SEWING
Fayyaz Ahmad
5th Semester
SEWING
“The objective of sewing are the
construction of seams which
combines the required
standards of appearance and
performance with an
appropriate level of economy
in production.”
IMPORTANT FACTORS
The seam type
The stitch type
The sewing machine feeding mechanism
which moves the fabric, the needle, and
enables a succession of stitches to be
formed.
The needle which inserts the thread into the
fabric.
The thread which forms the stitch which
either holds the fabric together, neatens it
or decorate it.
STITCH
A stitch, which is the elementary basis of
sewing, can be formed without the fabric,
within fabric, or through or on the fabric.
A STITCH in one unit of conformation of
thread resulting from repeatedly passing a
strand or strands and/or loop of thread into
or through a material at uniformity spaced
intervals to form a series of stitches.
SEAM:
isa joint consisting of a sequence of stitches uniting two
or more pieces of material and is used for assembling
parts in the production of sewn items.
A Stitching consists of sequence of stitches for finishing
an edge or for ornamental purpose or both in preparing
parts for assembly.
SEAM TYPES
Seam determined by:
Aesthetic standards
Strength
Durability
Comfort
DIMENSION OF SEAMS
Length
Width
Depth
Seam Length:
is the total distance covered by the
continuous series of stitches. Side seam,
shoulder seam
Seam Width:
isthe width of a seam allowance, the seam
heading of a lapped or a top stitched seam.
A seam allowance is measured from the cut edge
of the fabric to the main line of stitches.
Seam Depth:
is the thickness or compressibility of the
seam
SEAM CLASSES
The basis of the seam classes is the position of
the fabric plies relevant to each other.
The Super Imposed Seam:
The superimposed seam is used to join two or more
pieces of material (fabric or otherwise) together. It
is created by one ply of fabric being stacked
(superimposed) upon another with their right sides
(the one that will show when the item is worn or
used) together and using thread to stitch through
all layers. This is the one of the most recognized
methods of seaming and is used to construct most
commercial garments.
The lapped Seam:
This class of seaming has the largest number of
variations. A lapped seam is achieved with two or
more pieces of fabric overlapping each other. LS
commonly, but not always, have one ply of fabric fold
under itself for a finished edge. Lapped seams are
common when working with leather and sewing side
seams on jeans and dress shirts.
The Bound Seam:
The purpose of a bound seam is to finish the raw
edge of a garment. A common usage of this finish
is seen on the neckline of a collarless garment
made of woven fabric (a woman's blouse, a
baby's nightgown, etc.). A bound seam is made
by using one piece of usually bias-cut fabric to
enclose the raw edge of another piece of fabric.
There are many variations of a bound seam.
Technically this is a finishing method, rather
than a seam
The Flat Seam:
A flat seam is constructed by having two pieces
of fabric meet precisely at their edges. A cover
stitch is used to sew the two pieces of fabric
together. This stitch has multiple needles and
creates a stitch perpendicular to the seam line.
This creates a flat seam which is commonly used
on garments that fit closely to the body such as
underwear. The purpose is to create a seam that
will be flat throughout the duration of the
garment life.
To be
Continued……
