Lesson

Principles and Elements

1 Design
The following are some reminders in using this module:

1. Use the module with care. Do not put unnecessary mark/s on any part of
the module. Use a separate sheet of paper in answering the exercises.
2. Don’t forget to answer What I Know before moving on to the other
activities included in the module.
3. Read the instruction carefully before doing each task.
4. Observe honesty and integrity in doing the tasks and checking your
answers.
5. Finish the task at hand before proceeding to the next.
6. Return this module to your teacher/facilitator once you are through with it.
If you encounter any difficulty in answering the tasks in this module, do not
hesitate to consult your teacher or facilitator. Always bear in mind that you are
not alone.

We hope that through this material, you will experience meaningful learning and
gain deep understanding of the relevant competencies. You can do it!

What I Need to Know

This module was designed and written to guide you to acquire the learning
competencies and develop your skills in applying and selecting appropriate
elements and principles of design. The scope of this module permits it to be
used in many different learning situations. The language used recognizes the
diverse vocabulary level of students. The lessons are arranged to follow the
standard sequence of the course. However, the order in which you read the
module can be changed to correspond with the textbook you are now using.

Quarter/Week Q1/W1
Learning Competency Code TLE_HEDM9-12SK-Ia-c-1
LO 1. Draft and cut pattern for
Learning Competency
ladies skirt
1.1 Plan garment design

What Is It

1
The elements and principles of design

The principles of design are artistic guidelines for using the various
design elements within a garment.

1. Balance – is how the internal spaces of a shape work together. The

area of a design maybe broken up by structural lines, fabric, patter,
texture, or color.
a. Symmetrical or formal balance – occur when the space within a
garment is divided into equal parts. A simple skirt with a center front
seam and a simple skirt with a center front closing are examples of
symmetrical balance.
b. Asymmetrical or informal balance – occur when the space within
a garment is divided unequally. A skirt with a side front wrap, a skirt
with only side design is an example of asymmetric balance.
2. Proportion – is the size relationship of each of the internal spaces
within a garment to one another and to the total look. the most pleasing
proportion are those that are unequal. Clothing should also be proportion
or your own size. If you are short or small framed, stay away from large
overpowering details, such as wide lapels, and collars or huge pocket and
bows.
3. Emphasis – is the focal point, or center of interest of a garment. In
fashion design emphasis should highlight your best features and draw
attention away from your figure faults. It can be accomplished with line,
design details, color, texture, trims, or accessories.
4. Rhythm – is the flow of lines, shape, space, and texture of garment.
The flow should gently carry the eye from one area to the garment to
another. Good rhythm is apparent when all lines of an outfit work
together. For example, a curved pocket compliments the curve of a jacket
hem.
5. Harmony – is a pleasing arrangement of all parts of garment.
Harmony is achieved when the design elements work well together. The
colors, lines, shape, space and textures look like they belong together.
However, the total result is not perfect unless the design is also
harmonious with you, your size and shape, your coloring of your
personality

Design Equation

2
Use these According
design to these To create
elements Principles
Line Balance
Shape Proportion
Space + Emphasis = Good design
Texture Rhythm
Color Harmony

The samples of the principles of design

Asymmetrical balance Symmetrical

balance

Proportion Harmony

Emphasis

3
 Rhythm

APPLYING ELEMENTS OF DESIGN ON DRAFTING AND CUTTING

LADIES
SKIRT
These building blocks is called the elements of design. Are
fundamentals to all designs, such as line, shape, space, texture, color
form and value.
1. Line - is a series of points connected together to form a narrow path. It
can be;
a. vertical - line place along the length of the garment, and thus
elongates the length of the body or garment.
b. horizontal - a line that draws the eye from one side to another or a
line from left to right.
c. diagonal-lines moves at an angle on a garment. They add
movement and excitement to clothing.
d. curved lines – used to re-emphasize or define your figure because
the female body is naturally curved.
2. Shape – is an outline or, silhouette of an object, they all have an
outer shape. Shapes are created when the end of the lines are
joined to enclose area
3. Space – is the area inside the shape or outline of an object. Refers
to the area within, around. above or below an object or objects.
4. Texture – is the surface characteristics, feel of an object. We describe
things as being rough, smooth, silky, shiny, fuzzy and so on.
5. Color – it has three main properties: hue, value and intensity. It is the
characteristic of visual perception described through color
categories, with names such as red, orange, green, blue or purple.
6. Value – refers to the relative lightness or darkness or a certain area.

4
7. Form - is described as the way an artist arranges elements in the
entirely of a composition. It may be created by the combining

Space

of two or more shapes. It may be enhanced by tone, texture

or color .

Image Source: https://itsallaboutthelight.weebly.com/creative-design-

forheatre.html

https://mbitwebpagedesign.com/resources/design-principleselements/

5
6
 FABRICS
Fabric is cloth made of fibers. Fibers are hair-like strands that are wound to make
yarn or thread used to make fabric. Fabric is the cloth or material used in making our
clothes, curtains, tablecloths, sheets and many other items.

Types of Fabrics
Woven fabric does not stretch except on the bias. Woven fabric is made up of fibers which
run straight at ninety degree angles to each other.

Knit fabric has loops of fiber that allow the fabric to stretch. The amount and the
direction of stretches are all variables. A knit may stretch in one direction or it may
stretch in both directions. This is an important consideration when choosing fabric
for a specific pattern. For example, a bathing suit pattern will require equal two way
stretch. If you choose a fabric that only stretches in one direction, the suit is not
going to fit properly and you cannot even put it on.

KINDS OF FABRICS, THEIR USES, CHARACTERISTICS AND

CARE
NATURAL USES (Home and Characteristics Care
FIBERS Apparel)

Vegetable Fibers

A. Cotton Good for items that The world's most Special for durable
need to be washed popular fabric. It is cool press
to wear and easy

often like sheets and to wash and sew. It is Maybe machine

pillows, school versatile, durable and laundered
clothes, and work comfortable.
clothes. Inexpensive but shrinks
and wrinkles easily. Avoid risk of mildew

Kinds of Cotton F abrics

7
1. Canvas Used for crafts, home Tightly woven
decorating (curtains heavyduty cotton
cushions and
outdoor gear)

2. Cotton Batiste For elegant A finely woven

garments lightweight cotton
(blouses, baby Use straight
dresses, and stitch/jeans presser
underlining) foot and 60/8 or 70/10
machine needle

3. Broadcloth Perfect for shirts. Fantastic, closely woven

cotton that has slight rib

4. Cotton chintz For home 100 percent cotton.

decorations (curtains Needs special fabric
and cushions) treatment that leaves it
shiny and smooth

5. Cotton pique The most common Medium weight cotton

fabric used in the tie fabric that has raised
and waistcoat of
nubby surface
white tie

6. Cotton shirting Pajamas and Lightweight 100-

boxers. percent cotton that
makes fantastic

menswear shirts

8
7. Cotton voile Mostly used in soft Crisp lightweight cotton
furnishing such as used for garments
curtains, mosquito
nets, and also in
dressmaking.

8. Denim Great for work One of the most heavy-

clothes, jeans and duty cottons
jackets.

9. Seer sucker Used to make This falls into the

clothing for spring category of cotton
and summer wear
crinkles which have
surface texture.

10. Terrycloth Used for robes, Thick, absorbent cotton

towels, beachwear
and home

decorating

11. Velveteen Used in Either a 100-percent

dressmaking cotton or cotton blend,
it has a duller and
slightly stiffer look than
velvet.

9
B. Linen Women’s and Very strong, cool to Iron at high
children’s dresses and wear, and usually more temperature. Avoid
pressing in sharp
blouses. expensive than cotton.
creases. Avoid risk
Easily wrinkled unless a of mildew
Summer dress
special finish is applied.
Table linens and
other household Known as the oldest
fiber and used by the
fabrics
Egyptians thousands of
years ago. It comes from
the stem of a very pretty
plant called flax.

Animal Fibers

A. Silk - collected For high-end Strong and luxurious Dry cleaning is

from the cocoon of clothing and fabric with natural preferred.
silk worm. accessories Some luster; moderately
Maybe hand
expensive
resilient and resists
upholstery and washed in mild
drapery fabrics wrinkling
suds. Avoid over
More expensive than exposure to light.
manmade (filament)
silky yarns Can be attacked by
insects.

Kinds of Silk Fab ric

1. China silk Used almost A very lightweight silk

exclusively for

lining

10
2. Brocade Luxurious fabrics Textured silk with some
made into clothing or stiffness
wall hangings

3. Chiffon Can be used in all Lightweight, very

sorts of garments drapery silk .This is the
fabric that goes with the
flow.

4. Charmeuse Works well as a A slinky, satiny, supple

1940s redux silk

dressing gown,
dresses and
blouses

5. Crepe de For making a full A light to medium

Chine range of garments weight silk and comes in
two-ply, three- ply, and
fourply

(the heaviest) weights

6. Dupioni For making Capri A stiffer and crisper silk

pants or a fancy that has telltale slubs
room divider and raised yarn on the
fabric; easyto- sew silk
that adds a lot of
fashion flair

7. Georgette used for blouses, Lightweight silk and

dresses, evening barely visible

gowns, and
trimmings

11
8. Raw silk woven into textiles. Rough-looking silk with a
dull finish made from
short silk filaments
discarded as waste but
easy to sew and has a
distinctive look

9. Washed silk A great travel The washing process

fabric makes this silk creamy
and soft.

10. Shantung For special Especially crisp and

occasion uses shiny silk

11. Taffeta for special A crisp silk that wrinkles

occasion clothing and swishes upon
movement

Wool - made from the sleets of sheep

12
 Perfect for tailoring Outerwear Medium- Dry cleaning is
blankets and weight clothing preferred; will shrink
upholstery and felt in presence
Springs back into shape of moisture and heat
and can be attacked
Requires little pressing;
by insects.
with great versatility in
fabric and with
insulating capacity

Kinds of Wool Fabric

1. Boiled For blankets and Made in similar fashion

jackets as felt, but

much richer and

more supple. There’s no
need to finish the seam
edges.

2. Boucle Perfect for soft Has a distinctive

shaping in coats and sweater-like nubby
jackets surface created with
little loops

3. Challis Perfect for all types Medium to

of garments lightweight, it is hand
washable and doesn’t
wrinkle much.

13
4. Crepe for scarves, Can be composed of
shawls, and wool, silk, cotton, or
bonnet trimmings synthetic. It varies in
quality and it is
Perfect for Making
expensive. It is a
shirts beautiful fabric that
drapes well and is
extremely wearable.

5. Gabardine Works well on A twill-weave fabric,

tailored and hand washable and do
not wrinkle
constructed
garments

6. Melton Used for coats A very fine,

expensive, closely-
woven wool made from
Merino sheep’s coats.

7. Merino widely used in the A very fine,

textile industries expensive, closely-
woven wool made from
Merino sheep’s coats.

8. Worsted Used for tailoring Lustrous wool in a

jackets, skirts and variety of weights
pants.

Synthetic or Man made Fibers

14
a. Rayon Light and Soft, cheap and Hand washing
mediumweight comfortable fabric to dry cleaning.
clothing absorbent; lacks Tends to shrink and
stretch unless proper
resilience; wrinkles
Drapery and chemical finish is
upholstery fabrics easily. applied.
Blankets, throw rugs
Not easy to sew as plain
and table coverings
cottons.

b. Polyester Wash and wear Strong and durable Can be washable or

clothing- often in synthetic fabric; dries dry clean. Remove
combination with quickly, with sharp pleat
other fibers, and crease retention. oily stains before
especially cotton washing. Needs little
Curtains, carpets, ironing or pressing.
fiberfill, Use
raincoats and
hats. It is ideal

for constructing steam iron at warm

strong outerwear for setting.
damp climates.

c. Nylon Women's stockings It was first developed as Remove oily stains

were the first a substitute for before washing.
commercial use of imported silk. With Washes easily;
nylon. Also used for exceptional strength, wash with care to
clothing, excellent elasticity; maintain whiteness.
upholstery and retains shape. Press at low
temperatures. Dry
carpet, rope, tents Woven fabrics feel
and fishing line. uncomfortable in clean only.
contact with skin.

15
d. Rubber Foundation garments Stretch and recovery Frequent washing in
Swimwear rate is high mild suds; avoid
constant overstretch
Damaged by oils and at high temperature
light
With discoloration

e. Spandex Foundation Stretch and recovery May be machine

garments; rate is high laundered with
warm water Dry on
Swimwear Resists abrasion and
lowest heat,
Surgical hose body oils With
shortest cycle.
Ski pants and discoloration
other sportswear

f. Acrylic Tailored outerwear; Resists wrinkling Remove oily

knitted wear, pile High bulking power stains before
fabrics, blankets and washing. Washable
Wool-like texture Very
carpets or dry cleanable
resistant to effects of
sunlight Medium iron
temperature.

16
 What Do You Need to Know?

Read Lesson
Information 21.very well then find out how much you can remember
and how much you learned by doing -Check
Self 1.
2.

Lesson Information2 1.

SLEEPING GARMENTS
Nightwear, also called sleepwear, nightclothes, or nightdress, is clothing designed to
be worn while sleeping. The style of nightwear worn may vary with the seasons, with
warmer styles being worn in colder conditions and vice versa.

Characteristics of a Sleeping Garment

Sleeping garments must provide us the comfort while sleeping. They should p possess the
following characteristics:

1. They should not exceed the maximum dimensions specified in the regulations
for the chest, waist, seat, upper arm, thigh, wrist, or ankle.

2. They should have no fabric ornament or trim, such as lace or ribbon, which
extends more than ¼ inch from the point at which it is attached to the garment. 3.
They should have sleeves that taper from the shoulders to the ends of the sleeves.

4. They should have pant legs that taper from the thighs to the ends of the legs. 5. If
they are 1-piece, they should taper from the chest down to the waist and from the
seat up to the waist.
6. If they are 2-piece,
a. The upper piece should taper from the chest down to the bottom of the piece,

b. If the upper piece has fastenings it should be located within 6 inches of the bottom
of the piece.

c. It has a lower piece that tapers from the seat to the bottom.
7. They should bear a permanent label stating the size of garment.
8. They should bear a hang tag alerting buyer that the garments are not flame resistant and
should be worn snug fitting because loose-fitting garments are more likely to catch fire.

17
TYPES AND SELECTION OF FABRICS FOR SLEEPING
GARMENTS
Types of Sleeping Garment Suggested Fabrics
Adult jumpsuits or footed pajamas Usually made of cotton and marketed under a number
of different brand names.

All-in-one footed sleep suits worn by adults but similar

to an infant one size or children's blanket sleeper

Blanket sleeper A warm sleeping garment for infants and young children

Babydoll The garment is often trimmed with lace, ruffles,

appliques, marabou fur, bows, and ribbons; optionally
with spaghetti straps. Sometimes it is made of sheer or
translucent fabric like nylon or chiffon or silk.

A short, sometimes sleeveless, loose-fitting nightgown

or negligee for women, generally designed to resemble
a young girl's nightgown

Chemise Skimpy chemises pieced from a narrow piece of rough

cloth, some have voluminous chemises pieced from
thin, smooth fine linen.

It is a delicate, usually provocative, loose-fitting,

sleeveless, shirt-like lingerie, similar to baby doll, but
tighter at the hips.

18
Negligee or négligée Usually made of sheer or semi-translucent fabrics and
trimmed with lace or other fine material, and bows

From the French: négligée, literally meaning

"neglected",loose, sensuous nightwear for women

Nightgown

Typically made from cotton, silk, satin or nylon.

A loose hanging nightwear for women

Nightshirt Usually made of cotton fabric.

A garment somewhat longer than most regular shirts,

reaching down to the thighs or below the knees while
leaving some of the legs uncovered. It is generally loose
fitting to avoid restricting the wearer's movement while
sleeping.

Nightcap Ideally made from cotton fabrics

A warm cloth cap worn while sleeping, often with
pajamas or a nightgown. It is similar to winter 'beanies'
worn in cold climates. They were common in northern
Europe before central heating was available. Women's
night caps usually consist of a long piece of cloth
wrapped around the head. Men's nightcaps were
traditionally pointed with a long top and usually
accompanied by a small ball similar to a scarf.

19
 They keep the neck warm as wrapped around but not so
tight to become a choking hazard.

Pajamas They may be made from cotton, silk, satin or synthetic

materials made of soft fabric, such as flannel; Loose
fitting two-piece garments for women, men and
children. Traditional pajamas consist of jacket-and
trousers. The jacket element usually has a placket front
and its sleeves have no cuffs. For a number of reasons
(increased freedom of movement, aesthetic appeal,
etc.), many men opt to sleep or lounge bare chested in
just the pajama trousers.

Dressing gown Made of chiffon, silk or cotton fabrics

A long outer garment for women usually sheer. They are
usually sold with a matching nightgown, negligee or
panties

20
 Lesson Information3 1.

PROJECT PLAN FOR SLEEPING GARMENT

Construction of sleeping garment is just like cooking a recipe for a party that
requires careful planning. In every task or project you have, it should be
accompanied with a project plan. This serves as a guide in making any kind of
project. It contains the materials and tools to be used, design and procedure in
making the project and the criteria for evaluating the finish output coupled with
rubrics designed by the teacher and students.

Components of a Project Plan

1. Project Plan No. – reflects the number of projects
2. Date Begun – date when the construction of the project will starts 3.
Date Finished – the exact date when the project will be completed

4. Name of the Project – a specific description of the job/ project.

5. Objectives - states the purpose why a project should be done. This is usually
stated in three learning domains: the cognitive, psychomotor and affective.

6. Word Study – unlocks the terms used operationally and conceptually

7. Tools and Equipment – list of tools and equipment in the accomplishment of
the job

8. Materials and Supplies Needed – the itemized list of tools and supplies
needed to produce a project.

a. Quantity suggests the amount needed.

b. Unit is the unit of measure of the quantity.
c. Description refers to the features and characteristics of the materials and
supply needed.

d. Unit Cost is the selling price per quantity and unit of the materials
e. Total Cost is the total amount needed per quantity of supply and material
needed.

9. Design Specifications – the photographic representation of the project in

two to five views: front, back, right, left and top views.

10. Procedure – the chronological steps or operations involved to accomplish the

project. This is divided into two stages:

21
 a. Preparation stage – depicts the preparation to be done before the actual
execution or performance of the operations.

b. Performance stage – the actual procedures involve in the actual making of

the project where all tools, supplies, materials and equipment intended to
make the project are ready.

11. Evaluation – the process of assessing the finished project with its given criteria
prepared during planning and evaluating.

What Do You Need to Know?

Read LessonInformation 1.
4 very well then find out how much you can
remember and how much you learned by doing -Check
Self 1.4.

Lesson Information
1.4

TOOLS, MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT USED IN SEWING

22
A. Tools

Tape Measure L - Square Hip Curve

French Curve Dressmaker’s Shears Pins

Tracing Wheel Pencil Complete Sewing Kit

23
B. Materials

Pattern Paper Tailor’s Chalk Thread

Tracing Paper Fabric Interfacing Material

Fasteners

C. Equipment

Ironing Board Cutting table Sewing Machine

24
 MARKING TOOLS USED IN PATTERN DRAFTING
Marking tools are used to transfer the pattern symbols onto the fabric. It is essential
to transfer these symbols for correct fitting and sewing. Below are some tools used
to transfer the pattern markings onto the fabric.

1. Tracing wheel is available in a serrated or smooth

edge. The serrated edge is used to make a dotted link
marking in most fabrics. The smooth edge makes a solid line
marking and is used for delicate fabrics such as silk and
chiffon.

2. Dressmaker’s carbon/tracing paper is used to

transfer the tracing wheel’s line to the wrong side of the
fabric. Select a color close to your fabric which is visible
enough to see.

3. Tailor’s chalk can be used to mark directly onto the

fabric. It does not need sharpening like a chalk pencil. Great
for dark, heavy fabrics where a traditional water soluble
marking pen may not appear.

4. Chalk pencil is filled with chalk at one end of the pencil

and a brush at the other end to remove chalk marks.

5. Liquid marking pens are used to mark tucks, darts,

pleats and pockets. One type disappears after about 48 hours.
Another type washes off with water.

25
 Lesson 2: Take Client’s Body Measurement
• Perform surface preparation procedure following job requirements.

• Take needed body measurements in construction of sleeping garments.

Definition of Technical Terms

Accuracy-the exactness of a measured distance or circumference
Calculation- the process or an act of calculating
English System- the English system has inches for its basic unit
IMC- Individual Measurement Chart
Length- the longer or longest dimension of an object to measure
Measurement- a systematic procedure of determining the quantity or extent of the
entire measurable dimension
Metric System- a decimal system of physical units based on a unit of length known as
the meter (Greek metron, ―measure‖)
Width- measurement taken at the shortest dimension of the object to measure

What Do You Need to Know?

Read Lesson
Information
2.1 very well then find out how much you can remember
and how much you learned by doing -Check
Self2.1.

LessonInformation 2.1

MEASUREMENTS NEEDED IN SLEEPING GARMENTS

As variety of ready-to wear garments is largely available in our market, you

may think there’s no need for you to sew and make a dress for yourself. That’s not a
good idea! Now that you have acquired some of the basic learning about the
different kinds of fabric, let us continue to develop your ability and skill in sewing. It
would be a great accomplishment for you if you know what you are wearing is a
product of your own talent, skill and creativity. Apparel requires specific

26
 measurement to come up with a well-designed and comfortable sleeping garment.
The following measurements are needed:

BODY MEASUREMENTS NEEDED IN SEWING SLEEPING

GARMENT

Shoulder Width Measure from the tip of the left

shoulder to the tip of right shoulder with the tape
measure passing over the prominent bone.

Back Across Width Measure from the left

shoulder arm joint to the opposite side,
approximately 4 to 5 inches down from the tip of
the shoulder

Back Figure Length Measure from the nape to

the waistline on the cord. Allow the tape measure
to hang freely.

Chest Width Measure from the left (front)

armhole seam to the right (front) armhole seam.

27
Bust Circumference Measure around the
fullest portion of the bust with the tape measure
passing over the shoulder blades running on the
same level in front.

Waist Circumference Measure around the

smallest portion of the torso.

Front Figure Length Measure from the

shoulder neck junction with the tape measure
passing over the highest part of the bust down to
the waistline.

Bust Height Measure from the shoulder neck

junction to the highest point of the bust.

Armhole Circumference Measure around the

base of the arm with the tape measure closes at
the tip of the shoulder.

28
Sleeve Length Measure from the tip of the shoulder to the desired length of the sleeve

Arm Circumference This measurement is taken around the arm where the sleeve
length falls.

Hip1 Circumference This measurement is

taken 5 inches below the waistline measure
around the hip level.

Hip2 Circumference This measurement is

taken 7 to 8 inches below the waistline.
Measure around the fullest part of the buttocks
with the tape measure closest at the side.

29
 Thigh Circumference Measure around the
fullest part of the thigh with the tape measure
closest at the side.

Bust Distance Measure from the highest

point of the bust to the opposite side.

Crotch/seat/rise This measurement is taken in

two ways. For male customer insert a ruler on
the rise and measure from the waistline to the
upper edge of the ruler.

For female customer allow her to sit on a flat

chair, and measure at the side from the waistline
to the surface of the chair.

Skirt’s Length Measure from the waistline to

the desired length.

30
 Full Length Measure from the waistline down
to the desired length of the shorts / pants.

Knee and Bottom Circumference

Measure around the legs where the fulllength
falls.

Accuracy the exactness of a measured distance or circumference

IMC- Individual Measurement Chart
Length the longer or longest dimension of an object to measure
Measurement- a systematic procedure of determining the quantity or extent of the
entire measurable dimension
Metric System a decimal system of physical units based on a unit of length known as
the meter (Greek metron, ―measure‖).

31
 Pattern paper is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto
fabric before being cut out and assembled.
Width- measurement taken at the shortest dimension of the object to measure

What Do You Need to Know?

Read Lesson
Information 3.1 very well then find out how much you can
remember and how much you learned by Activity
doing Sheet3.1.

Lesson Information
3.1

Drafting Pattern for Pajama Pants

Measurement Needed in Drafting pattern for Pajama Pants
Length of pants Crotch
Hips
Procedure in drafting pattern for pajama pants
Draw a Perpendicular line
A – Starting point
AB – length of pajama AC - Crotch measurement
Project all points.
AD – ¼ hip measurement
AD = AE, CF, CG, BH, BI
*connect points EFH and DGI using a L-square
FJ – 3” Standard Measurement
GK – 1 ½” Standard measurement
EL – 1” Standard measurement
LM – 1” standard Measurement
*Connect points JL and DK using a French curve
HN – 1” standard measurement
IO – ½” standard Measurement

32
 What Do You Need to Know
?

Read Lesson
Information
3.2very well then find out how much you can remember
and how much you learned by doing -Check
Self3.2.

Lesson Information 3.2

Drafting Pattern for

Front and Back Blouse
Measurement Needed in Drafting pattern for Front and Back Blouse:
Shoulder
Waist Circumference

33
 Bust Circumference
2nd Hips
Figure Length
Back Across Width
Chest Width
Bust Height
Bust Distance

Procedure in drafting pattern for Front and Back Blouse

Draw a Perpendicular line
A – Starting point
A1 – 3” Standard measurement
AB – 1” Standard
AC – Bust Height
B-C1 – ½ armhole measurement
C1–2 – ½ chest measurement
AD – Front figure
*Project all points to the right
AE – 2 ½” standard measurement
BF – ½ shoulder measurement
C1-G – ½ back across measurement
*Connect to point F. Mark X as the midpoint of the line
C1-H – ¼ bust measurement plus ½ inch *using
French curve, connect X to H.
DI – ¼ waist measurement plus 1 inch
AJ – Desired length
JK – ¼ hip measurement
Dart
CL and DM – ½ bust point width
MN – 5 inches downward
MO and MP - ½ inch. Connect points as illustrated in the
figure.
SLEEVES
A – Starting Point
AB – 4 inches Standard Measurement
AC – Sleeve Length
AD – ½ Armhole measurement which is taken from
the pattern.
CE – ½ Lower arm girth.
*Connect to point D. Divide AD into four and mark as F,
G and H
GI – ½ inch standard measurement
HJ – ¼ inch standard measurement

34
*Connect A-I-F-J-H using a French curve.

Definition of Technical Terms

Alterations the act, process, or result of changing or altering something.

Directional means moving with the grain.
Stroke to rub gently in one direction
Technique a way of doing something by using special knowledge or skill.

35
What Do You Need to Know?

Read Lesson Information 5.1 very well then find out how much

you can remember and how much you learned by doing Self-
Check

Cutting the Final Pattern

Final patterns consist all the necessary symbols, number of pieces per part
and garment design that will guide the fabric cutter and the sewer. Final pattern is
cut at the allowance provided for seams and design. (Refer to picture
below)

Techniques in Cutting Final Pattern

Before cutting out , sort out all the pattern pieces that are required for the item you are
making. Check them to see if any have special cutting instructions. If there are no more
alterations to be mad, just trim patterns to your size.
1. Identify which size to be used for different areas of your body. Use a colored
pen and trace the cutting lines.

2. Use a sharp pair of scissors in cutting the pattern. If you slip and make a cut
where you shouldn’t have, simply shape it back into place. The important
thing is that the shape is retained and that you can still read the markings.
Cut carefully along the cutting lines.

3. Check for the seam allowances. Notice the grain lines. The word
“directional” means moving with the grain. In cutting garment pieces from
fabric, look at the pattern piece. You will notice that by cutting from wide to

36
 the narrow part of a piece, you cut with less pull on the grain of the fabric.
This is called directional cutting.

4. Use long, even strokes about 1 inch from the end of the blades of the shears.
If you close the blades with each stroke, the result cut edge will be choppy
and uneven.

5. As you come to the notches (diamond-shaped marks) on the cutting line, cut
them around away from the pattern.

6. Trim multi-size pattern pieces. Single-size pattern pieces do not need to be

cut to shape; just cut around them roughly if there is excess tissue.

37