Threads of time: Indian textile

India has one of the finest textile traditions in the world with respect to
dyeing, weaving and

Surface embellishment. The richness of its crafts is evident in the excavated

findings of Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro in the Indus Valley, which can be
dated back to 5000 years. Indian textile history has been layered and
enriched by nuances of migratory weavers, foreign invasions and religious
influences. The wide range of design and weave, specific to the region of
their origin, are masterpieces enhanced by the skills of the particular
craftsmen and their tradition. The crafts thrived on the exploration and
ingenuity of the craftspeople and their knowledge of locally available
material.

India’s rich cultural heritage is woven into the very fabric of its society. For
centuries, the country has been renowned for its exquisite textiles, which
have played a significant role in shaping its history, economy, and identity. In
this article, we will embark on a journey through the ages, exploring the
fascinating history of fabric in India.

The threads of history of fabric can be woven from Ancient India (3000 BCE –
500 CE). The ancient Indians were skilled weavers, using simple looms to
create intricate patterns and designs. Back in Harappan Civilization, they
wove a range of grades of cotton cloth. Flax was grown and may have been
used for fibres. The Harappans also probably continued the earlier tradition
of making clothing from leather. Dyeing facilities indicate that cotton cloth
was probably dyed a range of colours, although there is only one surviving
fragment of coloured cloth, dyed red with madder; it is likely that indigo and
turmeric were also used as dyes. The Chola Dynasty is famous for its
incredible contributions to art, architecture, clothing and culture.Women in
the Chola Era wore elegant pudavais (sarees) made from cotton and silk.
These attractive clothing included styles such as surrupudavai, nirvadi
puduvai, and parrutti pudavai, Court attendants wore frock-like coats with full
sleeves.

The Kaikkolar, skilled weavers of the Chola kingdom, produced various types
of clothes for temples, royal households, and common people. The name
“Kaikkolar” combines “Kai” (hand) and “Kol” (loom shuttle), reflecting their
craft. King Raja Raja I invited Saliya weavers from the north, who taught fine-
weaving techniques to local Kaikkolars. These Saliga/Saliyar weavers settled
in various parts of Tanjore, further enriching the textile traditions of the
region.

While the ancient period offers us substantial evidence to show the

production, use and trade of textiles, it was in the medieval period that
significant shifts started taking shape in this sector. Court patronage to
textile craft intensified to an unprecedented level which led to increased
production and trade of these items. The medieval period also witnessed the
arrival of persian influence in the technique, motif and technology used in
making textiles and fabrics in India, especially during the Mughal period.The
most extensively produced and traded fabrics during the medieval period,
especially under the Mughals was cotton. Delhi, Lahore, Agra, Patna,
Banaras, Ahmedabad, Burchapur and Dacca were the major producers of
cotton textile. Its production followed a definitive process. Harvested cotton
was first dried in the sun for a few days, followed by ginning in which the
fibre had to be separated from the cotton seeds.

Francois Bernier, a French Traveller who visited India during the reigns of
Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (1628-1658) and Aurangzeb (1658-1707), wrote
about workshops in his travelogue, ‘Travels in the Mughal Empire’. He
described them as a combination of many large halls where artisans of
different specialities worked. In one hall, you could see embroiderers under a
superintendent, in another painters, then tailors, muslin weavers, brocade
workers etc. Some nobles also ran their private workshops.

Textile industry blossomed under the Mughal patronage. The ladies and
gents of the Mughal empire wore beautiful and expensive clothes made from
the finest materials and adorned themselves with jewellery from head to toe.
The garments of Mughal ladies were made of the finest muslins, silks, velvets
and brocades. The muslins used for their clothes were of three types: Ab-e-
Rawan (running water), Baft Hawa (woven air) and Shabnam (evening dew).
Muslins called Shabnam were brought from Dacca and were famous as
Dhaka malmal.

During the Akbari period, men wore trousers invariably with their jamas
(“Jama” means garment, robe, gown or coat) , and there is no artistic
evidence to suggest that dhotis were ever worn in combination with the
coats. Therefore, while Rajpal may have worn a dhoti in the privacy of his
home, in public he wore trousers. Paintings of the period indicate that the
paijamas were loose and flowing from the waist to the knee, where they
became snug down to the ankle. Often the fabric on the lower legs is
wrinkled, suggesting that the paijamas were longer than the leg itself and
pushed up, just like the sleeves of the jama, in a display of conspicuous
consumption. At no time do the paijamas match the jama in colour, and solid
colours appear to have been the fashion during Akbar’s reign. The Mughals
patronized the arts, encouraging the development of intricate embroidery,
printing, and dyeing techniques. The famous Indian fabrics, such as jamdani,
mashru, and himroo, originated during this period.

The legacy of Indian textile can be traced forward to the British period in
India. British influence on Indian clothing is a captivating tale of sartorial
fusion. Indian fashion was irrevocably altered by British colonial control,
which brought in features that still influence the subcontinent’s fashion
scene. Over time, the sari became a popular dress for Indian women in the
20th century. The sari of the urban educated women gradually integrated the
blouse and petticoat as essential components. Additionally, English inspired
elements like pleats, fancy sleeves, elaborate necklines, and corsets began
to influence blouse styles.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, the gara embroidered sari became popular
among the Parsi women, who adopted the Indian style of sari with slight
modifications in both the draping of the pallu (the loose end of a sari) which
was arranged in the front of the body, and the wearing of the pleats on the
right. The most distinctive feature of this sari was the gara embroidery,
which was a result of the interactions of the Parsi traders with China. This
embroidery was adopted and locally produced by Parsi women and came to
represent an amalgamation of Persian, Indian, and Chinese motifs and
designs.

The British colonial era had a profound impact on the Indian textile industry.
The British East India Company’s exploitation of Indian textiles led to the
decline of the indigenous industry. However, the British also introduced new
textile technologies, such as mechanized spinning and weaving, which
helped to modernize the industry.

After India gained independence in 1947, the government implemented

policies to revitalize the textile industry. The establishment of textile mills,
research institutions, and training centers helped to modernize the industry.
Today, India is one of the largest textile producers in the world, with a
diverse range of fabrics, from traditional handlooms to modern synthetics.

In the realm of India’s cultural heritage, its textile traditions no doubt occupy
a position of unmatched prestige. These ancient techniques handed down
through the generations weave a tale of history, craftmanship and regional
identity. The history of Indian textiles is a story of evolution, adaptation, and
innovation. From the simple looms of ancient India to the modern textile mills
of today, Indian textiles have undergone a remarkable transformation. As we
look back on this journey, we are struck by the resilience and creativity of
Indian textile artisans, who have continued to innovate and adapt to
changing times. The history of Indian textiles is a fascinating narrative that
spans thousands of years, numerous dynasties, and a multitude of
influences. Indian textiles have not only played a significant role in shaping
the country’s economy, culture, and identity but have also had a profound
impact on the global textile industry. As we conclude this journey through the
history of Indian textiles, we are reminded of the significance of preserving
and promoting this valuable cultural heritage.