Presentation

on
Fusing
Machines
 Introduction
The process of attaching an fusible interlining
to a top-cloth (outer fabric). The term ´
fusible interlining ´ is generally defined as a
base fabric having a deposit of thermoplastic
adhesive glue (usually on one surface), which
can be bonded to another fabric by the
application of heat and pressure .
 Cont…

Fusing is a support for smaller parts of a

fabric in a dress, jacket, garment, or other
clothing. To keep the different parts of
clothing stay stable, interlining or some kind
of a support like fusing is used.
 Need for fusing

Fusing is done to achieve any one or multiple

of the following objectives in a garment or
made ups:
Improve dimensional stability & shape
retention / crease recovery property of outer
fabric
Improve aesthetic value, appearance and
handle of fused part
 Cont…
Value addition to the garment
Reduce stitch puckering & increase seam
strength
Valuable aid in production for eliminating
some stitching operation & better reliability of
reproducing consistent good quality
Increased ease of handling, faster & better
production
 Requirements
Aesthetic look of the garment should be maintained
as desired by the designer.
Strength of the laminate must be sufficient to
withstand handling during subsequent operations.
Fusing process must not causes thermal shrinkage.
Fabrics must not change colour i.e. dye sublimation
should not occur.
Piles of fabrics should not be crushed due to
pressure.
 Benefits
Manufacturers:
Garments can be produced with a consistent
quality of interlining construction
Time and labor costs are saved by
eliminating the hand operations required to
attach the interlining to the top-cloth
The garment has a cleaner and fresher
appearance upon its initial presentation
 Benefits

Wearer:
Garment durability is increased
 The garment retains its original shape after
repeated dry cleaning or washing
 Crease-recovery time is considerably reduced
 Fusing Methods
The relationship between the top-cloth and the
fusible influences the fusing conditions, and it is
essential that the press can achieve the correct
combination for the particular method employed.
The most widely used methods are described in
terms of the assembly of the cloth and fusible
components prior to fusing
Single Fusing: The fusible is positioned on top of
the cloth.
Reverse Fusing: The cloth is positioned on top of
the fusible.
Sandwich Fusing: Here, two components are fused
in one operation, typically with the cloth on the
outside and the two fusible in the middle.
Double Fusing: This consists of fusing two fusible,
positioned one on top of the other, to the top-cloth
in one operation, for example, fusing the front and
chest-piece fusible to the fore part of a jacket or
coat.
Components Of Fusing

Temperature Pressure

Time Cooling
 Temperature
Fusible interlinings are coated with specially
formulated thermoplastic adhesives of
various types
Each type has its own individual
characteristics but generally speaking the
adhesive must be heated to a point within a
minimum and maximum temperature to
ensure optimum performance.
For a good quality fusible interlining the glue-line
temperature is generally mentioned.
If this temperature is not reached fusing will not
take place and if it is exceeded problems of strike
back, adhesive migration and low bond strength can
be experienced.
It is the temperature at the adhesive layer that is
critical, i.e. the “Interface Temperature” or “glue-
line temperature”.
It is important that in every fusing operation the
fusible achieves this temperature.
 It is possible to take measurements of the glue-line
temperature but it is more common to use the dial
temperature and by experience adjust this to obtain
the necessary temperature at the interface.
 The temperature setting on the press is normally kept
10-150 higher than the glue line temperature specified
to account for loss of heat in transfer & ensure correct
melting of adhesive.
 Normally temperature is automatically controlled by
reliable / efficient thermostats within ± 3% - 5%
range.
 Uneven Temperature
Causes of uneven temperature: Uneven temperature in a

press may not be solely due to the quality of the thermostats

fitted. Two other factors that influence temperature are:

The type of heating elements used and their position in the

heated areas of the press.

In flat-bed presses the very opening and closing of the

press allows hot air to escape and cold air to enter resulting

heat loss. Even in continuous fusing presses where this

heat loss is much less, some still occurs

 Pressure
It is necessary to apply pressure to the parts
being fused to ensure;
Intimate contact is effected between the
fusible interlining and the shell fabric.
Adequate heat transfer takes place
Controlled even penetration of the adhesive
into the fibres of the shell fabric.
 Pressure is normally applied via plates/bucks. The
energy to do this is normally supplied by pneumatic,
hydraulic or manual sources and transferred to the
pressure surfaces by means of cylinders or mechanical
linkages. For a good quality fusible interlining the
required pressure to be applied is generally mentioned.
 Depending upon the viscous / flow property of glue the
pressure is recommended. Pressure is applied in fusing
press mechanically or pneumatically. It is also decide
by the structure / surface property of other fabric.
 Time
 The function of this time element is to compensate
for the delay in the transmission of heat from the
source to the fusible agent. It is simply the time
duration the composite should be exposed to heat.
 This time component relates to the time when the
two plates of the press actually meet with the
correct specific pressure, or the time for which the
assemblies are actually in the heating zone if a
continuous machine is employed.
The type of interlining being used i.e.
whether it has a low or high melt adhesive
system, or if it has a light or heavy weight
substrate.
The type of application for which the fusible
is to be used - i.e. small or large areas in a
garment.
The nature of the shell fabric(s) being fused.
The type of fusing equipment employed
 Fusing Process
Satisfactory fusing depends on the application of three basic
parameters in correct sequence – Temperature, Pressure,
Time and Cooling. All these parameters are required in
certain limited combinations & should be adequately
controlled.
First heat should be applied for certain time to raise the
temperature of interlining-fabric composite to glue-line
temperature and then the pressure is applied to enable
the adhesive dots of interlining penetrate the base fabric.
Heat and pressure should not be applied
together as this may result flattening of
adhesive dots, resulting unnecessary
stiffness in the fused fabric due to increasing
area of contact (fusing area) between fabric
and interlining. Flattening of adhesive dots
also result less penetration of adhesive onto
the base fabric thus reduced peel-bond
strength.
Heat Shock
When the interlining-fabric composite enters the
fusing zone then the composite is suddenly
subjected to very high temperature, i.e. from
room temperature to almost 1400c. This sudden
change of temperature (heat shock) harms
certain fabrics like viscose etc. This heat shock
does not result any visual or immediate damage
to fabric composite, but make the fibre brittle
and may even change the texture of fabric.
 Fusing Machines
The mechanical medium required for fusing
is the fusing press. Presses basically fall
into two categories, with different modes of
operation. The assemblies are either fused
on discontinuous systems or on
continuous conveyor type systems
 Discontinuous System : This is a static
method whereby the assembly is fed or
positioned onto the bottom plate and the
head or the top plate is closed over it.
 Continuous operations : This type of
machine has an endless conveyer system
for transporting the assemblies successfully
through the heating, pressure and cooling
stages.
 Discontinuous Systems
Hand Iron:
 This system effects fusing by placing a hand iron
on top of the assembly to be fused (interlining
uppermost) which is supported by an ironing table.
 Certain interlinings, especially those that can be
fused at comparatively low temperatures, low
pressure and short times, may be suitable for
fusing by hand iron.
 Disadvantages
Temperature control and distribution over the heated

surface is poor and temperature difference can be large.

 Due to the lightweight and small surface area of the iron

and the iron and the hand-applied pressure, it is

impossible to measure and apply pressure uniformly.

Time has to be controlled manually.
Can cause shrinkage in the top cloth.
Cause the resin to replasticize.
Operator based
 Flatbed Fusing Machine
 These systems effect fusing by placing the assembly to be
fused on metal plates, one or both of which can be heated.
 In a typical flat bed press the upper plate is electrically heated
and unpadded, whereas the bottom platen is unheated and
padded with a resilient cover of wool, felt or silicone.
 Top and bottom bucks can be covered with a PTFE (Poly Tetra
Fluoro Ethylene) cover to prevent staining, adhesive build up,
adhesion of garment parts to the buck and assist in
maintaining a clean surface. Heat is provided by an electric
heater element embedded in the pressure plate.
 The heating element must be such that an accurate and
uniform distribution of the temperature is obtained over
the plate surface.
 Closing the plates provides pressure together by
pneumatic, mechanical or hydraulic means.
 Pressure must be applied accurately and uniformly and it is
important that the pressure system is free from possible
distortion, either from mechanical effects or by heat.
 The upper and lower plates must join perfectly together
when pressure is applied.
 There are three basic types of flat bed fusing machine
namely scissor action, single tray and twin tray.
 Features
 An automatic timer is generally provided which controls
the pressing cycle. In some cases the opening and closing
time is also included in the cycle.
 An improvement in flat bed presses is the tray system
where, the assemblies are either made up on the press
tray or brought to the tray pre-prepared.
 The tray is then pushed or powered to its fussing
position.
 When the fusing cycle is completed, the tray can be
manually removed or automatically rejected.
Flat bed presses with twin-tray systems are
considerably more productive than those with
single-tray systems because the time lag
caused by waiting for the fusing cycle to end
is considerably reduced.
The main advantage of the twin-tray system
is that, while one tray is being fused, the
other can be stripped and loaded.
 Continuous System

These fusing machines are all based on the

same principle, hereby the unit for fusing is
transported through the fusing processes by
means of a powered conveyor belt. There
are two systems in general use, return feed
and end-to-end feed
 Heating Mechanism
Heating plates: These consist of two heating
surfaces, positioned apart, with one above the
conveyor belt and one below the conveyor belt.
The surfaces are slightly arched so as to intensify
the heat diffusion.
The lower heating surface is usually longer than the
upper, and, in relation to the conveyor direction, the
lower heat source is positioned after the higher one.
Both panels can be separately controlled,
which enables any temperature profiles to
be achieved.
There can be series of upper and lower
heaters, which can create different heat
zones.
Cylinder heating: The cylinder consists of two parts, the

inner cylinder, a stationary assembly in which the heating

element are mounted; the outer cylinder, which rotates

around the inner cylinder.

This principle ensures that the heat generated by the inner

core is evenly distributed all over the cylinder mantle.

Since approximately half of the cylinder-mantle surface area

is in the actual heating zone at any given moment, the

remaining area regains the heat lost through transference.

These types of machines generally have a pre-heating device

located under the lower conveyor belt, between the entry

zone and cylinder.

Pressure: With the drum/belt presses, minimal

pressure is applied continuously from the point of entry

by the belt tension against the drum or between two

conveyors.
Thus pressure is applied at all times during the heating

up process until the assembly leaves the press.

This minimal pressure is necessary to avoid slippage

between interlining and upper fabric.

Adequate control of the belt tension across the width is

essential to ensure even pressure.

With conveyor type presses the actual pressure is applied

by rollers to the previously heated assembly, at the outlet

of the press.
Since pressure is applied as a line pressure at the contact

of the two rollers, the time is very small compared with

flat bed presses and thus the pressures required are

different and the pressing can be more critical.

Fusing time depends on the speed on the conveyor belt,

the faster the belt runs, the shorter the time. All

machines have a belt speed controller which can be

adjusted to give various dwell times in the heated zone.

 Return feed
This conveyor system is one upper and one lower drum

surface, where the drum is the actual conveyor of the

cloth and fusibles. The function of the upper or cover

belt is to ensure that both cloth and fusibles are held

accurately in the correct positions while being

transported through the fusing processes. While the

drum is positively driven, the speed of both (the drum

and the conveyor) must be synchronised in order to

prevent the compression or extension of the materials.

 Major Parts
Belt Cleaner: Continuously cleans the belt from adhesive
contamination
Belt wrapping prevention device: Adjust belt tension and avoids belts
from wrapping.
Pressure Roller: Apply actual pressure at roller nip point.
Rotary strip-off device: After fusing the fused composites tends to
stick to the drum, this device strips of the fused composites from the
drum.
Drum cleaner: Continuously cleans the drum from adhesive
contamination
Teflon Belt: Woven belt made out of Kevlar fibre, coated with teflon.
Drum continuous fusing machine:

Completely closed chamber, no heat loss.

Gradual heating not available, chances of heat shock
No compensating heater, thickness variation of interlining

composites may result unsatisfactory fusing.

Comparatively cheaper (than flat continuous fusing machine)
The interlining composite travels through the fusing zone,

the travel path is not horizontal rather curve, so there are

chances of distortion during travel.

The interlining composite travels through the fusing zone,

chances of distortion during feeding

 End-to-end feed:

The parts are conveyed from the loading area

at one end of the machine, via the fusing
area, to the take-off area at the opposite end
of the machine. This system is used where
production levels require continuous loading
and feeding on the parts of the operators.