Chapter 2: General Construction Procedures
Preparing Site
Grade Building Site to level BEFORE doing any construction.
Ideally a prepared site will be 10 feet beyond building footprint in all directions. From highest
point, ten feet away from building, grade should slope up to actual “pad” no less than six
inches.
To allow proper drainage plan to keep building grade higher than surrounding site. On an
ideal site, water drains naturally away from building. Since few sites are ideal, in most cases,
grade work will be required to keep surface water away from building. Keeping finished build-
ing floor higher than surrounding site reduces flooding chances during heavy rainfall or rapid
snowmelt.
In flood plains, consult first with your building department to determine their requirements.
Typical recommendation is to establish grade level at finished floor top higher than flood
level. This may require importing fill to raise grade. A surveyor can be hired to expertly deter-
mine these heights. In some cases, code approved flood vents may be installed, below flood
level, to equalize interior and exterior pressures.
Many sites can be graded with a skid steer or backhoe. Some cases will require heavy equip-
ment to properly grade site to allow water to drain away from building. If engaging a profes-
sional for site grading, make certain finished grade was adequately prepared before making
final payment. In far too many cases supposedly “flat” sites being out of level have been ex-
perienced by disappointed owners.
At a minimum, site preparation includes:
· Remove all sod and vegetation.
· For ideal site preparation, remove topsoil and stockpile for later use in finish grading. In frost
prone areas, remove any clay or silty soil from within future building “footprint”.
· Replace subsoil removed from around building with granulated fill to help drain subsurface
water from building.
· Distribute all fill, large debris free (no pit run), uniformly around site in layers no deeper
than six inches.
· Compact each layer to a minimum 90% Modified Proctor Density before adding
next layer. It is recommended to invest in a Geotechnical (soils) Engineer to test
to confirm correct compaction. Adequate compaction takes more than driving
over fill with a dump truck, or earth moving equipment. Properly compacted fill
can be treated as if it was undisturbed native soil.
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If building on expansive soils (such as clay) it is recommended to increase hole
depth to at least six (6) times hole diameter (ex. 9’ deep for 18” hole, 12’ deep for 24” hole).
Added hole depth should be back-filled with concrete.
When any building portion sits on non-compacted fill, rest columns, as well as any concrete
encasement, on or in undisturbed soil. In many cases, building inspectors will require a
Geotechnical Engineer to confirm compaction adequacy on filled sites. Geotechnical Engi-
neers can be expensive, but are even more costly when called in to do analysis “after the
fact”. Your building’s E.O.R. is, as a practicality matter, unable to visit sites; therefore will be
unable to perform or provide any soils or other similar reports, design retaining walls or any
other work beyond building shell.
Soil compaction is defined as a method of mechanically increasing soil density. In construc-
tion, this is a significant part of your building process. If performed improperly, soil settlement
could occur and result in unnecessary maintenance costs or structure failure. Almost all build-
ing site types and construction projects utilize mechanical compaction techniques.
So what actually is soil? Soil is formed in place or deposited by various natural forces – such
as glaciers, wind, lakes and rivers – residual or organically. Important elements in soil com-
paction are soil type, soil moisture content and compaction effort required.
There are five principle reasons to compact soil: to increase load-bearing capacity, prevent
soil settlement and frost damage, provide stability, reduce water seepage, swelling and con-
traction and reduce soil settling.
Soil can be compacted by vibration, impact, kneading or pressure. These different com-
paction efforts can be accomplished by main types of compaction force, static or vibratory.
Static force is simply machine dead weight, applying downward force on soil surface, com-
pressing soil particles. Only way to change effective compaction force is by adding or sub-
tracting machine weight. Static compaction is confined to upper soil layers and is limited to
any appreciable depth. Kneading and pressure are two static compaction examples.
Vibratory force uses a mechanism, usually engine-driven, to create a downward force in ad-
dition to machine’s static weight. This vibrating mechanism is usually a rotating eccentric
weight or piston/spring combination (in rammers). These compactors deliver a rapid se-
quence of blows (impacts) to soil surface, thereby affecting top layers as well as deeper lay-
ers. Vibration moves through material, setting particles in motion and moving them closer
together for highest density possible. Based on materials being compacted, a certain force
must be used to overcome cohesive nature of particular particles.
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Poor, improper or no compaction can result in concrete slab cracks or frost heaves, founda-
tion erosion and/or building settling. Proper compaction can ensure a longer structural life.
Every soil type behaves differently with respect to maximum density and optimum mois-
ture. Therefore, each soil type has its own unique requirements and controls both in field and
for testing purposes. Soil types are commonly classified by grain size, determined by pass-
ing soil through a series of sieves to screen or separate different grain sizes. Soils found in
nature are almost always a combination of soil types. A well graded soil consists of a wide
range of particle sizes with smaller particles filling voids between larger particles. Result is a
dense structure lending itself well to compaction. A soil’s makeup determines best com-
paction method to use. There are three basic soil groups: cohesive, granular and organic. Or-
ganic soils are not suitable for compaction.
Cohesive soils, such as clay or silts have smallest particles. Cohesive soils are dense and
tightly bound together by molecular attraction. They are plastic when wet and can be
molded, but become very hard when dry. Cohesive soils feel smooth and greasy when
rubbed between fingers. Clay soils are less than ideal to construct your new post frame build-
ing upon and should be removed and replaced.
Granular soils range in particle size from .003″ to .08″ (sand) and .08″ to 1.0″ (fine to medium
gravel). Granular soils are known for their water-draining properties. Sand and gravel obtain
maximum density in either a fully dry or saturated state. Granular soils feel gritty when
rubbed between fingers. When water and granular soils are shaken in palm of your hand,
they will mix, when shaking stops, they will separate. When dry, a soil sample will crumble.
Gravel and sand can be compacted either by vibration (using a vibrating plate compactor, vi-
brating roller or vibrating sheepsfoot) or kneading with pressure (using a scraper, rubber tired
roller, loader or grid roller). Both are good to excellent in terms of foundation support and as a
subgrade. They are easy to compact and are not expansive (expansive soils tend to be prone
to frost heave issues).
Response of soil to moisture is very important, as soil must carry loads year-round. Rain, for
example, may transform soil into a plastic state or even into a liquid. In this state, soil has
very little or no load-bearing ability.
Soil moisture content is vital to proper compaction. Moisture acts as a lubricant within soil,
sliding particles together. Too little moisture means inadequate compaction – particles can-
not move past each other to achieve density. Too much moisture leaves water-filled voids
and subsequently weakens load-bearing ability. Highest density for most soils is at a certain
water content for a given compaction effort. Drier soil is more resistant to compaction. In a
water-saturated state voids between particles are partially filled with water, creating an appar-
ent cohesion binding them together. This cohesion increases as particle size decreases (as
in clay-type soils).
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To determine if proper soil compaction is achieved for any specific construction application,
several methods were developed. Most prominent by far is soil density.
Soil testing accomplishes the following: measures density of soil for comparing degree of
compaction vs. specifications for structure to be built; measures effect of moisture on soil
density vs. specifications; and provides a moisture density curve identifying optimum mois-
ture content.
Tests to determine optimum soil moisture content are done in a laboratory. Most common is
a Proctor Test, or Modified Proctor Test. A particular soil needs to have an ideal (or opti-
mum) amount of moisture to achieve maximum density. This is important not only for dura-
bility, but will save money because less compaction effort is needed to achieve desired re-
sults.
A quick method of determining moisture is known as a “Hand Test”.
Pick up a handful of soil. Squeeze it in your hand. Open your hand. If soil is powdery and
will not retain shape made by your hand, it is too dry. If it shatters when dropped, it is too dry.
If soil is moldable and breaks into only a couple of pieces when dropped, it has right amount
of moisture for proper compaction. If soil is plastic in your hand, leaves traces of moisture on
your fingers and stays in one piece when dropped, it has too much moisture for compaction.
Proctor, or Modified Proctor Test, determines maximum density of a soil needed for a specific
job site. This test first determines maximum density achievable for materials and uses this
figure as a reference. Secondly, it tests effects of moisture on soil density. This soil refer-
ence value is expressed as a percentage of density. These values are determined before
any compaction takes place to develop compaction specifications. Modified Proctor values
are higher because they take into account higher densities needed for certain types of con-
struction projects. Test methods are similar for both tests.
When hired, a soils engineer will probably perform either a sand cone or a nuclear density
test. In sand cone, a small hole (6″ x 6″ deep) is dug in compacted material to be tested. Soil
is removed and weighed, then dried and weighed again to determine its moisture content. A
soil’s moisture is figured as a percentage. Hole’s specific volume is determined by filling it
with calibrated dry sand from a jar and cone device. Dry weight of soil removed is divided by
volume of sand needed to fill hole. This gives us density of compacted soil in pounds per cu-
bic foot. This density is compared to maximum Proctor density obtained earlier, giving us rel-
ative density of just compacted soil.
Nuclear Density meters are a quick and fairly accurate way of determining density and mois-
ture content. Meter uses a radioactive isotope source (Cesium 137) at soil surface
(backscatter) or from a probe placed into soil (direct transmission). Isotope source gives off
photons (usually Gamma rays) radiating back to meter’s detectors on unit bottom. Dense soil
absorbs more radiation than loose soil and readings reflect overall density. Water content
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can also be read, all within a few minutes. A relative Proctor density with compaction results
from this test.
Soil modulus or soil stiffness test is a field-test method is a very recent development replac-
ing soil density testing. Soil stiffness is a ratio of force-to-displacement. Testing is done by a
machine sending vibrations into soil and then measuring deflection of soil from vibra-
tions. This is a very fast, safe method of testing soil stiffness. Soil stiffness is desired engi-
neering property, not just dry density and water content.
Be certain to know local Building Department requirements before starting to move
dirt.
In many jurisdictions, a separate grading permit may be required. In some cases a building
permit must be issued prior to moving soil. Get started on right foot with permit authorities –
ask first before digging!
Also, prior to doing any excavation call 811. This is a free service to mark underground
utilities. Property owners and contractors can be held financially liable if they fail to locate un-
derground utilities (like gas, electric, telephone, cable, water) and damage them in any way
(besides a potential for causing severe injury or death).
Below photo – column hole dug without calling for a locate.
Grade and compact actual building “footprint” area as level as reasonably possible prior to
beginning construction.
Create an adequate work area. At a minimum clear at least ten feet beyond each building
side. Building Codes (IRC R401.3 and IBC 1804.4) require non-impervious areas beyond
building perimeter be graded away from building with a minimum 5% slope to drain surface
water away in all directions. A 5% slope is a 6 inch drop in 10 feet.
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Building Plans
Before printing building plans, Hansen Pole Buildings will make them available, online, for
your review. Everything from invoice/order confirmation and signed door location sheet ap-
pears on plans. Please compare invoice items to plans thoroughly. In event unclear as to how
to open and review plans, request help. Review building plans promptly and either approve or
advise as to any requested corrections.
We repeatedly emphasize thoroughly and carefully review all building
plans, instructions and material takeoff lists prior to beginning construc-
tion.
Any deviation from building plans places responsibility for building’s
structural integrity squarely upon you.
A professional has designed your new Hansen Building. Rely upon
their experience.
Cost to purchase “additional” materials and/or engineering if building is built other
than according to building plans is your responsibility (or between you and your building
contractor in event one has been hired).
Rules For Reading Building Plans
Never, we repeat, never “scale” a blueprint, as lines may be stretched or shrunk dur-
ing printing process. Written dimensions on plans take precedence over any drawings.
Sometimes lumber grade or size determines girt or purlin number and spacing. If there is
more than one lumber grade listed on building plans, match lumber received to appropriate
wording on plans. Trusses are drawn as depictions on plans, actual engineer sealed draw-
ings will be available in client login.
E.O.R.’s structural review will establish actual required size, grade and spacing for members
and connections. These all will be spelled out in writing on building plans.
Pay careful attention to girt and purlin grade and spacing. In many cases they will be at spac-
ing other than 24” on center.
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There may be isolated instances when wainscot, eave lights, an entry door or window height
or location may, due to installation practicality, require a slight spacing deviation from indica-
tions on building plans. For this reason, as construction progresses, compare with actual ma-
terials provided, to avoid having to redo work performed, or purchase extra materials.
BL on building plans denotes “Building Line”. Used in cases where measures are
made from building column “outside” edges. CL denotes “center line” measure. Can
be applied to building columns, or other sub-components.
PLAN DETAIL NUMBERS (ex. 7-5/S-1) top value will correspond to a Figure in this Manual,
allowing you or your builder to check for further information or installation tips.
If anyone, including any building department plan checker, field inspector, other offi-
cial, or a contractor, makes any changes or deviations from provided building plans we ad-
vise to obtain a signed statement reflecting they have now become “designer of record”. In
effect, they have assumed all liability for building’s structural design. Again, any deviation
from building plans relieves Hansen Pole Buildings, building designer or E.O.R. from all
structural responsibility.
While building plans have been reviewed by many eyes (including yours), prior to
printing, a potential for inadvertent error exists, however small. If finding an apparent conflict
between Emailed plans, printed building plans and/or this construction manual, contact
Hansen Pole Buildings BEFORE proceeding further with construction.
Choosing Fasteners
Hansen Pole Buildings provides all required fasteners, other than nails for structural panels –
(ex. plywood, OSB or similar) for post frame building kit structural assembly.
Nail Note:
Several pounds 3” or 3-1/2” duplex nails or 3” Torx head wood screws may prove convenient
for easy temporary bracing installation and removal.
Staples:
Some installers prefer to use staples to hold trims in place, or to install soffit materials. In
general, same guidelines apply to staples as to nails.
· Either conventional or power-driven staples are acceptable if they are appropriately
corrosion-resistant.
· In addition, staples are to be at least 16 gauge semi flattened to an elliptical cross-
section.
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· Staple crown at least 7/16” wide with legs long enough to penetrate framing at least
3/4”.
· NOTE: Florida State has specific requirements for using staples, ask your Building Of-
ficial.
Deck screws are very brittle and MUST be avoided when joining any structural
members.
Although many methods are acceptable, we have found ½” drywall screws to be handy for
installing soffit panels.
Tools Needed
Before investing large sums of money on equipment, some thoughts. If you need a
tool for only a few hours or a single day, most equipment rental locations can help. For an ex-
tended period (especially larger equipment), consider purchasing used and then reselling
when done. We have had many clients successfully do this with equipment such as scissor
lifts – sometimes even selling for more than their purchase price.
Required tools:
Most work will require some or all of these standard carpentry tools:
- Adjustable wrench
- Carpenter’s level (4’ or 6’ long)
- Carpenter’s pencil
- Caulking gun and caulk**
- Chalk line
- Clam Shell digger
- Come-Along w/cables
- Ear protection
- Framing Hammer
- Framing square
- Gloves
- Hack saw
- Hand saw
- Nail apron
- Plumb bob
- Protective rubber sole boots
- Safety glasses or goggles
- Saw horses
- Screwdrivers
- Shims
- Shovel
- String line
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- Tape measures, 25’ & 100’
- Tin snips
- Transit (or building level)
- Utility knife
- Wooden stakes
**A suggested caulking for steel trims is TITEBOND Metal Roof Translucent Sealant avail-
able at The Home Depot®
Any caulking should only be applied in areas where it will not be visible from build-
ing exterior
Screw gun
No steel roofing and siding job is complete without this tool! Use equipment providing
drive screw force control (a clutch). Under or over driven screws WILL create adverse situa-
tions and cause leaks. While battery powered screw guns can be convenient, limited battery
life usually makes a corded tool far more practical. Screws have 1/4” hex-heads. Hansen
Pole Buildings recommends purchasing several Master Surface Magnetic Drive bits (avail-
able through Hansen Pole Buildings). Alternate bit brands may damage screws’ powder coat-
ing. For sliding door assembly, a Phillips head bit sufficient to drive a #8 pan head screw will
be required.
HELPFUL HINT: Buy extra Master Surface Magnetic Drive bits as they do wear out.
Usually a bit will do 750-1000 screws. If you have extras and have unopened packages, they
can be returned for full credit. This is much cheaper than having to make an extra trip (or
trips!) to a hardware store.
Under no circumstance use drive bits from Ryobi, Black and
Decker or Ridgid, as they WILL damage screw heads.
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Drill motor and bits
¼” Drill Motor. For pre-boring screw holes, 7/64” and 1/8” bits are required. For enclosed
building wet-set bracket mount applications a 5/32” cobalt or titanium bit is required. Same
size bit can be used for pre-drilling steel roofing and siding (although 3/16” works best).
Strong-Drive® SDWS TIMBER Screw truss fasteners require a 9/64” bit with 5” net penetration
as well as a 7/32” bit. For pre-drilling eave light panels a 3/8” bit is required. A 5/8” diameter
wood bit is required for drill holes for re-bar hairpins in embedded columns, if installing a con-
crete slab. For Strong-Drive® SDWS TIMBER Screw column/truss fasteners, a ½” Drill Motor
and 5/16” hex head drive bit. For sliding doors a 17/32” metal bit is required. For bi-parting
(split) sliding doors, a 9/32” metal bit.
In an event pre-drilling into wood for a screw pilot hole is done, maximum bit diameter should
be no greater than ¾ fastener diameter.
Helpful, but not required, (time saving) tools:
Save time by adding these power tools and their accessories to list:
Auger
Normally best if mounted on a skid steer or other similar equipment. Refer to building plans
for required hole diameter. Hole diameters less than 18” are inadequate, in any case.
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** Hole digging and large delivery coordination can be convenient. If renting a skid loader for
digging holes, consider having it delivered with forks. It can then be used to unload materials
off delivery truck.
Circular saw
With sharp blades for both rough cutting and a fine-tooth plywood blade. Carbide tipped
blades often give best results and greatest longevity. A power saw saves time and assures
straight cuts. An abrasive saw blade may be handy as well. When using a power circular
saw, work on a stable surface with ample clear area for cutting materials.
12” Miter saw
Handy for repetitive cutting for both speed and accuracy.
Metal nibbler or shear
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Chain saw
Hammer tacker
Optional tools:
Finally, to make work go easier, here are recommendations for other equipment:
Genie Superlift Contractor
Designed specifically for construction industry, these heavy-duty units can be operated by
one person and can lift, lower and move loads up to 650 pounds to heights up to 24 feet.
Glide rails allow one person to easily load or unload unit, as well as lift it in or out from a
pickup truck. Ideally for lifting trusses.
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Truss jacks
Also known as “winch boxes” to raise roof trusses. In simple terms, these normally are a steel
box (or cap) designed to fit building’s sidewall column tops (or attached to column face, with a
pulley wheel on column top). Welded to cap is a reduced drive boat trailer winch. While truss
jacks are currently commercially unavailable, most experienced installers own at least two
pair. This allows roofs to be framed on ground in “bays” and lifted with all framing in place
Extension ladder (Only use OSHA-approved.)
Verify ladder sturdiness and upper side rails are padded to prevent damage to installed sid-
ing.
SAFETY TIP: When working with a ladder(s), set on dry, level ground, avoiding snow, mud,
or wet grass. Wear work boots or shoes with non-slip soles and keep hips within ladder ver-
tical rails. Leaning too far to side will cause ladder to topple over.
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Winding Bars
For overhead door installations. Takes two ½” x 18” long steel rods.
Scaffold
If working on a tall building, a stable scaffold can save time and provide added safety. (Again,
use OSHA-approved equipment.) Different types are available, from pump jacks to bracket
scaffolding. Mount scaffold correctly and use sturdy, properly sized planks to stand on.
Scissor Lift
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4 1/2” Angle Grinder
Can be used with a metal cutting disk for cutting steel panels.
Spoon Shovel
Handy for cleaning loose earth from hole bottoms.
Tamper Pogo Stick
Perfect tool to compact fill above bottom collars. Available at most equipment rental outlets.
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