FUSING
By: Ashutosh Kumar Ashutosh vatsa Kr. Pramendra Sinha S.k. Pegu
What is Fusing?
It is a process of attaching an interlining, especially to the part of a garment that requires stiffness. Some of the application area of Fusing in a garment are placket, collar, cuff, waistband, men's jacket forefront, etc.
Requirements for Fusing
Base Cloth
Interlining
Coating System
Resins
Base Clothes (Substrate)
It is an interlining material onto which the thermoplastic resin is coated, sprayed or printed. Properties of Garment influenced: Handle and Bulk Shape Retention Shrinkage Control Crease Recovery Appearance Durability
Types:
Woven
Knitted
Non-woven
Types of Interlining
Woven Produced from animal hair, viscose, cotton, polyester or acrylic fiber. Maximum control on shrinkage and shape retention. Varying properties in warp and weft direction. Knitted Produced from Polyester, polyamide, acrylic and viscose fiber. Elasticity to the fused Components. Soft and lofty handle. Non-woven Originated from paper industry. Mixture of fiber held together at bond sites. Factors affecting end performance: fiber, web formation, bonding.
Knitted Interlining
Woven Interlining
Non-Woven Interlining
Non woven Interlining
Extensively used in Industry. Properties could be modified as per end uses. Fibers: mostly Synthetic fiber like viscose, nylon, polyester or acrylic is used. Web Formation: orientation of fiber in substrate
Dry laid web formation Wet laid web formation Spun bonded webs
Bonding: locking of fiber together.
Mechanical bonding Chemical bonding
Resins
The material applied to base cloth and when subjected to heat and pressure, they become the sole bonding agent between Top cloth and Interlining. Thermoplasticity, change with heat, is the basis of fusible interlinings. In cold state, it is not adhesive, when subjected to heat and pressure, melts and creates a bond.
Factors affecting suitability of Resins:
Upper limit temperature
generally not more than 1750c, should not damage top cloth
Lower limit temperature
generally not less than 1100c, to ensure adequacy of bonding
Cleanability
To withstand the washing and cleaning throughout life of garment
Thermoplasticity
Change in heat and pressure is sufficient enough to form a bond with top cloth
Handle
Should contribute to desire handle of final laminate
Safety
Harmless in processing and end-use
Types of Resins
Polyethylene : used for wash and wear garments, washable and Dry-cleanable. Polyamide : Dry-cleanable. Polyester : Cheaper, wide range of fusing temperature (650-1200C). PVC : used for siliconized rainwear fabric, requires softening with plasticizers. Resin Blends : used for specific purposes, blend of above mentioned maerial.
Distribution of Resin
Inadequate bonding (incorrect) Strike through and strike Back (incorrect) Correct bonding with good Penetration of Adhesive (correct)
Components of Fusing
Temperature
Time
Cooling
Pressure
Temp. is 13001600C, Use of applied electroTemp. mechani should cal in be timing the devices range of to 50C measur Too e time high Time Temp. applied could depend Reduc cause s upon es the strike type latent through and tempera or strike nature ture backto of resin, 300C Used substrat Use of to e, top water establis cloth cooled h an and plates, intimate fusing aircontact equipm circulati between ents. on, to-cloth vacuum. and fusible. Applie d via
Fusing Methods
Single Fusing
Fusible positioned on the top of the Cloth
Reverse Fusing
Cloth is Positioned on the top of Fusible
Sandwich Fusing
Fusing 2 components in 1 operation Cloth on the outside, 2 fusible in the middle
Double Fusing
Fusing 2 fusible positioned one on the top of other, to the top cloth in 1 operation
Top Fusing
Fusible components are positioned on the top of the cloth and heat I applied directly to the top cloth
Coating System
The process in which thermoplastic resin is deposited or secured onto the substrate material. It involves the application of carefully selected Particle size fraction of Particular resin being used.
Coating Methods:
Scatter coating:
o o o o o o
largest particle size 150 to 400 microns Specifically designed scattering heads provides scatter under automatic control Resin is softened in an oven Pressed on base cloth and cooled Cheapest method Product is not uniform and flexible
Coating Methods (Contd):
Dry dot printed coating:
Powdered resin fills engraved holes on the roller Base cloth passed over heated roller Then against engraved rollers The powdered resin adheres to cloth in from of dots Followed by oven heating for permanent adhesion Temp and pressure of rollers depends on resin types Pattern : 3 12 dots /cm Light weight fabric - small dot high concentration Heavy weight fabric large dot small concentration
Coating Methods (Contd):
Paste coating:
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Resin powder blended with water or other agents to form smooth paste Printed on base cloth Heat removes water Gives precisely shaped dots ANUSHA Gives fine dots Used in shirt colour fusible
Performed system Extrusion laminating Emulsion laminating
Defects in fusing Process:
Fusing Equipments
Flat Bed Press
Continuous Fusing Machine
Hand Iron
Steam Press
High Frequency Fusing
Flat Bed Press
Padded top and Bottom bucks Heating Element in 1 or both bucks Bottom Buck Static, Top buck can be moved vertically Option of Single tray and Twin tray systems Low Productivity The three processes are Loading, Fusing and Cooling.
Flat Bed Press
Continuous Fusing Press
Use of Conveyor Belt as a mean of transport Synchronized belt speed Heating plates, cylinder, rollers, and heating zones are used Rubber covered steel rollers to apply pressure Air cooling and water cooling systems Take off could be done manually or mechanically
Continuous Fusing Press
High Frequency Fusing
Multiple plies are stacked up (up to 70 mm height) and fused simultaneously High Productivity Heat from high frequency energy No shrinkage or color change Dielectric heat: plates generate high frequency field, heat effect is distributed uniformly in length ,width and full height between platen
High Frequency Fusing
Heating effect is different for different polymers Adhesive is heated up faster than fabric or interlining Time depend on capacity of High Frequency unit and weight of load to be fused
o
E.g.; 30 Kw unit ; load 5-20 kg : 1-3 min
Disadvantage: the press needs to be set for fusing materials on basis of fibre, content, weight thickness and moisture content
High Frequency Fusing
Manufacturers:
Shanghai Dahe New Material Technology Co., Ltd Rocmachine Co., Ltd. Tianjin Tian-Yin Machinery And Electron Co., Ltd.
Quality Control
Temperature Test papers : reacts by changing color. Pyrometers : high accuracy, rapid response, costly. Stop watch: High accuracy. Peel strength Test Dry-clean and wash Test.
Control System
Thank you
Bibliography:
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Fusing Technology by Gerry Cooklin www.fusingpressindia.com machinery.fibre2fashion.com/7/fusing-machine www.apparelntextile.com/products_apparel_interlini ngs.html
