Marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and
shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment
utilization
Lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting
Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labour and table space
Marker Making:
Marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a
specific style and the sizes to be cut from a single spread.
Marker Making is the process of determining the most efficient layout
of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes
(requires time, skill and concentration)
Marker Modes
Is determined by the symmetry and directionality of fabric.
Nap either way (N/E/W)
Nap one way (N/O/W)
Nap up and down (N/U/D)
The term Nap is used to indicate the fabric is directional.
N/E/W with symmetric, non directional fabrics, pattern pieces can be placed
on a marker with only consideration for grain line
N/O/W all the pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one direction
N/U/D all patterns pieces of one size to be placed in one direction and
another size placed in opposite direction. eg. corduroy
Dimensions of marker
Two types
Blocked markers/Sectioned markers
Continuous markers
Sectioned markers
Contain all pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.
Easier to visualize plot or handle
Stepped spread: consist of plies of varied length, spread at
different height.
Usage of stepped spread: Adjust the quantity of piece goods to
no. of garment to be cut from each ply.
Continuous marker
Contain all pattern pieces of all sizes in single cutting.
Lengthy
More marker efficiency
Use splice marks
Types of Markers
Open marker Marker made with full pattern pieces
Closed Marker marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the
folds of the tube (tubular knit)
Splice marks
Are points in the marker where fabric can be cut and next piece
overlapped to maintain a continuous spread
Two types
Straight - Line
Interlock
Usage:
Removal of flaws
Roll change
Short length of fabric used
Straight line splicing
Refers to vertical line across the width of the marker ; on which
the ends of the pattern sections abut on both sides of the pattern
line.
It is marked by single line on the table
Overlap is 2 on each side of line
Inter lock splice
Refers to section where opposing ends of successive
patterns in the spreading marker interlock instead of meeting
at common vertical line along width
Contain two lines
To avoid confusion two lines are connected by two diagonal
lines
Diagonal line indicate common area that must be overlapped
2 safety extension
Making of splice marks
Chalk
Paint
Base paper
Marks shall be quickly and easily removable.
Quality of marker
Accuracy
Complete data size, style no., piece name.
Precise lines accurate, consistent, fine, smooth.
Pieces not omitted
Correct grain
Plan knife path for cutting.
Marker making
Manual
Computerized
Manually produced markers
Created by arranging full size pattern pieces on marker
paper or directly on top ply of fabric in spread.
Traced by tailors chalk or pencil.
Pros and cons of manual
method
Time consuming
Require great deal of space
Subject to error of grain variation
Poor line definition
Omission of pieces
Accuracy depends on skill of individual
Low cost
Computerized marker making
Marker made using CAD software
Pros and cons of
computerized marker making
Accurate
Provides greatest opportunity for manipulation
Reuse of previously made marker
Ensures grain alignment
Prevent omission of pieces
Automatic marker making
Details of fabric utilization are given on screen
Marker efficiency
% of fabric actually used in garment parts
Waste : area not used in garment part
Formula : area used/ total area of fabric *100
Planimeter
A mechanical device that calculates the surface area as
the outline of the pattern is traced.
Factors that effect marker
efficiency
1.
Fabric characteristics:
Face
Fabric width
Matching fabric design required
Cond.
2. Characteristics of pattern pieces:
Variety of garment sizes
Shape of pattern pieces
Modifications can be done in patterns
Splitting pattern and creating a seam
Rounding corners
Reducing seam allowances
Adjusting grain line for hidden parts
Cond..
3. Grain orientation
Pattern of same grain orientation grouped
Tilting specific pieces by 1-2%
Cond
4. Fabric utilization
standards:
Basics 90-97%
Fashion firm 80-85%
Spreading
Definition
Height of spread in manual and computerized
cutting m/c
No of plies low , medium, high ply cutters
Spreading modes
Direction of fabric face
Direction of fabric nap
Direction of fabric face
Face to face (F/F)
Face one way (F/O/W)
Two types Face up
Face down
Face to face
Continuous spreading
Fastest
Least costly
Used for symmetric, non directional fabrics
Lowest quality
F/O/W
Time consuming
Expensive
Fabric is cut at each end
Turn table usage can avoid dead heading
Operator can monitor face for flaws
Helpful in spreading prints, directional.
Direction of fabric nap
Nap one way (N/O/W)
Nap up and down (N/U/D)
N/O/W
Asymmetric
Directional fabric
Most time consuming
Gives best quality
May be F/F or F/O/W
F/F is pair spreading
Fabric cut and roll turned for each ply in F/F
Nap up and down
Continuous spreading
Fastest
Least costly
Used for symmetric, non directional fabrics
Lowest quality
Example 1
symmetrical
Marker mode : nap one way
Spread mode : f/f or face one way ; nap one
way
warp
A A A
weft
Directional,
Example 2
Directional,
Asymmetrical
Marker mode : nap one way
Spread mode : face one way ; nap one way
B
BB B
weft
warp
Example 3
Directional, Asymmetrical
Marker mode : nap one way
Spread mode : face one way ; nap one way
warp
G
G
G
G G
weft
Example 4
Non
- Directional, Symmetrical
Marker mode : nap either way
Spread mode : face to face ; nap either way
H H H
weft
warp
