By H. I. Chapelle Here's a small, shallow-drafi sailing craft which combines sea-worthi- ness with economy and, with power, will make moderate speeds. worthy, small sailing boat of very shal~ low draft. The “Southwind” was designed to fill this need at relatively low cost and with little labor. The old round-sided sail- ing dories of New England, and the Sea~ bright Skiffs of New Jersey prove that the flat-bottom may be combined with rounded topsides to make a seaworthy small boat. However, these are usually rather nar- row on the bottom and thus can carry only small area of sail, so to make “Southwind” faster in summer weather her bottom was made wider and approaches the sharpie in proportion. She ean be built with or with- 3out a cuddy, as indicated in the plans. In so small a boat a cuddy must be very cramped and provides overnight accom- modations of pup-tent standards. The double-ender form of hull is not farticularly suited to the use of an out board engine. Yet power can be used if desired by fitting some kind of a metal side-bracket on which a small outboard engine can be hung. The disadvantage of this is that the motor must be unshipped when sailing in a fresh breeze and so the engine ought to be quite light. This in turn limits the power available to less than Lig hp. which would. produce a maximum speed in a calm of about 4% mph. per- haps. To enable more power to be utilized Thave given details for an outboard engine well between frames 16 and 18. This plan, if employed, will allow a heavier and more powerful engine to be used. It is suggested that the bottom of the well be closed by a non-watertight door when under sail to re~ duce the drag of the well. Fig. 1 shows the lines of “Southwind,” with the offsets and a typical section show- ing general construction. In shaping this hull, a very old idea has been utilized to reduce the work in lofting. In ancient times it was usual to shape all of the frames with bul three molds which could be fitted to- gether to form each of the frames; this method was called “whole molding.” In “Southwind” the same principle has been applied so that all the frames and the stem and stern knees are formed by one curve mold, This mold is shown in the lines drawing with its offsets, and is called the “Master Curve Mold” there. The lines and the typical construction section should be carefully studied before the boat is laid down in the loft. First, it will be noted that the boat is built dory- fashion, without a keel. The bottom, then, will be shaped and put together to form the “keel” and then the rest of the hull will be built upon it. The lines show every other frame and so the half-breadth plan will have to be faired in, though the di- agonals shown will not be required in loft- ing. The first step, then, is to draw the profile and half-breadth plans full-size in building paper or plywood, from the off- sets given, and then to draw the perpen- diculars that will represent the frames not given in the offsets, You will have a frame at every foot mark between the perpen- diculars, Next, make the Master Curve Mold as shown on either plywood, heavy cardboard, pattern lumber or other suit- able material. The body plan is now to be made—lift the heights and half-breadths of each frame from the profile and half- 4 breadth plans just completed. When you have a row of spots on the body-plan water lines, sheer and chine, fit the Master Curve Mold to them and sweep in the curve. It will be noticed that the mold will have to be shifted upward or downward from frame to frame. The spots for the stem and stern liners, in the profile, are likewise taken from the offsets and swept in by use of the Master Curve Mold. Probably the offsets will not be accurate enough for the curve to hit every spot but the mold curve should pass through all but one or two, at least. When the thicknesses of the plank- ing of sides and bottom are laid off, the mold will also be used to sweep in the sides represented by the outboard or mold- ing edge of the frames. It can also be used to lay off the inside edge of each frame and so it will not be necessary to lay off all of these frame curves with a batten. ‘The bottom must be laid off and ex- panded for length; the molded lengths of the floor frames ascertained, and the shape of the brackets holding bottom and side frames together obtained. All this wil] re- quire accurate lofting to obtain the neces- bevels. Check the Construction Plan, Fig. 2, for the necessary information for lofting the structural parts of the hull. and the Specifications and Building Instruc- tions for sizes. It should be observed that a short “Chine Log” or batten is shown; this is only desirable if the lowest strake, the “chine strake,” will have to be butted amidships. This will be necessary if wide plank is not available for the sides. If you cannot get the plank in sufficient length, ina width up to 14 in., it will be well to use the chine log or batten as shown and to butt the two lengths of each chine strake on this batten, In most localities wide plank of such length as is required for single length chine strakes is not now available or is very expensive. If there is any doubt about the matter, the chine battens should be utilized as in any case they will strengthen the hull at a place where it will receive much punishment in service. It should be mentioned that the offsets show the height of cither cuddy sides, or coaming if cuddy is not employed, in a double line of ofiscts in the offset tables. In the half-breadth offsets there is a Z. mark between stations 10 and 12—this means the sweep is not continuous as there will be a breaks or offset in the coaming and trunk line; this is noted in the half- breadth plan by offsets there. The top of the coaming, when the cuddy is not em- ployed, is shown by dotted lines on the pro- file and when these are followed the deck box is omitted, The dimensions of the centerbuard and its ease will be found in the details accompanying the construction plan, Fig. 2. The rudder post is perpen- dicular to the base line and, as shown, is 8 in, afore station 20, The dimensions for the rake of the masts will give the locations of the centers of partners and steps, but the actual rake will be established as a re- sult of trials under sail and so the stepping of masis is to be done to allow rake altera~ tion without carpentry. ‘The construction to be followed in “Southwind” is fully shown in Fig. 2. The boat is to be built right-side-up with the bottom sprung, on top of a series of forms. These forms should be laid down in the loft work. They are merely a series of hurdles made of two uprights and a crosspiece and well braced. Their height will be deter- mined so as to properly camber the bottom, fore-and-aft and place the work at a con- venient building height. A form should be located at every even station—those for which offsets are given in the lines and single supports at the bow and stern. The forms should be made of 2-in. x 4-in, com- mon lumber, well braced with cross-mem- bers and struts of 1-in. plank. If possible, there should be some provision for bracing the bottom, when sprung to camber on the forms, from overhead. If this cannot be done the bottom will have to be secured to the forms by nailing it to cleats on the sides of the forms’ crosspieces, clear of the floor timbers and in such case great care is necessary to secure the forms so they cannot lift and leave the base line. When the bottom has been formed and secured by the floor timbers, the whole is set on the forms and sprung to the required fore-and-aft camber. This must be done accurately or there will be much trouble later. Strike the centerline along the bot- tom and then run a centerline chalk-line or a wire above the work, sufficiently high to clear the stem and stern liners when in place. The upper line can be stretched be- tween two uprights set clear of the work, Now the stem and stern liners can be made up. These are made dory-fashion, without a vabbet for the side plank and are formed of knees bolted to the bottom. Once these are in place the centerboard case should be partly made up and fitted. The case can be assembled up to one plank above the logs. The centerboard case logs will have to be cut to fit the camber of the bot- tom and it would be an excellent plan to blue-chalk them to get a very accurate fitting. The blocking for the rudder-post {or catn nog sty goon OFFSETS ere en mains ne sua crn Lp | ee SSUES ectersten levalese asec Besloes Per eansaleS BODY PLAN eforatrra eesti leserees stein |revtesitooa| [at GISTANCE SETWEEN AP AND FP «S 2-0" ALL = pisieselerslereies. so tt Lal ‘ant "o Q°Btce crown is 4° mm got 15pipe and the mast steps should be placed and secured now. Frames 4 and 18 are formed of bulkheads; these should be got- ten out but not assembled; the bottom plank will serve as a floor-timber. There are no floor timbers for frames 2 and 20. ‘The side frames should now be shaped and the brackets made up. It would save much time and work if the builder made some pattem from his loft drawing by which the side frames can be set up ac- curately. If this is done and the alignment checked against the centerline and chalk- line the hull can be kept true in this stage and much fairing can be avoided. I hope you will note that the floor timbers re- quire bevel and are set so that those on stations 3 to 11 have their after faces on the station marks while those on stations 12 to 19 have their forward faces on the station marks. This will make the bevel- side of the frame less than the molding edge and saves much time and error. As each pair of side frames are set up, they should be connected by a suitable cross-piece or spall before being put into place. The spall ought to be of at least 1-in. x 3-in. lumber; it may be placed so that its top is about 5 in, below the sheer-mark on the frames, and the centerline of the hull must be marked on each spall. The brackets are to be fastened only after the side frames are in alignment and the centerlines correct. The bulkheads may now be assembled up to the top plank, which should be omitted for the present, When all the frames are in place and secure, a stiffener plank can he sprung along the top of the spalls to help in steadying the structure. This plank can be made of two or more lengths butt blocked together and should be at least 1 in, x 6 in. The ends should be carefully fitted to notch around the stem and stern liners and seeured there with a temporary fastening, The stiffener will also have to be notched to fit over the after head-ledge of the case. Now the sides can be planked. First go over the bevels of the bottom and if the bevels of the side frames have not been cut in sawing them, cut them now, Some builders will prefer to do this with hand tools rather than attempting to bevel the frames on the saw, when curved. A broad- hatchet for hewing is a very handy tool for cutting bevels by hand. The amount of bevel on each frame can be quickly deter- mined by bending a short batten over three or four frames and marking the apparent, bevel of each at the batten. After roughing out the bevel, the final cuts must be made with a plane. The joining of the bevels of 16 frames and bottom must be as accurate as possible, and fair. To obiain the most desirable finish to a round-sided hull, the planking ought to be “lined-off.” This’ means that the position of the seams, and thus the width of the plank used, ave predetermined. “Lining- off” is described in books on boatbuilding. The easiest way is to place a 54-in. x 244-in. batten along the side frames and tack it to cach. The batten will have to be long enough to reach from stem to stern. Place the batten so that its bottom is roughly where the lowest diagonal is shown on the body plan in the lines and assume this to be the top of the chine strake on the side being worked. Let the batten come fair to each station—it will take a bend so that its bottom will stand at right angles to each frame where it crosses each, This is the “normal” line and is the bend of a straight edged plank. This will show you the width required in the chine strake, to close the side between the batten and the bottom. If the stock on hand requires less, lower the atten a little. Once you are satisfied the stock will allow the strake to be made, run a peneil mark along the bottom of the bat- ten on each frame and then take it down. Get out the chine strakes together and fit them into place. Now space the frames for the number of strakes required, by the width of your available stock, to plank up the side by using a divider or compass. It is a good plan, for the sake of appearance to arbitrarily ‘set the width and taper of the sheer strakes so that a good sheer to the bottom of the strake exists, say slightly more than the sheer of the hull. Then space the distance between this and the chine strake for the desired number of strakes, This general method of lining-off is better than “goring,” which consists of laying off the frames into an equal number of plank widths and then trying to cut the strakes to come to their marks, for this method is not only uneconomical but is impractical in some forms of hull. Lining-off is not dif- ficult and requires only patience and an appreciation of the appearance of nicely placed seams and well-proportioned strakes. The “Southwind” is a relatively easy form to line-off and gives a good chance to learn something about this builder's art. I recommend that the sheer strake be 5 in. deep amidships and be made so that its lower edge parallels the “Paint Line” shown in the Tines, if your stock will permit. When the planking is complete, the clamps can be shaped and placed at the necessary height along the inside of the frames. It is usually easiest to make theseeach in two lengths, with a butt-block somewhere amidships. The butting can be done after each half is secured in place ‘The inside of the frames, where the clamps bear, will have to be beveled of course, and most builders will do this with hand tools in any case. The ends of the clamps should be fastened to cleats, one on the inside face of the stem and stern liners. This done, you can dress off the ends of the side planking at bow and stern and spring the cutwater moldings into place. These are merely steam-bent oak strips through-fastened as bent. and can be readily understood from the drawings. The bottom of the cutwaters cannot be trimmed until the shoe is placed and this is best done when the hull is ready to be shified from the forms or stocks. ‘The deck beams are next made up and placed. These will be fastened by galva- nized wire nails to the clamps. Since the carlins are in short lengths, T think it is best that they be sawed to the half- breadth curves and for sheer out of thick stock as listed. The stiffener plank can be cut out of the boat but I would be in no hurry to remove the spalls, for they hold the sides in shape and can be cut away later, Once the deck beams are in place, the deck blocking can be placed. Now the bulkheads can be completed and the rud- der-post pipe fitted. The thwart for the mainmast and. the risers for this and the sternsheets can be fitted: if there is to be an outboard motor well this, too, should be completed before any decking is laid. When the boat is complete and ready for sailing trials she will need some ballast Gravel or sand, in canvas bags 20 in. x 12 in, are preferred—the bags can be fitted, between the floor timbers under the sole if not completely filled and may be held in place by “stops” tacked between the floor frames. Ten bags should be sufficient and fine sand is the best ballast. The exact po- sition of the ballast will depend upon the gear put aboard—an outboard in a well aft will necessitate less ballast and the weight must be placed farther forward than when no engine is used. On the other hand, the use of a cuddy and its attendant gear will require the ballast to be placed farther aft than when the open cockpit is used With the jib-and-mainsail rig do not place the deck lead-blocks for the jib sheets per manently until aitér the sail has stretched into its final shape. One way to fit the lead blocks so that they can be easily shifted is to place an oak batten on deck; this should be 1 in. wide and about % in. high—say INBOARD PROFILE | = centereoare pon ie if 7 we titan ae (a i ih 7 cob Meron (Pega (oii 1 tyrnuen seyepese Lame 726 in, long, There should be a batten for both sides of course and they should be made with the top about ¥6 in, narrower than the base. The battens should have their bottoms notched out, scupper- fashion. These notches should be + in. in depth and about 34 in. fore-and-aft—the notches spaced about 3 in. on centers. The upper corners of the battens should be well rounded. These are fastened to the deck with screws and at least two % bolts through batten, deck and dec! The lead blocks may be lashed to these battens with small line or with a rawhide thong. “Southwind,” like any sailing boat, will require “tuning up” and after the sails are stretched it may be necessary to change the rake of the masts or to shift the ballast, to trim the boat a little by the bow or stern, so that she steers easily. Her balance will be affected also by the depth to which the centerboard is lowered. Only in rough water and strong winds would you give the boat all of the board which, in any case, should not be lowered so much as to allow the arm at the after end to leave the case entirely, Running before the wind you will usually house the board or, in a strong breeze and a sea, you may show just a little of it to steady the boat. May you have good sailing! © SPECIFICATIONS AND BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS Lottwork—The hull Is to be accurately lofted as given in the Lines and offset tables: Including coam~ Ings. cuddy sides, chosi rails, rudder, centerboard and ease. Patterns for frames, stem and stera Tners deck beams, camber of bottom, coamings, ete. shall be made from the loft-work. Stocks—The hull is to be built on her assembled doitom right side up. The stocks shall be made of two tiprights and a crosspiece, all "xd" common Tamn= ber, bolted together with 4" diameter iron carriage otis, 8” tong. ‘There Shall be one of these structures: al egeh even-numbered station—making the forms two feet apart. ‘The dorms shall be placed so. that those at Stations 2 to 10 have thelr after faces (or erossplece) on the station lines or marke: Those from 12°to 20 shall have the forward faces of the cross pieces on the station marks—to avoid the necessity ff beveling. Each se! of forms shall be secured to the oor and braced a necessary ‘with Ist" common Rimber fo give a rigid and strong structure, without side or end movements. Uprights are to be phiced clear of the boat of sufficient height to allow e chal Tine oF wire to be stretched above he hull on the stocke as 2 centerline. ‘The heights of each set of Stocks will be celermined from the Toftework fo Bring the ull, when mounted cn them, to suitable Working height. Single legs or braces should. be pinced under stem and stern to support the bottom. Bottom Plank—The potions is to be made of yellow. or white pine, or white ceday’ the strakes t@ Be Single Jenaths ad ot 1x8" plank, to nish 3 thiek. ‘The botiam will be assembled nd. held Hether by the floor frames, whieh will be placed on the stations shown (one on Stations 2 land 20°) those with their after faces on the station marks are Frames numbered 3° lo 11” inclusive and those with thelr forward faces on the station marks are the us frames numbered 12 to 19 inelusive. The oor frames wil be beveled to stand plumb when the bet fom is sprung over the stocks, ‘The shape of the Datiom will be expanded from the mold-loft work and the bevels will be taken there. The bation plank Wil be tightly wedged together before being fas fened jo the Noor ftames—or the bottom imay be fenpporarily cleated togettier elear of the floor frames desived. The bottom ‘will be marked with a center line and the centerboard slot will be cut ax required Inthe Lines. When the bottom is assembled It Wil be mounted on the stocks, ailgned, and sprung to the Tore-and-aft caraber. Te will he held in us postilen by either temporary fastenings to the stocks or by Overhend bruce as the situation permits. In as Scmiing ihe bottom, the seams should be payed with wehite Tend or marine ghie ard cautked with Stem and Stem Liners —The stem and stern Hners shall be cut from sound 2” oak plank or knees, te Side 212" when drossed and to mold 2s shown in the plans. Tho Tiners are to have no sabbets snd are to be Reveled on the sides 10 take the side-plank which will come flush with the forward face of each Timer ‘The Smount of Hevet Will be ascertained in the lott swore The liners ill be bolted to the eenter-plank Of the bottom wilh to 14" diameter galvanized Iron Carriage bolts with the heads countersink in the outside of the bottom plank. Frames—The floor and side frames shall be cut from sound onk plank I" thick, to dress not, less than ser" thieke, The. lar. frames wit mold. 2” and be beveled. ‘The side frames will mold 1%" at head and 1" square (o Jace at chines, The side frames Shall be\joined to the Hoor frame by brackets of *y" marine plywood. one on each side of every Dutt. The brackets are to be formed 2s shown in the drawings and are to be fastened with four galvanized iron Stove bots with round hends—9/16" diameter and Te" tong—or by voundhead serews 1 long—No. 6 wire. If the latior ave Used each bracket will have Tour’ fastenings. Flac: frames. fastened to bottom plank from top with a” boat nails spaced about 2” spare, ov by #" No. 10 wire seraws, Chine Hattens—The chine battens or logs will be cut from 1” gak or yellow pine plank and wilt dress to ahout Tea" The chine batlen will Pun from Frame?” to frame 1: it will be fastened to the end of each floor frame by 2.2" No. 10 wire galvanized fon serew. ‘The chine Datten sill be nailed to. the bottom planks by: £” galvanized iron wiee nails driven from Me top of the batten after boring for same. ‘There will be one nail every six inehes along the bat- tem, keeping clear of the frames. Spalls—To be made of common lumber 1” thick and not Jess than 3” widesthest are to be fastened fevoss every palr of Side frames some 5” below the Sheer mari of the rames. The spgiis are to be fas- {ened fo the sida frames with 12" common round= head iron serews—No. 5 wire Clamp—The sheer clamps are to be of 1" yellow pine or fir plani—to dress %4” Uhleke end from 2)" Beep amidships to 2+)" at bow and stern. ‘The clamps nay be butted amidships Pactenings at the butis and Yoihe framechends wilt be with L'a" galvanized iron Fourdhesd serews—No. 5 wire. ‘The clamp will be Secured to eneh frame with two fastenings and there shall be vight fastenings In the buit-block if used. Centerboard Case Logs—These shall be of white or yellow pine, or cedar, and cut from 2” plank. They. Shall stand 8° above the bottom plank at frame 11" ‘and shail stand 3” sbove the bottom plane at the fore~ Ghds. ‘The bottam ef the ings shall be dresced to Nt the camber of the botlom. Phe logs shall be laid on Honnel Sitios siturated with thick paint or a mnarine glue ind shall be bolted to the boltom plank with Ealvanized iron carrigge bolte—14" diameter and 314" fo Siz” longespaced 6" apart. The heads shall be Souniersunle into te bottom plank so as fo stand fiush with the outboard face. The eutdoard comers Of the lops of the logs shall be beveled to drain and {he bots shall standin the bevels wth wasters under the nuts. Cenierboard Case Head Ledges—These shall be cut of 2 oak of yellow pine plank, to be dressed {0 Tiss or the shapes Indi¢ated In the plans. Theheels shall halve throws the bottom plank, secured by a galvanized wire nail 4" Jong delven fore-and-att through: the heels into the bottom plank. The logs Shall be crosiebolted through the headers with two galvanized iron carriage bolts, 9/16" diameter and G tong. Flannel selurated with thick paint or marine lue shall be used: between the logs, and the head Fedues and up ‘the sides of the case, ‘The top of the alter head ledge shall be fitted with checks of oak plane to take @ 2” diameter galvanized jron sheave For the lanyard; the cheeks to be through-bolted with {hige 3/18" diameter roundhend galvanized. stove ts Rudder-Post Pipe Block—To be cut from 2" oak or yellow pine and Iastened to the bottom plank with F boat mails after being lal@ over fmnnel saturated with thick paint or marine glue ‘The block fs to be of sullicient length fo ft tightly between frame 19” and the hieel of the stern liner and is to be 6” wide, Cockpit Sole—To be of 2"x3" lumber fastened with 14" No. 4 wire roundhead brass serews. Mast-steps—The step for the jib-and-mainsail masi-and for the mainmast of the sharpie Hg, Is eut fromm 2” oake planke and is bolted to the botiam plank- Ing with four 3/16" diameter galvanized iron carriage bolts, 394" lonis with the heads countersunk fush into the outboard side of the bottom plank. The steps Shall be nol less than §” wide and shall be carefull Atted, to locke at the after head ledge in the sharp! mainmast or to fil snugly between the foor frames in the iib-and-mainsail rig, The step for the foremast Of the sharpie 2g shall bein the sim finer knew and Shall be formed by 2 notch in the mee closed on the Sides with oak check-pieces }." thick and through= Bolted wish 4/16" diantcter rounahend Stove bolts of galvanized Iron, Mast-thwart—The thwart to support the mainmast in the sharpie rig is required as a strength member and shall be Installed when the jib-and-mainsall cig is'used. The thwart is cut from Tig" oak or yellow pine plank. to dress 144°X9"”. The thwart shall be sup- ported on risers 28" long fastened to the side frames ‘with 2""No. 10 wire galvanized iron serews: the risers {9 be of oak or yellow pine 14" thiek and 2'4" deep. The tinwarts will be screw-tastened to ihe risers with the same Size fastenings and shall be notched around frame 13, (0 lack. The thivart shall also noteh around the centerboard case, drive-fit. The slot for the main~ busstis ta be loose ft for te mast, whieh Is square Ab this place, and the mast will be focked into post Hon by 2 eleat on the after side of the thwart, of oak, 14'x2", 10” Jong and by an oak mast plate 1's"%10"x- 10°, “bottea “with 3/16" roumdhead ‘slave bolts or squarehead bol Side Plank—To be of cedar, white pine, yellow pine or fir: fo finish'%," thick. There will be not Tess than eight strakes on a side. The chine strakes sail tbe fastened to both the side frames and to the bot fom plank at chine—doryefashion. All fastenings to be 114" boat nails with heads well set into the plank Ing and puted. The sheer slrake shall be about 5” deep ‘amidshios’ and tapered in depth. for-and-att Seams payed and eauliced, Deck Beams—The deck beams shall be eut fr falvanized Iron, 314" long. 1 oak plank, to dress ¥y"x104" on a crown of 4” in i t racine, CONSTRUCTION SECTION. CURVE MOLD see [Se I 6'-10%". "The beams shall be fastened to the clamps Winn gilvanized iron wie nails, 3” long of With Serews, No. 6 wire Carlins—'Po be sawed from yellow pine or Me 2"x0" to.chape—to dress to 1'4"31%4". Short beams to halve ino the carlin ond to be fastened with 2" galvanized Deck Blocking—To be cut from white or yellow pine. or cedar planit: 114" thick—to dress to T's" of the sizes Indicated In the plans, To be fastened fo beams with 3” galvanized wire nails, or to clamps. where required, Bulkheads—The bulkheads at frames 4° and 18" are to be made of 1” white or yellow pine, cedar or fir plank, to dress to Te"x8" and to be cleated togetner by means of yellow pine or oak eleats, 2473" as indi gated. Fastelings 114" boat nails. Tf cuddy 1s used ES butthead to. be formed as shown in plans of ay directed by owner and is to be made of 2%4°xd" plank. Decking—To be made from 1" plank dressed to et", or "Tig" it Tad in strips—cedar, white pine, ffr‘or yellow pine. The deck may, as an alter hate, be made of %4" marine plywood, canvas eov~ ered. Fastenings to be 114" boat or wire nails?" No. serews if plywood is used. Centerboard Case Sides—To be made from, 1” ccatige, white or yellow tine plank, to dress to "xt and fastened with 11g" boatnaits with heads well set Seams to be fayed with marine glue and cauliced With cotton” Cap to be niade of 144° plank, cedar or sellow pine, fo dress to Tig" Centerboard—To be made of 114" oak: or yellow pine plank, dressed to 1iy"x?". To be drift ‘baited With ©" diameter galvanized tron rod. and ballasted h lead. Drifts to be 8" on centers, Pivat pin to be made of ont or locust 1" in diameter and to have ie thick galvanized iron washers or plates between the Sides of the centerboard and those of the case, The “wachers'or pints fo be fastened to the board ith Three or four screws. Rudder, Post and Pipe—The rudder post pipe is to be of 1'y" 1D. galvanized iron pipe, threaded at the Tower end for 3!" and serewed into the bottom bioek and plants, through the shoe. The pipe ts to be set herein white toad. The top Is to be threaded to take A'suiteble pipe Mange which is to be fastened toa DETAIL OF “BAFFS toes wuene = weeck foundation block 1” thick and to be secured with 2° screws. ihe rudder post is to be made of 1" diameter rod, squared at top for 2” and with a welded clevis and. galvanized to take ihe rudder blade os Shown in the plans. There are to be three 3/16" di- ameter holes in the rod above the deck as shown for Acjusting rudder sepih and‘ suiebie iron Din, Se- Cured wiih a short chain or rawhide lanyard. will be tied to the holes to allow this adjustment of the rudder. A suitable bolt with mut will be placed an the uppermost hole aga stop fo prevent loss of the rudder, once it is Shipped: Rudder-blade—The mdder-blade shall be made of rosie plank, to drecs 7y°8", as shown in the Lines. It will be fastened to the elevis of the rudder-stock ‘by means of six 44" diameter rivets or red. The blade ust be of well seasoned stock to avoid warping—it H'ls deemed necessary to use stock not thoroughly, Seasoned yellow pine may be used with some 14" Ginmeter Fod driven as edge-bolting through the ‘blade vertically. Skeg_To be made from 114” oak or yellow pine and bolted with $16" diameter carriage belts or Gritted with," diameter galvanized Iron rod. Shee is to be of 1” oak or yellow pine plank dressed to 4i"xS" and tapered at bow and stern as indicated ih Lines, ‘The shoe Is to be fastened tothe boitom plank with 124” boat nails. Cutwaters—The eutwater strips are to be of steam- bent oale finished 10 24°49" and bent on the fat. ‘These will cover the hood ends of the side planking and be dreSed off to a rounded finish when a5 Indicates i the plans, Fastenings will be ameter galvanized ifon siove bolts or 4° No. 10 wire Galvanized cerews, The heels shall be protected by 10” of galvanized iron strap, J4"x18", screw-fastened to cutwater strip and outside of shoe with %" No. & Coamings—To be made of 1" plank, white or, yel~ low pine, cedar, fir or mahogany—to dress to 24°x- 10" (or Y°x6" If open cockpit is used without cuddy). To be fastened with s” galvanized wire nails from below the earlins and with 1!" roundhend brass Screws elsewhere—No, 4'Wwire. The cap Is to be of ‘Yerxl” mahogany. oak or yellow pine, fastened with Ie" hathead brats serews, No. 4 wire or by finishing nails. Cuddy sides to be pieced up of same material ‘35 coaming? with comer @eats—ine side ports to be Ringed to swing Inboard or to be fixed, as owner directs Cabin Root—The cabin rool, if required to lift, shall be supported by 2 frame around the top of the cuddy' sides-—to be sawed from 2" white or yellow Dine plank—and to fnish Le"s2" or thereabouls— Sith 'a rabbet at the bearing of the fraine In the Wrunk-sides. The root beams shall halve into the frame and shall be sawed from 1° ‘oak plank to fnish Zyrxiig" and crowned as required by the Plans, ‘The cabin root to be of $k” cedar, white oF yellow pine, or 4” 1narine plywood, canvas covere If the root is to It the corners of the frame it should be blocked ‘with Pieces of 1” cedar or bine. If the Fook is to be fixed the frame hay be omitied and the roof beams may rest on a balten, %'x14" run round the sides of the cuddy trunk. The grab rail Is made of 1” oak or Pine and fastened with screws to the cabin roof beams. Piano hinge may be used it the eabin root is to lidt, and wooden support braces are Fequived at the afler end. Chock Rails—To be fitted at bow and stern as shown In Lines—to be made of 1" oak or yellow pine as Shown and screw-fastened with 4” to 3" gal- Yanized iron serews, No. 10 wire or with 4” wire hails galvanized. ‘The hawse is to be bored through the fore ehock rail as shown. 114" dlameler. and backed with a 3p" thick oak plate serew-fastened inside the bow chock rails. Fittings—The tiller to be of the wishbone type as shown and fitted with two t9" thick galvanized iron plates, riveted to the tiller parts, to. take the head of the rudder-post, ‘The ‘tiller may be fitted with Soke-lines as well to allow stoéring from forward. ‘The mainsheel horse is to he Made of wrought iron and galvanized as shown in the detail. Mast Crotches No be sade of oak or yellow pine as owner directs. 120 Bitt-pleces to be fitted to masts in sharpie rig as Shown in plans—a wooden or metal anchor—line cleat to be fitted on the fore-deck with the tib-and= ‘mainsail rig. Oarlock blocks to be fitted on outside of coamiags with salvanized tron locks with chain Tanyards and tegzles. Outboard Engine Mounts—Well may be placed be- tween frames 16" and 18" as shown in the plans; this will require an exhaust made by installing hose and. Rose fillings to vent the well (hrough the side of the hull above the waterline. The well should be but of 114" plank and beddea on flannel saturated in thick paint or marine glue. Tt is recommended that the well be flted with 2 door, rabbeted to ft ‘over battens on the inside of the well and to come Aush, with the’ bottom of the hhull, to reduce the resistance of the well when sailing. if a side bracket ig preferred it may be built as shown in the sketch of ty’s1" iron strap and should be filied between frames 18 and 19 35 mdicated. Spare—The masts and booms and, other spars are to be of spruce, fr or white pine and are to be mace to the dimensions shown in the selected sail plan. Masis are square from tenon to 2 little above the pariners. Masts will be secured with mast plates of ak secured to deek or thwart so that mast ralce may be changed. Partner holes to be loner than neces~ sary to allow this. Plates to be bolted. If the jib-and= ‘mainsail rig is used the mast may be clamped to the deck beam at the fore-end of the cuddy or cockpit, of may be fixed in the cabin roof-top if it does not Tie"the clamps to 2 deck beam should be made of Ay"eLIe" “Kalvanized iron strap with Ye" U-polts tiroush the deck beam as staples; ‘the clainp wedsed in these by mactal or oak pins. Copper rivets tobe used in gaf-battens. Sails—The sails to be made to the dimensions shown which are “stretched dimensions’—~and are {fo be commercial grade. The sails in the sharpie Tie fo be fitted with iron’ mast-hoops below the gait Datiens and with shor! lacing lines and toggles above or the whole of the luff may be laced. The mainsail in the jib-andemainsail vig is to be laced to mas boom and gunter-pole. ‘The fib to be hanked to th slay with either lacing and toggles or snap Nooks. In the latter rig the forestay 14 not to be spliced at ihe ends but Seized. The stay shall be of valvanized flexible wire rope of the size shown, Rigging—All running rigging shall be of %” di ameter manila Blocks—Biocks as specified in the sail plans to be cgramercial grade with roller bushings, where pes Paint—The hull and deck to have one prime coat and two finish coats—the underboay to have two, Goats of entifouling. The interior, above the cabin sole to be painted with three coats—one being prim ing—but the bilges are not to be painted. and. shall be given, instead, two coats of boiled Lingeed oil or a 50-80 mixture of kerosene and ereosoie. Spars are t0 be vamished-two coats of spar varnish. BILL OF MATERIALS Stocks 100 lineal feet of 2°xs", random lengths, common grade, pine, ft, spruce'or hemlock: 100, neal feet of "xd", random length, material as above; 18 carriage bolts, 34° dia. §” long, with Washers! 3 Ibs. tenpenny halls Bottom—Three planks 114"x8", 20 feet long: Two Nankes 11°x8", 13 feet long: Two planks 138". 18 feet long: ‘Two planks 1%4"x8", 12 feet long; Yellow or white pine Or white cedar. Ail dressed to'144” thick Stom and Stern Liners—One 3*x10", 8 feet long, white oak. Dress to 215". Frames—90 lineal, feet of 1"x6" oak, random lengths. Dress toe"; 45, heal feet of 1x5" oak, random lengths. Dress to 7a". Brackets and other plywood—Marine grade, 1°, one sheet #6)Chine Battens—One plank of 1"%x6" oak or yellow pine, 8-0" long to Tip and finish into two pleces TOs Spalls—10 lineal feet of 1"x4” common lumber— random lenginsr 3 doz. zoundhesd Screws, 12" long, Clamps—Two 22'-0" planks or four 12-0" planks, wheat tg dress to 44°x4"" Yellow pine or fi, Centerboard Case Loge—Two 2"x6", 8'-0" long pleces, white or yellow pine or cedar. Case Head Ledges—One 2"x:", 6'-0" long, plece of ‘oak or yellow pine—to dress to 15y"%4", Blocking—One plece of 2°x6", 4'-0" long—oak or yellow pine, One piece of 2°x8", V0" long—oak or Yellow Sine; One piece of 14,"512", 6-0" long—white or yellow pine or cedar. Cockpit Sole—300 lineal feet of 44°x3" yellow pine, white pine or Ar. Mast, Thwart—One piece 114"%10" oak or yellow pine, 6'-0" long, to Gress to 114°x9" full, Risera to be fut from one plece of 1'4'x6", 5'-0" long—oake or yellow pine. Side Plank—Fultch cedar, white or yellow pine, or fir, 1% to dress to 34" in 24 ft. lengths. 35 planks. Deck Beams—T0 lineal feet of 1°x6" oak—dressed to 78" thick. Carlins—Four pieces of 2x6", pine or fir. Buliheads—Two plank, 1°x8", 14'-0" long —white or yellow pine, cedar or fir—to dress to 74") one plege 18", 10°-0" long, oak or yellow pine, dressed to %” for cleats, 0" long, yellow Decking—i"x4" cedar, white or yellow pine, fr, random lengths, 200 lndal feet, Dros to 24° thie ist Altemnateixig", random lengths, 700 lineal seit Dre oR ne ciywood 5 panel ilemate—v4" marine, plywood—S panels a0Phe'-0". 12 yards canvas 36° Wide. ® Case Sides—Three plank 1x6", 12 white or yellow pine dressed to 74” Cap—Ohe piece 114"46", 6-0" long cedar or yellow pine. Dress to 139” thick. Centerboard—Two plank 134"x8", 8'-0" long, oak br yellow pine. Dress to 244" thick -0" long, cedar, Rudder Blade—One piece, 1°x! 6'-0" long, oak or yellow pine. Dress to Jy" thick. Skeg—One piece 114"x8”, 6'-0" long, oak: Shoe—Two pleces, 1'x6", 12'-0" long, dress to 34" thick. Osk or yellow pine. Cutwater Strips—One piece 1”x2", 10'-0" Ione. ress to 94". Oak for steana-bending. Coamings—Five pieces 1”x10", 8'-0" long for cuddy construction. Finish $2"; one plece 1"x8", 12"-0" Jong. Yor cuddy construction. Finish '4"; one piece 1°x8" G0" long for cuddy construction. Finish %4" two Bieces 4y/x1", 12'-0" long, for cuddy consituetion. Finish 36"; of five pieces 1°x0", 8-0" long for open cockpit. Finish 94"; five pieces 34"1", 87-0" long for open cockpit. Finish 34". All mahogany, cedar, white oF yellow pine or Ar. fRbin Rook One 24" white or yellow ping, 12" jong; gne 1i"x8" waite or yellow pine, 6-0" Tong, Sanne Zor itt roof. ee cs Beeme—Two 1'%6", 107-0" long, oak. Dress to 7p Roof 100 lineal. feet of Se°s" cedar or wh ing oF two panels of 14” marine plywood, &” “0°. E yards canvas 36 wise. Chock Ralls—Oak or yellow pine. Two plank, axa", 12-9" long. Miscellaneous—Oak. One plece 1°x2", 12'-0" long. to bend, White or yellow pine, sternsheets. Two Plank 34°x8", 6'-0" long. Locust, 1°x1", 20" long. Oaie br yellow pine, 114"x4" 19"-0" long. Oak, 2°x2", 6-0" Tong: Fastenings — Galv., iron screws — Roundhead —1 gross 1”, No. 6 wire; 1g gross 1)” No. 5 wire. Flatheads—4 gross 2°, No. 10 wire; 1 doz, 2%, No. 6 wire: te grose's", No! 8 wire; 2 gross 94", No. 5 wire; 3 doz. 3°, No. 10 wire; 4 doz. 4”, No. 10 wire. Brass Screws, roundhead—2 gross 34”, No. 4 wires 2 doz. 139", No. 4 wire, Carriage Bolts—14" dia—1, 3° lony 8, @ long: 6, 442" Iong; 10, 5° long: Stove Bolts, Roundhend—s0, 3/16” dia., 14" long: 3,848; digs Sie" tongs 4 GA dia, 4 Tong, 4, SA a, 344" lone. 4, 934" long: Sth” long: Flathead—12, 16" dia., 4" long. Galv, Rod, 14" dia., 24 feet. Wrought Tron Rivets, 44" diay, 2” long, 4% doz. Galv. Wire Nalls—2 Ib. 4°; 2b. 144%: 3 1b. Boat Nails, Galv—t Tb. 134"; 8 1b. 114" Paint—2 quarts topside: 1% gal. deck and cudd; and Interion 4 quaris antifouting, 2 quarts varnish. 2 quarts creosote: 2 quarts kerosene, Be yds. fiannel; 1 1b. cauliing cotton. ais and hardware fo be taken from plans to sult owner's requirements, see plans. SAIL PLANS Pfu ae ‘ Z Bi gs J vomeumas Fees. Praesens ha aoe, Asana | | LARGE-SCALE PLANS will greatly simplify construction. Sond $2.50 | to MECHANIX ILLUSTRATED Plans Service, Fawcett Building, Greenwich, Conn, Please specify Plan No. B-217.