TEXTILE COLORATION-I

(Introduction)

Emran Hossain
Assistant Professor, DoWPE, BUTEX
Course Outline (DYEING)
 Introduction
 Theory of dyeing
 Dyeing Machinery
 Dyes
 Reactive Dye
 Direct Dye
 Acid Dye
 Basic Dye
 Vat Dye
Dyeing faults and remedies
 Reference Book
1. Basic Principle of Textile Coloration
Author: Broadbent, UK
2. The Chemistry of Dyes and Principle of Dyeing
Author: E R Trotman
3. Textile Dyeing and Coloration
Author: J R Aspland, USA
4. The Chemistry of Dyes and Principle of Dyeing
Author: V A Shenai, India
 Introduction
What is Dyeing?
- The process of coloring textile material is called dyeing.
- The process of coloring textile material in a soluble medium, maintaining a
standard procedure which results in desired durability and stability.
- Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as
fibers, yarns, and fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color
fastness.
What is a dye bath?
- Where dyeing is performed.

What does a dye bath contain?

- A dye bath mainly contains
 Medium
 Colorants
 Chemicals
 Auxiliaries
Medium
-Mainly Fluid
 Liquid ( Water, solvents etc)
 Foam
 Super critical fluid ( SC CO₂)
Colorants
-Which mainly produce color.
Such as-
 Dyes
 Pigments
 Optical brightening agent
Chemicals
-Which are mandatory to complete the dyeing.
Such as- salt, acid, base etc.
Auxiliaries
- Which are not mandatory to complete the dyeing. But they assist in a
smooth dyeing and enhance the quality of dyed product.
Such as- Sequestering agent, Wetting agent, Levelling agent, Anti-creasing
agent, Anti-foaming agent etc.
 Sequestering agent: Reduces hardness of the water.
 Wetting agent: Reduces surface tension of the water.
 Levelling agent: Ensure a uniform dyeing.
 Anti-creasing agent: Removes crease.
 Anti-foaming agent: Removes foam.
 Theory of Dyeing
Important Terms
 Shade %
 Color Strike
 Substantivity
 Affinity
 Adsorption
 Sorption
 Desorption
 Migration
 Exhaustion
 Fixation
Shade %
Shade is the depth of color. It is expressed by percentage (%). It is mainly the
weight of the colorants which is expressed as the percentage of the weight of
the material to be colored.
Internationally There are 3 types of shade-
1. Light shade/ Pale shade (up to 1% owf)
2. Medium shade ( up to 2% owf)
3. Dark/ Deep shade ( more than 2% owf)
Color Strike
After giving the material to the dye bath within a very short time (less than 2
minutes) a huge amount of dye particles (approximately 50%) is absorbed by
the material. This phenomenon is called color strike.
The initial take up of dye in a dye bath is called color strike.
Substantivity
Natural attraction between dye molecule and fibre. Dye molecules transfer
from dye bath to textile material without dyeing condition.

Affinity
Preferential attraction of the dye molecule for the fibre. Attraction between
fibre and dye molecule with dyeing condition. Dye molecules transfer from
dye bath to textile material in the presence of some factors such as heat,
temperature, pressure etc.
Adsorption
When the dye particles just touch the surface of the fibre,
this is called adsorption.
Sorption
When the dye particles penetrate into the fibre, this is
called sorption.
Desorption
When the dye particles come out from inside the fibre to
the outside due to unfavorable situation, this is called
desorption.
Migration
The spreading of dye particles inside the fibre is migration.
Exhaustion(E%)
The total amount of dye absorbed by the fibre in a dyeing process is called
exhaustion. It is expressed as percentage(%).
𝐶₀−𝐶
E%= X 100%
𝐶₀
Where,
C₀= Initial concentration of the dye bath
C= Concentration of the dye bath after the end of dyeing
Fixation(F%)
The amount of dye finally attached with the fibres in a dyeing process is known
as fixation. It is also expressed as percentage.
F%= E%-( Desorption loss+ washing loss+ soaping loss+ Other losses)
Important point that should be considered in a dyeing
process
1. Textile Raw Materials (TRM)
Form: Fiber, Yarn, Fabric, Garments etc.
Types: Natural (Cotton, Jute, Silk, Wool etc.)
Man Made ( Nylon, Polyester, Acetate etc.)
2. Colorants (Dyes, Pigments, OBA etc.)
3. Chemicals
4. Machineries
5. Utilities (Water, Gas, Electricity, Manpower etc.)
6. Controlling Parameters
Controlling Parameters
1. M:L
Material to liquor ratio. Generally more the water, more the quality. In our
country normally 1:6 to 1:7 M:L ratio is maintained.
2. Temperature
Temperature range is 30⁰- 220⁰ C depending on different dyes and fibers.
3. pH
pH range is 4-12 depending on different dyes.
4. Time
Time ranges 2-90 minutes depending on dyes, fibers, shade% etc.
Different Machineries for Dyeing
According to form of material to be dyed
1. Fiber dyeing machines
2. Yarn dyeing machines
3. Fabric dyeing machines
4. Garments dyeing machines
5. Accessories dyeing machines
According to process
1. Discontinuous ( Jet, Jigger, Winch etc.)
2. Semi continuous ( Pad batch, Pad jig etc.)
3. Continuous ( Pad dry, pad steam, Pad thermosol etc.)
 Structure of dyes
Dyestuffs are colored because of the presence of some functional groups having
conjugation (double bond & triple bond). In the dye structure there are mainly 2
types of groups are present. They are-
1. Chromophore
2. Auxochrome
Chromophore
The term chromophore was previously used to denote a functional group of
some other structural feature of which gives a color to compound. But these days
the term chromophore is used in a much broader sense which may be defined as
“any group which exhibit absorption of electromagnetic radiation in a visible or
ultra-visible region.”
Some of the important chromophores are: azo, anthraquinone, nitro, ethylene,
acetylene, carbonyls, nitrile groups etc.
Auxochrome
It is a group which itself does not act as a chromophore but when
attached to a chromophore, it shifts the adsorption towards
longer wavelength along with an increase in the intensity of
absorption.
Some commonly known auxochromic groups are: -OH, -NH₂, -OR,
-NHR and –NR₂.
 Classification of dyes
BY STRUCTURE

1.Nitro & Nitroso dyes

2.Azo dyes

3.Diphenylmethane dyes

4.Triphenylmethane dyes
5.Xanthene dyes

6.Phthaeleins dyes

7.Indigo and Thio-indigo dyes

8.Anthraquinone dyes
BY APPLICATION
 Direct dyes
 Reactive dyes
 Vat dyes
 Acid dyes
 Basic dyes
 Sulphur dyes
 Mordant dyes
 Azoic dyes
 Disperse dyes etc.
Difference between Dyes & Pigments
Dyes Pigments
1. Most of the dyes are organic compounds, 1. Most of the pigments are inorganic mineral
some are metallic. matters.
2. Dyes are made by longer chemical reaction. So 2. Pigments are derived from mineral compounds.
they are costly. So they are cheap.
3. Most of the dyes are water soluble. 3. Pigments are water insoluble.
4. Dyes contain both chromophore and 4. Pigments contain only chromophore.
auxochrome.
5. Different dyes have affinity to different fibres. 5. Pigments have no affinity to any fibre.
6. Dyes are absorbed by the fibre, they diffuse in 6. Pigments remain on the surface of the fibre,
the fibre. they diffuse on the fibre.
7. No binder is required when coloration is done 7. Binders are required when coloration is done
with dyes. with pigments.
8. Generally after treatment is needed when 8. After treatment is not mandatory in case of
dyeing with dyes. pigments.
9. Dyes are generally transparent. 9. Pigments may be either transparent or opaque.
Classification of pigments
1. Inorganic
a. Colored
(i) Natural
(ii) Synthetic
b. White
(i) Opaque
(ii) Non-opaque
2. Organic
a. Azo pigments
b. Non-azo pigments
c. Phthalocyanide pigments
d. Quinacridone pigments
e. Isoindolinone pigments