1 16
(Madonna of the Palafrenieri; 1605–06) and
HOTEL TAX San Giovanni Battista (St John the Baptist;
1609–10), probably Caravaggio’s last work.
Everyone overnighting in Rome has to
Then there’s the much-loved Ragazzo col
pay a room occupancy tax on top of
Canestro di Frutta (Boy with a Basket of
the regular accommodation bill. This
Fruit; 1593–95) and the dramatic Davide
amounts to:
con la Testa di Golia (David with the Head
¨¨€1 per person per night for a
Rome & L a zio R
of Goliath; 1609–10) – Goliath’s severed head
maximum of five days in campgrounds. is said to be a self-portrait.
¨¨€2 per person per night for a Upstairs, the pinacoteca offers a wonder-
maximum of 10 days in agriturismi ful snapshot of European Renaissance art.
(farm stay accommodation), B&Bs, Don’t miss Raphael’s extraordinary La De-
guesthouses, convents, monasteries posizione di Cristo (The Deposition; 1507)
and one-, two- and three-star hotels. and his Dama con Liocorno (Lady with a
S iO
Unicorn; 1506) in Sala IX. Also in the room
ogM
¨¨€3 per person per night for a
mhts
is the superb Adorazione del Bambino
e
E
maximum of 10 days in four- and five-
star hotels. (Adoration of the Christ Child; 1495) by Fra
Bartolomeo and Perugino’s Madonna con
The tax is applicable to anyone who is Bambino (Madonna and Child; first quarter
not a resident in Rome. Prices quoted in of the 16th century).
this section don’t include the tax. Other highlights include Correggio’s
erotic Danae (1530–31) in Sala X, Bernini’s
self-portraits in Sala XIV and Titian’s early
as well as some spectacular sculptures by masterpiece, Amor Sacro e Amor Profano
Bernini, was formed by Cardinal Scipione (Sacred and Profane Love; 1514) in Sala XX.
Borghese (1579–1633), the most knowledge-
able and ruthless art collector of his day. It’s oVilla Borghese PARK
housed in the Casino Borghese, whose neo- (Map p113; Entrances at Piazzale San Paolo del
classical look is the result of a 17th-century Brasile, Piazzale Flaminio, Via Pinciana, Largo Pablo
revamp of Scipione’s original villa. Picasso; h dawn-dusk; g Porta Pinciana) Locals,
The museum is divided into two parts: lovers, tourists, joggers – no one can resist
the ground-floor gallery, with its superb the lure of Rome’s most celebrated park.
sculptures, intricate Roman floor mosaics Originally the estate of Cardinal Scipione
and over-the-top frescoes; and the upstairs Borghese’s 17th-century residence, it cov-
picture gallery. ers about 80 hectares and boasts several
Things get off to a cracking start in the museums and galleries, as well as the Gia-
entrance hall, decorated with 4th-century rdino del Lago (Map p113) and Piazza di
floor mosaics of fighting gladiators and a Siena (Map p113), an amphitheatre used for
gravity-defying bas-relief of a horse and Rome’s top equestrian event in May.
rider falling into the void by Pietro Bernini. Bike hire is available at various points, in-
Sala I is centred on Antonio Canova’s cluding Largo Pablo Picasso, for about €5/15
daring depiction of Napoleon’s sister, Paoli- per hour/day.
na Bonaparte Borghese, reclining topless
Galleria Nazionale ¨
as Venere vincitrice (Conquering Venus;
d’Arte Moderna ART GALLERY
1805–08). Yet it’s Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s
(Map p113; % 06 3229 8221; www.gnam.benicul-
spectacular sculptures – flamboyant depic-
turali.it; Viale delle Belle Arti 131, disabled entrance
tions of pagan myths – that really steal the
Via Gramsci 71; adult/reduced €8/4; h 8.30am-
show. Just look at Daphne’s hands morphing
7.30pm Tue-Sun; j Piazza Thorvaldsen) Housed
into leaves in the swirling Apollo e Dafne
in a vast belle époque palace, this impres-
(Apollo and Daphne; 1622–25) in Sala III, or
sive but oft-overlooked gallery showcases
Pluto’s hand pressing into the seemingly soft
works by the most important exponents of
flesh of Persephone’s thigh in the Ratto di
modern Italian art. There are canvases by
Proserpina (Rape of Persephone; 1621–22)
the macchiaioli (the Italian Impressionists)
in Sala IV.
and futurists Boccioni and Balla, as well as
Caravaggio dominates Sala VIII. You’ll
sculptures by Canova and major paintings
see a dissipated-looking Bacchino malato
by Modigliani and De Chirico. International
(Young Sick Bacchus; 1593–94), the strange-
artists are also represented with works by
ly beautiful La Madonna dei Palafenieri
