SPREADING AND

CUTTING
 SEQUENCE OF
ACTIVITIES FOR
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
• PATTERN MAKING-though mostly it
takes place in the sampling department
only.

• MARKER MAKING;
a marker is a diagram of a precise
arrangement of pattern pieces for the
sizes of a specific style that are to be
cut from a single spread. It can be
drawn on the top most ply or another
marker paper
 SEQUENCE OF
ACTIVITIES FOR
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
• SPREADING-placement of the
plies one upon the other.
• CUTTING
1. Block chopping(for matching
fabrics-i.e stripes and checks)
2. Pattern chopping-final cutting—for
plain fabric
 SEQUENCE OF
ACTIVITIES FOR
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
• POSITION MARKING
Notch marking….straight
notch(positioning)
v notch(at curves)
• SHADING OR TICKETING
• SLOPING/RESPREADING-for pattern
chopping
• BUNDLING-sorting and stacking
 REQUIREMENTS FOR
MARKER PLANNING
1. Aligning the fabric as per the grain line.

2. Design characteristic of the finished garment. e.g-

using half-set patterns for exactly symmetric
designs/garments or full set pattern

3. Marking and spreading mode of the fabric (depends on

the symmetry of the fabric design/garment design)
MARKER UTILIZATION
• Maximum marker utilisation-
= area of patterns in the marker plan/total area
of the marker x100%
(marker utilization may be calculated by a
planimeter and it depends on fabric
characteristic and pattern piece
characteristic.)

• Thumbrule for increasing marker utilization

are:
(a)Widening the width of the marker.
(b)Interlocking more sizes and parts.
(c)Using non sectional marker more than sectional
marker.
 DESIGN TYPES
• Symmetric
• asymmetric
 Garment types
: symmetric and asymmetric
 Marker making methods
1. Spray marking-place the patterns on a
cloth or paper and spray on it to get the
impression. then use the paper or cloth.
(disadv is that the patterns get coloured
and so brittle).
2. Marking by chalk on the fabric.(dis adv is
that the lines are thick and not well
defined)
 Marker making methods
3. Marking by pencil on the fabric(most
commonly used)
4. Perforated marker (made from waxed
paper and is used mainly for upholstery
patterns) where the marker is prepared on
a paper whose outline is perforated and
powder is used to make impressions. (dis
adv is that lines are not well defined and
the powders get dispersed very easily)
 Marker duplicating
1. Carbon duplicating-it is used when small
number of copies are to be made and
double sided carbon paper or no carbon
required paper (ncr) are to be used.
2. Spirit duplicating-the master marker is
drawn on a paper with special hectograph
paper underneath it. blue line impressions
thus come underneath the master marker.
the master is then used to make duplicate
copies on alcohol paper by passing it
between 2 rollers..
 Marker duplicating
3. Diazo-photographic method-master
marker and light sensitive paper are
passed under high intensity uv light and
the light sensitive paper is developed using
ammonia vapour.
4. Computerised marker planning-
digitizer,stylus,vdu,marker making monitor
and plotter are different components of
CAD.
 Marker quality
1. Quality of the paper for cadplotter-
should not be too slippery or thin.
2. No waves in the spread.
3. Pattern alignment wrt grain.
4. Special features should be marked in the
marker.
5. Knife clearance freedom-space around a
sharp curve.
 Marker quality
6. Thickness of the line.
7. Appropriate leveling.
8. Pattern count.
 Cutting table
• The main frame components
are made of 12 gauge "C"
channel steel, resulting in a
very strong and rigid bench.

• The Workstation consists of 4

legs, upper and lower front-
to-back rails, a rear stringer,
4 angle braces, and a 1" thick
premium hardboard laminated
top with black T-molding on
all top edges.
 Cutting table
• All Steel
components are
baked-on finish for
long wear and easy
cleaning.

• Optional 20" x 20"

x 6" steel drawers
are available .
• The tables
sometime have a
central supporting
leg and its width is
Autospreader
Automatic spreader:
Standard Equipment
1. Spreading Length Setting Memory
Device;
2. Machine Speed Computerized
Control Device;
3. Emergency Stop Device;
4. Automatic Layers Counter;
5. Automatic liftting Device;
6. Automatic Fabric Cutting Device;
7. Automatic Edge Controling Device;
8. Rewinding Device(cloth roll);
 Autospreader
• Main Equipment and Function:
• 1. Touch Panel Display: Easy to set the length,steps,number of layer,speed
when spreading;
2. Fabric Feeding Device: Can make an adjustment according to the width and
tension of fabric ensuring no wrinkles validly;
3. Fabric Cutting Device:The auto-cutter can be easily dismounted. Travel
length and speed of cutter are adjustable according to the width of fabric;
4. Automatic Fabric Tension Control Device:To adjust the speed and amount of
fabric spreading according to the original tension of fabric, decreasing the
tension of fabric during spreading;
5. Automatic Edge Control Device: Automatic edge control during
spreading(alignment shifter)
• 6. Fabric Loading sensor: Machine returns back to original position once fabric
runs empty;
7. Automatic Lifting Device: Automatic lifting according to the layer of cloth
during spreading. The lifting gauge can be adjusted.
8. Emergency Stop Device: The brake wires are under two sides of table,
emergency stop can be efficiently triggered upon emergency;
9. Manual/Automatic Feeding and Rolling Fabric Device: To control the amount
of fabric feeding freely.
 SPREADING THE FABRIC
TO FORM A LAY
• Vacuum facility is there in the table for CAM cutting
and usually has a plastic covering at the top of the
lay. Any fabric lay maybe decreased 3/4th its width by
vacuum.
• For auto spreaders the lay needs to be transferred
from spreading to cutting table and it takes place
through air floatation process.
• Shade sorting of fabric(same shade rolls to be used
together).after9-10 fabrics an interleaving paper is
used so that fabric counting gets easy.
• Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability. width
of the marker to be set only as per the narrowest
width of the fabric. while spreading, edge alignment
takes place on one side only.
• Bowing or angular distortion of the fabric is avoided
by tearing the fabric instead of cutting.
 SPREADING THE FABRIC
TO FORM A LAY
• Rolls of fabric should be big enough to prevent end loss.
• Alignment of plies
• Correct ply tension. for knits the fabric needs to be
relaxed before they are spreaded.in autospreaders,slack
feeding ensures zero tension in the spread.
• Elimination of static electricity for manmade fabric
where spreading takes place by earthing the table or by
increasing the humidity of the department.
• Thermoplastic fabric sticks together when it is cut. so,
the knives are cooled by oil and cold air blowing method.
anti fusion papers are also used that lubricates the
knives.
• Avoidance of distortion in spread while cutting by
inserting a glazed paper at the end of the lay.
 Elimination of fabric
faults:

1. Make through-by leaving faults in garments

and inspecting out at the end of manufacture
and designating them as seconds.
2. Splice marking-Cutting out the defective
portion by creating a splice. splice marks are
marked on the edges of the table before
layering.
3. Sort and cut method-faults are marked by a
strip of contrasting fabric at the side of the
lay and later recutting the piece.
 The Cutting of the
Fabric
• The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts as
replicas of the pattern pieces in the marker. In
achieving this objective, certain requirements must be
fulfilled.
1. Precision of the Cut
The garments must be cut with as much precision as
possible.
2. Clean Edges
The raw edges of the fabric should not show fraying or
snagging. Such defects come from an imperfectly
sharpened knife
3. Unscorched, unfused Edges
 The Cutting of the
Fabric
•
The built up of heat in the knife blade comes from the
friction of the blade passing through the fabrics.
Solutions to this problems lie in well sharpened blade,
the use of antifusion paper, spraying the blade with
silicon lubricant, slowing down the speed of the cutting
blade and reducing the height of the lay.
4. Support of the Lay
The cutting system must provide not only to support the
fabric but also to allow the blade to penetrate the
lowest ply of a spread and sever all the fibres
5. Consistent Cutting
The cutting system must cut accurately irrespective of
the height of the pile.
 Systems of cutting
• Hand Shears : Hand shears are
normally used when cutting only single or
double plies. The method is flexible enough
to accommodate any fabric construction
and pattern shapes. It is appropriate for
made-to-measure garments. But it
consumes a lot of time and the consequent
high labour cost per garment.
• Straight Knife
It consists of a base plate, usually on roller
for ease of movement, a stand carrying a
straight vertical blade with varying edge
characteristics and an electric motor above it,
a handle for the cutter to direct the blade and
a sharpening device. The base plate on its
roller slider under the glazed paper which is
spread below the bottom ply of fabric in the
lay.
 Straight Knife

• Two kinds of power are required to operate a

straight knife. Motor power drives the
reciprocating blade and operator power drives
the knife through the lay.
Advantages: It is most common means of
cutting lays because it is versatile, portable,
cheaper than a band knife, more accurate on
curves than a round knife, relatively reliable
and easy to maintain.
 Straight knife parts
• (a) Machine base plate.
• (b) The blade housing.
• (c) The power system.
• (d) Blade drive
• (e) The cutting blade.
• (f) The blade sharpener device
• (g) The operating handle
• (h) The blade guard.
Straight knife
 Straight knife
specification
• The standard cutting heights for st. knife
machines are:
• 4”,5”,6”,7”,8”,9” and up to 13”.
• -The motor determines the cutting power
of the cutting machine. Most st.-knife
cutting machines come in 1/3 ,1/4 ,or ½ hp
with speeds of 3500 or 1750rpm.
• -Blade cooling systems are optional
auxiliaries. They are not necessary for all
cutting machines.
 Straight Knife
specification
• Blade types:
1. Straight
2. Saw tooth-for thick fabric like
canvas/jeans.
3. Wavy fabric-for synthetic fabric
since heat generated is low.
4. Serrated-for very tough fabric
 Disadvantages Of
straight knife
• Many st.-knife blades tend to wear
out faster at the lower end of the
blade.
• The lower end of a straight blade
gets more wear and tear than the
upper part because the lower end
cuts in every spread, whereas the top
part cuts only in those spreads high
enough to reach it.
Rotary cutting machines
• -the basic difference between the rotary
and straight machines are the blade shape
and blade thrust. The rotary cutting
machine has a circular knife whose edge
rotates counterclockwise into the
superposed plies as the machine is
propelled laterally into the spread.
• -This cuts the fabric with one way thrust
of the blade edge, whereas the st. knife
cuts with a two way thrust ,up and down.
Rotary cutting machines
Rotary cutting machines
• -The cutting capacity of rotary
machines is governed by knife
diameter ,motor horse power and
motor speed.
• -Standard rotary machines are made
with the following blade diameter: 2
1/2”,3”,3 ½”,4”,5”,5 ½”,6”,7”,8” and
12”.
 Rotary cutting machines
•

Advantage: It is a fast machine , excellent

for cutting straight lines or gradual
curves.
Disadvantages: It is difficult for a circular
blade to negotiate a tight curve, such as an
arm hole.
 Band knife machines.
• Band knife blades are narrower than straight-
knife blades .
• This permits more precise perpendicular cutting
on small intricate curves and angles.
• The turning of the block on the narrower blade
disrupts the superposed plies less than the
wider blade of a turning st. knife in the same
block.
• Tables usually have an air floatation system.
• The fabric is either pulled back or pushed into
the cutting blade.
 Band knife machines.
• Advantages: Band knifs are used when a
higher standard of cutting accuracy is
required. They are used more in mens wear
than in women’s wear as they are often
used to cut large garment parts, such as
large panels of jackets and overcoats.
Band knife machines
 Servo cutter
• Has an overhead servo
motor with adjustible
speed and suspension
system.
• It has a swivel arm by
which the cutter maybe
rotated horizontally and
intricate curves may be
cut easily.
• It acts as a bridge
between fully computer
controlled cutting and
manual cutting.
 Computer controlled
cutting knives
• Cutting bed made of
nylon bristle.
• 4 servomotors are used:2
for x direction
displacement,1 for y
direction displacement 1
for rotation..
• The initial positioning
(reference pt) takes
place manually.
• 1 cutter can
accommodate 4 cutting
table.
 CAM
• Lay height is maximum 8cms.(after compression.
• Cutting speed -5-12m/min(max speed can be even 80
m/min.
• Blade width3/32”-3/8” and thickness- 1/32”-1/8”.
• Cutting direction given through a floppy.
• Usually cut without the marker.so,we need to confirm
the programme of the floppy before loading it.
 Lazer cutting
• A laser with a beam of
light can be focused into
a small spot-0.25mm
produces a localized
increase of temperature.
• Cutting by burning,
melting and vaporizing.
• A stationery gas lazer,
cutting head with a
system of mirrors and a
computer are the
components of this
cutter.
 Lazer cutting
• Cutting speed is about 10-13m/min.
• It is advantageous since knife sharpening is not
reqd and the cut can start from any pt.
• No. of plies used for cutting are always less.
• Used in leather industry.also used for cutting
of sail fabric.
• Plasma cutting:
1. Cutting done by high velocity jet of ionized
gas(argon)
2. Used for cutting stainless steels and
aluminium mostly.sometime used for textile
cutting.
• Water jet cutting:
1. Water jet of 0.2mm nozzle and 4000bar
pressure is used with a high velocity of 3
times as that of sound. the spray tears the
fabric by its impact.
2. Mostly used for plastic and leather cutting.
disadvantage is that the speed of spray
decreases inside the spread.so the lower plies
are not cut sharply.
• Ultrasonic cutting:
1.Ultrasonically driven knife blade is used.
2.Vibration frequency of 20khz produce 1/20mm
movement of the blade.
3.Single or only a few lays atmost can be cut.
 Intermittent cutting
• Scissors-rt and left handed
• Die:
1. Also called clickers and mostly used in
the shoe industry. either made of steel
strip or forged die (alloys of iron).
2. Consists of 4 parts :
(a)Table block,(b)ram head,(c)motor,(d)ram
drive system.
 Other machines
1. Notchers-reqd for
alignment of pattern
parts during sewing.
• Both straight and v
nothches are used.
• Hot notchers are
used to prevent
fraying after
marking.
2.Drills-reqd for
position marking away
from the edges.eg
position of
pockets,darts etc.
• Cold type,,hot type
and hypodermic(or
dye spot)drill are
used which leaves
spots.
• The holes should be
covered up by the
fabric when stitched
to form the garment.
 Preparation for the
sewing room
• Bundling-the lay divided into further
divisons so as to easily move the pieces.
• Shade separation control-better to do the
separation before cutting
• Indicating right side of the fabric
• Work ticketing-informations like style
no,size,no of gmt in bundle,issue date etc
are given in the ticket.
 Cut order planning
• It is the process that seeks to
minimize total production costs
through planning and management of
preproduction processes
 Cut order planning
• Cut order planning involves the following
responsibilities:
1. Examining incoming orders & piece goods
availability.
2. Determining volume ,size ratios ,widths
and sectioning procedures for marker
making and spreading.
3. Determining whether there are available
markers or new markers need to be made
 Cut order planning
4. Developing instructions for optimum
marker making and fabric utilization.
5. Releasing orders for marker
making,spreading and cutting
• end