420 Apparel Manufacturing Technology
19.3 MERCHANDISER AND MERCHANDISING
An individual who is associated with merchandising activity is called a mer-
chandiser. The merchandiser synchronises with the design team to success-
fully exhibit the product (Tyler 1992; Kunz 2005). He or she creates colours and
specifications and carries out the market research to decide the most effec-
tual ways to sell and promote the product. Excellent communication, ability
to negotiate and analytical competences are essential qualities required for a
merchandiser. Further, he or she also desires to be a creative and innovative
thinker. The qualities required for the merchandiser are shown in Figure
19.1. He or she should be able to plan meticulously and control the operations
involved in production of products, sourcing them and dispatching them to
the customer on time.
A merchandiser should be partially a designer able to think creatively,
partly an engineer able to develop the product, partly a computer expert
able to communicate online, partly a marketer able to market and sell the
product, and partly an entrepreneur. According to Theory on Merchandising,
Myer defines merchandising as ‘Careful planning, capable styling and
production or selecting and buying, and effective selling’ (Diamond 2000).
Analytical Creative
Merchandiser
Verbal Intuitive
FIGURE 19.1
Myers theory on merchandising.
Garment Merchandising 421
19.3.1 Qualities of Merchandiser
• Planning capability: Merchandiser must be competent enough to plan
the activities based on the order that is to be followed. Otherwise, it
will directly affect the delivery time of the order.
• Decision making: It is a very important quality required for the mer-
chandiser to deliver the product on time to buyers.
• Communication skills: Oral as well as written communication are
important to endorse the business activity as well as to have a good
relationship with the buyers.
• Loyalty: It is a crucial character of human beings, particularly for
business persons.
• Technical knowledge about the field: The merchandiser must have ample
knowledge about the garment production activities, and technical
knowledge to communicate with different levels of persons in the
apparel industry.
• Coordinate and cooperate: The merchandiser is the person who coor-
dinates with the various departments in an apparel industry to get
the job done.
• Monitoring ability: He or she must supervise the various activities in
different departments to speed up the orders to dispatch it on time
to the buyers.
19.3.2 Function of Merchandisers
1. Development of new garment styles and samples and execution of
the same
2. Garment costing based on the order
3. Arrangement of raw materials, accessories and trims for execution
of an order
4. Production scheduling
5. Approval of patterns and various samples
6. Follow up of preproduction activities
7. Coordinating with inspection agencies
8. Production controlling
9. Identification of bottlenecks in the process and materials and resolve
the same
422 Apparel Manufacturing Technology
10. Monitoring of in-house production activities as well as follow-up of
subcontract work given outside
11. Reporting the progress of orders to the buyer as well as top
management
12. Maintenance of proper records for individual garment styles
13. Ensuring constant production rate by taking preventive as well as
corrective actions
14. Attending meetings with superiors and furnishing the required
details about merchandising
19.3.3 Types of Garment Merchandising
19.3.3.1 Fashion Merchandising
It includes all the activities beginning from fashion forecasting, design and
development of product to retail activity and this also comprises produc-
tion as well as retail merchandising. Fashion merchandise consists of items
of retail merchandise that have ornamental value either with or without
having any functional value. It includes predominantly items of apparel
because they can all be ornamental as well as functional (Chuter 1995;
Evelyn 1999; Stone 2001; Glock and Kunz 2004). The meadow of fashion
merchandising exists to service the designer and customer relationship.
The process flow of a fashion merchandiser is shown in Figure 19.2.
19.3.3.1.1 Fashion Forecasting
It demonstrates/directs the apparel industry for new fashion presentation
for the forthcoming season, thus it can recognise new fashion concepts, and
the retail store’s merchandising approach.
19.3.3.1.2 Design Development
The design is created in light of themes utilising the components of design,
namely, colour, texture, shape and implementing the principles of fashion
such as proportion, balance and harmony. The design development must be
practical which collects the current fashion trends and also viable to convert
them into a finished garment.
19.3.3.1.3 Sample Development
The collection of designs developed by the fashion designers and the designs
that have excellent prospects should be selected and taken for sample devel-
opment process.
19.3.3.1.4 Product Specification
The specifications with regard to the particular product or style could be
helpful in setting the product specification for the particular style of garment.
Garment Merchandising 423
Fashion forecasting
Design development
Sample planning
Product specification
Merchandise planning
Buying
FIGURE 19.2
Process flow of a fashion merchandiser.
It will direct the production department in the industry to develop and plan
their merchandising activities and production planning and organise the
thing for effective and efficient production of the merchandise.
19.3.3.1.5 Merchandising Plan or Policy
It is a long range criterion for fashion buying and selling also for associated
activities such as sales promotion. Merchandising plans are planned quite a
few months ahead of the selling season.
19.3.3.1.6 Buying
It is a very vital task of fashion merchandising because it is the real process
of manufacturing the product and displaying it for the sales at retail stores.
A buyer’s task consists of both the buying and selling features of retailing.
19.3.3.2 Apparel Export Merchandising
It could be defined as all the planning as well as activities involved from the
buyer communication and order receiving to the dispatch of the product by
fulfilling the subsequent factors:
• Right merchandise: Retailers should fill their shelves with the mer-
chandise that the customer needs.
424 Apparel Manufacturing Technology
• Right place: The place/location of the merchandise is of significance
as it decides the ease of access.
• Right time: Since the majority of the merchandise is based on seasons
and seasonal based changes in fashion and the related requirements
should be on hand when it is mainly needed.
• Right quantity: A lucrative balance between volume of sales and
quantity of inventory is the required objective.
• Right price: Merchandiser could arrive at a cost that is adequate to
provide the retail store profit and yet low enough to meet the com-
petition and customer’s expectations.
• Right promotion: Correct balance between the investment and the
demand created for the customers.
19.4 Merchandising Workflow
The work activities of a merchandiser will include the following:
• Examining the buyer requirement, understanding and communicat-
ing them to the specific departments and exhibiting the product to
the buyers they need.
• Confirming the quality during production as well as ensuring
timely delivery of an order.
• Developing a time and action (TNA) calendar for completing the
schedules of various activities like cutting, sewing, finishing, dis-
patch etc. The WIP (work in progress) and the status of the order
have to be monitored by the merchandisers regularly.
• Coordinating and tracking the sourcing activities and confirming
that all the raw materials and accessories are delivered on time.
• Follow-up of postshipment activities to keep a long-term relation-
ship with the buyer.
• Accompanying the buyers on visits to manufacturers to understand
production processes.
• Meeting with suppliers for negotiating the cost and handling of
stocks.
• Ascertaining the difficulties related to production and supply of an
order and dealing with it when they occur.
• A preproduction meeting (PPM) is held among staff in the garment
industry to discuss the style, trims, construction etc. if there are fur-
ther clarifications, an external PPM is held with the QC, merchan-
diser, and buyer.
Garment Merchandising 425
Make contact with buyer
Obtain order
Do costing for that particular style
Negotiation with buyer
Order fabric and trims
Receiving bulk fabrics and trims
Send samples to production
Supervising the order till shipment
FIGURE 19.3
Merchandising workflow.
The general merchandising workflow is shown in Figure 19.3 (Davis and
Nancy 2002).
19.5 Merchandising Process Flow
The merchandising process flow is shown in Figure 19.4.
19.6 General Merchandising Process
19.6.1 Order Enquiry
This is the first step where the buyers have an enquiry with the merchan-
diser about a new order.
426 Apparel Manufacturing Technology
Start
Obtain tech pack from buyer
Costing Sampling
Analyze fabric Analyze cost Obtain general Develop sample
consumption of trims and sewing data from as per the tech
from CAD fabric IED pack
Prepare cost sheet from Develop proto
sample sample
Cost sheet and sample sent to buyer for approval
Conformation of Yes No Cost sheet
Approval
order reworking
Obtain PCD and Source trims and Book washing Obtain GSD
details from fabric from and embroidery from IED
production unit concerned dept. capacity if req.
Execution of order by entering details in ERP
Prepare samples as per buyer requirements
Forward the samples to buyer for approval
Hold preproduction Comments received from
meeting with the Approval buyer should be
production unit incorporated and fit sample
reworking
Execute Follow up with Submit Offer Follow up
bulk order production required garments for on the End
departments and documents to final payments
update the buyer documentation inspection for goods
department
FIGURE 19.4
Merchandising process flow.
Garment Merchandising 427
19.6.2 Forwarding Tech Pack
After the order enquiry has been completed, the buyer will send a ‘specifi-
cation sheet or tech pack’ to the merchant. It covers all the details of a par-
ticular product style such as product style design, measurement details of
garment, type of fabric and construction, style code of a product, surface
ornamentation details if any etc.
19.6.3 Product Development
After the receipt of specification sheet (tech pack), the merchandisers have to
organise the information provided in the specification sheet in a single format
by categorising different product styles and their details. Consequently, the
merchandiser should provide proper instructions to the junior merchandiser
about the product style and hence he or she could assist the sample coordi-
nators to prepare the development samples from the sampling department.
19.6.4 Approval of Development Samples
When the development samples are prepared, two or three samples have to
be sent to the buyer for its approval. The main objective of a development
sample is to realise how the particular style of garment looks with the specific
details. These samples are prepared with the available fabric in the industry
similar to the exact requirement. In the development sample, surface embel-
lishments and fit analysis are followed as per the specification sheet.
19.6.5 Costing
Once the development sample is approved by the buyer, then the costing has
to be done taking into account various costs incurred to produce a garment.
It contains various factors such as
• Fabric cost
• Trims and accessories cost
• CMT (cut-make-trim)
• Finishing or washing cost
• Bank charges
• Buffer value
• Miscellaneous costs such as rejection cost, wastage etc.
19.6.6 Order Placement
After the determination of a garment cost which is also approved by the
buyer, then the buyer will place the order with the necessary quantity of
order and other main details to the merchant.
428 Apparel Manufacturing Technology
19.6.7 Order of Fabric and Trims
After the conformation of the order by the buyer, the merchandiser can
place the order for requisite fabric by considering various parameters such
as colour, GSM, weave structure etc., which is necessary for the specific gar-
ment style. The requirements are forwarded by the merchandiser to the pur-
chase department and they will place the orders.
19.6.8 Lab Dip
The lab dips for a particular garment style, containing many shades of the
fabric colour which the buyer is asked have to be sent to the buyer for the
approval before going for further production.
19.6.9 Fit Sample
The fit garment sample is made after the development sample is approved
by the buyer. The fit sample is generally produced in a medium size and
with original fabric to check the fit. All the measurements should be veri-
fied as per the specification sheet. After checking the fit sample, the buyer
returns the fit approvals sheet which comprises all the actual measure-
ments and deviation in the garment has occurred for the purpose of cor-
rection. The order is confirmed only after the approval of the fit sample by
the buyer.
19.6.10 Preproduction Samples
After the approval of fit samples, the preproduction (PP) samples (otherwise
known as red seal samples) have to be produced. The red seal sample, which
has to be produced as per the buyer’s requirement, should have all the speci-
fications of the particular style with the original or exact fabric, trims, colour,
surface ornamentation etc. Two or three garment samples in each size (S, M,
L, XL) have to be sent to the buyer for approval and the buyer can advise on
any corrections if required.
19.6.11 Size Set Samples
These size set samples are prepared for the intension of inspection of
various sizes of the same style with respect to measurements, fit, styling
etc. Further, the size set samples are produced to verify whether the
assigned unit is capable of producing the specific garment style as per
the requirements and specifications in all the sizes (Fairhurst 2008). The
work flow of sampling during the merchandising process is shown in
Figure 19.5.
Garment Merchandising 429
Buyer’s sample/information
Requisition prepared by merchandiser
Sampling department
Development sample
Fit sample
Buyer
comments
Preproduction samples
Size set samples
FIGURE 19.5
Workflow of sampling.
19.6.12 Preproduction Meeting (PPM)
After all the size set samples are approved by the buyers and all raw mate-
rials are organised in the stores, then the bulk production of the garment
style can be started. A preproduction meeting should be organised by the
merchandiser prior to bulk production with the production manager and
other department heads to plan the production process to evade any delays
in target time.
19.6.13 Hand-Over the Production File to
Production Planning and Control
The production file comprising all the information of a particular garment
style has to be prepared by the merchandiser. It is then forwarded to CPC
along with the approved preproduction samples which are further for-
warded to PPC after examination of the file by the CPC. Some of the details
in the production file include the following items:
• Measurements for the specific garment style
• Export order sheet
• Colour details of the fabric and trims
430 Apparel Manufacturing Technology
• Brief description of style
• Type of packing required
• Instructions related to print/embroidery
• Material requirement sheet
• Job details for CAD and fabric order
• Marker plan
• TNA order sheet
• 2D style diagram and trims
• Packing information
19.6.14 Ensuring the Availability of Fabrics and Trims
After the receipt of the production file, the PPC have to study and check
every detail in the file related to the particular garment style and simultane-
ously have to check the availability of the particular fabric and trims in the
store.
19.6.15 Inspecting the Surface Ornamentation of the Particular Style
Surface embellishment may consist of embroidery, printing or appliqué and
these are made as per the requirements of the buyer; hence, the PPC depart-
ment should check the ornamentation details and plans accordingly to com-
plete the same.
19.6.16 Checking the Status of Stitching Materials In-House
Sewing accessories are materials that are used for sewing such as sewing
threads and accessories that assist production. Hence, simultaneously the
merchandiser has to make arrangements for the stitching materials in-house.
19.6.17 Checking the Patterns with Master
The production file includes all the information about the patterns and the
merchandiser has to forward the original patterns alongside with the pro-
duction file to the production planning and control department. Once they
receive the patterns, they will forward the patterns to the pattern master in
the department and he or she will check the pattern and confirm the same.
19.6.18 Grading and Final Cross Check of Patterns
After inspection of all the patterns of different product styles by the pattern
master, it is forwarded to the automatic grading section or manual grad-
ing section in the industry. Grading is a process of proportionately increas-
ing or decreasing the sizes from the basic one. Finally, the graded pattern
Garment Merchandising 431
should be inspected and confirmed by the pattern master before going for
further process.
19.6.19 Spreading and Cutting
It is the process of arranging fabrics on the spreading table as per length and
width of the marker in stack form which has to be carried out carefully with-
out any wrinkles or tension in the fabric. After spreading is completed, the
patterns are placed over the top layer of the spread as per the marker plan
and the plies are cut using a straight knife and band knife cutting machines.
After cutting is completed, the cut components of the garment are sorted and
bundled.
19.6.20 Garment Wash
In some specific cases, the cut components will go for washing as per the
specification sheet or buyer requirement.
19.6.21 Fabric Printing/Embroidery
After the completion of garment washing, the bundles could be sent for
printing/embroidery if required for the specific style. Surface ornamenta-
tions should be carried out on cut garment panels as it minimises the risk of
destroying the entire garment if some defects occur during printing.
19.6.22 Loading the Order in the Production Line
After the surface embellishment is completed on cut components, the bun-
dles are moved on to the sewing department as per the production plan. In
the sewing section, the bundles are allotted to each worker as per his or her
work and the sewing process moves from one end to the other end where the
complete garment is assembled in a line.
19.6.23 Finishing
After the complete garment is assembled and inspected at the end of the
each line, it is forwarded to the finishing section where the following opera-
tions will be carried out:
• Inspection: For any defects and stains
• Trimming: Protruding threads are removed to provide a neat
appearance to the garment
• Ironing: To remove or introduce crease marks in the garment
• Packing: The finished garments are folded and packed in the poly-
thene covers
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19.6.24 Dispatch
Dispatch is the final process in which the garments are generally packed in
wooden cartons with the dimensions specified by the buyer and shipped to
the buyer.
19.7 Documents to be Maintained by the Merchandiser
19.7.1 Production Order (PO)
A production order comprises all the information needed by the PPC depart-
ment to generate a line loading plan and it should be available for each style
of every buyer. The production order consists of the description of style and
style number, sizes, order quantity, quantity for each size, fabric consump-
tion, specifications of interlining and trims, packing instructions, label speci-
fications, etc.
19.7.2 Bill of Materials (BOM)
From the PO, the requisite quantity of fabric and trims could be determined
for a single product which is then multiplied by the number of shirts being
produced. The required quantities are given as a bill of materials for various
trims such as sewing threads, buttons, zippers and cuff links. The BOM is
issued to the store to get the required amount of trims.
19.7.3 Specification Sheet/Tech Pack
This form is vital for the execution of any order. It consists of all the tech-
nical information regarding the specific garment style such as fabric, toler-
ances, interlining details etc. for the style processing (Jarnow and Dickerson
1996). It provides necessary information required for various departments.
For example, for the cutting department documents such as marker plan-
ning, marker consumption etc. and for the sewing department, details such
as construction details, measurements etc. are provided by the tech pack.
The specification sheet along with the PO form is issued to all the sections
in the industry while the style is moving from one department to another.
19.7.4 Order Status Report
In this order status report, all the styles and their diverse activities are
updated in an Excel work sheet and is retained by the senior merchandisers.
Therefore, he or she could easily track the current progress of a particular
style.
Garment Merchandising 433
19.8 Apparel Retail Merchandiser
The retail business entails dividing a smaller part from a large good or a
product and selling it to the consumers. Retail merchandising consists of
all the operations associated with direct selling of products or even services
to the consumers of a particular product. The retail merchandiser sells the
products in small quantities and coordinates as an intermediary between
the wholesaler and consumers (Kiell and Maynard 2001; Kunz 2005). The
process flow of retail merchandising is shown in Figure 19.6.
19.8.1 Functions of a Retail Merchandiser
• Providing personal services to all required consumers.
• Giving two-way information such as from producer to consumer
and vice versa.
• Assisting in standardisation and grading of products.
Analyzing the customers
Store’s fashion image
Merchandising policies
Receiving and stocking
Display
Sales promotion
Customer services
Retail selling
Sales evaluation
FIGURE 19.6
Apparel retail merchandising process.
434 Apparel Manufacturing Technology
• Undertaking transportation and storage of products.
• Assembling various products from different suppliers and
wholesalers.
• Keeping adequate stock of various products to supply to consumers.
• Providing credit facilities to the consumers.
• Drawing the consumer’s attention by bestowing a window display
of products, conducting fashion events etc.
• Carrying out marketing activities.
• Assuming risk by stocking and providing goods to consumers.
19.8.2 Tasks of a Retail Merchandiser
19.8.2.1 Analysing the Local Customers
Sales in a particular retail store could be influenced by various factors
such as
• The geographical location of the store
• The population content of the area
• The social activities that the area offers
• The economical conditions and level of the local population
• The fashion influences of the particular population
19.8.2.2 Selection of a Fashion Image
Each retail store has to create a retail image in the mind set of custom-
ers irrespective of whether the retail store wants it. A retail merchandiser
should create his or her own store’s image which could draw the attention
of customers.
19.8.2.3 Buying the Fashion Merchandise
It is challenging work as it demands a huge amount of activities such as bud-
get planning, merchandise selection, supplier selection etc. Further, it is also
important to decide on the quality of the products to be ordered.
19.8.2.4 Receiving and Stocking the Merchandise
After the arrival of ordered goods at the retail stores, it should be inspected
vigilantly for the quantities against the packing list or shipping invoice sent
by the supplier. The quantity of the products/goods received at the retail
store should be inspected prior to display or selling.
Garment Merchandising 435
19.8.2.5 Display
The manner in which the merchandise/product is displayed in the retail
store is significant for sale of goods. Better showcasing of goods always
boosts the sales of the retail store and vice versa. The store’s image is based
on the principle of use of space for display.
19.8.2.6 Sales Promotion
It is a vital process for successful marketing and sale of a product in the
store. It refers to promotion of sale of merchandise, ideas or services. It con-
tains activities such as advertising, publicity, fashion shows, personal sell-
ing, visual displays, special events etc.
19.8.2.7 Sales Evaluation
After the completion of the selling season, the retail store has to analyse the
sales of the goods in the particular season. This consists of analysing the sales
by style, product, size and colour, fast sold goods, unsold items, price line, etc.
19.9 Performance Measurement Tools for Merchandising
Performance measurement is a technique of gathering and reporting infor-
mation concerning the performance of an individual or organisations.
Contrasting to the manufacturing process where task activities are small
enough to have repeatability; hence, it follows the work measurement prin-
ciple. Merchandising activities have a long duration and follow a project
management principle (Stone 2001; Sumathi 2002; Tate 2004).
19.9.1 Enquiry Response Time
It is the time interval between the enquiries to the buyer for the order to the
confirmation of the order. A response must be sent within 24 hours or the
next working day. A costing request should be replied to within 48 hours
with possible alternatives.
Enquiries replied within time frame
Enquiry response time = × 100
Total enquiries replied
19.9.2 Sample Acceptance Percentage
This represents the capacity of the design team in a garment industry in
realising the buyer’s tastes, costs and the trends of the current season.
