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Woven Fabric Quality Guidelines
CATEGORY ABRASION TESTS Modified Martindale Pilling Resistance Martindale Abrasion Resistance Snagging Resistance (Mace) ANTIBACTERIAL TESTS Petri Dish Petri Dish (Parallel Streak) Shaker Flask APPEARANCE TESTS Crease Retention (Carefree Fabrics) Home Laundry Pile Retention of Corduroy COLORFASTNESS TESTS Accelerated Laundry Accelerated Laundry (Modified) Burnt Gas Fumes Chlorine Bleach (Spot) Chlorine Bleach Rubbing Dry Cleaning Light ISO 105-C06 : 1994 PRL 61-2008 ISO 105-G02 : 1993 PRL 12-2008 ISO 105-N01 : 1993 ISO 105-X12 : 2001 ISO 105-D01 : 1993 ISO 105-B02 : 1994 Shade Change Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4 General Dry 4 Wet 3 Indigo/Pgmt/Sulfur Dry 3 Wet 2 Silk/Linen Dry 3 Wet 2 Shade Change Grade 4 Staining Grade 3 20shf Grade 4 40shf Grade 3 Swimwear 40shf Grade 4 Staining Grade 3 ISO 7769 : 2006 ISO 15487 : 1999 ASTM D 4685-89 Grade 3/4 Fabric dependent Courduroy/ Velveteen - Grade 3.5 AATCC 100-2004 AATCC 147-2004 Dow Corning DC-0923 85% kill min. @ 1mm/L after 50 washes or specified 85% kill min. @ 1mm/L after 50 washes or specified 85% - 95% kill to 10 washes ISO 12945-2 : 2000 ISO 12947-2 : 1998 ASTM 3939-97 500 cycles Grade 4 2000 cycles Grade 3 Fabric dependant Grade 4 TEST METHOD GLOBAL GUIDELINE
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CATEGORY COLORFASTNESS TESTS (continued) Non-Chlorine Bleach Non-Chlorine Bleach (Spot) Ozone Perspiration Perspiration and Light Sea Water (swimwear & accessories) Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear & accessories) Saliva Infants (0 36 months) Water (Daimaru Method) Water CONSTRUCTION TESTS Stitch Thread Count Weight Yarn Size STABILITY TESTS Suiting (general) w&f w/ >2% elastane w&f Cotton/Silk/Linen w&f Synthetics w&f Other >2% elastane w&f = 2% = 3% = 3% = 2% = 4% Visual ASTM D 3775-97 ASTM D 3776-96 ASTM D 1059-97 As specified 3% 3% 3% ISO 105-C09 : 2001 PRL 11-2008 ISO 105-G03 : 1993 ISO 105-E04 : 1994 AATCC 125-2004 ISO 105-E02 : 1994 ISO 105-E03 : 1994 64 LGB B82.10-1 PRL 10-2008 ISO 105 E01 : 1994 Shade Change Grade 3 Shade Change Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4-5 Grade for assessment and not to pass/fail Shade change -------------- Grade 4 Staining --------------------- Grade 4 Staining Grade 3 Staining Grade 3 Staining Grade 3 TEST METHOD GLOBAL GUIDELINE
Commerical Laundry
ISO 675 : 1979
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Woven Fabric Quality Guidelines
CATEGORY STABILITY TESTS (continued) Suiting (general) w&f w/ >2% elastane w&f Cotton/Silk/Linen w&f Synthetics w&f Other >2% elastane w&f Suiting (general) w&f w/ >2% elastane w&f Cotton/Silk/Linen w&f Synthetics w&f Other >2% elastane w&f = 2% = 3% = 3% = 2% = 4% = 2% = 3% = 3% = 2% = 4% TEST METHOD GLOBAL GUIDELINE
Commerical Laundry
ISO 675 : 1979
Steam Press
Note: *Non-washed items only *No growth accepted
ISO 3759 : 2007 ISO 5077 : 2007 ISO 3175-2 : 1998
Note: Finishing Method C
Dry Clean (Perc.) ISO 3175-1 : 1998 ISO 3175-2 : 1998 Home Laundry
Note: For fabrics Type A Washer Proc. No. 4A Type B Washer - Proc. No. 4B For garments Test to care instructions
Suiting (general) w&f = 2% w/ >2% elastane w&f = 3% Cotton/Silk/Linen w&f = 3% Synthetics w&f = 2% Other >2% elastane w&f = 4% Suiting (general) w&f w/ >2% elastane w&f Cotton/Silk/Linen w&f Synthetics w&f Other >2% elastane w&f Fabric dependent = 3% = 2% = 3% = 3% = 2% = 4%
ISO 3759 : 2007 ISO 5077 : 2007 ISO 6330 : 2007
Garment Wash Skewness Change in Laundering
PRL 135-2008 ISO 16322-2 (fabric) ISO 16322-3 (garment)
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Woven Fabric Quality Guidelines
CATEGORY STRENGTH TESTS 4.0 - 6.0oz - warp 40lb fill 30lb 6.1 - 8.0oz - warp 45lb fill 35lb 8.1 - 10.0oz - warp 55lb fill 45lb 10.1 - 12.0oz - warp 70lb fill 55lb 12.1 - 14.7oz - warp 90lb fill 70lb (< 4oz/yd2): non sheer ---- =25 warp/fill sheer --------- =15 warp/fill 4.0 - 6.0oz - warp 3lb fill 2.5lb 6.1 - 8.0oz - warp 4lb fill 3lb 8.1 - 10.0oz - warp 5lb fill 3.5lb 10.0 - 12.0oz - warp 6lb fill 4lb 12.1 - 14.7oz - warp 7lb fill 4.5lb (< 4oz/yd2): non sheer - = 1.5lb sheer - = 1.0lb Jkt/Pants/Suits ------------- = 20 lb (< 4oz/yd2): non sheer ------------------- = 15 lb sheer ------------------------ = 12 lb < 4.0 oz - 15 lbs Warp & Fill 4.0 - 10 oz - 20 lbs Warp & Fill 10.1 14.7oz - 30 lbs Warp & Fill TEST METHOD GLOBAL GUIDELINE
Tensil Stength Grab Method
ISO 13934-2 : 1999
Tear Strength Elmendorf Method
ISO 13937-1 : 2000
ISO 13936-1 : 2004 Seam Slippage
Note: Slip distance = 1/4in (6mm)
Seam Strength PERFORMANCE TESTS Absorbency Oil Repellency
ISO 13935-2 : 1999
AATCC 79-1995 ISO 14419 : 1998
= 5 sec Unwashed -------------- Grade 5 After 10x washes ------ Grade 3/4 Active ------------ = 350 ft3/min/ft Basic ------------- = 100 ft3/min/ft Repellant -------- = 8 ft3/min/ft Resistant --------- = 5 ft3/min/ft Storm ------------- = 1 ft3/min/ft
Air Permeability
ASTM D 737-04
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Woven Fabric Quality Guidelines
CATEGORY PERFORMANCE TESTS (continued) Elongation: 1 way stretch ---------------- = 20% 2 way stretch ---------------- = 15% Growth (after 30 mins): General: - >2% elastane ----------- = 4% Lightweight ----------------- = 9% 1.5 oz/in 500 1000 gm/m2/24hr Fabric dependant 5 cm / 5 min Fabric dependent 0.8 clo *TBD - Researching standard 5psi - 80psi Fabric dependant = 1g penetration = 80 rating durable to 10 washes TEST METHOD GLOBAL GUIDELINE
Stretch - High Power
ASTM D 3107-03
Bond Strength Moisture Vapor Transmission (Inverted Cup) Wickability Reflective Properties Thermal Transmittence UV Protection Mullin Hydrostat Water Resistance (Rain) Water Resistance (Spray)
AATCC 136-2003 ASTM E 96-95 PRL 1-2008 Polo Test Method ASTM D 1518-85 AATCC 183-2004 ASTM D 751 AATCC 35-2000 AATCC 22-2005
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