Sewing Machine Control

UNIT 1 SEWING MACHINE CONTROL

Structure
1.1 Introduction
Objectives

1.2 Identification of Machine Parts

1.3 Good Working Habits
1.4 Safety Measures
1.5 Bench Layouts
1.6 Needle Changing
1.7 Bobbin Thread Rewinding
1.8 Threading the Machine
1.9 Stitch Length Regulation
1.10 Pressure Regulation
1.11 Basic Machine Maintenance
1.12 Pre-checks during Stitching
1.13 Summary
1.14 Key words

1.1 INTRODUCTION
Sewing machine control is the basic necessity and important part for stitching by
machine. Operator should learn to stitch at various machine speeds and be able to
negotiate stitching of components at various curves and edges. The operator should learn
to operate the machine with foot paddle control and by activating it in various ways;
needle can be positioned accordingly during stitching.
The tasks of the sewing machine operator are to
• Activate and adjust machine controls to regulate stitching speed and length.
• Adjust the thread tension.
• Activate sewing machine to join, reinforce, or decorate materials.
• Position materials through feed rollers and guides, or positions and
maneuvers under sewing machine presser foot and needle during operation.
• Examine the finished articles to verify conformance to standards.
• Place spools of thread, cord, or other materials on spindles, inserts bobbin,
and thread ends through machine guides and components.
• Record amount of materials processed in production batch.
• Remove finished materials from sewing machine.
• Position and mark patterns on materials to prepare for sewing.
• Replace needles, sands rough areas of needles with sandpaper, and cleans
and oils sewing machines to maintain equipment.
• Select supplies, such as binding, cord, or thread, according to specifications
or colour of material.
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Practical in Shoe • Mount attachments, such as lining trimmer, thread trimmer, and adjusts
Upper Stitching machine guides according to specifications.
• Monitor machine operation to detect problems, such as defective stitching,
breaks in thread, or machine malfunction.
• Fold or fit together materials to prepare for machine sewing
The tools required for stitching shoe upper in closing section are :
• Small Screwdriver (Small and Narrow Tip) : For removing and replacing
needles in the m/c and for small screws, e.g. Gibb screws.
• Large Screwdriver (Wide Tip) : Unscrew and tightening the large screws
in machine.
• Long Screwdriver : For unscrew and tightening screws in hard to get
position on various parts of machines.
• Scissors : For cutting thread of work when finished and for trimming all
loose threads away from work.
• Knee Press Tool : For loosening knee press nut on the machine so as to
adjust the knee press to suit any individual.
• L/Hexagonal Keys : Unscrew and tightening screw (angle corners).
• Silver Marketing Pen : Marking the work before required operation.
• Maintenance Kit
(i) Brush : For cleaning stuff and material build-up.
(ii) Oil Container : Oiling the moveable parts of machine.
(iii) Kerosene Container : Kerosene oil will use against the rusted bolts to
unscrew.
• Dressing Tool : Cleaning the sharpening stone in the skiving machine.
• Folding Hammer : Helps in folding edges.
• Punches : Making perforation in the components in order to fix eyeleting.
• Spreaders : For spreading out the edge of the eyelets, fixing them properly
on the material.
• Poly Propylene Board : For punching work base.
• Work Stone : For hammering, folding and fitting work.
• Adhesive Container : To keep adhesive.
• Adhesive Application Brushes : For applying brushes.
Required Knowledge for Sewing Machine Operators
Mechanical
Knowledge of machines and tools, including their designs, uses, repair,
maintenance and machine parts and functions.
Production and Processing
Knowledge of raw materials, production processes, quality control, costs,
and other techniques for maximizing the effective manufacture and
distribution of goods.
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 Sewing Machine Control
Abilities Required for Sewing Machine Operators
Manual Dexterity
The ability to quickly move your hand, your hand together with your arm, or
your two hands to grasp, manipulate, or assemble components.
Arm-Hand Steadiness
The ability to keep your hand and arm steady while moving your arm or
while holding your arm and hand in one position.
Visualization
The ability to imagine how something will look after it is moved around or
when its parts are moved or rearranged.
Finger Dexterity
The ability to make precisely coordinated movements of the fingers of one
or both hands to grasp, manipulate, or assemble very small objects.
Near Vision
The ability to see details at close range (within a few feet of the observer).
Control Precision
The ability to quickly and repeatedly adjust the controls of a machine to
exact positions.
Visual Color Discrimination
The ability to match or detect differences between colours, including shades
of color and brightness.
Wrist-Finger Speed
The ability to make fast, simple, repeated movements of the fingers, hands,
and wrists.
Problem Sensitivity
The ability to tell when something is wrong or is likely to go wrong. It does
not involve solving the problem, only recognizing there is a problem.
Objectives
After studying this unit, you should be able to
• identify machine parts,
• thread the machine,
• make necessary adjustment for stitching,
• control the machine,
• stitch on straight, curved and overlapped components and understand quality
standards,
• do fault analysis and take corrective action, and
• learn preventive machine maintenance.

1.2 IDENTIFICATION OF MACHINE PARTS

Parts Below the Table
• Machine On/Off switch : It helps to connect and disconnect the power from
main pannel to motor.
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Practical in Shoe • Treadle/Paddle : It works, as an accelerator, like depressing front part of the
Upper Stitching treadle will start and depressing back part will stop the machine.
• Leg/Stand : Holds the machine in vertical position and allows height
adjustment accordingly.
• Motor : It generates the required power according to the machine speed
(stitching speed).
• Pulley/Transmission Belt : Transfers the power to balance wheel via
V- belt.
• Pitman Rod : Connects the treadle with the clutch for necessary action.
• Knee Press : It releases tension disc and raises pressure roller
simultaneously.
• Drip Tray : It collects excess oil and dust of materials (leather, thread, etc.).
Part Above the Table
• Balance wheel/Hand Wheel : It transmits power through V- belt to the
mechanism. It controls take-up lever. Always turn it towards you.
• Bobbin Winder : For winding the bobbin.
• Bobbin Winding Assembly : Helps in re- winding the bobbin.
• Check Spring : Tightens the lock finally during stitch formation.
• Faceplate : Covers all side shafts like needle bar, pressure roller bar for
safety and maintenance purpose.
• Feed Dog : Feed dogs feed the material while the machine sews. It is
situated under the pressure foot or roller, which provides adequate grip to
the material during stitching.
• Light : Pours light on sewing area.
• Machine Arm : Provides space for the material – larger components during
stitching.
• Machine Head : It consists/bear entire top mechanism.
• Motor Belt : It activates machine.
• Needle Bar V-belt : It has provision to insert the needle and has space for
fixing the needle screw. Sometimes it also accommodates a needle thread
guide near its lower portion. It holds the needle and drives needle into the
material for stitch formation.
• Needle Hole : It allows updown movement of needle to pierce the material
during stitch. It is situated in needle/throat plate.
• Needle Plate Screws : To hold the needle plate in its required position.
• Needle Thread Guide : It is a guide at the tip of the needle bar.
• Pressure Roller : It helps to hold and feed the material from top side.
• Pressure Roller Lifter : It is used to lift the pressure roller manually.
• Pressure Regulator : It controls the pressure of presser foot cover the
material during stitching.
• Shuttle/Hook : It picks up the top thread from the needle with the help of the
hook point and enlarges it.
• Stitch Length Regulator : It helps to adjust stitch length accordingly.
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 Sewing Machine Control
• Table Top : It provides place for the machine head, bobbin winder, thread
stand, inching scale, rubber pads and machine rest. It provides space for the
material to be stitched.
• Take Up Lever : It controls the thread for stitch formation, i.e. the enlarged
slack of thread by the hook point is taken back by the take up lever.
• Tension Disc : It is used to adjust the top tension for a good stitch formation
according to the material type.
• Thread Cutter : Slot on back of bar cuts thread easily and safely.
• Thread Guide : It straighten the thread coming from spool and give direction
to the thread towards the needle.
• Thread Stand : It keeps thread cones for top threading and bobbin winding.
• Throat Plate : Also called needle plate, covers the area that holds the
bobbin. It has an opening for the needle to pass through, as well as lines that
serve as sewing guides. The needle may be a single hole, used for straight
stitching, or an oblong hole, which allows the needle to make stitches that
have width (such as zig-zag stitches). It also provides space for bottom feed
assembly.
SAQ 1
(a) Explain machine parts above the table.
(b) Explain machine parts below the table.

1.3 GOOD WORKING HABITS

• Good sitting posture.
• Cleaning of work place.
• Switch of the machine when not in use.
• Regular oiling of the machine.
• Release the power of machine after it has been switch off (without thread).
However, if thread is being used, remove the thread from the needle and
then release the power of machine.
• Cover the machine after finishing the work.
• Put a piece of material under the pressure roller after finishing the work.
• Use both the hands to pick up the components simultaneously.
• Full concentration on the work.
• All tools to be properly placed.
• Check the machine against any breakdown before starting the work.

1.4 SAFETY MEASURES

For the Safety of the Operator
• Wear approved footwear and clothing within the workshop.
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Practical in Shoe • Wear a hair band or tie your hair back in case of hair longer than shoulder
Upper Stitching length.
• Avoid wearing loose clothing.
• Operating position.
• Sit squarely on your chair within reach of the material and m/c controls.
• Your thighs should be parallel to the floor when seated.
• Keep your fingers away from the needle.
• One operator on a machine.
• In case of an accident, no matter how minor, report it to your supervisor.
• Know your fire drill.
• Do not try to make your own electrical repairs.
• Do not push the work through your hands, let the machine feed the work.
For the Safety of the Machine
• Cleaning, proper oiling and covering of the machine.
• Thorough knowledge of machine prior to operating them.
• Instruction to be properly followed.
• After finishing off with the work, raise the pressure roller or put a piece of
material beneath it.
• No release of power from the m/c without first removing the thread from the
needle.
• Bobbin case base latch to be properly closed before closing of cover plate.
• Check for any looseness in the screws holding the throat plate, gibb screws,
etc.
• Ensure that proper threading and needle insertion has been done.

1.5 BENCH LAYOUTS

(i) Keep work within your arm’s reach.
• With arms straight, men have an average reach of 46 cm.
• With arms straight, women have an average reach of 43 cm.
• With elbows bent, women have an average reach of 27 cm.
• With elbows bent, women have an average reach of 27 cm.
(ii) Keep the work within your reach on the bench.
(iii) Have your workstation adjusted to prevent reaching to the floor.
(iv) Keep your tools in fixed location.
• Inside the arm or under the balance wheel.
• Between the head and the bobbin winder.
(v) Wind bobbin during working.
(vi) Inspect your work while cutting thread and trimming.
(vii) Pick up the components simultaneously during working/stitching.
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 Sewing Machine Control
(viii) Keep both hands on the work. (Avoid keeping one hand on the balance
wheel.)
(ix) Stack components in the position they would be stitched. This avoids
turning the work around.
SAQ 2
(a) Explain good working habits while stitching.
(b) Explain safety points for operator during stitching.
(c) Explain bench layout during stitching.

1.6 NEEDLE CHANGING

When inserting a new needle :
• Raise the needle bar to its highest position.
• Hold the needle with the clearance cut side facing towards the hook.
• Loosen the needle clamp screw sufficiently to allow the new needle to be
fully inserted.
• Insert the shank of the needle as far as it will go.
• Tighten the needle clamp screw.
• Before sewing, check the needle by turning the hand wheel one complete
rotation and to make sure the needle is securely in place and does not hit
against anything. This is particularly true when using and selecting a stitch
for twin needles.

1.7 BOBBIN THREAD REWINDING

For most machines, the thread must be taken out of the needle in order to wind the
bobbin. There is normally a bobbin holder on head of the machine or a separate bobbin
winding assembly is there. The thread runs from the spool through a sequence of guides
etc. that are specific to the type of machine.
• Place empty bobbin on bobbin-winder spindle.
• Press bobbin winder down against motor belt.
• Place spool of thread on spool pin.
• Thread bobbin winder and bobbin.
• Hold thread end and start machine.
• When bobbin is full, stop machine.
• Cut thread.
• Lift bobbin winder away from belt and remove bobbin.
• After the bobbin is wound, the machine is re-threaded, the needle is engaged
and the bobbin is placed in its area under the throat plate.
• Once the bobbin is in place and the machine is threaded, gently turn the
wheel of the machine while holding the needle thread off to the side (it 11
Practical in Shoe should go from the needle under the presser foot and off to the side). This
Upper Stitching will bring down the needle. The needle will pass down through the throat
plate and the needle thread will catch the bobbin thread and pull it up
through the throat plate when it comes back up again.
If Thread Does Not Wind Evenly on Bobbin
• Loosen screw that holds bobbin-winding thread guide on bed of machine.
• Move thread guide to left if thread winds high on right of bobbin.
• Move thread guide to right if thread winds high on left of bobbin.
• Tighten thread guide screw.

SAQ 3
(a) Explain process for bobbin rewinding.
(b) Explain quality checks to be kept in mind during bobbin rewinding.

1.8 THREADING THE MACHINE

1.8.1 Top Threading

Machines vary as to how exactly they are threaded, but all have certain common features.
The thread runs from the spool holder, through a tension device and down through the
needle. The tension device controls the tension on the thread. It consists of a groove that
the thread slides through. The mechanism for setting the tension may be a dial or buttons
(computerized machines).
The thread runs from the tension device, down to the needle area. There are usually small
grooves in the arm that holds the needle, for the thread to pass through. This holds the
thread close to the needle arm. The thread then runs down to and through the eye of the
needle.
During threading, make sure that the presser foot is raised and the needle is in the highest
position. If the presser foot is lowered the tension discs will be closed. Make sure the
thread is placed between the tension discs. Occasionally when we are in a hurry or not
really paying attention we inadvertently place the thread next to the tension discs instead
of making sure it is firmly seating between them.
To Thread the Machine
• Turn hand wheel toward you to raise take-up lever to its highest position.
• Place spool of thread on spool pin.
• Lead thread through the top-threading guide just above the thread spool on
the thread stand. The distance between the thread guide and thread spool
must be at least twice the length of the spool, from the top of the spool being
used.
• Now lead the thread through the thread guides from top to bottom on the
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machine head.
 Sewing Machine Control

• Press the knee press and pass the thread through the tension assembly and
over the check spring.
• Lead the thread through the take up lever from right to left.
• Pass the thread from top to bottom through the thread guides near faceplate.
• Press knee press and lift the pressure roller out towards left side.
• Then pass the thread through the thread guide on needle bar.
• Thread through the needle eye from left to right.
• Draw about 3 inches of thread through the needle.
• Press knee press and pull the pressure roller down to original position.
1.8.2 Bottom Threading
• Ensure machine is switched off.
• Take a full bobbin and insert it in bobbin case as far as it will go.

• Make sure thread comes out of the bobbin in clockwise direction.

• Pull the thread through the case and under the tension spring on the case.
• Allow about 3 inches of thread to hang free from bobbin case.
• Place the bobbin case into the machine with the bar of the case in the slot of
the shuttle.
• Press on the bobbin case until you hear or feel it click into position.
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Practical in Shoe • Hold top thread in left hand.
Upper Stitching
• Now turn the balance wheel towards yourself by right hand, until bottom
thread loop comes out through throat plate.
• Now grip the loop and pull the bottom thread through throat plate.
• Pull about 10 cm of thread and place it on machine bed.
To Replace the Bobbin Case
• Hold bobbin case by latch, with thread leading off top of case.
• Slide case on to stud as far as it will go.
• Release latch, and allow about 3 inches of thread to hang free from bobbin
case.
1.8.3 Tension Adjustment
Tension refers to the force that is applied by the machine on your thread. You can also
effect tension by the amount of pull or push you apply to the material as you feed it
through under the needle – you should not apply force. Instead, just use your hands to
guide the material through. Let the feed dogs actually feed the material through.

There are two areas in which you can adjust tension. The upper thread (needle
thread-coming from the spool) and the bobbin thread each have tension.
Too little tension can cause weak seams, which can be pulled apart easily and final seam
will loose. Adjust to a higher tension. Too much tension causes a seam puckering due to
high stress and pressure on thread. Rectify it by lowering the related tension assemblies.

When both threads have an even amount of tension, a smooth, “balanced” stitch is
produced. The needle and bobbin threads are locked between the two layers of material
with no loops on top or bottom and no puckers.
• The lockstitch should be formed at the center of the material thickness.

Proper Stitch Balance

• The lock should not be formed at the top or bottom of the material surface.

Poor Stitch Balance - Too Loose

Needle Thread Tension
This is the most likely place to find a problem. Generally the tension ranges from
low to high in number, with high being the tightest.
The numbers on the dial represent the degree of tension on the needle thread. The
higher the number, the tighter the thread.

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 Sewing Machine Control
Correct needle-thread tension is important because too tight a thread will cause
material to pucker. Too loose a thread, on the other hand, will produce slack
stitches and weak seams.

A B C

A = Needle-thread tension too tight – correct by setting dial to lower number

B = Needle-thread tension too loose – correct by setting dial to higher number.
C = A perfectly locked stitch results with upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and
bobbin threads are drawn equally into fabric.

Bobbin Tension
With some machines, a screw is present which controls the bobbin tension.

Bobbin-thread tension too Bobbin-thread tension too

tight – correct by turning screw loose – correct by turning screw
counter-clockwise. counter-clockwise.

Making Adjustments
Before you start adjusting your tension, make these three checks. This is very
important.
(i) Be certain your machine is threaded properly. Even long time sewers can
miss a thread guide.
(ii) Be sure your bobbin is properly installed.
(iii) Make sure your needle is inserted properly.

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Practical in Shoe After going through the three checks, you may have to adjust the tension in order
Upper Stitching to sew a good stitch. Each time you have adjusted, sew a line of stitching. You
should only have to make small, slight adjustments to correct your stitch.
SAQ 4
(a) Explain top threading.
(b) Explain bottom threading.
(c) What do you mean by thread tension during stitching?

1.9 STITCH LENGTH REGULATION

The numbers on either side of the lever represent the approximate number of stitches per
inch. The higher the number, the shorter the stitch. In general, lightweight materials
require short stitches (a high number setting) and heavyweight materials require longer
ones (a low number setting). But this mechanism is not same for all machine models.
To Set Stitch Length
• Loosen thumbnut by turning it to the left.
• Move lever to desired stitch length setting.
• Tighten thumbnut by turning it to the right until it touches the numbered
indicator plate.

Thumb
Nut

1.10 PRESSURE REGULATION

• To increase pressure, turn thumbscrew in clockwise direction.
• To decrease pressure, turn screw in anti-clockwise direction.
• This screw regulates the degree of pressure that the presser foot exerts on
the material.
• Pressure should be heavy enough to prevent the material from slipping
sideways and light enough to carry the material without marking it.
• In general, heavy materials require heavier pressure than lightweight
materials. But surface finish and material texture must also be considered :
crisp fabrics, for example, require more pressure than soft fabrics.
SAQ 5
16 (a) Explain the methods of needle fixing into the sewing machine.
 Sewing Machine Control
(b) Describe the need of stitch regulation.
(c) Describe the need of pressure regulation.

1.11 BASIC MACHINE MAINTENANCE

How to Take Care
How often you will need to clean, oil and lubricate your machine will depend on
how often you use it and where you keep it. The following general guidelines
assume that you will be sewing two or three times a week. If you use the machine
continuously, clean and oil it daily. Or, if you keep it in a very warm or damp
place, oil and lubricate it more frequently then the following guidelines are
suggested.

Cleaning and Oiling Parts

The Motor Requires No Lubrication

Every Week or So
Remove fluff from working parts. As a matter of fact, you will be able to see the
fluff on these parts, and we recommend that you remove them as they accumulate.
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With a Soft Cloth, Clean
Practical in Shoe • Between tension discs.
Upper Stitching
• Area around needle and presser foot
• Take-up lever and thread guides
• Bobbin case.
With a Soft Brush, Clean
• Bobbin-case area.
• Feed dog. (Remove throat plate first).
[Caution : Make certain, when replacing throat plate that position finger of bobbin-case
base enters notch of position plate attached to underside of throat plate, as
shown below.]
Notch

Position
Finger

After cleaning the bobbin-case area, apply a drop of oil,

Every Few Months
Clean and Oil the Parts behind the Faceplate
• To remove faceplate, turn hand wheel until take-up lever reaches its
highest point.
• The remove faceplate thumbscrew, raise faceplate and carefully pass
it toward you over end of take-up lever.
• Brush fluff away and apply a drop of oil to each spot indicated.
Clean and Oil the Top and Back of the Machine

Every Six Months

Clean and Oil the Underside of the Machine
• Remove screw and cover plate from underside of machine.
• Apply oil to spots indicated.
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 Sewing Machine Control
• Replace bottom cover.

Disconnect Plug from Electricity Supply Before Removing Bottom Cover

If the Machine is to be Stored
• Brush away all traces of fluff.
• Clean all exposed parts with a soft, fluff-free brush saturated with oil
to protect against rust damage.
• Swab parts behind faceplate with oil.

SAQ 6
(a) Explain pre-checks required during stitching.
(b) Describe basic sewing machine maintenance.

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Practical in Shoe
Upper Stitching
1.12 PRE-CHECKS DURING STITCHING
• Clean the machine.
• Run the machine for little while so that the excess oil will automatically
drops down from the needle bar and book assembly.
• Check all the basic operations.
• Check for the necessary tool and necessary guide.
• Checks stitching on waste material against lock formation, proper thread
tension and stitch length etc.
• Start stitching on work material by inspecting the requirements.
• After the finishing the work clean and oil the machine.

1.13 SUMMARY
In this unit, you have learned about the job and abilities for sewing machine operator.
The operator should learn to control the machine at various speed.
To stitch properly he must
• Activate and adjust the machine to sew various components.
• Oil the machine parts.
• Identify the various machine parts.
• Know the safety procedures required while stitching.
• Know the bench layout for ease in working.
• Be able to examine the finished product with conformance standards.
• Identify the faults and able to do the necessary corrections.

1.14 KEW WORDS

Bobbin : A bobbin is a small metal spindle that is inserted
into the hook of lockstitch sewing machines.
Sewing machine bobbins can be wound at the
sewing operators workstation or pre-wound
bobbins can be purchased. When ordering
pre-wound bobbins, the following information is
required : Thread type and size, colour, bobbin
style.
Thread Tension : Pressure applied by the tension disc on the top
thread and by bobbin tension spring on the bottom
thread.
SPI : Stitches per inch.

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