1 36
traditional elements to delight and surprise
EATALY the palate. There are tasting menus at €70
and €90.
Housed in a renovated rail terminal in
trendy Ostiense, Eataly (% 06 9027 Paris RISTORANTE €€€
9201; www.roma.eataly.it; Air Terminal (Map p102; % 06 581 53 78; www.ristoranteparis.it;
Ostiense, Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492; h shop Piazza San Calisto 7a; meals €55; h Tue-Sat, lunch
10am-midnight, restaurants noon-11.30pm; only Sun; g Viale di Trastevere, j Viale di Traste-
Rome & L a zio R
m Piramide) is an enormous, mall-like vere) An old-school Roman restaurant set in
complex devoted to Italian food. As well a 17th-century building, with seating out on
as shops selling foodstuffs from all over the piazza, Paris (named for its founder, not
the country, books and kitchenware, it’s the French capital) is the best place outside
also home to 19 cafes and restaurants, the Ghetto to sample Roman-Jewish cuisine,
including a panini (sandwich) bar, a such as delicate fritto misto con baccalà
E atin
gelateria, friggitoria (traditional Roman (deep-fried vegetables with salt cod) and
oM
O
fried food), a restaurant specialising in
mE
carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichokes).
eg
Lazio-sourced vegetables, a rosticceria There’s a sun-shaded terrace.
(for roasted meats) and a fine-dining
restaurant. There’s also an excellent
pizza and pasta restaurant, and a 5 Vatican City, Borgo
microbrewery serving craft beers.
The complex is a 10-minute walk
& Prati
from Piramide metro station. oPizzarium PIZZA BY SLICE €
(Map p106; Via della Meloria 43; pizza slices from €3;
h 11am-9pm Mon-Sat; m Cipro–Musei Vaticani) A
anchovies and divine zuccherini (tiny fish) gourmet revelation masquerading as an un-
with fresh mint. The set menu costs €41. assuming takeaway, hard-to-find Pizzarium
dishes up some of Rome’s best sliced pizza.
Le Mani in Pasta RISTORANTE €€ Served on a wooden chopping board, its
(Map p102; % 06 581 60 17; Via dei Genovesi 37; fluffy dough and perfect crust are topped
meals €45; h lunch & dinner Tue-Sun; g Viale di with original, intensely flavoured ingredi-
Trastevere, j Viale di Trastevere) Popular and ents. There’s also a daily selection of supplì,
lively, this rustic, snug place has arched juices and chilled beers.
ceilings and an open kitchen that serves up
tasty fresh pasta dishes such as fettucine Mondo Arancina SICILIAN, FAST FOOD €
con ricotta e pancetta. The grilled meats are (Map p106; Via Marcantonio Colonna 38; arancine
great, too. from €2.50; h 10am-late; m Lepanto) All sunny
yellow ceramics, cheerful crowds and tanta-
Meridionale RISTORANTE €€ lising deep-fried snacks, this bustling take-
(Map p102; www.meridionaletrastevere.com; Via away brings a little corner of Sicily to Rome.
dei Fienaroli; meals €35, Sunday buffet €15; h din- Star of the show are the classic fist-sized
ner Tue-Sun, lunch Sat & Sun; g Viale di Trastevere, arancine, fried rice balls stuffed with fill-
j Viale di Trastevere) This hidden-away, arch- ers ranging from classic ragù to more exotic
ceilinged restaurant specialises in southern fare such as truffle risotto and quail eggs.
Italian cooking, with dishes such as spa-
ghetti with squid and cherry tomatoes. The Dolce Maniera BAKERY €
appealing interior has a shabby-chic vibe, (Map p106; Via Barletta 27; h 24hr; m Ottaviano–
with its faded newspaper wallpaper, and San Pietro) This 24-hour basement bakery
glass domes over the desserts. There’s a buf- supplies much of the neighbourhood with
fet lunch on Sunday. breakfast. Head here for cheap-as-chips cor-
netti (croissants), slabs of pizza, panini and
Glass Hostaria MODERN ITALIAN €€€ an indulgent array of cakes.
(Map p102; % 06 5833 5903; Vicolo del Cinque 58;
meals €80; h from 8pm Tue-Sun; g Piazza Trilus- Cacio e Pepe TRATTORIA €
sa) Trastevere’s foremost foodie address, the (% 06 321 72 68; Via Avezzana 11; meals €25;
Glass is a modernist-styled, sophisticated h closed Sat dinner & Sun; g Piazza Giuseppe
restaurant with cooking to match. Chef Cris- Mazzini) A local institution, this humble trat-
tina Bowerman creates inventive, delicate toria is as authentic as it gets with a menu
dishes that combine fresh ingredients and of traditional Roman dishes, a spartan
