Workshop
1.PLUMBING AND THE PLUMBER
Plumbing is the art and science of creating
and maintaining sanitary conditions in
buildings used by humans. It's also the art
and science of installing, repairing, and
servicing in these same buildings a plumbing
system that includes the pipes, fixtures, and
appurtenances necessary for bringing in the
water supply and removing liquid and water-
carried waste.
2.Transfer of heat occurs in three ways:
1. Convection
2. Radiation
3. Conduction
4.Heating System
In Heating systems the compression tank
plays an important part. When water in the
system is heated it expands. If no tank were
installed, the expanding water would be
forced out through the relief valve. In that
case, cool water would be drawn in to replace
the water lost by expansion.
Extra fuel is used to heat this cold water; also,
the constant adding of water brings in foreign
matter, such as sediment or lime. This results
in scaling of the boiler with an ever increasing
amount of fuel required for heating.
Water in a heating system, heated from 32°F.
to 212°F. (0°C. to 100°C.) will expand
approximately 1/23 of its original volume.
Convection is the method used for
transferring heat in a gravity domestic hot
water circulation system.
6.Water supply
Storage tanks up to 82 gallons (310.4 liter)
capacity are tapped for 1" (25 mm)
connections; tanks over that size are tapped a
minimum of 1¼" (32 mm) generally. The dip
tube on a cold water supply should terminate
8"(20 cm) above the bottom of the tank.
The standard length of asbestos cement
water main pressure pipe is 13 ft.
(approximately 4 m).
When water solidifies it becomes lighter.
The amount of heat required to change ice to
liquid water is 144 BTUs per lb. (335 joules
per kilogram).
The installation of a water softener in a
residential piping system causes a fairly high
pressure loss.
8.Gas water heater
If no separate tappings are on water heater,
then place relief valve however, use nipples
as short as possible.
Never install a check valve in the water
supply to a water heater, because it would
confine pressure in the tank and result in an
accident if the relief valve did not operate.
There is a small hole drilled in the dip tube
near the top; this hole admits air to the cold
water piping to break siphonic action.
9.½S or P-trap
The trap seal is measured from the top dip to
the crown weir.
To protect a trap water seal from evaporation
in a building that will be unoccupied for a
period of time, pour a thin film of oil into the
trap. During cold seasons, in unheated
buildings, water should be drained and
replaced with kerosene.
Trap seals may be lost by siphonage,
evaporation, capillary attraction, or wind
blowing.
Standard P-trap seal is 2" ; seals over 2½" are
called deep seals.
The P-trap is at least 18" below grade, and
the inlet not more than 4" above grade. The
connection from the trailer to the inlet
should not exceed 8' . The minimum distance
between sewer and water connection
should be 5’. Check the local code.
10.Kitchen Sink
The waste line should be 1½" S.P.S., and
located 22¼" from the finished floor, 8" off
the center line of a double-compartment sink.
A single- compartment sink should be
roughed in at 25¼”. Hot and cold water lines
should be 23" from the finished floor: hot 4"
to the left of the center line, cold 4" to the
right.
If one compartment of a two-compartment
sink is to be provided with a garbage disposal,
the waste line should rough in at 16" above
the finished floor.
11.Service Sinks
The waste line or trap standard from these
sinks is generally 3" S.P.S., and roughs in at
10½" above the finished floor. The water lines
are generally roughed in at 6" from the
finished floor: hot 4" to the left, cold 4" to the
right.
12. Purpose of Venting in a Drainage
System
The purpose of venting is to provide equal
pressure in a plumbing system. Venting
prevents pressures from building up and
causing retarded flow. It protects trap seals
and carries off foul air, gases, and vapors that
would form corrosive acids harmful to piping.
13. Lap Joint
A lap of about ⅜” is advisable for the weights
of lead ordinarily employed by plumbers. On
the top surface of the bottom sheet, a line
should be marked ½" back from the edge to
be joined. This portion should be shaved
lightly with the shave hook, using strokes
parallel to the edge, until the surface is clean
back to the line.
The same procedure should be followed on
the under side of the top sheet. The edge of
the top sheet should also be cleaned and the
top sheet placed in position, lapping over the
other ⅜” . This leaves ⅛" of the cleaned
portion of the lower piece of lead exposed.
With the flat dresser, the top sheet should be
dressed down to the level of the bottom
sheet, except where it actually laps and is
held up by the lead underneath. The lap
should be dressed to fit snugly. With the
shave hook, the upper surface of the top layer
should then be cleaned for a distance of ¾"
from the edge. Tallow should be applied
immediately to all cleaned areas. As in
making butt joints, the sheets should be
tacked in similar manner.
14.Butt Joint
To make a butt joint, the edges to be joined
should be beveled with a shave hook so that
they make an angle of 45° or more with the
vertical. This is accomplished by wrapping a
piece of cloth around the index finger of the
hand holding the shave hook and using this
finger, pressed against the edge of the lead,
as a guide when drawing the shave hook
along the edge.
Immediately after shaving, tallow candle or
refined mutton tallow free from salt should be
rubbed over all shaved parts in a very thin
coat to prevent oxidation.
Edges to be joined should then be placed
firmly together and powdered rosin sprinkled
along the joint. With a clean, well-tinned
soldering iron and 50-50 solder, the edges are
next tacked together at intervals of from 4"
to 6" , using a drop of solder at each point. An
iron at proper heat should then be placed
against the lead at the end of the seam in the
groove formed by the abutting beveled edges.
Solder should be fed in slowly, allowing it to
be melted by the iron and fill the groove. The
iron should be drawn slowly along the joint,
the speed being such as to permit the solder
to melt and fill the groove continuously,
building up to a slightly rounded surface when
finished.
16.Making Up a Joint
The preliminary steps of tube measuring,
cutting, burr removing, and cleaning (tube
ends and sockets must be thoroughly cleaned
before beginning the brazing operation) are
identical to the same steps in the soft-
soldering process. A suitable flux can be made
that will be suitable for making silver solder
joints on copper tubing by mixing powdered
Borax and alcohol or water to a thin, milky
solution.
17. Plastic Pipe and Fitting Application
Plastic pressure piping for hot and cold water
supply is now permitted in FHA-financed
rehabilitation projects. Plastic pipe enjoys
markets in natural gas distribution, rural
potable water systems, crop irrigation, and
chemical processing. Almost 100% of all
mobile homes and travel trailers have plastic
pipe.
Two types of plastic pipe and fittings are
commonly used for drainage systems: PVC
and ABS.
18. Apply Primer ( PVC and CPVC only )
Use only primer formulated for PVC and CPVC.
Apply first to the inside of the fitting, then to
the outside of the pipe to the depth that will
be taken into the fitting when seated. Wait 5
to 15 seconds before applying cement. A
primer is not needed for ABS.
Procedure for Cleaning Wiping Solder
The procedure for cleaning wiping solder
varies. One method is: Heat solder to a dull
red, about 790°F. (421°C.) (melting point of
zinc), then add about one tablespoon of
sulphur and stir; then permit the pot to cool
slowly and skim off top dross that contains the
impurities consisting of compounds of lead,
tin, and zinc. Stir and skim until the top is
clean. Next, add a small amount of powdered
or lump rosin, stir, and skim again. Allow the
pot to cool until the solder reaches wiping
temperature; then add sufficient tin to
reestablish proper workability.
Friction Weld
Friction welding is a method used by Qest in
manufacturing supply tubes. The cone is spun
onto the tube at 2500 rpm, creating friction
and heat sufficient to weld the two pieces
together. Portable friction-weld tools can be
made available to professional plumbers and
plumbing manufacturers.
Sizes
Rebar comes in a range of diameters,
numbered 3 through 11. The numbers denote
the diameter of the bar in 1/8-inch
increments. Thus, #3 bar is 3/8 inch in
diameter, #4 bar is 4/8 (or 1/2) inch, #5 bar is
5/8 inch, and so on.
The size most commonly used in residential
construction is #4, though #5 and #6 bar are
used often in hillside construction.
Rebar larger than #6 will sometimes be found
in large retaining walls or in large diameter
deep piers, but in residential work these
larger bars are rare.
Patio slabs, garage floors, walkways, pool
decks, steps, and simple landings are often
made with #3 bar. The 3/8-inch size is also
used in stirrups or cage ties, which also
contain an assembly of larger bar
Grades
Besides a variety of bar diameters, rebar is
graded in two primary grade classifications,
commonly known as grade 40 and grade 60.
Grade 40 is more malleable and easier to
bend. Grade 60 is stiffer and does not bend as
easily.
Generally, grade 40 is found in #3 and #4
bar, and grade 60 in #5 and larger.
Bending
We bend #3 and #4 bar on site with the
bending tool, but the larger sizes are
practically impossible to work on site. It can
order the larger sizes bent by the supplier and
delivered to the site ready for installation.
Never bend rebar by heating it with a torch
this makes the steel brittle and easy to break,
defeating its structural purpose of resisting
flex.
Required Tools
1. Foot Ruler, Meter Ruler and Steel Tape
2. Pincers
3. Plumbing Bob
4. Steel square
5. Auger bit
6. Pulley Bench
7. Hammer and Band saw
8. Steel scissors and cutting chisels
9. Bending bench
10. Bending tools
11. Hacksaw, chop saw
12. Open spanner bending rod or Open
spanner Bar Bender
Rebar Cutting
According to construction figure or blue print,
from given length and bend diameter.
required total length of bar can be calculated
and marked. According marked point, rebar
can be cut with scissors and cutting chisels.
Cutting rebar can be done easily with a metal
cutting hack saw blade. You can also use a
reciprocating saw, portable band saw, or
grinder equipped with a blade suitable for
cutting "mild steel".
Rebar tends to want to roll around when being
cut, therefore it is often necessary to step on
the bar or have an otherwise steady hold
while cutting it.
Cut rebar is always hot and/or sharp. Use
gloves and caution.
