84
The piazza’s largest building is the 17th- much of the area was covered by the Teatro
century Palazzo Pamphilj (Map p80), built di Pompeo, the vast theatre complex where
for Pope Innocent X and now home to the Julius Caesar was stabbed to death on the
Brazilian Embassy. Ides of March (15 March) 44 BC.
On the piazza’s western flank is Rome’s
Museo di Roma MUSEUM
premier theatre, Teatro Argentina (Map
(Map p80; % 06 06 08; www.museodiroma.it; en- p80; % 06 684 00 03 11; www.teatrodiroma.net;
trances Piazza di San Pantaleo 10 & Piazza Navona
Rome & L a zio R
Largo di Torre Argentina 52; tickets €12-27; g Largo
2; adult/reduced €8.50/6.50; h 10am-8pm Tue- di Torre Argentina).
Sun, last admission 7pm; g Corso Vittorio Emanuele
II) The baroque Palazzo Braschi houses the Chiesa del Gesù CHURCH
Museo di Roma’s eclectic collection of paint- (Map p80; www.chiesadelgesu.org; Piazza del Gesù;
ings, photographs, etchings, clothes and rooms admission free; h 7am-12.30pm & 4-7.45pm,
furniture, charting the history of Rome from St Ignatius rooms 4-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon Sun;
S iO
the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. g Largo di Torre Argentina) An imposing exam-
ogM
mhts
But as striking as the collection are the pal- ple of late-16th-century Counter-Reformation
e
E
azzo’s beautiful frescoed halls, including the architecture, this is Rome’s most important
extravagant Sala Cinese and the Egyptian- Jesuit church. The facade by Giacomo della
themed Sala Egiziana. Porta is impressive but it’s the awesome gold-
and-marble interior that is the real attraction.
Campo de’ Fiori PIAZZA
The church’s great masterpiece is the
(Map p80; g Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) Noisy, Trionfo del Nome di Gesù (Triumph of the
colourful ‘Il Campo’ is a major focus of Ro- Name of Jesus), the swirling, hypnotic vault
man life: by day it hosts a much-loved mar- fresco by Giovanni Battista Gaulli (aka Il
ket, while at night it morphs into a raucous Baciccia), who also painted the cupola fres-
open-air pub. Towering over the square is a coes and designed the stucco decoration.
sinister statue of Giordano Bruno, a philoso- Baroque master Andrea Pozzo designed
pher monk who was burned at the stake for the Cappella di Sant’Ignazio, where you’ll
heresy in 1600. find the opulent tomb of Ignatius Loyola,
Palazzo Farnese PALACE the Spanish soldier and saint who founded
(Map p80; www.inventerrome.com; Piazza Farnese; the Jesuits in 1540. The altar-tomb is an
admission €5; h guided tours 3pm, 4pm, 5pm Mon, opulent marble-and-bronze affair flanked
Wed & Fri; g Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) One of by two sculptures: to the left, Fede che vince
Rome’s greatest Renaissance palazzi, Pal- l’Idolatria (Faith Defeats Idolatry); and on
azzo Farnese was started in 1514 by Anto- the right, Religione che flagella l’Eresia (Re-
nio da Sangallo the Younger, continued by ligion Lashing Heresy).
Michelangelo, and finished by Giacomo del- The Spanish saint lived in the church
la Porta. Nowadays, it’s home to the French from 1544 until his death in 1556. His rooms,
Embassy, and open only to visitors who’ve which contain a masterful trompe l’œil by
booked a guided tour – see the website for Andrea del Pozzo, are to the right of the
details. Visits, for which you’ll need to book church entrance.
at least a week in advance, take in the Gal- Museo Nazionale ¨
leria dei Caracci, home to a cycle of frescoes Romano: Crypta Balbi MUSEUM
by Annibale Carracci that are said to rival (Map p80; % 06 3996 7700; http://archeo-
those of the Sistine Chapel. roma.beniculturali.it/en/museums/national-roman-
Photo ID is required for entry and chil- museum-crypta-balbi; Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31;
dren under 10 are not admitted. adult/reduced €7/3.50; h 9am-7.45pm Tue-Sun;
The twin fountains in the square are g Via delle Botteghe Oscure) The least known
enormous granite baths taken from the of the Museo Nazionale Romano’s four mu-
Terme di Caracalla. seums, the Crypta Balbi is built around the
Largo di Torre Argentina RUIN ruins of medieval and Renaissance struc-
(Map p80; g Largo di Torre Argentina) A busy pub- tures, themselves set atop the ancient Tea-
lic transport hub, Largo di Torre Argentina tro di Balbus (13 BC). Duck down into the
is set around the sunken Area Sacra (Map underground excavations, then examine
p80) and the remains of four Republican- artefacts taken from the Crypta, as well as
era temples, all built between the 2nd and items found in the forums and on the Op-
4th centuries BC. In the 1st century BC, pian and Celian Hills.
