG MENHIRS
le Vieux-Bourg
The two Croix de Pasquiou menhirs, near the hamlet of Pasqiou, are just beside the road which leads from SaintGilles to le Vieux-Bourg (formerly the main road from Quintin to Callac). Both the stones are large and rounded, abruptly narrowing to a point. The second of the two is at present topped with a very large stone cross. There are numerous examples in Brittany of such Christianized menhirs, but due to time and weathering, the neolithic monuments are once again regaining their original form.
St-GillesPligeaux
D2 8
Jarnay Pasquiou
le Vieux-Bourg / Quintin
Penfel
46
VIEUX-BOURG MENHIRS
30
Pasquiou
Porzic
St-GillesPligeaux
D2
le VieuxBourg
47
31
VIEUX-BOURG MENHIRS
le Vieux-Bourg
Porzic Menhir
Bourch-Kintin
Just a little further down the road from the Pasquiou Menhir, is the imposing Porzic Menhir. The stone is set back a little way from the road, and is on top of a steep hill. The setting is very striking; there is a fine view over the hilly country surrounding le Vieux-Bourg, and behind the stone is a remarkable collection of enormous granite boulders. It is difficult to know whether or not these stones are of natural origin or whether they reflect some megalith-related activity. Directly below the St-Gildas menhir is Pasquiou the hamlet Kerdalmez of Porzic. Porzic menhir le VieuxSt-GillesPligeaux
D2 8
Bourg
48
VIEUX-BOURG MENHIRS
32
49
33
VIEUX-BOURG MENHIRS
Pont-au-Prtres Menhir
le Vieux-Bourg
Bourch-Kintin
Between le Vieux-Bourg and the hamlet of La Ville Juhel, is the Pont-au-Prtres Menhir. It is in a field but clearly visible from the road. The stone is similar to the other menhirs in the region, but taller, measuring at least 5 metres (16 ft). It seems to be in some Kernanout sort of sequence with the two Tumulus St-Gildas menhirs Stmenhirs near Botudo, and the Connan three taken together go from Botudo largest (Pont-aux-Prtres), Keramel la Ville Juhel medium, smallest - and then Pont-aux-Prtres menhir the tumulus: it is impossible to know for certain what the St-Gilles- D28 significance of this arrangePligeaux D28 ment might have been. le VieuxQuintin
D6 3
Bourg
50
VIEUX-BOURG MENHIRS
34
La Roche Longue
Quintin
Kintin
The Roche Longue stands on a hill outside the picturesque medieval town of Quintin. There is a track which leads to the stone from the lake and small park just beside Quintin. The menhir has a peculiar shape: although tall it is not very wide, and at its base it becomes so narrow that it is hard to imagine how the great weight above is being supported. This menhir is one of the best known and most visited in Brittany. It is in very attractive surroundings.
Cohiniac / N12
D7
Quintin
D28
le VieuxBourg
park
D790 / Corlay
menhir
51
35
52
Liscuis I
35
Liscuis II
There are three alleys in total (Liscuis I, Liscuis II and Liscuis III), all standing in natural heathland. They are in close proximity to each other and arranged in a triangle formation, with a covered alley at each point. Together, they make up one of Brittanys most spectacular sites. Liscuis II is the largest. Although it is almost completely buried beneath the Laniscat D76 ground, it is in excellent Gouarec D44 condition, and visitors can covered alleys climb inside and over it Liscuis Daoulas with ease. Archaeologists Gorge N164 Caurel have suggested that the Bon Repos Nantes/Brest Canal Abbey three covered alleys were built at different times, and that the Neolithic people added to the site over many centuries. There is a spectacular path which leads up the side of the Gorge, along the ridge and round the three monuments.
Liscuis III
Liscuis II
Liscuis I
Liscuis III
53
36
Gouarec
N21 64
Coat Correc
N16 4
Caurel
Botminy
Mr-deBretagne
Lac de Guerldan
54
37
Caurel
St-Mayeux
The fine menhir of Porz Guillo overlooks the hamlet after which it is named. It is tilting to one side, but has not moved in living memory. The menhir is on top of a steep hill, and a little further on is a second stone, called the Menhir of Ty Min.
Corn Coat
Gouarec
N21 64
N16
Mr-deBretagne
Caurel
Botminy
55
38
Menhir du Bourg
St-Mayeux
Sant-Vaeg
St-Mayeux is a small town in the rocky heathland between the Poulancre and Daoulas rivers, close to the famous prehistoric axe factory at Quelfennec. The village is very proud of its heritage, and there are several megaliths in the area. There is one menhir within the limits of the town itself - the Menhir du Bourg - on the rue du Menhir which leads out to St-Gilles-Vieux-March. It is not particularly large, but is attractively situated in a mown field. The menhir is made from rough schist, and is close to the road.
Corlay
D767
la Croix
Laniscat / Gouarecc
SaintMayeux
menhir
D6
St-GillesVieux-March
Mur-deBretagne
D7 67
56
39
57
40
Roch ar Lein
Sant-Vaeg
The most famous menhir of the StMayeux area is named after the hill upon which it stands, Roch ar Lein (Rock of the Summit). It is surrounded by large rocks, and stands today in a conifer plantation. The menhir is easy to find, as it is in the very middle of the path leading up the hillside.
St-Mayeux
Kertanguy
Corlay
le Rohanno
Mein al Has tumulus
D7 67
Roc'h ar Lein
la Croix
Mur-deBretagne
SaintMayeux
58
CLEGUEREC
41
Bot-erMohed
Clgurec
Klegereg
Bot er Mohed lies on the edge of the forest of Quncan, and must once have been a place of some importance: the covered alley is over 18 metres in length, and is made from huge stones. One end is ruined, but the other is still in excellent condition. The monument is in a beautiful setting, in a grassy field, and close to Breuil du Chne (above), the highest point of the forest. The site affords a fine view over the surrounding area. Bot er Mohed means Fairy Grotto in Breton - a common theme in local names for dolmens and covered alleys.
Bot er Mohed
Quncan Forest
Kerdran
Silfiac
D15
St-Aignan
D18
Clgurec
D15
59
42
FOREST OF LANVAUX
Jean Babouin
Trdion
The forest of Lanvaux, near Trdion, north of Vannes, has a peculiar resident: Jean Babouin (below). This unique figure has always been counted as a megalith - even though there are no similar megalithic remains elsewhere. The stone upon which the figure is carved does resemble a menhir, but no one can say for sure to what period the carving itself belongs. There is another stone a few metres away which is known as Jeanne Babouine (above). (Directions opposite page)
60
FOREST OF LANVAUX
43
Trdion
D1
33
Bois de Kerfily
D1
Lerman
Bois de Lanvaux
Elven
61
44
CARNAC STONES
Kerzerho Alignments
Erdven An Ardeven
Carnac, and the surrounding countryside, contains by far the greatest concentration of megalithic remains in Brittany, or, indeed, the world. The region has over half of Brittanys individual menhirs, countless dolmens, and some enormous cairns - but it is the remarkable rows of standing stones that have made it famous. The Kerzerho alignments, in the commune of Erdven, are one of the most rewarding sites to visit in the area. They are less well known than the alignments in Carnac itself, and are not fenced off, allowing visitors to walk amongst the stones at any time of the day or night. The menhirs can be accessed from the ErdvenPlouharnel road, which actually cuts through the Alignment at one end. There is an impressive collection of menhirs on either side of the road, and a little further on, down a path, are another group of much larger stones, known as the Gants de Kerzerho. The top of one of these has been strangely smashed by repeated strokes of lightning. The path continues and leads on to several other megalithic sites in the area. (Directions, page 64)
62
CARNAC STONES
45
Erdven
Ploemel
Ste-Barbe
le Mnec
D1 19
D7 81
Vieux-Moulin
D7
68
Plouharnel
Kermario
D781
Carnac
63
46
CARNAC STONES
Erdeven
Kerzerho
Kerzerho alignment
for
D105
Keredo
St-Sauveur
est
sto
nes
Man Braz
D7 81
Kerberns
Man Groh
P
Crucuno
Plouharnel / Carnac
64
CARNAC STONES
47
Dolmen of Crucuno
Erdven
An Ardeven
The dolmen of Crucuno is another very wellknown Breton megalith; it is amongst the most photographed in the region, and its distinctive shape features on many brochures and books about Brittany. The dolmen is in the centre of the Crucuno hamlet, pressed up against the gable of an old farm building. At one time, the monument was much more extensive and there was a long covered alley leading to the main dolmen. Much of this has been dismantled over the past few centuries, presumably to meet the need for building stone in the village. What remains today is a snug enclosure, covered with one massive capstone high enough for a person to stand without stooping. This megalith, which seems strangely unworldly in its modern setting, has been incorporated into village life in various ways over the past 200 years. (For directions, see facing page.)
65
48
CARNAC STONES
66
CHAMP-DOLENT
49
Champ-Dolent Menhir
Dol-de-Bretagne
Dol
The menhir at Champ-Dolent is another world-famous Breton megalith. At nearly 10m (32 ft) it is close to being the tallest standing stone in the world. (It is generally agreed that this stone is fractionally smaller than the menhir at Kerloas, page 15.) The stone, which is made of pink granite, was brought from a quarry 4km away. At one time it was surmounted by an iron cross - but all trace of this has now disappeared. The small, polished stone at its base has been a companion of the great menhir for as long as anyone can remember. The menhir is within sight of Dol-de-Bretagne, the city founded by Saint Samson and the spiritual capital of Brittany. There are many legends D 4 surrounding this stone. One tells how a battle was once fought here between Dinan two feuding brothers. When the fighting was at its height the menhir sprang up between the two sides, and amazed by the miracle, the armies ceased fighting and made peace.
N176
Dol-deBretagne
D
Avranches
le Champ-Dolent
Combourg
Menhir
Epiniac
67
50
Roche-aux-Fes
Ess
Ezieg
The Roche aux Fes, just south of the city of Rennes, is the largest and most well-preserved dolmen structure in the world today, giving it an historical significance on a par with Stonehenge or the pyramids of Egypt. It is built from enormous pieces of red Cambrian schist, originally excavated from a rock formation 4km from the current site. The stone passage is 20 metres long, and high enough to walk in with ease. Traditionally, lovers would come here at twilight, and proceed round the monument in opposite directions; they would count the stones, and if the numbers they obtained were within two of each other, their marriage would be a happy one. The Roche-aux-Fes is set in well-kept parkland, and surrounded by the last trees of the ancient forest of Rouvray. Janz
Rennes
D99
Ess
41 D3
D9
1 D4
la Couyere
D92
la Roche
Theil-de-Bretagne
68
36
69
MENHIR SIZES
MENHIR SIZES
It is hard to ever give an exact size for a menhir. The ground around the stone can change so dramatically even over the course of a few years, that it would be impossible to give a precise figure. The following heights are mainly based on sizes given by the archaeologist PierreRoland Giot, in the book Bretagne des Megalithes. Otherwise they have been obtained from measurements quoted by Gwenchlan Le Scouezec in Bretagne Megalithique, and from individual reports on the Internet. Babouin (Trdion) 1.42m Botudo, tallest (Vieux Bourg) 4m Caillouan (Plsidy) 8m Champ-Dolent (Dol) 9m Clotre (le) (Huelgoat) 6m Croas an Teurec, tallest (St-Goazec) 2.8m Croix de Pasquiou (Vieux Bourg) 4m Dent de St-Servais 7m Kercoutois Menhir, (St-Servais) 3.7m Glomel (hameau du Menhir) 9m Jumeaux, les (St-Servais) 4.3m & 3m Kerampeulven (Berrien) 5.1m Kergadiou (Plourin) 8.75m Kergornec (St-Gilles) 7m Kerguezennec (Bgard) 6m Kerloas (St-Renan) 9.5m Mein al Has (St-Mayeux) 3.35m Paotr Saout (Locarn) 4.7m Pasquiou (Vieux-Bourg) 3.5m Pedernec 7.5m Pergat (Louargat) 7.5m Pont-aux-Prtres (Vieux-Bourg) 5.2m Porzic (Vieux-Bourg) 6m Roch ar Lein (St-Mayeux) 4.35m Roche Longue (Quintin) 7m Rossil (St-Nicolas-du-Pelem) 7m St-Jean (Scar) 7m Trimen (St-Goazec) 4.1m Wedding Party, tallest (Brasparts) 1.6m
19m 18m 17m 16m 15m 14m 13m 12m 11m 10m 9m 8m 7m 6m 5m 4m 3m 2m 1m
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GLOSSARY
Glossary
Breton - English
leski (lescan) burning lok (loc) hermitage maen, mein stone(s) maen - hir (menhir) long stone mane (man) hill, mound marv (mario) dead meineg (menec) stony place menez montain meur great mor sea paotr-saout cowherd park (parc) field penn (pen) headland peulvan (peulven) stone, menhir plou parish porzh (pors) farmyard roch rock taol (dol) table, flat taol-maen (dolmen) table stone ti (ty) house toull (toul) hole tri three
an the ar the arzh (urz) bear bihan little bras (braz) big du black enez island eured wedding gavr (gavre) goat gwazh (goaz) stream gwrach (groh) sorceress hent road hir long karn cairn, tumulus kastell (kastel) castle kazh (has) cat kr (ker) village koad (choat, coat, coet, goat, koat) forest korrigan pixie kroaz (croaz) cross lein height
MuSEuMS:
More Information
Muse de Prhistoire, 10 Place de la Chapelle, CARNAC. A unique collection of megalithic jewellery, tools, and artifacts. The museum is dedicated to the two great archaeologists - James Miln and Zacharie Le Rouzic, whose finds and research form the core of the museums exhibits. Closed Tuesdays. Tel: 02 97 52 22 04. www.museedecarnac.com Muse dHistoire et dArchologie de Vannes, 2, Rue No 56000 VANNES. A fascinating collection of exhibits mainly from the Morbihan megalithic monuments. Tel: 02 97 01 63 00 The Internet makes an ideal forum for people to exchange photos and information about otherwise little-known megalithic sites. There are numerous websites about Brittanys stones - with more coming on-line all the time. A selection has been included below. www.megalithes-breton.fr Breton megalith site, in French. www.montcocher.com This site features some of the stones near Carnac, and southern Brittany. www.megalithic.co.uk The megalithic portal - information and maps for Europes megaliths. www.shadowsandstone.com A photographic guide to the megaliths of Ireland and elsewhere. La Bretagne des Mgalithes, Pierre-Roland Giot. ditions Ouest France. Excellent French guide to almost every one of Brittanys menhirs and dolmens. Megalithic Brittany, Aubrey Burl. Thames and Hudson, London. The first English guide to Brittanys megalithic stones. Unfortunately, now out of print. Traditional Fairy Stories of Brittany, Bethan Lewis. A collection of twenty-seven traditional Breton fairy stories. www.nezertbooks.net. Published 2007.
Menhirs and other Megaliths of Central Brittany
WEBSITES:
BOOKS:
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INDEX
Index
alignments 8; Lagatjar 18; Lostmarch 19; Wedding Party 20; Croaz-an-Teurec 27; Guingamp area 32; Vieux-Bourg 49, 50; Kerzerho 62-64; Carnac 66 alle couvert see covered alleys Argoat 40-45 Babouin 60 Barnenez, cairn 17 bears 38 Beffou, forest 40 Bgard 30 Berrien 23 Botudo, menhirs 49, 50 Bot-er-Mohed 59 Brasparts 20 Brennilis 25 Brest 15 Breton, place names 12; glossary 71 Breuil du Chne 59 Cailouan Menhir 43 Cairn 8; Barnenez 17 Camaret-sur-Mer 18 Carnac 10, 11, 62-66 Carnac Alignments 66 carvings 6, 24 Castel-Rufel 28 Caurel 54, 55 Champ-Dolent Menhir 67 Christianized menhirs 10, 11, 46, 54, 67 Clgurec 59 Coat-Couraval, Chateau 42 Cot-Correc, covered alley 54 Commana 24 covered alleys 7, 8; MougauBihan 24; Ty ar Boudiged 25; Castel-Rufel 28; Toul an urz 38; Kernescop 40; Liscuis 52-53; CotCorrec 54; Bot-er-Mohed 59; Loge aux Loups 61; Man Braz 64; Man Groh 64; Roche-aux-Fes 68-69 Croaz an Teurec Alignment 27 Croix de Pasquiou Menhirs 46 Crozon 19; peninsular 18, 19 Crucuno, dolmen 65 Daoulas and Poulancre 52-59 Daoulas Gorge 52-53 Dent de Saint-Servais 35 Dol-de-Bretagne 67, 70 Dolmen 8, Mougau-Bihan 24; Ty ar Boudiged 25; Castel-Rufel 28; Toul an urz 38; Kernescop 40; Roch Toul 41; Pasquiou 47; Liscuis 52-53; CotCorrec 54; Bot-er-Mohed 59; Loge aux Loups 61; Man Braz 64; Man Groh 64; Crucuno 65; Rocheaux-Fes 68-69 Duault 38 Duault, forest 33-35, 38-39 Erdven 62, 63, 64, 65 Ess 68 fairies 9, 25 fertility rites 9, 15, 23 Finistre 14 - 19 folklore 9 Forest of Beffou 40 Forest of Duault 33-35, 38-39 Forest of Lanvaux 60-61 Gavrinis 6 giants 9, 24, 28, 35 Glomel menhirs 42, 70 Gorges du Corong 33, 39 Gouarec 52 Grand Menhir Bris 9 Guardian of Locarn 39 Guingamp area 30-32 Huelgoat 22, 23 Jean Babouin 60 jewellery 10 Jumeaux, les 34 Kerampeulven Menhir 23 Kercoutois forest Menhir 33 Kergadiou Menhirs 15 Kergornec Menhir 45 Kerguezennec Menhir 30, 32 Kerloas Menhir 14-15, 70 Kernescop, covered alley 40 Kerzerho Alignments 62, 63, 64 Lagatjar Alignments 18 Landes de Locarn 39 Laniscat 52-53 Lanvaux, forest 60-61 Le Clotre, menhir 22 Les Jumeax 34 Liscuis, covered alleys 52 Locarn 39 Locmariaquer 9 Loge aux Loups 61 Lohuec 40 Lostmarch, alignment 19 Louargat 32 Mal-Pestivien 41 Man Braz 64 Man Groh 64 map, Brittany 36-37 megaliths, around the world 7 Mein al Has Menhir 57 Menez Arez 20-25 Menez Br 31 Menez Du 26-29 menhirs 8; Western Finistre 14-19; Menez Arez 20-25; Menez Du 26-29; Guingamp Area 30-32; Forest of Duault 33-39; Argoat 40-45; VieuxBourg 46-51; Daoulas & Poulancre 52-59; Forest of Lanvaux 60-61; Carnac Stones 62-66 Menhir du Bourg, St-Mayeux 56 Montagnes Noires 26-29 Monts dAre 20-25 Morgat 19 Morlaix 17 Mougau-Bihan 24 Noce de Pierres 20 Paotr Saout 39 Pasquiou, menhir 47 passage grave see covered alleys Pedernec Menhir 31, 32 Pergat Menhir 32 Plsidy 43 Plouezoch 17 Plourin 16 Pont-aux-Prtres Menhir 50 Porz Guillo Menhir 55 Poulancre 56 Quncan Forest 59 Quintin 51 Rennes 68 Roch ar Lein 57, 58; menhir 58 Roch Toul Dolmen 41 Roche Longue, la 51 Roche-aux-Fes 68-69 Rossil Menhir 44 Saint-Gilles-Pligeaux 45 Saint-Goazec 26, 27, 28 Saint-Jean Menhir 28, 29 Saint-Mayeux 56-58 Saint-Nicolas-du-Plem 44 Saint-Renan 15 Saint-Servais 33, 34, 35 Scar 29 sea 16, 17, 18, 19 Solstice, Summer 29 tallest menhir 15, 70 Tombeau du Gaulois 57 Toul an urz 38 Trdion 60, 70 Trimen Menhir 26 tumulus 8, Botudo 49; St-Mayeux 57 Twin Menhirs 34 Ty ar Boudiged 25 Ty Min Menhir 55 Vieux-Bourg Menhirs 46-51 Wedding Party Alignment 20 Western Finistre 14-19
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Brittanys Megaliths
Classified by Region
Western Finistere
well-formed menhirs. 1 - 5
A wild area of heath and moorland containing many unspoilt megalithic sites. 6 - 10 Many smaller stones and unusual alignments have survived in this area, perhaps because of its relative remoteness in historical times. 11 - 14 The rich farmland around Guingamp is home to three unusually-tall menhirs, aligned with each other though several miles apart. 15 - 17
GUinGAMP AreA
The largest collection of menhirs in Central Brittany is clustered around the Forest of Duault. 18 - 22 The Land of Woods, the traditional name for Central Brittany, is dotted with stones, many of which are virtually unknown to the outside world. 23 - 28
VieUX-BOUrG MenHirs
A small commune in which an unusual number of menhirs have survived. 29 - 34 The high ground between these two rivers is home to some of the most important megalithic sites in Brittany. 35 - 41 Vannes is one of the ancient centres of Breton culture, and the megaliths in the forest to the north of the city have been well documented over the centuries. 42 - 43
Carnac is home to the most extensive collection of megaliths in the world, comprising thousands of standing stones in intricate alignments, dolmens, cairns, covered alleys, and single menhirs. 44 - 48
Types of Megalith
Alignment: Standing stones arranged in lines. Dolmen: Table stone, huge stones arranged in a table shape. Menhir: Single stone, often tapering towards the top, sometimes exceptionally tall. Covered Alley: Series of dolmens arranged to form a covered passageway. Cairn: Stones piled up over dolmens or covered alleys.
Brittany is home to the majority of the worlds most significant megalithic sites - including the worlds tallest menhirs, the worlds largest dolmen, the worlds largest collection of standing stones, and the worlds largest cairn. This full-colour guide includes: detailed information on over 50 megalithic sites easy-to-use maps and directions history and folklore associated with the megaliths a summary of what is known about the megalithic civilisation
26 feet
Champ-Dolent Menhir
30 feet
St-Jean Menhir
Liscuis
23 feet
A tour of Brittanys megaliths gives a unique insight into an ancient civilisation about which we know virtually nothing. A once-in-a-lifetime experience, never to be forgotten.
4.50