Patternmaking Principles
Flat Patternmaking Process
Working Pattern Design
Pattern plot: Test fit:
pattern: manipulation: pattern:
• Any pattern used • Placing lines on a • Slashing and • A process where • The finished
as a base for traced copy of the spreading or fitting problems pattern that
manipulation working pattern pivoting a pattern are located and contains all the
when generating relating directly to to alter its original corrected. features related to
design patterns. the design shape. the design.
features. The lines • The new pattern
are used as shape represents
guidelines for design features of
pattern the garment.
manipulation.
Three Flat Patternmaking Principles
Design analysis Major Principles
• Identifying which principles • #1 Dart manipulation
and techniques to apply – (relocating darts)
– to develop correct pattern • #2 Adding fullness
shapes – (adding more fabric in the
– Result: 3D replica of the design)
design
• #3 Contouring
– (fitting to the hollows of a
model's figure)
Principle #1 Dart Manipulation
• Changing the location of
a dart within the
pattern frame.
• REMEMBER:
– The dart is responsible
for fit
– The dart will ALWAYS be
part of the design in one
form or another
Principle #2 Added Fullness
• Applies when design
fullness is greater than the
dart excess can provide.
• Added fullness is not
directed to the pivotal
point (bust).
• Adding to the pattern's
outline also indicates that
added material is needed
for the design.
Principle #3 Contouring
• Fitting to the contour
above, below, and
between the bust,
leaving the dart excess
to be absorbed into
stylelines or gathers.
• Gapping ease caused by
cutout neck lines and
armholes is transferred
to be absorbed.
PRINCIPLE # 1 DART
MANIPULATION—BODICES
How to Manipulate Darts
• Two methods (same result)
– Pivot
– Slash & spread
• Pivot point:
– Designated point on the pattern
(e.g. bust point).
– Pattern is slashed to, or pivoted
from, this point.
– Allows dart to be moved without
changing the pattern’s size or fit.
• Dart point
• Dart leg
• Dart intake
Corollary to Principle #1—Dart Equivalent
• A dart can be converted
into:
– Pleats
– Tuck-darts
– Gathers
• functions as a dart
• fit is not adversely
affected
Demonstration of Principle #1 Dart
Manipulation: Bodices (Ch. 4):
Front Bodices: Back Bodices:
• 1. Single-dart manipulation • 5. Shoulder Dart Multi-
– (slash and spread)
dispersion p. 85
– Mid-Shoulder Dart p. 79
• 2. Single-dart manipulation
• 6. Back Neck Dart p. 86
– (pivot) • 7. Dart Excess Transferred to
– Side Dart p.82 Armhole p. 86
• 3. Double-dart manipulation
– (slash and spread)
– Mid-Shoulder and Waist Dart p. 92
• 4. Double-dart manipulation
– (pivot)
– Shoulder-Tip and Waist Dart p. 95
PRINCIPLE # 1 DART
MANIPULATION—SKIRTS
Flexibility of Skirt Darts
• Darts may be
– Pivoted
– Combined
– Converted into dart
equivalents
• Pleats
• Tuck darts
• Gathers
Skirt Dart Manipulation
• Transferring dart excess
to hemline
– A-line skirt
• One dart converted to
flare
– Flared skirt
• Two darts converted to
flare
Demonstration of Principle #1 Dart
Manipulation: Skirts (pgs. 230 – 244)
Front and Back Skirts: Example: Combined Dart (One Dart)
• 1. Curved Darts p. 233
• 2. One Dart p. 243
• 3. A-line Flared p. 239-240
– (slash and spread)
• 4. Flared p. 244
– (pivot)
Review Question
• What is a principle? • A fact that does not
– A changeable fact change
– A fact that does not
change
– The head of a school
– All are correct
Review Question
• What is a corollary? • An adjunct to a
– Capillaries principle
– A type of fabric
– An adjunct to a principle
– All are correct
Review Question
• What is the primary • To take up unneeded
purpose of a dart? excess
– To create designs
– It has no purpose
– To cause fitting problems
– To take up unneeded
excess
Review Question
• Where do basic darts • Dominant areas of the
usually appear? figure
– Dominant areas of the
figure
– Wherever creative effect
is needed
– No particular location
– Everywhere
Review Question
• Where is the dart • Armhole
excess located in basic
casual garments?
– Hemline
– Neckline
– Armhole
– Dart is ignored
Review Question
• In what direction does • Downward
the side dart excess lay?
– Upward
– No particular direction
– Downward
– All directions are correct
Review Question
• What is a dart point? • The end of a stitched
– Damage in the fabric dart
– The end of a stitched
dart
– There is no such point
– The same thing as a bust
point
Review Question
• What is a dart • It functions as a dart
equivalent?
– It has no meaning
– More excess than
needed
– It functions as a dart
– Multiple darts
