TADIPATRI ENGINEERING COLLEGE::TADIPATRI

VEERAPURAM, TADIPATRI-515411
(Approved by AICTE, New Delhi & Affiliated to JNTUA, Anantapuramu)

DEPARTMENT OF MECHANICAL ENGINEERING

Workshop Lab Manual Engineering

LAB INCHARGE:__________________________
TADIPATRI ENGINEERING COLLEGE::TADPATRI
VEERAPURAM, TADIPATRI-515411
(Approved by AICTE, New Delhi & Affiliated to JNTUA, Anantapuramu)

DEPARTMENT OF MECHANICAL ENGINEERING

Engineering Workshop Lab Manual

Name:

Reg. No:

Branch :

Year/Semester:
 ENGINEERING WORKSHOP (23A03201)
(Common to all branches)

Course Objective:

To familiarize students with wood working, sheet metal operations, fitting and electrical
house wiring skills
Course Outcomes:

CO1: Identify workshop tools and their operational capabilities.

CO2: Practice on manufacturing of components using workshop trades including fitting,
carpentry, foundry and welding.
CO3: Apply fitting operations in various applications.
CO4: Apply basic electrical engineering knowledge for House Wiring Practice

1.Demonstration: Safety practices and precautions to be observed in workshop.

2. Wood Working: Familiarity with different types of woods and tools used in wood
working and make following joints.
a) Half – Lap joint b) Mortise and Ten on joint c) Cross lap joint

3. Sheet Metal Working: Familiarity with different types of tools used in sheet metal
working, Developments of following sheet metal job from GI sheets.
a) Tapered tray b) Square Tray c) Conical funnel d) Elbow pipe

4. Fitting: Familiarity with different types of tools used in fitting and do the following
fitting exercises.
a) V-fit b) Square fit c) Bicycle tire puncture and change of two-wheeler tyre

5. Electrical Wiring: Familiarity with different types of basic electrical circuits and
make the following connections.
a) Parallel and series b) Two-way switch c) Tube light

6. Foundry Trade: Demonstration and practice on Moulding tools and processes,

Preparation of Green Sand Moulds for given Patterns.
a) pattern design and making b) sand mould making and casting

7. Welding Shop: Demonstration and practice on Arc Welding and Gas welding.
a) Lap joint b) Butt joint.

8. Plumbing: Demonstration and practice of Plumbing tools, Preparation of Pipe joints

with coupling for same diameter and with reducer for different diameters.
 LIST OF EXPERIMENTS

WOOD WORKING
1. Half – Lap joint
2. Mortise and Tenon joint
3. Cross Lap Joint

SHEET METAL WORKING

1. Tapered tray
2. Square tray
3. Conical funnel
4. Elbow pipe

FITTING
1. V-fit
2. Square fit
3. Bicycle tire puncture and change of two wheeler tyre

ELECTRICAL WIRING
1. Parallel and series
2. Two way switch
3. Tube light

FOUNDRY
1. pattern design and making
2. sand mould making and casting

WELDING
1.Lap joint
2.Butt joint.

PLUMBING
Preparation of Pipe joints with coupling for same diameter and with reducer for different diameters.

1. Pipe Threading
2. Pipe Line to Wash Basin
 INDEX

SIGNATURE
S.NO NAME OF THE EXPERIMENT DATE PAGE NO
OF THE
FACULTY
 WOOD WORKING
INTRODUCTION:
Wood work or carpentry deals with making joints for a variety of applications like door
frames, cabinet making furniture, packing etc.,

Timber:
Timber is a name obtained from well grown plants or trees. The timber must cut in such a
way that the grains run parallel to the length. The common defects in timber are knots,
wet rot, dry rot etc.,
Market sizes of timber:-
Timber is sold in market in various standard shapes and sizes. They are:-
Log:-
The trunk of a tree, which is free from branches.
Balk:-
The log sawn to have roughly square cross section.
Post:-
A timber piece, round or square in cross section with more than 275 mm in width, 50 to
150 mm in thickness and 2.5 to 6.5 mts length.
Board:-
A sawn timber piece, below 175 mm in width and 30 mm to 50 mm in thickness.
Reapers:-
Sawn timber pieces of assorted and nonstandard sizes, which don’t conform to the above
shapes.

WORK HOLDING TOOLS:

Carpentry vice:-
It is a work holding device. When handle vice is turned in a clockwise direction, the
sliding jar forces the work against the fixed sawn. The greater the force applied to the
handle, the tighter to the work held.
Bar clamp:-
It is a rectangular (or) square block with V-groove on one or both sides opposite to each
other. It holds cylindrical work pieces.
C-Clamp:-
This is used to hold work against an angle plate or V-block.

MARKING AND MEASURING TOOLS:

Try square:-
It is used for marking and testing the squareness of planed surfaces. It consists of a steel
blade, fitted in a cast iron stock. It is also used for flatness. The size of a try square
used for varies from 150 mm to 300 mm, according to the length of the blade. It is less
accurate when compared to the try square used in fitting shop.
Marking gauge:-
It is a tool used to mark lines parallel to the edges of wooden pieces. It consists of a
square wooden stem with a riding wooden stock on it. A marking pin, made of steel is
fitted on the stem. A mortise gauge consists of two pins. In these it is possible to adjust the
distance between the pins, to draw two parallel lines on the stock.
Fig : 1 steel rule fig: 2 marking Gauge

Fig: 3 steel tape fig: 4 Try square

Fig: 5 corpenter vice Fig: 6 Bar clamp

Fig: 7 metal jack plane Fig: 8 compass and divider

 Compass and dividers:-
This is used for marking circles, arcs, laying out perpendicular lines on the planed
surfaceof the wood.

CUTTING TOOLS:
Hack saw:-
It is used to cross cut the grains of the stock. The teeth are so set that the saw kerfs
will bewider than the blade thickness. Hard blades are used to cut hard metals.
Flexible bladesare having the teeth of hardened and rest of the blade is soft and
flexible.
Chisels:-
These are used for removing surplus wood. Chisels are annealed, hardened and
temperedto produce a tough shank and a hard cutting edge.
Rip saw:-
It is used for cutting the stock along the grains. The cutting edge of this saw makes a
sleeperangle about 60o whereas that saw makes an angle of 45o with the surface of the
stock.
Tenon saw:-
It is used for cutting tenons and in fine cabinet works. The blade of this saw is very
thinand so it is used stiffed with back strip. Hence, this is sometimes called back
saw. The teeth shapes similar to cross cut saw.

DRILLING AND BORING TOOLS:

Auger bit:-
It is the most common tool used for boring holes with hard pressure.
Gimlet:-
This is a hand tool used for boring holes with hand pressure.
Hand drill:-
Carpenters brace is used to make relatively large size holes, whereas hand drill is used for
drilling small holes. A straight shank drill is used with these tools. It is small light in
weight and may be conveniently used than the brace. The drill is clamped in the chuck.

MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS:
Ball peen hammer:-
It has a flat face, which is used for general work and a ball end is used for riveting.
Mallet:-
It is used to drive the chisel, when considerable force is to be applied, steel hammer
should not be used for these purpose, as it may damage the chisel handle. Further, for
better to apply a series of light taps with the mallet rather than a heavy single blow.
Claw hammer:-
It is a striking flat at one end and the claw at the others. The face issued to drive
nails into wood and for other striking purpose and the claw for extracting nails out of
wood.
Pinches:-
It is made of steel with a hinged and is used for pulling out small nails from wood.
Wood rasp file:-
It is a finishing tool used to make the wood smooth, remove sharp edge finishing
fillets and other interior surfaces. Sharp cutting teeth are provided on its surface for
the purpose. This file is exclusively used in wood work.
Fig: 9 cross cut saw Fig: 10 Tenon saw Fig: 11 compass saw

Fig: 12 Chisels Fig: 13 Carpenter’s brace Fig: 14 Auger bit

Fig: 15 Gimlet Fig: 16 wood rasp file Fig: 17 Mallet

Fig: 18 Hand drill Fig: 19 Trammel Fig: 20 Claw hammer

 HALF-LAP JOINT

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

Aim: - To make a Half- lap joint.

Tools required: -

a. Carpenter’s vice

b. Steel Rule

c. Try square

d. Jack plane

e. Scriber

f. Cross cut saw

g. Marking gauge

h. Firmer chisel

i. Mallet

j. Wood rasp file and smooth file

Material required: - Wooden pieces of size 50 x 35 x 250 mm–2 Nos.

Sequence of operations: -

1. Measuring and Marking

2. Planning

3. Check for squareness

4. Removal of extra material

5. Sawing

6. Chiseling

7. Finishing
SKETCH:
Procedure: -
1. The given reaper is checked for dimensions.
2. They are planed with jack plane and checked for straightness.
3. The two surfaces are checked for squareness with a try square.
4. Marking gauge is set and lines are marked at 30 and 45 mm to mark the thickness and
width of the model respectively.
5. The excess material is first chiseled with firmer and then planned to correct size.
6. The mating dimensions of the parts X and Y are then marked using steel rule and marking
gauge.
7. Using the crosscut saw, the portions to be removed are cut in both the pieces, followed by
chiseling.
8. The ends of both the parts are chiseled to the exact lengths.
9. The fine finishing is given to the parts, if required so that, proper fitting is obtained.
10. The parts are fitted to obtain a slightly tight joint.

Safety precautions: -
1.Loose cloths are to be avoided.
2.Tools to be placed at their proper placed.
3.Hands should not be placed in front of sharp edged tools.
4.Use only sharp tools.
5.Care should be taken, when thumb is used as a guide in cross cutting and ripping.
6.Handle while chiseling, sawing and planning with care.

Result: - Half- lap joint is made as per the required dimensions.

 MORTISE AND TENON JOINT

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

Aim: - To make a Mortise and Tenon joint.

Tools required: -

1. Carpenter’s vice

2. Steel Rule

3. Try square

4. Jack plane

5. Scriber

6. Cross cut saw

7. Marking gauge

8. Firmer chisel

9. Mallet

10. Wood rasp file and smooth file

Material required: - Wooden pieces of size 50 x 35 x 250 mm–2 Nos.

Sequence of operations: -

1. Measuring and Marking

2. Planning

3. Check for squareness

4. Removal of extra material

5. Sawing

6. Chiseling

7. Finishing
SKETCH:

ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MM

Procedure: -

1. The given reaper is checked for dimensions.

2. They are planed with jack plane and checked for straightness.

3. The two surfaces are checked for squareness with a try square.

4. Marking gauge is set and lines are marked at 30 and 45 mm to mark the
thicknessand width of the model respectively.

5. The excess material is first chiseled with firmer and then planned to
correctsize.

6. The mating dimensions of the parts X and Y are then marked using steel rule
andmarking gauge.

7. Using the crosscut saw, the portions to be removed are cut in both the
pieces,followed by chiseling.

8. The ends of both the parts are chiseled to the exact lengths.

9. The fine finishing is given to the parts, if required so that, proper fitting
isobtained.

10. The parts are fitted to obtain a slightly tight joint.

Safety precautions: -

1. Loose cloths are to be avoided.

2. Tools to be placed at their proper placed.

3. Hands should not be placed in front of sharp edged tools.

4. Use only sharp tools.

5. Care should be taken, when thumb is used as a guide in cross cutting

andripping.

6. Handle while chiseling, sawing and planning with care.

Result: - Mortise and Tenon joint is made as per the required dimensions.
 CROSS HALF LAP JOINT

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

AIM: to make a cross half lap joint.

MATERIALS REQUIRED: Teak wood (30mm*150mm*50mm)

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT USED:

1. Steel rule
2. Try square
3. Marking guage
4. Rip saw
5. Tenon saw
6. Mortise chisel
7. Mallet
8. Jack plane
9. Wood rasp file

OPERATIONS TO BE CARRIED OUT:

1. Planning
2. Marking
3. Sawing
4. Chiseling
5. Finishing

PROCEDURE:

1. The wooden pieces are made into two halves and are checked for dimensions.
2. One side of pieces is planned with jack planeand for strraightness.
3. An adajacent side is planned and checked for squareness with a try square.
4. Marking guage is set and lines are marked at 40-50 mm to make the thickness and width
according to given figure
5. The excess material is planned to correct size.
6. Using tenon saw, the portions to be removed are cut in both the pieces
7. The excess material in X is chiseled with mortise chisel.
8. The excess material in Y in chiseled to suit X
9. The end of both the pieces is chiseled to exact lengths.
SKETCH:
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS:

1. Reaper should be free from moisture

2. Marking is done with out parallax error
3. Care shoukd be taken while chiseling
4. Matching of x and y pieces should be tight.

RESULT:

The cross half lap joint is made success fully.

 SHEET METAL WORKING
INTRODUCTION:
Many engineering and house hold articles such as boxes, cans, funnels, ducts etc., are
made from a flat sheet of metals. These process being known as tin smithy. For this, the
development of the article is first drawn on the sheet metal then cut and folded to form the
required shape of the article. The edge of the articles are then secured through welding,
brazing, soldering, riveting etc.

Sheet metal materials:-

A variety of metals used in a sheet metal shop such as black iron, aluminum and stainless
steel. A sheet of soft steel which is coated with molten zinc is known as galvanized iron.
The zinc coat forms a coating that resists rust, improves the appearance of the metal and
permits it to be solderised with greater care.

Hand tools:-
The common hand tools used in sheet metals work are steel rule, usually of 60 cm length,
Vise gauge, dot punch, scriber, trammels, ball peen hammer, and straight peen hammer,
cross peen hammer, mallets, snips and soldering iron.

Trammels:-
Sheet metals layouts require marking of arcs and circles. This may be done by using the
trammels. The length of the beam decides the maximum size of the arc that can be scribed.

Wire gauge:-
The thickness of the sheet metal is referred in numbers known as standard wire gauge
(SWG). The gaps in the circumstance of the gauge are used to check the gauge number.

Bench shears:-
Sheet metal may be cut by shearing action. In this the force is applied through a
compound lever, making it possible to cut sheet metal up to 4mm thick. The chopping hole
can shear a mild steel rod up to 10mm diameter.

Snips:-
Snips are hand shears, varying in length from 200mm to 600mm. 200mm to 250mm
being the commonly used. The straight lines are curved snips or bent snips are for
trimming along inside curves.

Hammers:-
Ball peen hammer has a cylindrical slightly curved face and a ball head straight peen and
similar to the cross peen, but it is positioned paralleled to the handle which can be used
conveniently for certain operations of folding.

Stakes:-
Stakes are nothing but anvils, which are used as supporting tools and to form seam, bend,
rivet sheet metal objects.
Fig: 1 Sheet metal joints

Fig: 2 Stakes
 Snips:-
Snips are hand shears, varying in length from 200mm to 600mm. 200mm to 250mm
being the commonly used. The straight lines are curved snips or bent snips are for
trimming along inside curves.

Hammers:-
Ball peen hammer has a cylindrical slightly curved face and a ball head straight peen and
similar to the cross peen, but it is positioned paralleled to the handle which can be used
conveniently for certain operations of folding.

Stakes:-
Stakes are nothing but anvils, which are used as supporting tools and to form seam, bend,
rivet sheet metal objects.

SHEET METAL JOINTS:

Various types of joints are used in sheet metal work to suit the varying requirement.
These are self-secured joints, formed by joining together two pieces of sheets metal and
using the metal itself to form the joints. These joints are to be used on sheets of less than
1.6mm thickness.

Riveting:-
Rivets are used to fasten two of more sheets of metal together. It is the common practice
to use the rivets of the same material as that of the sheets having fastened.

Sheet metal screws:-

These are used in sheet metal work to join and install duct work for ventilation air
conditioning etc. These screws are also known as self-tapping screws since they cut their
own threads.

Soldering:-
Soldering is one method of joining two pieces of metal with an alloy that melts at a lower
temperature than the metals to be joined for a good job. The metals to be joined must be
free from dirt, grease and oxide. Solder is made of tin and lead in equal proportions. It
comes either in the form of wire and bar.

Soldering iron:-
Soldering requires a source of heating. A common method of transmitting heat of the
metal surfaces is by using a soldering iron.
 TAPERED TRAY
EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

AIM: - To make a tapered tray using the given G.I. Sheet.

TOOLS REQUIRED: -

1. Steel rule
2. Scriber
3. Straight snip
4. Bench vice
5. Stake
6. Cross peen hammer
7. Wooden mallet
8. Cutting pier

MATERIAL REQUIRED: - Galvanized Iron (G.I) sheet 110 x 125 mm size.

SEQUECE OF OPERATIONS:-

1. Cleaning
2. Surface leveling
3. Marking
4. Cutting
5. Folding
SKETCH:
PROCEDURE: -
1. Clean the given sheet with cotton waste.
2. The size of the given sheet is checked with the steel rule.
3. Flatten the surface of the given sheet with wooden mallet.
4. Check the G.I. Sheet for dimensions and remove extra material, if any.
5. Mark all the measuring lines on the given sheet with scriber.
6. Cut the given sheet with straight snips as required.
7. Fold the given sheet by using stakes and ball peen hammer to the required
shape.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: -

1. For marking purpose use scriber only. Do not use pencil or pen.
2. Sufficient care is to be taken while cutting and folding of G.I. sheet.
3. Remove the waste pieces immediately from the work place.

RESULT:

Tapered tray is made as per the required dimensions.

 RECTANGULAR TRAY

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

AIM: To make a rectangular Tray as per required dimensions.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:
Galvanized Iron sheet (150*110*26 gauge)

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:

1. Steel rule
2. Flat file
3. Scriber
4. Try square
5. Snips
6. Dot punch
7. Stakes
8. Mallet

OPERATIONS TO BE CARRIED OUT:

1. Planning
2. Marking
3. Cutting
4. Bending
5. Seaming
6. Soldering
SKETCH:
PROCEDURE:

1. The size of the given sheet is checked with steel rule.

2. Mark the measurement and make the development surface sketch diagram.
3. The layout of the tray is marked on given sheet.
4. The layout of the tray is cut by using the straight snips.
5. The sheet is bent to the required shape using stakes and mallet.
6. Now the bent edges are made to overlap each other and stuck with a mallet to get the
required joint.
7. The joint is soldered.

PRECAUTIONS:

1. Care should be taken while cutting with snip.

2. Care should be taken while bending and jumping.

RESULT:

The rectangular tray is done successfully.

 CONICAL FUNNEL
EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

AIM: - To make Conical funnel using the given G.I. Sheet.

TOOLS REQUIRED: -
1. Steel rule
2. Scriber
3. Straight snip
4. Bench vice
5. Stake
6. Cross peen hammer
7. Wooden mallet
8. Cutting pier

MATERIAL REQUIRED: - Galvanized Iron (G.I) sheet 160 x 80mm size.

SEQUECE OF OPERATIONS:-

1. Cleaning
2. Surface leveling
3. Marking
4. Cutting
5. Folding
SKETCH:

FUNNEL DEVELOPEMENT
PROCEDURE: -

1. Clean the given sheet with cotton waste.

2. The size of the given sheet is checked with the steel rule.
3. Flatten the surface of the given sheet with wooden mallet.
4. Check the G.I. Sheet for dimensions and remove extra material, if any.
5. Mark all the measuring lines on the given sheet with scriber.
6. Cut the given sheet with straight snips as required.
7. Fold the given sheet by using stakes and ball peen hammer to the required shape.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: -
1.For marking purpose use scriber only. Do not use pencil or pen.
2.Sufficient care is to be taken while cutting and folding of G.I. sheet.
3.Remove the waste pieces immediately from the work place.

RESULT:
Conical funnel is made as per the required dimensions.
 ELBOW PIPE
EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

AIM: - To make Elbow pipe using the given G.I. Sheet.

TOOLS REQUIRED: -
1. Steel rule
2. Scriber
3. Straight snip
4. Bench vice
5. Stake
6. Cross peen hammer
7. Wooden mallet
8. Cutting pier

MATERIAL REQUIRED: - Galvanized Iron (G.I) sheet 160 x 80mm size.

SEQUECE OF OPERATIONS:-

1. Cleaning
2. Surface leveling
3. Marking
4. Cutting
5. Folding
 ELBOW

Diameter of elbow pipe 20mm

PROCEDURE: -

1. Clean the given sheet with cotton waste.

2. The size of the given sheet is checked with the steel rule.
3. Flatten the surface of the given sheet with wooden mallet.
4. Check the G.I. Sheet for dimensions and remove extra material, if any.
5. Mark all the measuring lines on the given sheet with scriber.
6. Cut the given sheet with straight snips as required.
7. Fold the given sheet by using stakes and ball peen hammer to the required shape.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: -

1.For marking purpose use scriber only. Do not use pencil or pen.
2.Sufficient care is to be taken while cutting and folding of G.I. sheet.
3.Remove the waste pieces immediately from the work place.

RESULT:
Elbow pipe is made as per the required dimensions.
 FITTING

INTRODUCTION:
Machine tools are capable of producing work at a faster rate, but there are occasions
when components are processed at a bench. Sometimes it becomes necessary to replaceor
repair a component that must fit accurately with one another or reassemble. This
involves a certain amount of hand fitting. The assembly machine tools, jigs, gauges etc.,
involves certain amount of bench work.

FITTING TOOLS:
Holding tools:-
Bench vice
V-block with clampC-clamp
Bench vice:-
It is a work holding device, when vice handle is turned in a clockwise direction the
sliding jaw forces the work against the fixed jaw, the greater the force applied to the
handle, the tighter is the work held.
V- block with clamp:-
It is a rectangular (or) square block with v-groove on one or both sides, opposite to each
other. It holds cylindrical work pieces.
C-clamp:-
This is used to hold work against an angle plate or v-block.

MARKING AND MEASURING TOOLS:

1. Surface plate
2. Try square
3. Angle plate
4. Scriber
5. Universal scribing block
6. Odd leg caliper
7. Divider
8. Calipers
9. Dot punch
10. Vernier caliper

Surface plate:-
It is used for testing flatness of work piece, for marking out small works.
Fig: 1 Bench wise Fig: 2 V- Block

Fig: 3 C – Clamp Fig: 4 Surface plate

Fig: 5 Angle plate Fig: 6 Dot punch

Fig: 6 try square Fig: 7 scriber

Combination cutting pliers: -
This is made of tool steel and is used for cutting as well as for ripping work.
Taps and die holders: -
Tap and wrenches are used for cutting internal threads in a drilled hole.
Dies and die holders:-
They are used for making external threads. Dies are made either solid (or) split type.

TYPES OF FILES:
Hand file:-
It is a rectangular in section tapered in thickness but parallel in width.
Flat file:-
Rectangular in section and tapered for 1/3rd length in width and thickness.
Square file:-
Square in section and tapered for 1/3rd length on all sides.
Half round file:-
It has one flat face, connecting by a curved (surface) face & tapered for 1/3rd length.
Round file:-
Circular in cross section and tapered for 1/3rd length, it has double cut teeth.

MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS:
Ball peen hammer:-
It has a flat face, which is used for general work and a ball end is used for riveting.
Screw driver:-
It is designed to turn the screws. The blade is made of steel and is available in different
lengths and diameters.
Spanners:-
It is a tool for turning nuts and bolts. It is usually made of forged steel.

FITTING OPERATIONS:
Chipping:-
Removing metal with a chisel is called chipping and is normally used where machining is
not possible.
Fitting:-
1. Pinning of files:-
Soft metals cause this; the pins are removed with a file card.
2. Checking flatness and square ness:-
To check flatness across thickness of plate.

MARKING AND MEASURING:

Measurements are taken either from a center line, for visibility of the non-ferrous metals
and oxide coated steels are used.
 Fig: 8 odd leg clamp and divider

Fig: 9 calipers Fig: 10 Vernier caliper

Fig: 11 Parts of hand file

Fig: 12 Types of files Fig: 13 ball peen hammer
 V-FIT

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

AIM: - To make a V-fit from the given two M.S pieces.

TOOLS REQUIRED: -
1. Bench vice
2. Steel rule
3. Try square
4. Ball peen hammer
5. Scriber
6. Hack saw with blade
7. Dot punch and Centre punch
8. Surface plate
9. Rough and smooth flat files
10. Flat chisel and triangular file

MATERIAL REQUIRED: - Mild steel (M.S) plate of size 48 x 34–2 Nos.

SEQUECE OF OPERATIONS:-

1. Filing
2. Checking flatness and squareness
3. Marking and measuring
4. Punching
5. Sawing
6. Chipping
7. Finishing
SKETCH:

ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MM

PROCEDURE: -

1. The burrs in the pieces are removed and the dimensions are checked with thesteel
rule.
2. The pieces are clamped one after the other and the outer mating edges are filedby
using rough and smooth files.
3. The flatness, straightness and squareness i.e. right angle between adjacent sidesare
checked with help of Try-square.
4. Chalk is then applied on the surfaces of the two pieces.
5. The given dimensions of the V-fitting are marked carefully.
6. Using the dot punch, dots are punched along the above scribed lines.
7. Using the hack saw, the unwanted portions are removed.
8. Using the flat chisel, the unwanted material in the piece Y is removed.
9. The cut edges are filed by the half round file.
10. The corners of the stepped surfaces are filed by using a square or triangular fileto get
the sharp corners.
11. The pieces (X and Y) are fitted together and the mating is checked for the
correctness of the fit.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: -

1. Care is taken to see that the marking dots are not crossed, which is indicated by
the half of the punch dots left on the pieces.
2. Apply pressure in forward direction during hack sawing.
3. Don’t rub steel rule on the job.

4. Fix blade in hack saw frame with correct tension.

5. During hack sawing the coolant like water or lubricating oil is to be used.
7. Files are to be cleaned properly after using.

RESULT: -
The required V-fit is thus obtained as per given dimensions.
 SQUARE FIT

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

AIM: To make a Square fit from the given mid steel pieces.

MATERIALS REQUIRED: mild steel flat (40*40*3mm).

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:

1.6”try square
2. 6”sriber
3. Odd leg caliper 3.12”hack saw Frame
4 Blades (12 TPI)
5. 10”rough file
6. 10”smooth file
7. 10”Square file
8. Dot punch
9. Ball peen hammer (0.5 Ib).
10. Steel Rule

SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS:
1. Filling
2. Marking
3. Punching
4. Sawing
5. Filling
6. Finishing

PROCEDURE:
1. The given mild steel flat piece is checked for given dimensions.
2. One edge of given is filled to straightness with rough and smooth files and checked with try
square.
3. An adjacent is also filled such that is square to first edge and checked with try square.
4. Wet chalk is applied on one side of the flat and dried for making.
5. Lines are marked according to given figure, using odd leg caliper and steel rule.
6. using the dot punch are made along the marked lines.
7. The excess materials removed from the remaining two edges with try square level up to half of
the marked dots.
8. Finally buts are removed by the filling on the surface of the fitted job.
SKETCH:
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS:

1. The perpendicularity of face ends edges is checked perfectly by using try square.
2. Finishing is given by using only with smooth files.
3. Marking is done without parallax error.

RESULT:

The Square cutting is done successfully

 BICYCLE TIRE PUNCTURE AND CHANGE OF
TWO WHEELER TYRE

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

AIM: - To repair bicycle tire puncture and change of two wheeler tyre.

TOOLS REQUIRED: -
1. Rim protector
2. Tire Irons
3. Valve core tool
4. Air compressor
5. Bead breaker
6. Silicone lubricant
7. Tire pressure gauge
8. Hand gloves
MATERIALS REQUIRED: - 1. Bicycle tire puncture kit
BICYCLE TIRE PUNTCURE:

Procedure:

Finding the puncture:

1.Remove the wheel from the bike.
2.Use tire levers to remove the tire.
3.Locate the hole that’s causing the leak.
4.Mark the hole in the tube.

Patching the hole:

1.Remove any foreign objects from the hole.
2.Sand around the hole if necessary.
3.Apply the patch.
4.Know when replacing the tube is a smarter choice.

Putting the wheel back together:

1.Replace the tube in the tire.
2.Work the tire and tube back onto the wheel.
3.Inspect the bead and pump up the tube gradually to let the tube and tire settle.
4.Replace the wheel on the bike.
5.Consider buying a new tube when you can
CHANGE OF TWO WHEELER TYRE:

Procedure:
Taking off the wheel:
1. Put your bicycle on its side with the chain facing up.
2. Adjust your gears to the smallest ring if you are removing the back tire.
3. Open and remove the quick release lever, if your bike has one.
4. Use a wrench to loosen the nuts if you don’t have a quick release lever.
5. Detach the brake cables if necessary.
6. Lift the wheel off the frame.

Removing the tire and tube:

1. Shift down and hang the bike from a tree or workstand to work on it.
2. Disengage the brakes if they get in the way of removing the wheel.
3. Loosen the nuts that attach the wheel axle to the bike.
4. Pull the chain clear of the gear discs if you are removing the rear wheel.
5. Pull the wheel clear of the bike frame.

Pulling out the old tube:

1. Deflate the tire fully while it’s still on the removed wheel.
2. Pry out a section of the outer tire with two simple levers.
3. Pop out the rest of the tire from the wheel rim.
4. Pull the tube out from between the outer tire and wheel rim.

Installing the new tube:

1. Pump up the replacement tube just until it has a basic circular shape.
2. Feed the new tube between the outer tire and wheel rim.
3. Work the tire back onto the inner rim of the wheel frame.
4. Fill the new tube with air to the recommended tire pressure.
Reattaching the wheel:

1. Follow the same procedure you used to remove the wheel, only in reverse.
2. Guide the wheel onto the fork on the bike frame.
3. RE-engage the brakes.
4. Tighten the nuts to secure the wheel in place.

RESULT:
Bicycle tire puncture and change of two wheeler tyre is done succefully.
 ELECTRICAL WIRING
INTRODUCTION:-
Power is supplied to domestic installations through a phase and a neutral, forming a
single phase. A.C 230V, 2- wire system for industrial establishments. Power is supplied
through three phase four wire system to give 440V. Fig.Shows the power tapping for
domestic and industrial purposes. The neutral is earthed at the distribution sub-station of
the supply.
When supplied to domestic utilizes power is fed to a kilowatt meter and then to a
distribution panel. The panel distributes power along several circuits’ breakers. The panel
also serves as a main switch.
Electrical wiring is defined as a system of electrical conductors, components and
apparatus for conveying electrical power from the source to the point of use. The wiring
system must be designed to provide a constant voltage to the load.

ELEMENTS OF HOUSE WIRING:-

Fuses & circuitBreakers:
These are the devices to provide protection to a circuit against excess current. Open link
fuses are not in safe in operations, even though they are cheaper and reliable. It consists
of a thin strip of metal (or) wire.
Electric switch:
This is a device that makes and breaks or changes the course of electric circuit. It
consists of 2 or more contacts mounted on an insulating structure and arranged such that
they may be moved in to and out of contact with each other by a suitable operating
mechanism.
Plug:
It is a device carrying 2 or 3 contact, designed for engagement with corresponding plugs
pins and arranged for connection to fixed wiring and arranged for attachment to appliances
such as radio, T.V, table, fan etc.,
Socket outlet:-
It is a device carrying 2 or 3 contacts, designed for engagement with corresponding plug
pins and arranged for connection to fixing wiring.
Lamp holder:-
These are designed to hold lamps & connect them in the circuit. Both bay one cap and
screw lamp holders are available up to 200 watts lamps.
Ceiling rose:-
A ceiling rose consists of a circular base & cover made of Bakelite. The base has 2 or 3
terminal plates. One end of the plate is connected to supply wire connected to pendentlamp,
ceiling fan, exhaust fan, etc.
 Main switch:-
This is a switch intended to connect or cut-off the supply of electrical to the whole of
an installation. It is generally of metal clad type. The metal clad gives greater strength
and safety. The main switch contains one or more fuses, single phase, and A.C.circuits.

Incandescent light:-
Incandescent means ‘glowing at white heat’. A lamp actually works like heating elements
that it
gives off light by becoming white hot, the amount of power it consume is stamped on
the bulb. Higher the wattage, brighter the light. The bulbs have filaments made of
tungsten.

Interior wiring:-
Wires & wire sizes:- A wire is defined as a bare or insulated conductor consisting of one
(or) several strands. An insulating wire consists of a conductor with insulating material
made of Vulcanized Indian Rubber (VIR) (or) Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC). The wire may
consist of 1 or several twisted strands. A multi sore conductor consists of several cores
insulated from one another and enclosed in a common seating. Wire sizes are specified by
the diameter of the wire, using a standard wire gauge (SWG), which also gives an idea of
the current carrying capacity. The specification consists of the both the number of strands
and the diameter of the each wire in it
 PARALLEL AND SERIES
(WIRING FOR TWO LAMPS CONTROL BY ONE SWITCH)

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

Two Lamps Connected in Series or Parallel by a One Way Switch: Two lamps may
beconnected by a one way switch in parallel for bright glow or in series for dull glow. This
isrecommended when the intensity in the room as to be controlled.
SERIES

AIM: - To give connection to two lamps, controlled With Independent Switch Controls
with or Without Looping.
TOOLS REQUIRED: -
1. Screw driver
2. Cutting pliers
3. Ball peen hammer
4. Insulation remover
5. Tester
MATERIAL REQUIRED: -
1. Wooden wiring board
2. Silk wire
3.Electrical bulbs
4.One-way switch
5.Wooden round blocks
6.Batten lamp holders
7. Wire clips
8. Nails
9. Screws
SKETCH:
PROCEDURE: -

1. The outline of the wiring diagram is marked on the wooden wiring board.
2. Clips are nailed to the board, following the wiring diagram.
3. Wires are stretched and clamped with the clips.
4. Round blocks are screwed on to the board, as per the diagram.
5. Wires are connected to the holders and the switch, which are then screwed onto the
round blocks.
6. Bulb is fitted to the holder.
7. The wiring connections are tested, by giving power supply.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: -

1. Electricity has no respect for ignorance. Do not apply voltage or turn-on any
device until it has been properly checked.
2. Care should be taken from electrical shocks.
3. Don’t touch the connection points.

4. Avoid loose connection.

5. Don’t work at damped areas and with wet clothing.

6. Handle the lamp carefully.

Result: - The electrical circuit, for two lights controlled by one switch in parallel and
series is thus made.
 TWO_WAY SWITCH

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

AIM: - To give connections to one light controlled by 2 two-way switches.

TOOLS REQUIRED: -
1. Screw driver
2. Cutting pliers
3. Ball peen hammer
4. Insulation remover
5. Tester
6. 2 two-way switches

MATERIAL REQUIRED: -

1.Wooden wiring board

2.Silk wire
3.Electrical bulb
4.Two -way switches
5.Wooden round block
6.Batten lamp holder
7.Wire clips
8.Nails
9.Screws
SKETCH:

Fig:1 One lamp controlled by 2 two – way switches

PROCEDURE: -
1. The outline of the wiring diagram is marked on the wooden wiring board.
2. Clips are nailed to the board, following the wiring diagram.
3. Wires are stretched and clamped with the clips.
4. Round blocks are screwed on to the board, as per the diagram.
5. Wires are connected to the holders and the switch, which are then screwed onto the
round blocks.
6. Bulb is fitted to the holder.
7. The wiring connections are tested, by giving power supply.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: -
1. Electricity has no respect for ignorance. Do not apply voltage or turn-on any device
until it has been properly checked.
2. Care should be taken from electrical shocks.
3. Don’t touch the connection points.
4. Avoid loose connection.
5. Don’t work at damped areas and with wet clothing.
6. Handle the lamp carefully.

RESULT: -

light controlled by 2 two-way switches is done.

 TUBELIGHT

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

Tube light: Tube lights are the commonly used light sources for illumination in the houses,
industries, commercial organizations etc. A tube light is a low pressure mercury discharge lamp
with internal surface coated with suitable fluorescent material.

AIM: - To give connections to tubelight.

TOOLS REQUIRED: -
1. Screw driver
2. Cutting pliers
3. Ball peen hammer
4. Insulation remover
5. Tester
6. 2 two-way switches

MATERIAL REQUIRED: -

1.Wooden wiring board

2.Silk wire
3.Electrical bulb
4.Two -way switches
5.Wooden round block
6.Batten lamp holder
7.Wire clips
8.Nails
9.Screws
SKETCH:
PROCEDURE: -
1. The outline of the wiring diagram is marked on the wooden wiring board.
2. Clips are nailed to the board, following the wiring diagram.
3. Wires are stretched and clamped with the clips.
4. Round blocks are screwed on to the board, as per the diagram.
5. Wires are connected to the holders and the switch, which are then screwed
onto the round blocks.
6. Bulb is fitted to the holder.
7. The wiring connections are tested, by giving power supply.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: -
1. Electricity has no respect for ignorance. Do not apply voltage or turn-on any
deviceuntil it has been properly checked.
2. Care should be taken from electrical shocks.
3. Don’t touch the connection points.
4. Avoid loose connection.
5. Don’t work at damped areas and with wet clothing.
6. Handle the lamp carefully.

RESULT: -
Tubelight connections given successfully
 6.FOUNDARY
Introduction

Foundry practice deals with the process of making castings in molds, formed in either sand or
some other material. The process involves the operations of pattern making, sand preparation,
molding, melting of metals, pouring in molds, cooling, shake-out, heat treatment, finishing, and
inspection.
Pattern
Pattern is the principal tool during the casting process. It may be defined as a model of anything,
so constructed that it may be used for forming an impression called would in damp sand or other
suitable material.

When this mold is filled with molten metal and the metal is allowed to solidify it forms a
reproduction of the pattern and is known as casting. The process of making pattern is known as
pattern making.
Mold
Mold is cavity formed by the pattern. It is similar in shape and size to that of the actual casting
plus some allowances for shrinkage, machining etc. Molds are classified as temporary and
permanent. Temporary molds are made of refractory sand and other binding materials and may be
produced either through hand molding or machine molding.

Molding Sand
Sand is the principal material used in foundry. The principal ingredients of molding sands are:
Silica sand, clay, moisture, and miscellaneous materials. Silica sand withstands very high
temperatures and doesn’t react with the molten metal.

Clay imparts the necessary bonding strength to the molding sand.

Moisture in requisite amount furnishes the bonding action of clay.

Miscellaneous materials that are formed in addition to silica and clay penetrates the mixture and
forms a microfilm which coats the surface flake shaped clay particles.

Natural molding sand is available in river beds or dug from pits. They possess an appreciable
amount of clay and are used as received with addition of water.

Synthetic sands are prepared by adding clay, water and other materials to silica sand so that
desired strength and bonding properties are achieved which are not possessed by natural sands.
Properties of Molding Sand:

The essential requirement of good molding sand is that it should produce sound castings which
are free from defects. For producing sound castings, molding sand or mold should possess the
following properties; to quote a few:
Porosity or Permeability
When molten metal is poured into a mold, gases and steam are passed through it. If they are not
removed, casting defects such as blow holes will be formed.
Flowability
Flowability of molding sand refers to its ability to its ability, under externally applied forces
(ramming), into deeper sections of the pattern and uniformly fill the flask. Flowability increases as
clay and water content increase.
Collapsibility
Collapsibility is the property of sand that permits it to collapse (break) easily during its knockout
from the castings. This property is particularly important for cores. This property depends on
amount of the sand, clay and type of binder used.
Adhesiveness
Adhesiveness is the ability of a molding sand to stick on the surface of molding boxes. It is due
to this property that the sand mass can be successfully held in a molding box and it does not fall
out of the box when it is removed.
Cohesiveness or Strength
This is the ability of sand particles to stick together. Insufficient strength may lead to a collapse
in the mold or its partial destruction during conveying, turning over or closing.
Refractoriness
The sand must be capable of withstanding the high temperature of the molten metal without
fusing.
Types of Molding Sand:
Molding sands are classified according to their use into a number of varieties. These are
described as follows:
Green Sand
It is a mixture of silica sand with 18 to 30 % clay having a total water of 6 to 8 %.
Dry Sand
Green sand that has been dried or baked after the mold is made is called dry sand.
Loam Sand
Loam sand is high in clay, as much as 50 %.
Facing Sand
Facing sand forms the face of the mold. It is used directly next to the surface of the pattern and it
comes into contact with the molten metal when the mold is poured. It is made of silica sand and
clay, without the addition of used sand.
Baking Sand
Baking sand or floor sand is used to backup the facing sand and fill the whole volume of the
flask. Old repeatedly used molding sand is mainly employed for this purpose. The baking sand is
sometimes called black sand because of the fact that old, repeatedly used molding sand is black
in color due to the addition of coal dust and burning on coming in contact with molten metal.
Parting Sand
Parting sand is used to keep the green sand from sticking to the pattern and also to allow the sand
on the parting surface of the cope and drag to separate without clinging. This is clean clay free
silica sand which serves the same purpose as parting dust.
Core Sand
The sand used for making cores is called as core sand and sometimes it is called as oil sand. This
is silica sand mixed with core oil which is composed of linseed oil. Resin light mineral oil and
other binding materials.
Pattern Materials:
The selection of pattern materials depends primarily on the following factors.
1. Service requirement, e.g. quantity, quality, and intricacy of casting i.e. minimum
thickness, desired degree of accuracy, and finish required
2. Type of production of castings and the type of molding process
3. Possibility of design changes
4.Number of castings to be produced, i.e. possibility of repeat ordersTo be

GOOD OF ITS KIND, PATTERN MATERIAL SHOULD BE:

a. Easily worked, shaped, and joined

b. Light in weight
c. Strong, hard, and durable, so that it may be resistant to wear and abrasion, corrosion, and
to chemical action
d. Dimensionally stable in all situations
e. Easily available at low cost
f. Repairable and reused
g. Able to take good surface finish
The wide variety of pattern materials which meet these characteristics are wood and wood
products; metal and alloys; plasters; plastics and rubber; and waxes.
Types of Patterns:
Single Piece or Solid Pattern
In a simple solid pattern, one side is made flat which serves as a parting surface. In this case, the
mold cavity will be entirely in the drag, and requires the more number of manual operations such
as cutting the gating system and repairing of the mold. The shape of the single piece pattern is
exactly same as that of casting. Single piece patterns are inexpensive and best suited for limited
production.

Fig: Split Pattern Fig: Single Piece Pattern

Split Pattern
Split pattern is made in two parts. One part producing the mold in drag and the other in cope.
They are kept in position by dowel pins, and the split is usually arranged along the parting line to
draw the pattern easily out of the mold before pouring of molten metal. Split piece patterns are
used for intricate castings or castings of unusual shapes.
Multi Piece Pattern
Pattern with three or more parts is used for more complex castings. This type of pattern is known
as multi piece pattern. It requires molding box with three parts. The middle one is called cheek.
Loose Piece Pattern
Loose piece pattern is used to produce the castings having projections in the sides. Such design
makes impossible to draw the pattern from the mold. It is therefore necessary to make such
projection in loose piece and fastened to main pattern by means of anchor pin.

Fig: Loose Piece Pattern

Match Plate Pattern
In this case, pattern in two halves is attached on opposite side of wooden or metal plate (match
plate). Production efficiency and dimensional accuracy of castings can be generally improved by
the use of these patterns. Several patterns for small castings (need not be same) can be mounted on
one match plate. These are mostly used in machine molding as well as for producing large number
of small castings by hand molding.

Fig: Sweep Pattern Fig: Match Plate Pattern

Sweep Pattern

It is not a true pattern, but a template made of wood or metal revolving around a fixed axis in the
mold shapes the sand to the desired contour. This eliminates the need for a large three dimensional
pattern. It is suitable for producing simple symmetrical castings such as wheels, rims, and bell
shapes.

Runner:
Runner is a horizontal channel that receives molten metal from the sprue base, and distributes to
the ingates which carries metal to the mold. Runners are usually made trapezoidal in cross-
section. They are generally located in cope and ingates in the drag. This ensures that the slag and
dross are trapped in the upper portion of runner and only molten metal enters into the mold
Runner Extension:

The runner is often extended beyond the last ingate to retain inclusions and various refractory
materials that may have been washed along the stream of molten metal. Also, it absorbs kinetic
energy causing a smooth flow of metal into the mold cavity.

Gates or Ingates:
Gates or ingates are openings through which molten metal directly enters into the mold cavity.
The gates should be designed such that the molten metal can flow steadily and quietly into the
mold cavity. They should be easily removed from the casting after solidification.

Tools and Equipment:

Molding Board
A molding board is a smooth wooden board on which the flask and pattern are placed when the
mould is being made. The figure is shown below:

Fig: Molding Boxes

Molding Boxes
Sand moulds are prepared in specially constructed boxes called flasks. The purpose of flask is to
impart the necessary rigidity and strength to the sand in molding. They are usually made in two
parts, held in alignment by dowel pins. The top part is called the cope and the lower part the drag.
These flasks can be made by wood or metal depending upon the size required and the purpose the
flask must serve.

Shovel
A shovel is used for mixing and tempering molding sand and for moving the sand from the pile
to the flask as shown in figure below:

Riddle
A riddle sometimes called a screen consists of a circular or square wooden frame fitted with a
standard wire mesh at the bottom as shown in figure below. It is used to remove coarse sand
particles and other foreign material from the foundry sand.

Fig: Shovel Fig: Riddle Fig: Rammers

 A hand rammer is used for packaging or ramming the sand into the mould. One of its ends,
called the peen end, is wedge shaped and is used for packing sand in spaces, pockets and corners,
in the early stages of ramming. The other end called the butt end, has a flat surface and is used
for compacting the sand towards the end of molding as shown in below figure.
Strike Edge or Strike-Off Bar
It is a piece of metal or wood with straight edge as shown in below figure. It is used to remove
excess sand from the mould after ramming, to provide a level surface
Riser Pin
It is a straight wooden pin used to make a hole in the cope over the mold cavity for the molten
metal to rise-in and feed the casting to compensate the shrinkage that may take place during
solidification.
Sprue Pin
It is a tapered wooden pin, as shown in below figure. It is used to make a hole in the cope
through which the molten metal is poured into the mould.

Fig: Sprue Pin Fig: Slick

It is a small double ended tool having a flat on one end and a spoon on the other end as shown in
below figure. Slicks are used for repairing and finishing small surfaces of the mould.

Lifter
Lifters are made of thin sections of steel of various widths and lengths with one end bent at right
angles as shown in below figure. They are used to clean and finish the bottom and sides of deep,
narrow openings in moulds.

Gate Cutter
It is a small piece of tin plate shape as shown in below figure. This serves as a tool for cutting
gates and runners in the mould.

Fig: Gate Cutters Fig: Vent Rods

Fig: Draw Spikes
A vent rod or wire, as shown in below figure is used to make a series of small holes to permit
gases to escape while the molten in being poured.

Drawspike or Screw
The draw spike is appointed steel rod, with a loop at one end. It is used to rap a draw patterns
from the sand. Below figure shows two kinds of draw spikes.
 PATTERN DESIGN AND MAKING

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

AIM:
To design and prepare a pattern for the casting made by malleable cast iron with consideration of suitable allowances.

MATERIALS :
• Teak wood

EQUIPMENT:
• Steel rule
• Try square
• Marking gauge
• Rip saw
• Tenon saw
• Mortise chisel
• Mallet
• Jack plane
• Wood rasp file

Procedure:
1. Pattern Design (Shrinkage and Machining allowances are taken into consideration)
• Calculate the amount of shrinkage allowance for each dimension of given casting drawing based on the
cast material.
• Calculate the amount of shrinkage allowance for given casting material.
• Calculate the total amount of allowance provided on the pattern.
• Sum the allowance and actual dimension.
• Redraw the casting drawing with the dimensions including allowances.
2. Pattern Making
• Check the dimensions of wooden piece using for pattern making and mark it according to the dimensions.
• Sides of pieces are planned with jack plane for straightness.
• Wooden piece is cut by using sawing tools according to the dimensions given in redrawn casting drawing.
• Finish the same using wood rasp file.
• Fix a the wooden piece in the drilling machine rigidly and Perform drilling operation according to the
dimensions
shown in fig.
Sketch:

PRECAUTIONS:
i. Reaper should be free from moisture
ii. Marking is done without parallax error
iii. Care should be taken while cutting and drilling.

Result:
Pattern design and pattern making completed successfully
 SAND MOULD MAKING AND CASTING

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

Aim:
1. To prepare a mould for sand casting for given pattern.
2. To melt and pour molten metal into the mold.

Equipment and Materials

• Split piece Pattern
• molding flasks
• molding tools
• melting furnace
• fluxes
• pouring ladle
• Pyrometer.

Mould Making
• The first step in making mold is to place the pattern on the molding board.
• The drag is placed on the board ((Figure 3(a)).
• Dry facing sand is sprinkled over the board and pattern to provide a non sticky layer.
• Molding sand is then riddled in to cover the pattern with the fingers; then the drag is completely filled.
• The sand is then firmly packed in the drag by means of hand rammers. The ramming must be proper i.e.
it must neither be too hard or soft.
• After the ramming is over, the excess sand is leveled off with a straight bar known as a strike rod.
• With the help of vent rod, vent holes are made in the drag to the full depth of the flask as well as to the
pattern to facilitate the removal of gases during pouring and solidification.
• The finished drag flask is now rolled over to the bottom board exposing the pattern.
• Cope half of the pattern is then placed over the drag pattern with the help of locating pins. The cope flask
on the drag is located aligning again with the help of pins ( (Figure 2 (b)).
• The dry parting sand is sprinkled all over the drag and on the pattern.
• A sprue pin for making the sprue passage is located at a small distance from the pattern. Also, riser pin, if
required, is placed at an appropriate place.
• The operation of filling, ramming and venting of the cope proceed in the same manner as performed in the
drag.
• The sprue and riser pins are removed first and a pouring basin is scooped out at the top to pour the liquid
metal.
• Then pattern from the cope and drag is removed and facing sand in the form of paste is applied all over
the mold cavity and runners which would give the finished casting a good surface finish.
• The mold is now assembled. The mold now is ready for pouring. Fig.1 Components of Sang Mould Fig.2
Spilt piece pattern
Melting and Pouring
i. Melt the metal in the furnace. Use appropriate fluxes at proper stages and measure metal temperature
from time to time.
ii. Pour the molten metal into the pouring ladle at a higher temperature (say 100o C higher) than the
pouring temperature. (Fig. 3(c)).
As soon as the desired pouring temperature is reached, pour the liquid metal into the mold in a steady
stream with ladle close to the pouring basin of the mold. Do not allow any dross or slag to go in.
iii. Allow sufficient time for the metal to solidify in the mold. Break the mold carefully and remove the
casting.
iv. Cut-off the riser and gating system from the casting and clean it for any sand etc.
v. Inspect the casting visually and record any surface and dimensional defects observed.

Sketch:

Precautions:
1. Ramming should be uniform to impart uniform strength to the mould.
2Apply parting sand at the partitions for ease separation of boxes.
3 Locate the two halves of pattern properly to avoid mismatch.

Result:
Prepation of mold cavity and pouring of molten metal completed successfully
 PREPARATION OF V-BUTT JOINT USING ARC WELDING

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

Aim:
To prepare a butt joint with mild steel strip using ARC Welding technique.

Material
Two pieces of Mild steel Equipment Welding unit, Electrode, Wire Brush, Tongs, goggles.

Procedure
i. The edges of joining surfaces of metals are prepared.
ii. Clean the mild steel flats to be joined by wire brush.
iii. Arrange the flat pieces properly providing the gap for full penetration for butt joint (gap ½ thicknesses
of flats). iv. Practice striking of arc, speed and arc length control
v. Set the welding current, voltage according to the type of metal to be joined.
vi. Strike the arc and make tacks at the both ends to hold the metal pieces together during the welding
process.
vii. Lay beads along the joint maintaining proper speed and arc length (Speed 100-150 mm/min).
viii. Clean the welded zone and submit. Fig.6. Edge Preparation for Single V

Sketch:

Single V Butt Joint

Precautions:

• Use goggles and gloves to protect the human being from the generated arc.
• Maintain constant arc length to get uniform weld bead.

Result:
But joint is prepared by using Arc welding process
 PREPARATION OF T- LAP JOINT USING ARC WELDING

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

Aim:
To prepare a T-Lap joint with mild steel strip using ARC Welding technique.

Material :Two pieces of Mild steel

Equipment :Welding unit, Electrode, Wire Brush, Tongs, goggles.

Procedure:
i. The edges of joining surfaces of metals are prepared.
ii. Clean the mild steel flats to be joined by wire brush.
iii. Arrange the flat pieces properly providing the gap for full penetration for butt joint (gap ½ thicknesses
of flats). iv. Practice striking of arc, speed and arc length control
v. Set the welding current, voltage according to the type of metal to be joined.
vi. Strike the arc and make tacks at the both ends to hold the metal pieces together during the welding
process
vii. Lay beads along the joint maintaining proper speed and arc length (Speed 100-150 mm/min).
viii. Clean the welded zone and submit.

Sketch:

Precautions:
• Use goggles and gloves to protect the human being from the generated arc.
• Maintain constant arc length to get uniform weld bead.

Result:
T-Lap joint is prepared by using arc welding process
 PLUMBING

Demonstration and practice of Plumbing tools, Preparation of Pipe joints withcoupling for
same diameter and with reducer for different diameters.

INTRODUCTION

Plumbing deals with the laying of a pipeline. A craftsman may be perfectly

proficient with the hammer, saw and other tools, but the faces difficulties with leaking
pipes and overflowing toilets. Many people rush to a plumber on seeking a tripping pipe,
but a person with a little knowledge of the sanitary system can control this problem
easily, saving time and, one with help of few tools.

STUDY OF PLUMBING TOOLS

The tools used by a plumber can be classified as follows

1. Pipe wrench 2. Pipe vice 3. Pipe cutter

4. Hacksaw 5. Dies

1. Pipe wrench
A pipe wrench is used for holding and turning the pipes, rods and machine parts.
Wrenches are classified as follows.1. Fixed wrenches 2. Adjustable wrenches.

2. Pipe vice
A pipe vice is fitted on the work bench. This has a set of jaws to grip the pipe and
prevent it from turning while cutting, threading and fitting of bends, couplings etc. The
yoke vice is commonly used in plumbing used in plumbing practice.
3. Pipe cutter
The pipe cutter mainly consists of three wheels which are hardened with sharp cutting
edges along their periphery. Of these three wheels, one can be adjusted to any desired distance to
accommodate different size of pipes. After adjusting the cutter on a pipe, it is around the pipe, so
that the cutter wheels cut the pipe along a circle asshown in the figure.

4. Hack saw

A hacksaw is used for cutting metal rods, bars, pipes, etc.

5. Dies
It is used for cutting external thread on pipes. Threads are produced in various shape and

sizes which are used for fitting inside a handle.

PIPE FITTINGS

Pipe fittings are made up of wrought iron. The size of pipe fitting is designated by the
size of the pipe on which it fits. Some of the common pipe fittings are shown in figure

1. Coupling
It is a short a cylindrical sleeve with internal threads throughout. A couplings is used for
joining two pipes in a straight and bend where at least one pipe can be turned.

2. Union
A union is used for joining two pieces of pipes, where either can be turned. It consists of
three parts, two parts joint can be screwed, in to two pipe ends, and the third on for tightening
called centre part.
3. Nipple
A nipple is a short piece of pipe with external threads at both ends. It is used to make up
the required length of a pipe line.

4. Elbow
An elbow is to make an angle between adjacent pipes.

5. Tee
A tee is a fitting that has one side outlet at a right angle to the run. It is used for

a single outlet branch pipe.

5. Reducer
It is used to connect two different sized of pipes

6. Plug
It is used to screw on to a threaded opening, for closing it temporarily.

VALVES

Valves are used for regulating the flow of fluid through a pipe. The commonly used
valves in plumbing’s are

1. Gate valve 2.Globe valve 3. Plug valve

4. Check valve 5. Air relief valve.

TYPES OF PIPE JOINTS

1. Bell and spigot joints

A connection between two sections of pipe i.e. the straight spigot end of one section is
inserted into the flared out end of the adjoining section. The joint is sealed by a sealing

component.

2. Flanged joints
A flanged joint helps to connect and disconnect two pipes as per the need. A similar

example is as shown in figure.

3. Threaded joints
Threads are formed in a pipe, flange coupling to connect them with each other and these
joints are called threaded joints.
 PIPE THREADING

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

Aim
To cut the threads at the end of the given PVC pipe by using a pipe die and to
make thePlumbing.
Material Required

1. PVC pipe
2. Elbows
3. Tap
4. Valve
5. Clamps

Tools Required

1. Pipe vice
2. Die
3. Die stock
4. Measuring scale

Procedure

1. The required diameter pipes were picked and cut to the desired length
2. The cut pipe is securely clamped in the pipe vice
3. Proper size of die stock and die is selected. It is inserted and aligned into the stock
4. The die is positioned at one end of the pipe, Pressure is applied and at the same time
die is slowly turned by turning stock handle
5. Once the threading is started, applying pressure is stopped and die is continued to turn
till onethread projects through the die
6. In the same manner the ends of the pipes are threaded and checked with an elbow
7. Then the elbow and tap are fitted and clamped on the wall
8. SKETCH:

Result

Thus the threads cut at the ends of PVC pipe to make plumbing
 PIPE LINE TO WASH BASIN

EXPERIMENT NO: DATE:

Aim
To prepare a pipe line connection to the wash basin.

Material Required

1. PVC pipe
2. Elbows
3. Flexible pipe
4. Valve
5. Clamps
6. Wash basin with tap
7. Tee Joint

Tools Required

1. Pipe wrench
2. Hammer
3. Screw driver
4. Hack saw

Procedure

1. Mark location of the wash basin and fix it

2. Fix the wash basin tap in the required position
3. Make the tee and elbow connections in the main pipe line to connect it to the wash
basin andtaps
4. Fix the gate valve near the water tank
5. Connect all the pipe fittings as per the diagram
6. The water tank was filled with water and the gate valve was opened slowly to supply
waterinto the pipe line
7. The tap were opened to check its function
 SKETCH:

Result
Thus the pipe line connection to the wash basin is made.