Block Pattern
Construction
Lecture # 03
By
Khurram Iftikhar
Block Pattern
• A block is a foundation pattern that reflects the size, shape and posture
of the human figure without the inclusion of style features.
• It is constructed according to the measurements for the central base
size of a size range or an individual person.
• A copy of the block is adapted to create a garment style.
• It is advisable to always retain a copy of the block patterns for future
use.
• A newly constructed block must be tested by making it into a garment.
• This garment is either fitted on the individual customer, or for
wholesale production, on a sample of women who represent the
potential customers.
Block Pattern
• The advantage of using block patterns is that they are a permanent
record of the correct fit.
• The advantage of designing patterns within a computer program is
that the blocks can include all the gradings for other sizes.
• This means that when a new style is created the other sizes are
automatically graded.
• Consequently, pattern construction and pattern grading are
completed in one operation.
Block Pattern
• There are several methods that can be applied to computer use.
• One method is drafting a block pattern using the measurements
from a size chart.
• These drafts can be either constructed directly using a computer
system, or manually and then the pattern shapes digitized.
• For those skilled in modelling or draping on a workroom stand a
block can be created by this method and then digitized.
• Thirdly, a pattern can be taken from an actual garment manually or
using a computer.
Block Types
Primary Blocks;
• Straight skirt
• Fitted bodice
• Straight sleeve
• Trouser
Secondary Blocks Adapted from Primary Blocks:
• Semi-fitted sleeve
• Fitted sleeve
• Fitted one-piece dress
• Straight one-piece dress
• Semi-fitted one-piece dress
• Fitted dart-less top for stretch fabric
• Dart-less blouse for woven fabric
Construction of Primary
Block Patterns
Straight Skirt Block Size 12
Measurements Required
Measurements Body Ease Half Pattern
(a) Waist 70.0 +4.0 37.0
(separate Skirt Waist band) 70.0 +2.0 36.0
(b) Upper hip (10.0 below waist 90.0 +4.0 47.0
level)
(c) Hip (20.0 below waist level) 96.0 +4.0 50.0
(d) Centre back (from waist to knee) 60.0 ---- 60.0
(e) Side seam (from waist to knee) 61.0 ---- 61.0
(f) Centre front (from waist to knee) 60.0 ---- 60.0
Construction Lines
• Construct a basic rectangle, horizontal length 61 cm (side seam), vertical length
25 cm (quarter hip girth of skirt pattern).
• For the following construction lines the basic rectangle lines can be copied and
off-set.
1. Construct the waist level vertically 1 cm from
the side waist level.
2. Construct the upper hip level vertically 10 cm
from the waist level.
3. Construct the hip level vertically 20 cm from
the waist level.
Waist-line Suppression
• Calculate the waist suppression by subtracting half the waist plus ease from the half the
hip plus ease (50-37 = 13 cm).
• The size of the darts can vary according to the figure shape.
• The suppression suggested here for half the skirt is for an average proportioned size 12.
Back dart = 4.5 cm Front dart = 2.5 cm
Side seam = 6.0 cm
• This is for one dart in the front and back of the half skirt pattern.
• If the darts appear too large for some figure types or fabrics, they can be divided into
two darts.
• The side seam suppression is divided equally at 3.0 cm on both the back and front
skirt.
• Again, this can be varied according to the figure shape.
Side Seam Shaping
• (4) From the side waist level,
mark a point for the side waist at
3 cm towards the CB or CF.
• Mark another point from the side
seam at the upper hip level at 1
cm.
• Construct a line connecting these
two points to nothing at the hip
level.
Waistline
• (5) Draw a straight line from the
top of the side waist level seam to
the Centre waist level.
• This will give the same slope to
the waistline for both back and
front skirts.
• If required this can be varied after
fitting trials for wholesale
production, or to an individual’s
measurements.
Basic Straight Skirt Shape
• (6) Trace from this draft two copies of the basic straight skirt shape.
• One is for the back skirt, the other for the front.
• Include the upper hip and hip level lines.
Back Waist Dart
• (7) Insert a dart at a mid point on the back waistline (width 4.5 cm, length 14 cm).
• The center of this dart should be a right angle to the waistline.
Back Waist Dart
• (8) Transfer this dart temporarily to the side seam so that the waistline can be
curved smoothly by adding points to the straight line and moving them if
necessary.
• The back waist should measure 17.5 cm.
Back Waist Dart
• (9) Return the dart to its original position.
• (10) Position balance mark notches on the side seams at the hip level.
Front Waist Dart
• (11) Insert a dart (width 2.5 cm, length 8 cm) on the waistline at 14.5 cm from
the CF (two-thirds of the front waist).
• The center of this dart should be at right angles to the waistline.
Front Waist Dart
• (12) Transfer this dart temporarily to the side seam so that the waistline can be
curved smoothly by adding points to the straight line and moving them if
necessary.
• The front waist should measure 19.5 cm.
Front Waist Dart
• (13) Return the dart to its original position.
• (14) Position balance mark notches on the side seams at the hip level to match
the back side seam.
