Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof.
, DTE, NUB
EBTX TEX 3103
Apparel Manufacturing Technology II
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE:
There are three types of sewing machines
➢ Mechanical sewing machines,
➢ Electronic sewing machines, and
➢ Computerized sewing machines.
MECHANICAL SEWING MACHINES:
➢ From 1800 (as their introduction) till 1960's, all sewing machines were mechanical.
➢ Mechanical sewing machines are controlled by a rotary wheel. They have knobs and dials to make changes
in the tension or the length or width of the stitch.
➢ These are less expensive and are the simplest type in terms of build. Bernina 1008, Kenmore 11101, Singer
6038, Elna 2005, Kenmore Mini, Kenmore 15212, and Sears Kenmore 15218 are some of the mechanical
sewing machines available in the market.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
ELECTRONIC SEWING MACHINES:
➢ By the year 1970, electronic sewing machines became popular.
➢ There are more features in an electronic sewing machine than in a mechanical sewing machine.
➢ Instead of turning knobs or dials, electronic sewing machines use button to adjust length or width of the
stitch.
➢ Electronic sewing machines have motors; each one is assigned with a specific task and is run by
electricity.
➢ Singer 7442, Singer 7462, Singer CE-100 Futura, Elna 3230, and Janome Decor Excel 5124 are some
instances of electronic sewing machines.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
COMPUTERIZED SEWING MACHINES:
➢ Computerized sewing machines are similar to electronic sewing machines and are very fast and easy to
use..
➢ They use the same chips and stepper motors that are used in electronic machines. Besides, they possess a
microprocessor which helps the sewing machine to accept new information in a card form and create
stitching patterns based on the information loaded in the card.
➢ Singer CE-200 Quantum Futura, Singer Quantum XL-6000, Brother SE270D, and Janome 8080 are
some examples of computerized sewing machine.
➢ Modern machines may be computer controlled and use stepper motors or sequential cams to achieve very
complex patterns.
➢ Most of these are now made in Asia and the market is becoming more specialized
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
1. Lock stitch m/c or Plain stitch m/c:
• It is the most common m/c which is extensively used at woven fabric in garments industries.
• More secured sewing.
• No of needle: One or sometime two
• Stitch density: maximum 5mm.
• SPM: 1500-5500.
• Different types of feed mechanisms are used in this m/c.(e.g. puller feed, top & bottom feed,
compound feed, differential feed)
• Some lock stitch is provided with automatic bobbin winder & automatic thread trimmer.
• Some lock stitch m/c is also provided with preprogramming device & also does the following
functions:
i. Selvedge sensing & stitching in a straight line.
ii. A thread sensor which sense that minimum amount of thread in the bobbin & gives signal.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
2. Chain stitch m/c:
• The machines which form chain stitch with one or more threads are called chain stitch
m/c.
• No of needles: One or more
• Stitch length: 1.5mm - 4.5mm
• Some m/c has automatic thread trimmings system.
• Different types of feed mechanism can be used.
• Used for both woven & knitted fabric & also heavy fabric like jeans or denim.
3. Over lock m/c:
• No of needle: One or multiple needle is used
• No of threads: 2-5threads are used
• Maximum stitch length is 4mm, but it can easily be adjusted by using push button system.
• SPM: 6500-8500
• Edge trimmer knife is available in front of the needle.
• The m/c is used for both woven & knitted fabrics.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
4. Zigzag Lock stitching m/c:
• This is the special modification of lock stitch m/c.
• No of needle is one but sewing is created by two sewing threads.
• Stitch density: 5-10mm
• Stitch length: 2-2.5mm
• SPM: 5500
• Zigzag stitch is occurred.
• This m/c is used for edge stitching of the fabric i.e. when selvedge is required.
• For decorative purpose in which joining of elastic, pipe, braid, and so on with the fabric is required.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
5. Flat lock m/c:
• This is a special type of m/c.
• Up to four needles can be used.
• Stitching can be done by using 4 - 9 threads.
• Stitch density: 8-16per inch
. SPM: 6000
• Very expensive m/c.
• Thread consumption of this m/c is very high.
• Hence for 1" length of sewing, thread consumption may be required 32".
• Used for knitted garments. But it can be also used for woven garments.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
6. Blind stitch m/c:
• Special type of sewing m/c & very expensive.
• Special type of sewing is formed i.e. stitches are not seen on the face side of the fabric.
• Curved needle is used.
• Fabric penetration by the curved needle is partial.
• Stitch length: 3-8mm
• SPM: 2500
• This m/c is used for attaching hemming where the less force is required.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
7. Simple automatic sewing machines:
Some machines are found to sew for special purposes such as, button hole machine, button attaching
machine, bartak machine and so on. In these machines, the predetermined work is done by cyclic order
that is why called simple automatic sewing machine. The followings are the description of some simple
automatic sewing machines:
a. Button hole m/c:
• It is a simple automatic m/c.
• Easy adjustment of hole size & stitch density.
• For heavy fabric, hole is cut before sewing.
• For lighter fabric, hole is cut after sewing.
• Special type of thread is used for sewing.
• To raise the stitch is called Gimp.
• Stitch type: lock or chain stitch may be used.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
b. Button attaching m/c:
• It is a simple automatic m/c.
• Button positioning can be automatic.
• Sewing is according to the hole in button & may be cross or parallel.
• Automatic feeding of the button.
• Stitch type: lock or chain stitch may be used.
c. Bartak m/c:
• Simple automatic sewing m/c.
• It is used for heavy sewing is small predetermined length.
• It is a cyclic operation.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
Formation of 301 lock stitch by fully rotating hook:
Where, 1-needle, 2-hook, 3-spool, 4-thread take-up lever, 5-toothed rack or feed dog, 6-tensioning device of the
top thread, 7-spool of the top thread, A-top thread, B-bottom thread.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
a) Needle penetrates the material & goes its lower most position. As needle rises upward it
forms a loop with needle thread which is caught by a hook.
b) Bobbin holder hook carries thread loop around and under the bobbin case as in fig two.
While the needle continuous going upward.
c) Top thread half way around the bobbin.
d) Top thread is almost all the way around the bobbin.
e) When almost one complete rotation is complete, hook release the needle thread and
interlacement between the needle thread & bobbin thread occurs.
f) Needle with needle thread reaches its top most position & the take-up lever tightens the
stitch into the material. The material is fed forward by the feed dog.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
Different parts of domestic lock stitch sewing machine:
The basic structure of sewing machine is the same whether it is hand-operated sewing, treadle sewing
machine or electric sewing machine. The basic parts of a sewing are listed below and seen in Fig.1
Fig. 1 Parts of a Sewing Machine
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
1. Spool pin: It is fitted on top of the arm to hold the reel.
2. Thread guide: It holds the thread in position from the spool to the needle.
3. Tension disc: The two concave discs put together with the convex sides facing each other. The thread
passes between the two. The tension of the thread is adjusted by a spring and nut which increases or
decreases pressure
4. Take up lever: It is a lever fitted to the body of the arm. It’s up and down motion feeds the thread to the
needle and tightens the loop formed by the shuttle.
5. Needle bar: This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end with the help of a clamp. Its main function is
to give motion to the needle.
6. Bobbin case: This moves into position to catch the top thread and form the stitch as the needle is lowered
into the bobbin chamber.
7. Presser foot: It is fixed to the presser bar to hold the cloth firmly in position when lowered.
8. Presser foot lifter: A lever attached to the presser bar for raising and lowering the presser foot.
9. Stitch regulator: This controls the length of the stitch.
Md. Mazharul Islam, Asst. Prof., DTE, NUB
Lecture 10: Sewing Machine
10. Bobbin winder: A simple mechanism used for winding thread on the bobbin.
11. Fly Wheel: When this is made to revolve, it works the mechanism of the motion
12. Clutch or Thumb Screw: This is in the center of the fly wheel and it engages and disengages the
stitching mechanism.
13. Slide Plate: A rectangular plate, which facilitates the removal of the bobbin case without lifting
the machine.
14. Needle Plate or Throat Plate: A semi-circular disc with a hole to allow the needle to pass
through it.
15. Feed dog: This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate. It helps to move the cloth
forward while sewing.
16. Face plate: A cover which on removal gives access to the oiling points on the needle bar, presser
bar and take-up lever.
17. Spool pin for bobbin winding: Spool of thread is placed on this at the time of bobbin winding.
