The Art of Scent and Color
The Art of Scent and Color
TABLE OF CONTENT
3
Pine tar ......................................................................................................................... 71
Activated charcoal soap ............................................................................................. 74
CONCLUSION ....................................................................... 76
4
Disclaimer:
Liability Waiver: The author and publisher are not liable for any direct,
indirect, incidental, or consequential damages arising from the use or
misuse of the information provided in these eBooks. It is the reader's
responsibility to ensure that all soapmaking activities are conducted
safely and in compliance with applicable legal and safety standards.
5
INTRODUCTION
Welcome back. You've taken your first steps in the world of soap-
making, and now, you're ready for the next stage. Our second book
in this series is about taking your basic soap bars to the next level,
making them more appealing, fragrant, and beneficial to the skin.
Scenting, coloring, and adding botanical and herbal elements
are like the icing on a cake. Your soap base is ready and good to go,
but isn't it more exciting when you add a dash of color, a burst of
fragrance, or the soothing touch of nature's bounty? That's exactly
what we're going to do in this book.
Imagine your soap as a blank canvas. Now, you hold the brush,
ready to add strokes of color, layers of scent, and the tangible
benefits of herbs and essential oils. You're not just making soap
anymore; you're crafting an experience, creating something
personal and unique.
Each chapter of this book will guide you through the process of
enhancing your soap. We'll talk about essential oils - what they are,
their benefits, and how to incorporate them into your soaps. We'll
explore the world of soap coloring, introducing you to various
methods and materials you can use to give your soap a visual
appeal.
Finally, we'll delve into the vast realm of botanicals and herbs.
There's so much nature has to offer, and we're going to show you
how to harness these natural wonders in your soap-making.
By the time you finish this book, your soaps won't just be
cleansing agents. They'll be colorful, fragrant, skin-nourishing
creations that you can proudly gift to your friends or sell at local
markets, or simply enjoy for your own pleasure.
So, grab your soap base, essential oils, and coloring agents.
Put on your apron, and let's get to work. It's time to make your soaps
more exciting, more personal, and more beneficial.
Let's start this scented, colorful journey together!
6
7
8
CHAPTER 1
9
So how are these potent liquids extracted?
There are two primary methods - steam distillation and cold
pressing.
Steam distillation involves passing hot steam through plant
materials. The steam ruptures the plant's cells, releasing its
essential oil into the steam. This fragrant steam is then cooled,
condensing into a liquid from which the essential oil is separated.
Cold pressing, on the other hand, is typically used for citrus
oils. It involves mechanically squeezing the essential oil from plant
material, typically the rind of fruits.
10
frankincense, myrrh, ginger, cinnamon, and sandalwood were
commonly used.
China and Persia also made significant contributions to the
development and use of essential oils. Shen Nong's Herbal Book,
dating back to approximately 2700 B.C.E., is considered the oldest
surviving Chinese book on medicinal plants. Meanwhile, Persian
scientists like Avicenna played a crucial role in refining the distillation
process of essential oils.
While essential oils were somewhat overshadowed by the rise
of modern pharmaceuticals, interest in these natural plant extracts
saw a resurgence in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. This was
fuelled by increasing interest in natural and holistic health
approaches, alongside scientific research affirming the therapeutic
benefits of various essential oils.
In today's world, the use of essential oils is widespread. They've
become a staple in aromatherapy, skincare, massage therapy, and
household products, with ongoing research exploring their potential
benefits and applications. Essential oils, bearing the wisdom of
ancient traditions and the promise of modern science, continue to
enrich our lives with their myriad uses and healing properties.
Top notes
These are the initial scents that hit the nose immediately upon
application. They are typically light, fresh, and uplifting. They tend to
evaporate quickly. Oils in this category include: Peppermint, Lemon,
Eucalyptus, Orange, Bergamot, Grapefruit, and Lemongrass.
11
Lavender, Tea Tree, Rosemary, Chamomile, Clove, Geranium,
Cinnamon, Clary Sage, and Palmarosa.
Base notes:
These are the scents that appear after the middle notes and are
usually rich and deep. They are the longest-lasting notes. Base
notes act as a fixative and hold the blend together. Oils in this
category include: Frankincense, Ylang Ylang, Patchouli,
Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Vetiver, and Jasmine.
12
Benefits of essential oils - notes and precautions
13
14
15
Safety Considerations
Prioritizing safety is paramount when utilizing essential oils.
Despite their natural origins, it is crucial to recognize that
improper use can pose potential risks.
In this book, we emphasize the significance of this aspect to
the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy (NAHA).
For a comprehensive list of safety precautions and guidelines,
please visit their website:
https://naha.org/explore-aromatherapy/safety/
1 https://naha.org/explore-aromatherapy/safety/general-safety-guidelines/
16
Use caution when treating a female who suspects she is pregnant
or has been trying to become pregnant.
Keep essential oils away from the eyes.
Essential oils are highly flammable substances and should be
kept away from direct contact with flames, such as candles, fire,
matches, cigarettes, and gas cookers.
Make sure your treatment room has good ventilation.
If essential oil droplets accidentally get into the eye (or eyes) a
cotton cloth or similar should be imbued with a fatty oil, such as
olive or sesame, and carefully swiped over the closed lid. And /
Or, immediately flush the eyes with cool water.
If an essential oil causes dermal irritation, apply a small amount
of vegetable oil or cream to the area affected and discontinue use
of essential oil or product that has caused dermal irritation.
If a child appears to have drunk several spoonfuls of essential oil,
contact the nearest poison control unit (often listed in the front of
a telephone directory). Keep the bottle for identification and
encourage the child to drink whole or 2% milk. Do not try to
induce vomiting.
2 https://naha.org/explore-aromatherapy/safety/#dermal
17
Dermal irritants
Bay Lemongrass
Cinnamon bark3 or leaf Lemon verbena
Clove bud Oregano
Citronella Tagetes
Cumin Thyme ct. thymol
Storing
Storing essential oils properly is crucial to preserve their
potency, aroma, and therapeutic properties. Here are guidelines to
ensure the longevity and effectiveness of your essential oils:
18
Dry Environment: Store essential oils in a dry environment.
Moisture can lead to contamination, which may affect the quality
of the oil.
Labelling: Clearly label each bottle with the name of the
essential oil and the date of purchase. This helps you keep track
of the oils in your collection and their expiration dates.
Shelf-Life Awareness: Be aware of the shelf life of each
essential oil. While some oils last for several years, others may
have a shorter shelf life. Use older oils first and replace them as
needed.
Avoid Contamination: Use clean and dry droppers or pipettes
when dispensing essential oils to prevent contamination. Never
touch the dropper with your fingers.
Childproof Storage: If you have children or pets, store essential
oils in a safe and secure location, preferably in a locked cabinet.
Some essential oils can be harmful if ingested or applied
undiluted.
Regular Inspection: Periodically inspect your essential oil
collection for any changes in color, consistency, or aroma. If you
notice any signs of deterioration, it may be time to replace the oil.
19
20
CHAPTER 2
Fragrance oils
What are Fragrance Oils?
Fragrance oils are synthetically produced in laboratories, often
lacking natural elements, designed to mimic specific scents ranging
from natural aromas like lavender to imaginative ones like "ocean
breeze."
Created by perfumers who use an extensive palette of synthetic
and natural aroma compounds, carefully combining them in precise
ratios. The process is a meticulous craft that requires a deep
understanding of chemistry, access to high-quality ingredients, and a
sophisticated sense of smell. The goal is to create a balanced and
appealing fragrance that remains stable over time.
Fragrance oils are found in a wide range of consumer products,
including perfumes, cosmetics, soaps, candles, cleaning products,
and more. They are particularly favored in these applications for
their diversity of scent, consistency, longevity, and often lower cost
compared to natural essential oils.
However, not all fragrance oils are created equal. They can
range from high-quality options that are carefully crafted and
extensively tested, to cheaper versions that may contain potentially
harmful ingredients or produce an unpleasant or short-lived scent.
21
Broad Range of Scents
As we mentioned earlier, one of the most significant benefits of
fragrance oils is the sheer variety of scents available. With the
ability to mimic almost any aroma, from natural scents such as rose
or sandalwood to more exotic or fanciful ones like chocolate chip
cookies or ocean breeze, fragrance oils offer an almost unlimited
palette of scents. This broad range of options allows
manufacturers and consumers alike to create or choose a scent that
perfectly suits their preferences or the desired ambiance.
Longevity of Scent
Fragrance oils generally have a longer-lasting scent than essential
oils. Because they are synthetically made, fragrance oils are
designed to have a high tenacity or staying power. This makes
them an excellent choice for products where a long-lasting fragrance
is desired, such as perfumes, candles, or room sprays.
Cost-Effectiveness
In many cases, fragrance oils are more cost-effective than essential
oils. Some essential oils are made from plants that are rare, difficult
to grow, or require large amounts for a small yield of oil, making
them quite expensive. In contrast, because they are synthetically
produced, fragrance oils can often deliver a comparable scent at
a lower cost.
22
Less Likely to Cause Sensitization
While both essential oils and fragrance oils can cause allergic
reactions or skin irritation in some people, some fragrance oils are
less likely to do so, especially if they are phthalate-free. This is
because they can be formulated to exclude specific allergens or
irritants that might be present in an essential oil. However, despite
these benefits, it’s crucial to choose high-quality fragrance oils
and use them responsibly.
23
The Fragrance Wheel and Fragrance Oils in
Soapmaking
The fragrance wheel, also known as the aroma wheel, is a tool
used to visualize the relationships among different fragrances.
It is divided into major scent categories like floral, oriental, woody,
and fresh, which are then broken down into subcategories.
When it comes to soapmaking, the choice of fragrance oils can
significantly influence the final product. The right fragrance can turn
a simple soap into a sensory experience, invoking emotions and
memories.
The wheel helps in understanding how scents relate to each
other and can guide you in choosing and combining scents that
complement each other and align with the desired experience.
Let's take a look at some common fragrance oils within each of
these categories used in soapmaking.
24
Remember that this is not an exhaustive list, and many more
fragrance oils are available. Scent profiles can be complex, and a
fragrance oil might belong to more than one category.
25
Choosing the Right Fragrance
Selecting the right fragrance oil is a highly personal and subjective
process, influenced by individual tastes, desired applications, and
even mood or season. What scents do you love? Do you prefer
floral notes like rose or jasmine, or do you lean towards fruity
scents like apple or citrus? Maybe you prefer exotic oriental
fragrances, or perhaps fresh, natural smells like pine or ocean. Start
by identifying scents you enjoy in your daily life, then look for
fragrance oils that capture those aromas. Always experiment and
use your nose when selecting and combining fragrance oils.
26
Phototoxicity
Certain fragrance oils, especially those with citrus notes, can cause
phototoxicity, making the skin more susceptible to sunburn. If
you're using these oils, it's crucial to advise users to avoid direct
sunlight after application.
Usage Rates
Each fragrance oil will have a recommended usage rate provided
by the manufacturer, usually given as a percentage. This rate
should not be exceeded, as doing so can result in skin irritation and
could potentially make the soap unsafe to use.
Proper Storage
Fragrance oils should be stored correctly to maintain their quality
and prevent any potential hazards. They should be kept in a cool,
dark place, away from direct sunlight or heat sources.
Patch Testing
If you're making soap for personal use, consider doing a patch test
when using a new fragrance oil. This involves applying a small
amount of the soap to a discreet area of skin, waiting 24-48 hours,
and observing if any reaction occurs. This practice can help you
identify any potential reactions to a specific fragrance oil.
27
In essence, the use of fragrance oils in soapmaking should be
approached with care and a good understanding of the oil's
properties. Always adhere to safety guidelines and industry
standards when using these oils in your soapmaking process
28
29
CHAPTER 3
30
Tertiary Colors: These are the result of mixing a primary color with
a neighboring secondary color on the wheel. The names of these
colors are hyphenated: red-orange, yellow-orange, yellow-green,
blue-green, blue-violet, and red-violet.
Colors that are next to each other on the wheel are called
analogous colors. These color schemes usually match well and
create serene and comfortable designs.
31
Whether you're a painter, a graphic designer, or a soap maker,
understanding these basic concepts can help you create
aesthetically pleasing color combinations.
32
The right moment to color
Coloring soap adds a creative touch and enhances the visual appeal
of the final product. There are the different methods:
33
Colors in soapmaking
There are several common options to consider: lab colors,
pigments, micas and natural colorants. Each of these choices
provides unique properties and effects when incorporated into your
soap-making process. it is important to familiarize yourself with
the different types of colors and their characteristics.
Lab Colors
Lab colors are synthetic, highly concentrated dye colorants that are
commonly approved by cosmetics authorities for use on the skin,
resulting in vibrant colors.
Lab colors must be diluted before use in soapmaking. The
dilution process generally involves adding the lab color to distilled
water at a specific ratio that can vary based on the supplier's
instructions. However, due to their water solubility, lab colors may
bleed or spread within your soap.
Once mixed, the diluted lab color should be stored in a sealed
container in a cool, dark place, clearly labelled with the dilution ratio
and date.
34
pigments to provide a color range beyond the whites, creams, and
browns of natural micas.
While micas are widely accepted in the cosmetic and
soapmaking industry, and considered safe by the FDA6, there are
inhalation concerns, particularly for workers involved in the
extraction process7
Natural Colorants
Natural colorants are colors that come from things like clays,
spices, plants, and vegetables. Many soap makers like using
natural colorants instead of artificial ones to keep their soaps as
natural as possible.
For a long time, people have used natural clays in skincare due
to their cleansing and purifying qualities. In soap making, they are
popular as a natural way to add color since they come in various
vibrant shades.
While the colors from these natural sources might not be as
bright as those made in labs, you can still get cheerful colors by
using two or more natural colorants together.
Natural colorants can be a bit unpredictable and variable, as
their color may change depending on the pH of the soap, how much
is used, and even where the ingredient was grown. This can lead to
unique and varied results, which can be part of the charm of using
natural colorants.
6 https://www.chemicalsafetyfacts.org/chemicals/titanium-dioxide/
7 https://www.safecosmetics.org/chemicals/mica/
35
Tip: Avoid using a metal spoon when working
with clays; instead, opt for a wooden spoon.
36
37
38
39
40
CHAPTER 4
41
Precaution:
Not all herbs are beneficial or suitable for human use, as
there are poisonous herbs that should be avoided
entirely. Additionally, certain herbs may act as dermal irritants
and should not be applied directly to the skin. When using
herbs, especially with children, the elderly, or individuals with
specific healthcare requirements, it is crucial to exercise
caution and conduct thorough research. Being responsible
and well-informed when selecting herbs for your soap
creations is essential.
Alkanet Root
This herb is widely used in soap making for its natural purple-blue
dye, derived from the roots. It's also known for its astringent
properties, which can help tone and tighten the skin.
Almond
Almond, typically in the form of sweet almond oil, is frequently used
in soap making for its moisturizing benefits. It's rich in vitamin E and
fatty acids, helping to nourish the skin and lock in moisture.
Aloe Vera
Aloe vera is well-known for its soothing and healing properties. It
can help with sunburn, irritation, and dryness, making it a great
42
addition to skin-soothing soaps. It's also hydrating without being
overly greasy.
Annatto Seed
Annatto seeds are often used for their rich orange color. They
contain high levels of carotenoids, which are antioxidants that can
help protect the skin from environmental stressors.
Borage
Also known as starflower, borage is rich in gamma-linolenic acid, a
type of fatty acid that's great for moisturizing and soothing the skin.
Borage can help improve skin's overall texture and tone.
Calendula
Calendula, also known as pot marigold, produces beautiful orange
or yellow flowers that are rich in flavonoids and carotenoids. These
compounds have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that
can help soothe and repair the skin. Calendula is especially
beneficial for dry or irritated skin and is often used in soaps aimed at
sensitive skin or baby skin.
Chamomile
Known for its calming and soothing properties, chamomile is
excellent for sensitive and irritated skin. It contains compounds like
chamazulene and alpha-bisabolol, which have anti-inflammatory and
skin-soothing properties. Chamomile's gentle, calming scent also
helps to soothe the nerves and promote relaxation.
Comfrey
Comfrey is known for its high content of allantoin, a compound that
supports skin cell regeneration. This makes comfrey excellent for
healing and soothing the skin. It's especially beneficial in soaps
aimed at dry, damaged, or aging skin.
43
Dill
Besides being a culinary herb, dill is also beneficial in soap making.
It has a refreshing and invigorating aroma. It also contains
antioxidants and provides a gentle exfoliating texture in soap.
Jasmine
Prized for its exotic and intoxicating fragrance, jasmine is often used
in soap for its scent. It also has calming properties and can help with
dry or irritated skin.
Lavender
One of the most popular herbs used in soap making, lavender is
prized for its calming and soothing fragrance. It is known for its
ability to relieve stress, promote sleep, and even repel insects. On
the skin, lavender has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties,
making it great for reducing redness and irritation.
Lemon Balm
Known for its calming properties, lemon balm is a good addition to
soaps designed to soothe and relax. It has a gentle lemon scent and
is also believed to have antiviral properties.
Mint
There are several types of mint (such as spearmint and peppermint),
and all are known for their refreshing and cooling effects on the skin.
Mint is also rich in antioxidants and has a clean, uplifting scent that
makes it a favorite in soap making.
Neem
Neem is known for its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties,
making it a good choice for soaps designed for acne-prone skin.
However, it has a very strong scent that not everyone enjoys, so it's
44
often used in combination with other, more pleasantly scented
ingredients.
Nettle
Nettle is packed with nutrients like vitamins A and C, iron,
potassium, calcium, and magnesium. It has been used traditionally
for its healing properties, especially in relieving skin irritations and
inflammations. Nettle can be used in soaps to help soothe
conditions like eczema and psoriasis.
Peppermint
Peppermint is loved for its refreshing, cooling effect on the skin. It
contains menthol, which can help invigorate the senses and wake
up the skin. Peppermint also has antimicrobial properties, making it
a good choice for combating skin blemishes.
Rose
Rose petals are often used in soap for their fragrance and skin-
soothing properties. They're also rich in antioxidants and can
provide a luxurious feel to soaps. Rose water, made from rose
petals, is also a hydrating ingredient for skin.
Rosemary
Rosemary is a fragrant herb with a refreshing, invigorating scent. It
contains rosmarinic acid, a potent antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory
compound. Rosemary also has antimicrobial properties, making it
beneficial for acne-prone skin. Its stimulating fragrance can help
clear the mind and reduce fatigue.
Sandalwood
Sandalwood is often used in soap for its warm, woody scent. It's
also thought to have anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties,
making it good for soothing and cleansing the skin.
45
Strawberry
Strawberry, often in the form of strawberry seed oil or dried
strawberry powder, can provide a natural source of alpha-hydroxy
acids (AHAs) and vitamin C, which can help exfoliate and brighten
the skin.
Turmeric
Turmeric is a powerful anti-inflammatory herb and can help soothe
skin irritations. It's also often used for its bright yellow color.
Yarrow
Yarrow is a herb known for its ability to heal wounds, hence its
traditional name 'soldier's woundwort'. It's anti-inflammatory,
tightening, and toning properties make it a good fit for aging skin or
skin suffering from irritations and breakouts.
Each of these herbs not only bring their unique benefits but
can also create a beautiful array of natural colors and scents,
making your soap making process even more creative and
enjoyable.
Remember to always research the herbs you plan to use
to ensure they are safe and suitable for your skin type.
46
Adding Herbs to you soap
One of the most common methods is to infuse the herbs into the
oils. This can be done in two ways: hot infusion or cold infusion
Hot infusion
This is the fast track. Your infusion will be read in few hours:
1. Choose Your Oils: select the base oils you want to infuse.
Common choices include olive oil, coconut oil, or sunflower oil.
2. Select Herbs or Additives: choose dried herbs or flowers based
on your desired scent or properties. Ensure they are clean and
free of moisture to prevent mold.
3. Measure Ingredients: measure the desired amount of base oil
and herbs. A general ratio is 1 ounce (28 grams) of herbs to 10
ounces (280 grams) of oil, but you can adjust based on personal
preference.
4. Combine Oil and Additives: place the herbs into the saucepan
or slow Cooker and cover them with the base oil.
5. Heat the mixture gently: aim for a low and consistent
temperature to avoid burning or scorching the mixture. Allow the
oil and herbs to infuse for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Check the
scent and colour periodically to determine the strength of the
infusion.
6. Cool the Infused Oil: allow the strained oil to cool to room
temperature.
7. Strain the Infused Oil: once infused, strain the oil using a
cheesecloth. Squeeze out as much oil as possible from the herbs.
8. Store the Infused Oil: transfer the infused oil to a dark glass
bottle or jar for storage or use it directly accordingly to the weight
of the recipe. Dark glass helps protect the oil from light, preserving
its properties.
9. Label and Date: Label the infused oil with the type of infusion,
date, and any relevant information. This ensures you can track its
freshness and use it appropriately.
47
Cold infusion
1. Choose Your Oils: olive oil is usually the best choice.
2. Select Herbs: choose dried herbs or flowers based on your
desired scent or properties. Ensure they are clean and free of
moisture.
3. Measure Ingredients: measure the desired amount of base oil
and herbs. The ratio is typically 1 ounce (28 grams) of herbs to 10
ounces (280 grams) of oil, but you can adjust based on personal
preference.
4. Combine Oil and Additives: place the herbs into jar and cover
them with the oil.
5. Mix and Seal: stir the mixture well to ensure the herbs are fully
coated with the oil. Seal tightly.
6. Set Aside for Infusion: place the sealed jar aside and allow the
oil and herbs to infuse for 4-6 weeks, shaking or stirring the
mixture occasionally.
7. Label and Date: label the infused oil with the type of infusion,
date, and any relevant information. This helps you track its
freshness and use it appropriately.
8. Strain the Infused Oil: after the infusion period, strain the oil
using cheesecloth or similar to remove solid particles. Squeeze
out as much oil as possible from the herbs.
Water Infusion
Here, herbs are steeped in boiling distilled water for a specified
period, much like making tea. The water is then strained and can
replace part or all the water in your soap recipe.
Infusion allows the beneficial properties of the herbs to meld
with the soap while eliminating the concern of the herbs potentially
turning brown or affecting the soap's texture. It is also fast and easy
compared to oil infusion.
48
1. Select Your Herbs: choose dried herbs, flowers, or botanicals
based on the properties you want in your soap. Ensure they are
clean and free of moisture.
2. Measure Ingredients: measure the desired amount of water and
herbs. The ratio is typically 1 ounce (28 grams) of herbs to 10
ounces (280 grams) of distilled water, but you can adjust based on
preference.
3. Boil the distilled water.
4. Place Herbs in Container: put the selected herbs into the heat-
resistant container.
5. Pour Boiling Water: pour the hot distilled water over the herbs,
ensuring they are fully submerged.
6. Steep the Herbs: allow the infused water to cool to room
temperature. This will extract their properties into the water.
7. Strain the infused water: strain through cheesecloth or similar to
remove the herbs. Squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Now
you have your herbal tea for the lye mixture.
8. Add the tea water according to the recipe: check if the weight
of the water is correct due to evaporation and add more if
necessary to reach the desired weight.
49
Direct Addition
Directly adding herbs to your soap batter is another method. The
herbs can be finely ground and added at trace, contributing texture,
color, and properties to the soap. Remember that some herbs can
change color in the soap due to its alkaline pH or exposure to light
and heat.
Another way is to sprinkle whole or crushed herbs onto the top
of soap just before it starts to harden, adding a decorative touch.
Essential Oils
Some soap makers prefer to use essential oils distilled from herbs to
impart the benefits and scents of those herbs into their soaps. These
can be added at light trace or trace, according to preference.
50
CHAPTER 5
1. Safety First: put on protective eyewear, gloves, and an apron. Always make
soap in a well-ventilated area.
2. Measure Lye: place an empty heat-resistant container on the scale and
reset the weight to zero. Carefully measure and pour the lye into the
container.
3. Measure distilled water: place an empty heat-resistant container on the
scale, reset the weight to zero, and measure the distilled water according to
the recipe.
51
4. Prepare the Lye Solution: in a well-ventilated area, slowly pour the lye into
the water while stirring until the lye is fully dissolved. The solution will heat
up quickly.
5. Set the mixture aside and let it cool until the temperature reaches between
100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37 - 43 C°). For about 30/40 minutes.
6. Weight the oils: place individual containers on the scale for each oil you are
using. Reset the weight to zero and carefully measure the appropriate
amount for each oil.
Note: for oils such as coconut oil, shea butter, or cocoa butter, gently heat
them until they melt. This will make the mixing process easier.
7. Mix the oils: combine all the oils together in a larger heat-resistant
container or stainless-steel pot.
8. Combine Lye Solution and Oils: once both the lye solution and the oils
have cooled to around 100 to 110 Fahrenheit (37 - 43. C°) and have no
more than a 10-degree difference, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.
9. Mix to trace: use a stick blender to blend the mixture in 3 to 5-second
bursts, alternating with hand stirring using a spatula, a spoon, or the same
stick blender. Continue this process until “trace” or “light trace” is reached.
10. Add extras at light trace: gently pour the spirulina and continue stirring
until it is fully incorporated, and the solution becomes homogeneous. Then
add the essential oil to the mixture and mix until well combined.
11. Pour the Soap: pour the soap batter into the molds. Cover the molds with
wax paper/cling wrap and place a towel or a blanket over it. Regularly check
the soap to prevent overheating.
12. Rest: allow the soap to rest and harden for 24-48 hours.
13. Cut and cure: check if the soap is hard enough to remove from the molds
(or single mold). If single mold, remove it and cut it into the desired shapes.
The soap bars will need to cure for 4-6 weeks. Turn them occasionally to
ensure they cure evenly.
52
53
Chamomile Soap
1. Safety First: Put on protective eyewear, gloves, and an apron. Always make
soap in a well-ventilated area.
2. Prepare the chamomile tea: measure the distilled water according to the
recipe and make the tea. If you lose some water during the heating process,
you can add distilled water to reach the correct amount of the recipe.
3. Measure Lye: place an empty heat-resistant container on the scale and
reset the weight to zero. Carefully measure and pour the lye into the
container.
4. Prepare the Lye Solution: in a well-ventilated area, slowly pour the lye into
the chamomile tea stirring until the lye is fully dissolved. The solution will
heat up quickly.
54
5. Set the mixture aside in a safe place. (eg. sink) and let it cool until the
temperature reaches between 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37 - 43 C°).
For about 30/40 minutes.
6. Weight the oils: place individual containers on the scale for each oil you are
using. Reset the weight to zero and carefully measure the appropriate
amount for each oil.
Note: for oils such as coconut oil, shea butter, or cocoa butter, gently heat
them until they melt. This will make the mixing process easier.
7. Mix the oils: combine all the oils together in a larger heat-resistant
container or stainless-steel pot.
8. Combine Lye Solution and Oils: once both the lye solution and the oils
have cooled to around 100 to 110 Fahrenheit (37 - 43. C°) and have no
more than a 10-degree difference, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.
9. Mix to trace: use a stick blender to blend the mixture in 3 to 5-second
bursts, alternating with hand stirring using a spatula, a spoon, or the same
stick blender. Continue this process until trace or light trace is reached.
10. Add extras: add the essential oil to the mixture and continue stirring gently
but thoroughly. At light trace it will be easier to mix and pour later. Mix
until well combined. If desired, you can add dried chamomile flowers as a
decorative touch.
11. Pour the Soap: pour the soap batter into the molds. Cover the molds with
wax paper/cling wrap and place a towel or a blanket over it. Regularly check
the soap to prevent overheating.
12. Rest: allow the soap to rest and harden for 24-48 hours.
13. Cut and cure: check if the soap is hard enough to remove from the molds
(or single mold). If single mold, remove it and cut it into the desired shapes.
The soap bars will need to cure for 4-6 weeks. Turn them occasionally to
ensure they cure evenly.
55
Oatmeal almond soap
Safety First: put on protective eyewear, gloves, and an apron. Always make
soap in a well-ventilated area.
1. Prepare the oatmeal by grinding it. Set it aside for later use.
2. Measure Lye: place an empty heat-resistant container on the scale and
reset the weight to zero. Carefully measure and pour the lye into the
container.
3. Measure distilled water: place an empty heat-resistant container on the
scale, reset the weight to zero, and measure the distilled water according to
the recipe.
56
4. Prepare the Lye Solution: in a well-ventilated area, slowly pour the lye into
the water while stirring until the lye is fully dissolved. The solution will heat
up quickly.
5. Set the mixture aside and let it cool until the temperature reaches between
100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37 - 43 C°). For about 30/40 minutes.
6. Weight the oils: place individual containers on the scale for each oil you are
using. Reset the weight to zero and carefully measure the appropriate
amount for each oil.
Note: for oils such as coconut oil, shea butter, or cocoa butter, gently heat
them until they melt. This will make the mixing process easier.
7. Mix the oils: combine all the oils together in a larger heat-resistant
container or stainless-steel pot.
8. Combine Lye Solution and Oils: once both the lye solution and the oils
have cooled to around 100 to 110 Fahrenheit (37 - 43. C°) and have no
more than a 10-degree difference, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.
9. Mix to trace: use a stick blender to blend the mixture in 3 to 5-second
bursts, alternating with hand stirring using a spatula, a spoon, or the same
stick blender. Continue this process until trace or light trace is reached.
10. Add extras at light trace: add the grounded oats, the essential oil, and the
desired color to the mixture and continue stirring gently but thoroughly. At
light trace it will be easier to mix and pour later. Mix until well combined.
11. Pour the Soap: pour the soap batter into the molds. Cover the molds with
wax paper/cling wrap and place a towel or a blanket over it. Regularly check
the soap to prevent overheating.
12. Rest: allow the soap to rest and harden for 24-48 hours.
13. Cut and cure: check if the soap is hard enough to remove from the molds
(or single mold). If single mold, remove it and cut it into the desired shapes.
The soap bars will need to cure for 4-6 weeks. Turn them occasionally to
ensure they cure evenly.
57
58
Ginger and Turmeric Soap
1. Safety First: put on protective eyewear, gloves, and an apron. Always make
soap in a well-ventilated area.
2. Measure Lye: place an empty heat-resistant container on the scale and
reset the weight to zero. Carefully measure and pour the lye into the
container.
3. Measure distilled water: place an empty heat-resistant container on the
scale, reset the weight to zero, and measure the distilled water according to
the recipe.
4. Prepare the Lye Solution: in a well-ventilated area, slowly pour the lye into
the water while stirring until the lye is fully dissolved. The solution will heat
up quickly.
59
5. Set the mixture aside and let it cool until the temperature reaches between
100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37 - 43 C°). For about 30/40 minutes.
6. Weight the oils: place individual containers on the scale for each oil you are
using. Reset the weight to zero and carefully measure the appropriate
amount for each oil.
Note: for oils such as coconut oil, shea butter, or cocoa butter, gently heat
them until they melt. This will make the mixing process easier.
7. Mix the oils: combine all the oils together in a larger heat-resistant
container or stainless-steel pot.
8. Combine Lye Solution and Oils: once both the lye solution and the oils
have cooled to around 100 to 110 Fahrenheit (37 - 43. C°) and have no
more than a 10-degree difference, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.
9. Mix to trace: use a stick blender to blend the mixture in 3 to 5-second
bursts, alternating with hand stirring using a spatula, a spoon, or the same
stick blender. Continue this process until trace or light trace is reached.
10. Add extras: add the turmeric powdered and the ginger essential oil to the
mixture. and continue stirring gently but thoroughly. At light trace it will be
easier to mix and pour later. Mix until well combined.
11. Pour the Soap: pour the soap batter into the molds. Cover the molds with
wax paper/cling wrap and place a towel or a blanket over it. Regularly check
the soap to prevent overheating.
12. Rest: allow the soap to rest and harden for 24-48 hours.
13. Cut and cure: check if the soap is hard enough to remove from the molds
(or single mold). If single mold, remove it and cut it into the desired shapes.
The soap bars will need to cure for 4-6 weeks. Turn them occasionally to
ensure they cure evenly.
60
61
Sea Salt Bars
1. Safety First: put on protective eyewear, gloves, and an apron. Always make
soap in a well-ventilated area.
2. Measure Lye: place an empty heat-resistant container on the scale and
reset the weight to zero. Carefully measure and pour the lye into the
container.
3. Measure distilled water: place an empty heat-resistant container on the
scale, reset the weight to zero, and measure the distilled water according to
the recipe.
4. Prepare the Lye Solution: in a well-ventilated area, slowly pour the lye into
the water while stirring until the lye is fully dissolved. The solution will heat
up quickly.
5. Set the mixture aside and let it cool until the temperature reaches between
100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37 - 43 C°). For about 30/40 minutes.
6. Weight the oils: place individual containers on the scale for each oil you are
using. Reset the weight to zero and carefully measure the appropriate
amount for each oil.
62
Note: for oils such as coconut oil, shea butter, or cocoa butter, gently heat
them until they melt. This will make the mixing process easier.
7. Mix the oils: combine all the oils together in a larger heat-resistant
container or stainless-steel pot.
8. Combine Lye Solution and Oils: once both the lye solution and the oils
have cooled to around 100 to 110 Fahrenheit (37 - 43. C°) and have no
more than a 10-degree difference, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.
9. Mix to trace: use a stick blender to blend the mixture in 3 to 5-second
bursts, alternating with hand stirring using a spatula, a spoon, or the same
stick blender. Continue this process until light trace is reached.
10. Add extras at light trace: gently pour the clay and continue stirring until it is
fully incorporated, and the solution becomes homogeneous. Mix until well
combined.
11. Add the salt: then, gently mix in the sea salt by hand. You will notice that
the batter becomes considerably thicker at this stage. Act swiftly and pour
the soap batter into individual molds.
12. Pour the Soap: pour the soap batter into the molds. Cover the molds with
wax paper/cling wrap and place a towel or a blanket over it. Regularly check
the soap and if you notice any cracks forming, relocate it to a cooler spot.
Note: due to the hardness of the soap mixture, it is better to use
individual molds.
13. Rest: allow the soap to rest and harden. Because of the salt, after
approximately 2 to 3 hours, the soap will likely be firm enough to remove
from the molds. However, remember to wear gloves when handling it during
the initial 24 hours.
14. Cut and cure: check if the soap is hard enough to remove from the molds
(or single mold). If single mold, remove it and cut it into the desired shapes.
The soap bars will need to cure for 4-6 weeks. Turn them occasionally to
ensure they cure evenly.
63
This soap is predominantly made with coconut oil and is
exceptionally hard due to the added salt. It is best to use individual
molds for this reason and avoid cracks.
Salt added at trace can be up to an equal weight as the oils used.
64
Coffee scrub bars
1. Safety First: put on protective eyewear, gloves, and an apron. Always make
soap in a well-ventilated area.
2. Prepare strong coffee: measure the coffee made with distilled water for the
exact amount needed for the recipe.
3. Measure Lye: place an empty heat-resistant container on the scale and
reset the weight to zero. Carefully measure and pour the lye into the
container.
4. Prepare the Lye Solution: in a well-ventilated area, slowly pour the lye into
the cooled-down coffee stirring until the lye is fully dissolved. The solution
will heat up quickly. You may notice a temporary unpleasant scent, but rest
assured that it will dissipate over time.
5. Set the mixture aside in a safe place. (e.g. sink) and let it cool until the
temperature reaches between 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37 - 43 C°).
For about 30/40 minutes.
65
6. Weight the oils: place individual containers on the scale for each oil you are
using. Reset the weight to zero and carefully measure the appropriate
amount for each oil.
Note: for oils such as coconut oil, shea butter, or cocoa butter, gently heat
them until they melt. This will make the mixing process easier.
7. Mix the oils: combine all the oils together in a larger heat-resistant
container or stainless-steel pot.
8. Combine Lye Solution and Oils: once both the lye solution and the oils
have cooled to around 100 to 110 Fahrenheit (37 - 43. C°) and have no
more than a 10-degree difference, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.
9. Mix to trace: Use a stick blender to blend the mixture in 3 to 5-second
bursts, alternating with hand stirring using a spatula, a spoon, or the same
stick blender. Continue this process until trace or light trace is reached.
10. Add extras: add the coffee ground to the mixture and continue stirring
gently but thoroughly. At light trace it will be easier to mix and pour
later. Mix until well combined.
11. Pour the Soap: pour the soap batter into the molds. Cover the molds with
wax paper/cling wrap and place a towel or a blanket over it. Regularly check
the soap to prevent overheating.
12. Rest: allow the soap to rest and harden for 24-48 hours.
13. Cut and cure: check if the soap is hard enough to remove from the molds
(or single mold). If single mold, remove it and cut it into the desired shapes.
The soap bars will need to cure for 4-6 weeks. Turn them occasionally to
ensure they cure evenly.
66
67
Lavender - Aloe vera soap
1. Safety First: put on protective eyewear, gloves, and an apron. Always make
soap in a well-ventilated area.
2. Measure Lye: place an empty heat-resistant container on the scale and
reset the weight to zero. Carefully measure and pour the lye into the
container.
3. Measure distilled water: place an empty heat-resistant container on the
scale, reset the weight to zero, and measure the distilled water according to
the recipe.
4. Add the aloe liquid with the distilled water and place the mixture in the
refrigerator or freezer, taking care not to let it freeze to solid
68
5. Prepare the Lye Solution: in a well-ventilated area, slowly pour the lye into
the water while stirring until the lye is fully dissolved. The solution will heat
up quickly.
6. Set the mixture aside and let it cool until the temperature reaches between
100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37 - 43 C°). For about 30/40 minutes.
7. Weight the oils: place individual containers on the scale for each oil you are
using. Reset the weight to zero and carefully measure the appropriate
amount for each oil.
Note: for oils such as coconut oil, shea butter, or cocoa butter, gently heat
them until they melt. This will make the mixing process easier.
8. Mix the oils: combine all the oils together in a larger heat-resistant
container or stainless-steel pot.
9. Combine Lye Solution and Oils: once both the lye solution and the oils
have cooled to around 100 to 110 Fahrenheit (37 - 43. C°) and have no
more than a 10-degree difference, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.
10. Mix to trace: use a stick blender to blend the mixture in 3 to 5-second
bursts, alternating with hand stirring using a spatula, a spoon, or the same
stick blender. Continue this process until trace or light trace is reached.
11. Add extras: add lavender essential oil and dried lavender flowers (optional)
to the mixture and continue stirring gently but thoroughly. At light trace it
will be easier to mix and pour later. Mix until well combined.
12. Pour the Soap: pour the soap batter into the molds. Cover the molds with
wax paper/cling wrap and place a towel or a blanket over it. Regularly check
the soap to prevent overheating.
13. Rest: allow the soap to rest and harden for 24-48 hours.
14. Cut and cure: check if the soap is hard enough to remove from the molds
(or single mold). If single mold, remove it and cut it into the desired shapes.
The soap bars will need to cure for 4-6 weeks. Turn them occasionally to
ensure they cure evenly.
69
Note: you have the option to either purchase aloe liquid or make it at home by
following these steps:
Soak the aloe leaf in water for 30 minutes.
Rinse the leaf and pat it dry with kitchen paper.
Use a potato peeler to trim off the edges of the leaf.
Extract the gel by running a spoon along the inside of the leaf, ensuring you
remove all the gel.
Process the gel with a food processor or a blender until it becomes smooth
and reaches a fluffy consistency, like egg whites.
If you plan to make soap within a few days, store the gel in the refrigerator.
Alternatively, if you want to store it for a longer period, freeze it in ice trays.
70
Pine tar
71
1. Safety First: put on protective eyewear, gloves, and an apron. Always make
soap in a well-ventilated area.
2. Measure Lye: place an empty heat-resistant container on the scale and
reset the weight to zero. Carefully measure and pour the lye into the
container.
3. Measure distilled water: place an empty heat-resistant container on the
scale, reset the weight to zero, and measure the distilled water according to
the recipe.
4. Prepare the Lye Solution: in a well-ventilated area, slowly pour the lye into
the water while stirring until the lye is fully dissolved. The solution will heat
up quickly.
5. Set the mixture aside and let it cool until the temperature reaches between
100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37 - 43 C°). For about 30/40 minutes.
Weight the oils: place individual containers on the scale for each oil you are
using. Reset the weight to zero and carefully measure the appropriate
amount for each oil.
Note: for oils such as coconut oil, shea butter, or cocoa butter, gently heat
them until they melt. This will make the mixing process easier.
6. Mix the oils: combine all the oils together in a larger heat-resistant
container or stainless-steel pot.
7. Mix the pine tar with the oils
8. Combine Lye Solution and Oils: once both the lye solution and the oils
have cooled to around 100 to 110 Fahrenheit (37 - 43. C°) and have no
more than a 10-degree difference, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.
9. Mix to trace: Hand stir using a spatula, a spoon, or the same stick blender.
Continue this process until trace or light trace is reached.
Note: Pine tar soap tends to thicken very quickly, so you may achieve trace
with just a few minutes of hand stirring.
10. Pour the Soap: pour the soap batter into the molds. Cover the molds with
wax paper/cling wrap and place a towel or a blanket over it. Regularly check
the soap to prevent overheating.
11. Rest: allow the soap to rest and harden for 24-48 hours.
72
12. Cut and cure: check if the soap is hard enough to remove from the molds
(or single mold). If single mold, remove it and cut it into the desired shapes.
The soap bars will need to cure for 4-6 weeks. Turn them occasionally to
ensure they cure evenly.
73
Activated charcoal soap
Note: the recommended maximum usage of tea tree oil in the recipe is
1.74%, according to IFRA standards. It is important not to exceed this
indicated percentage.
1. Safety First: put on protective eyewear, gloves, and an apron. Always make
soap in a well-ventilated area.
2. Measure Lye: place an empty heat-resistant container on the scale and
reset the weight to zero. Carefully measure and pour the lye into the
container.
3. Measure distilled water: place an empty heat-resistant container on the
scale, reset the weight to zero, and measure the distilled water according to
the recipe.
74
4. Prepare the Lye Solution: in a well-ventilated area, slowly pour the lye into
the water while stirring until the lye is fully dissolved. The solution will heat
up quickly.
5. Set the mixture aside and let it cool until the temperature reaches between
100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37 - 43 C°). For about 30/40 minutes.
6. Weight the oils: place individual containers on the scale for each oil you are
using. Reset the weight to zero and carefully measure the appropriate
amount for each oil.
7. Note: for oils such as coconut oil, shea butter, or cocoa butter, gently heat
them until they melt. This will make the mixing process easier.
8. Mix the oils: combine all the oils together in a larger heat-resistant
container or stainless-steel pot.
9. Combine Lye Solution and Oils: once both the lye solution and the oils
have cooled to around 100 to 110 Fahrenheit (37 - 43. C°) and have no
more than a 10-degree difference, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils.
10. Mix to trace: use a stick blender to blend the mixture in 3 to 5-second
bursts, alternating with hand stirring using a spatula, a spoon, or the same
stick blender. Continue this process until trace or light trace is reached.
11. Add extras: add the charcoal powder and then the tea tree oil to the mixture
and continue stirring gently but thoroughly. At light trace it will be easier to
mix and pour later. Mix until well combined.
12. Pour the Soap: pour the soap batter into the molds. Cover the molds with
wax paper/cling wrap and place a towel or a blanket over it. Regularly check
the soap to prevent overheating.
13. Rest: allow the soap to rest and harden for 24-48 hours.
14. Cut and cure: check if the soap is hard enough to remove from the molds
(or single mold). If single mold, remove it and cut it into the desired shapes.
The soap bars will need to cure for 4-6 weeks. Turn them occasionally to
ensure they cure evenly.
75
CONCLUSION
As we conclude this chapter on soap-making, we hope you have
enjoyed the incredible journey through colors, scents, and herbs.
We trust that the information provided has been enlightening, and
you are filled with excitement to embark on your next soap-crafting
adventure.
In the upcoming book, we will take a deeper dive into the world
of soap-making, providing guidance to refine your skills and explore
other wonderful techniques. We will focus on the “Hot Process”
and "Melt and Pour Soap" and "Rebatching: A Second Chance
at Perfection."
We will share expert tips on how to decorate your soaps, with
techniques such as swirling, layering, and more.
These techniques will allow you to create eye-catching,
beautiful products that truly reflect your creative essence.
Finally, we'll delve into the aspects of "Presentation & Design"
to ensure your soaps not only feel wonderful but look amazing too,
whether they are for personal use, gifts, or even for a soap-making
business.
Prepare to take your soap making to new heights, as we
journey together towards perfecting the art of soap-crafting.
76