PATTERN GRADING
WITH FLAT-PATTERN METHOD
ROBY MUBAROK (14030032)
YUDA ISRAWAN (14030034)
PATTERN GRADING
WITH FLAT-PATTERN METHOD
What is making pattern?
In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are
traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper,
and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be
more robust to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is
sometimes condensed to the one-word Patternmaking but it can also be written pattern
making or pattern cutting.
A patternmaker typically employs one of two methods to create a pattern.
1. The flat-pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from
measurements, using rulers, curves and straight-edges. A pattern maker would also
use various tools such as a notcher, drill and awl to mark the pattern. Usually, flat
patterning begins with the creation of a sloper or block pattern, a simple, fitted
garment made to the wearer's measurements. For women, this will usually be a jewelneck bodice and narrow skirt, and for men an upper sloper and a pants sloper. The
final sloper pattern is usually made of cardboard or paperboard, without seam
allowances or style details (thicker paper or cardboard allows repeated tracing and
pattern development from the original sloper). Once the shape of the sloper has been
refined by making a series of mock-up garments called toiles (UK) or muslins (US),
the final sloper can be used in turn to create patterns for many styles of garments with
varying necklines, sleeves, dart placements, and so on. The flat pattern drafting
method is the most commonly used method in menswear; menswear rarely involves
draping.
2. The draping method involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern by pinning fabric
directly on a form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper
pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself.
Simple Pattern Grading Techniques
Grading a pattern is a way of sizing a pattern up (or down) while maintaining the proportions
of the original pattern. Learning how to grade a pattern is a useful skill to have if you enjoy
working with vintage patterns or have a favorite pattern that is now a size or two too big (or
too small).
Grading patterns can be relatively simple. The "cut and spread" option is one method for
pattern grading. Begin by tracing your original pattern. I traced my pattern on to white
butcher paper. You can also cover the original pattern with transparent paper and trace that
way. Fusible interfacing will also do in a pinch. If you have an uncut pattern to grade, you
can use dressmaker's carbon and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern to paper. Be sure to
transfer all markings, darts and grain lines. Labeling your pattern pieces as you go will help
you keep things straight.
After you have your traced pattern cut out, it's time to do a little (easy!) math. In my example,
my original pattern fits a 32" bust, but I want to make it two sizes larger, to fit a 36" bust.
That's a 4 inch difference. Since the pattern has a front and back (like most patterns), I divide
the difference by 2. In this example, 2" is the grade for the entire front (or back) of the
pattern. If the pattern splits a piece (like the bodice) into halves (left and right), you'll need
divide by 2 again. In this example, that would result in a 1" grade for each piece of the bodice
front. This is the pattern grading scale, or grade.
Next, you'll need to divide the grade by 3. This will give you the measurements for your
spread. It's best not to get hung up on dividing exactly evenly (one of the measurements can
be slightly larger than the others), just as long as the total is equal to the amount of your
grade. For a 1" grade, the numbers might look like 1/4"-1/2"-1/4". Be sure to keep track of
the measurements, as you'll want to duplicate them exactly for any other pieces in the bodice.
Draw three vertical lines on your traced pattern to indicate where you will cut in order to
spread the pattern. Good places to draw these lines are from underarm to waist, shoulder to
waist and neckline to waist.
Once the pattern is cut vertically, spread the four pieces the appropriate amount. I used
transparent tape to keep the pieces of the pattern together.
Next, it's time to retrace the pattern. Be sure to transfer all markings, darts and grain lines
again. Repeat the process, maintaining the same grade, as needed for any other pieces.
If your original pattern is too small, as opposed to too big, you will follow the same process.
Determine the size difference in the same method outlined above. Instead of spreading the
original pattern after it has been cut, overlap the pieces the appropriate amount. If you needed
to size down 2", you would overlap the pattern pieces by 1/2"-1"-1/2". Retrace the pattern
and transfer all markings.
Shifting is another simple method for pattern grading. The first step is to determine how
much you need to grade your pattern. If we take the example of a bodice again, you might
need to grade a 34" bust up to a 36" bust. That's a difference of 2". Again, divide the
difference by 2 since we are only dealing with either the front or the back of a garment at one
time. Divide again by 2 if the bodice is in two pieces. In this example, that equals a 1/2"
grade.
Next, take the original pattern (you don't need to make a duplicate of the original pattern
because we won't be cutting it up) and place it on top of a piece of paper. Trace the bottom
and center edges.
Shift away from your traced line by the amount of your grade (in this example, "). If you
needed to grade down, or make your original pattern smaller, you would shift toward your
traced line by the same amount. Trace the outer edges of the original pattern. Your traced
lines will not match up exactly, of course, so blend together as best as possible. Transfer any
markings, darts or grain lines and repeat for your remaining pattern pieces.
It's important to note that grading a pattern will not accomplish the same results as altering a
pattern. Altering a pattern is the only way to make it conform to your exact measurements,
particularly if your bust and hip measurements fall into two different sizes. Even when
dealing with an even grade (grading a pattern by the same amount all over), you will
probably still have to make some minor fit adjustments, but grading the pattern will get you
close to where you need to be.
References
http://www.craftsy.com/article/., Julia Garza, 2013
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pattern_%28sewing%29
https://id.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pola_%28menjahit%29
