Cosmetic Formulations:
An Advanced Guide Book
Contents
Chapter 1: Investigate and evaluate cosmetic ingredients 4
Chapter 2: Cosmetic ingredient and formula safety 65
Chapter 3: Compliance requirements of cosmetic ingredients 83
Chapter 4: Chemistry principles to select cosmetic ingredients 124
Chapter 5: Select preservatives for personal care formulas 192
Chapter 6: Select rheology modifiers for personal care formulas 244
Chapter 7: Select lipids for personal care formulas 324
Chapter 8: Fragrance or essential oil for personal care 378
formulation
Chapter 9: Emulsifiers for personal care formulas 399
Chapter 10: Surfactants for personal care formulas 467
Chapter 11: Prepare skin care formulas 549
Chapter 12: Prepare hair care formulas 615
Chapter 13: Formulation development 655
Appendix A: Basic formulary 686
Appendix B: Formulation template 709
Glossary 710
Chapter 1: Investigate and evaluate cosmetic ingredients
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Table of Contents
Chapter 1: Investigate and evaluate cosmetic ingredients
Item Page
1. Ingredients in cosmetic products 6
1.1 Basic ingredient functions 6
1.2 Determining ingredient functions 12
1.3 INCI names and CAS numbers 16
1.4 Sourcing raw materials and information 18
2. Company philosophy 21
3. Natural vs. synthetic ingredients 28
3.1 Organic ingredients 28
3.2 Certified Organic ingredients 29
3.3 Natural ingredients 30
3.4 Derived from natural 31
3.5 Nature identical ingredients 33
3.6 Synthetic ingredients 33
3.7 Determining natural/synthetic status 34
3.8 Manufacturer’s flowcharts 37
4. Ingredient composition 41
4.1 Certificates of Analysis (CofAs) 42
4.2 Calculation composition 43
Appendix A: Answers to Activities 48
Appendix B: Manufacturers flow chart for Lanette O 54
Appendix C: CofA for Myritol 318 55
Appendix D: Manufacturers flow chart for alkyl polyglycosides 59
Appendix E: Product information for Genapol LRO Paste 60
Appendix F: CofA for Hostapon SCI85 61
Appendix G: Data sheet for Genapol LRO Liquid 63
Appendix H: Flow chart for Genagen CAB 818 64
References and Additional Reading:
Barel, Andre; Paye, Marc; and Maibach, Howard, 2014. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and
Technology, 4th Edition. CRC Press: New York.
Nikitakis, J; Lange, B, eds. 2016. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook
16th Edition. Personal Care Products Council: Washington.
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Chapter 2: Cosmetic ingredient and formula safety
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Table of Contents
Chapter 2: Cosmetic ingredient and formula safety
Item Page
1. Safety evaluation and regulation 67
1.1 The safety of cosmetic and personal care products 67
1.2 The need for companies to evaluate 67
1.3 Safety considerations 68
2. Irritants and allergens in cosmetic products 72
2.1 Irritants and irritant reactions 72
2.2 Allergens and allergic reactions 77
2.3 Pregnancy and essential oils 81
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Chapter 3: Compliance requirements of cosmetic ingredients
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Table of Contents
Chapter 3: Cosmetic requirements of cosmetic ingredients
Item Page
1. Cosmetic products 85
2. Ingredient lists 87
3. Australian compliance overview 92
3.1 Cosmetic ingredient compliance 93
4. Overview of European, Japanese and US requirements 111
4.1 Overview of European Union regulations 114
4.2 Overview of Japanese regulations 121
4.3 Overview of US regulations 121
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Version Number 3.2 2021 Page 84 of 712
Chapter 4: Chemistry principles to select cosmetic ingredients
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Table of Contents
Chapter 4: Chemistry principles to select cosmetic ingredients
Item Page
1. Structures of chemicals in cosmetic science 126
1.1 Specific functional groups 126
1.2 Physical properties relative to functional groups 135
2. Surfactants 138
2.1 Surfactant charge 142
2.2 Different emulsifiers and emulsion types 146
3. Processing Methods 150
3.1 Physical processing methods 150
3.2 Minimal chemical processing methods 152
3.3 Synthetic chemical processing methods 155
3.4 Oxidation 156
4. Selection of ingredients 157
4.1 Selection based on structural suitability 157
4.2 Selection based on processing methods 158
4.3 Selection based on form of finished product 158
5. The role of pH in personal care science 182
6. Viscosity and specific gravity 186
6.1 Measuring viscosity 186
6.2 Specific gravity 187
Appendix A: Answers to activitis 188
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Chapter 5: Select preservatives for personal care formulas
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Table of Contents
Chapter 5: Select preservatives for personal care formulas
Item Page
1. Preservative actions 194
1.1 Factors affecting preservative performance 194
1.2 Formulating to reduce microbial risk 198
1.3 Factors that increase microbial risk 201
1.4 Manufacturing considerations 202
2. Ancillary agents 203
2.1 Antioxidants 203
2.2 Chelating agents 207
3. Preservative efficacy (challenge) testing 212
4. Selecting the right preservative 218
4.1 Preservative considerations 218
4.2 Evaluating new preservatives 231
4.3 Worked examples: preservative selection 233
Appendix A: Answers to activities 239
References and Additional Reading:
McKane, H & Kandel, J. 1995. Microbiology: Essentials and Applications. 2nd Edition.
McGraw-Hill, Inc: New York.
Orth, D. 1999. IFSCC Monograph Number 5: An Introduction to Cosmetic Microbiology.
Micelle Press: Weymouth.
Pharmaceutical Inspection Convention & Co-Operation Scheme, 2009. PIC/S Guide to Good
Manufacturing Practice for Medicinal Products. PIC/S, 2017.
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Chapter 6: Select rheology modifiers for personal care formulas
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Table of Contents
Chapter 6: Select rheology modifiers for personal care formulas
Item Page
1. The properties of ‘flow’ 246
1.1 Types of flow 246
1.2 Measuring viscosity 250
1.3 Shear in mixing 251
2. Purposes of flow in personal care 254
3. Gums and thickeners used in personal care 262
3.1 Water-based rheological agents 264
3.2 Oil based rheological agents 291
3.3 Gum/thickener selection checklist 298
4. Example formulas and formula builds 304
4.1 Example face/body gel formula build 305
4.2 Example serum build (emulsifier free) 307
4.3 Example o/w lotion/cream formula build 310
4.4 Example w/o lotion/cream formula build 312
Appendix A: Answers to activities 314
Appendix B: Selecting the right ‘carbomer’ for your formulation 318
References and Additional Reading:
Knowlton, JL and Pearce SEM, 1993. The Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology.
Elsevier Advanced Technology: Oxford.
Laba, D. 1997. IFSCC Monograph Number 3: An Introduction to Rheology. Micelle Press:
Weymouth.
Shaw, D. 1992. Introduction to Colloid & Surface Chemistry 4th Ed. Elsevier Science: Oxford.
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Chapter 7: Select lipids for personal care formulas
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Table of Contents
Chapter 7: Select lipids for personal care formulas
Item Page
1. Lipids in personal care products 326
1.1 An overview of lipid types 327
1.2 Spreading profiles 331
2. Natural lipids 334
2.1 Natural oils and butters 334
2.2 Natural waxes 341
3. Natural derivatives of lipids 344
3.1 Chemical processing of derivatives 344
3.2 Properties of derivatives 348
4. Synthetic lipids 353
5. Silicone 355
6. Selecting appropriate lipids for your formula 359
6.1 Lipid selection checklist 367
6.2 Worked examples 368
Appendix A: Answers to activities 376
References and Additional Reading:
Battaglia, Salvatore, 2003. The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy, 2nd Edition. The International
Centre of Holistic Aromatherapy: Brisbane.
Curtis, Tony and Williams, David, 2001. An Introduction to Perfumery, 2nd Edition. Micelle
Press: New York.
Knowlton, JL and Pearce SEM, 1993. The Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology.
Elsevier Advanced Technology: Oxford.
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Chapter 8: Fragrance or essential oil for personal care formulation
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Table of Contents
Chapter 8: Fragrance or essential oil for personal care formulation
Item Page
1. Essential oil blending 380
1.1 Blending top, middle and base notes 380
1.2 Blending by aroma type 381
2. Formulating with fragrances and essential oils 383
2.1 Legislation on essential oils and fragrances 383
2.2 Safety aspects of essential oils and fragrances 388
2.3 Usage rates 389
2.4 Incorporating fragrance and essential oils into products 390
2.5 Selecting fragrances and essential oils for personal care formulas 393
3. Fragrance and essential oils checklist 394
Appendix A: Answer to activities 396
Appendix B: Allergens according to EU cosmetics directive 398
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Chapter 9: Emulsifier for personal care formulas
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Table of Contents
Chapter 9: Emulsifiers for personal care formulas
Item Page
1. An overview of colloids 401
1.1 Colloidal system kinetics and thermodynamics 401
1.2 Intermolecular interactions affecting colloidal systems 406
2. Liquid/liquid colloids (emulsions) 415
2.1 Agitation 418
2.2 Emulsifiers 422
2.3 HLB 428
2.4 Emulsifier blends 429
2.5 Manufacturing emulsions 433
2.6 Stabilising emulsions 442
2.7 Selecting the appropriate emulsifier 445
Appendix A: Further reading on HLB 464
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Chapter 10: Surfactants for personal care formulas
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Table of Contents
Chapter 10: Surfactants for personal care formulas
Item Page
1. An overview of surfactants 469
2. Properties of surfactants 473
2.1 Surface tension 473
2.2 Foaming 485
2.3 Solubilisation 491
2.4 Detergency 494
3. Types of surfactants 498
3.1 Anionic surfactants 501
3.2 Cationic surfactants 509
3.3 Nonionic surfactants 509
3.4 Amphoteric surfactants 518
4. Reducing the irritancy of surfactants 522
5. Surfactant selection checklist 524
5.1 General method when manufacturing foaming surfactants 528
5.2 Selecting your surfactants 540
5.3 Making final adjustments 547
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Chapter 11: Prepare skin care formulas
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Table of Contents
Chapter 11: Prepare skin care formulas
Item Page
1. Skin physiology 551
1.1 Absorbance into the skin 555
1.2 Formulating basic facial care products 572
1.3 Formulating baby care products 610
1.4 Formulating men’s skin care products 612
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